If your able, a wood chipper would make short work of that brush pile and you can spread the chips onto the area you want to grow. Smaller chips are better obviously but tilling in wood chips and leaves are great for the soil.
So well said, and presented. I’ve been doing this at intervals, on the same (family) property for forty years. Also, the initial selection process you share is ideal for both the most immediate, and best long term success. Get right with the sun, then the property, then the trees = ideal. Then, you can work the same property with whatever, forever. Keep what works, change what dose not. Look at all that sun over your shoulder 🌞
Great video Ken, we have 13 wooded acres in South West MI. Sunlight is King. We're still cutting down trees..lol. Winter Rye works great on small plots with us too. It can handle the high grazing pressure and regrow. Enjoy your small parcel videos!
Wow! You are so spot on! Glad i found your site. Being from northeast Minn. N.W. wisc. It has a very different set of circumstances than the food plots in the south or old abandoned farm fields.
I've tried clover on trails we use to access the back of the property outside of hunting season and in my experiece it's very difficult to get established. To this day I go with winter rye food plots in NW WI.
Great. I have a spot in the woods i was wanting to plant a ¼ acre plot of clover and its literally covered with ferns and may apples 🤦🏻♂️. Im not trying to spend a ton of on lime and conditioners.
@@brandonyoung7760 yeah, getting your soil 100% correct gives whatever you're planting that 100% potential. Something is better than nothing if you can't do it all in one year.
I agree. At least if nothing else, by having that soil sample. you will have a good solid direction to go by. Remember, it may take years to get it the way you want. But no worries. Dear are curious animals. They'll come around, especially if it food they like!
Good question! In the northern hemisphere at noon, the sun is always slightly south of directly overhead. That angle to the south increases as we head into winter. Since the sun is always traveling in an arc from east to west by a southern route, we need to remove the trees to the south in about a 45° angle so we maximize the amount of sun hitting the plots.
Simply bending or snapping a plant stem util it breaks, there are actually ag attachments that simply roll over weeds and grasses to do just this in a larger scale.
The deer will eat young rye grain. So if I use it to fix a failed plot I'm planting it right before season. You can also layer it where you throw it down every 3 weeks or so.
Whe. People talk about eating rye grains were not nessessarily talking about the actual grain. But the young grass. Same with oats. They will destroy oat and winter rye grass, winter wheat etc. I'm sure they do but I've never actually seen deer eat the actual grain. You should be terminating that crop at that point anyways when the grains are still soft. You can easily crimp and broadcast back into that crimped previous crop
RyeGRAIN not Ryegrass for deer. Ryegrass will grow anywhere, anytime but it's not nearly as palatable or nutritious as Ryegrain. There's a big difference. Hey if you don't believe me, just go watch a video or 2 from the Biologic crew. A lot of bad info out there, but I know how much work, time, and money goes into even a small kill plot, so do your research and plant the right stuff
