@@Midwest283 best of luck. I’m still learning 4 yrs later and trying new things. Getting the rain I need and deer with heavy deer browse are my biggest challenges.
Came up great but there was a lot of stuff there that I personally thought was a waste, next year go bush hog as low as absolute possible go put out all the seeds you want to grow. Keep a check on the weather the day before or minutes before it rains go put out your fertilizer. And let her rip. Dead grass is pure fertilizer in itself. You will save tons of money and time and get the same results
@@JaredsShop Ivan found that as long as the seed is making soil contact and is covered by thatch or cover crop, it works extremely well. Without those you would need to work the soil some to cover the seed.
Yea that's my concern as well. I'm doing my food plots with a tractor using plow, disc to avoid spraying. Everything comes up pretty good, and i maintain my clover by just mowing it tall. I would rather use my 4wheeler and do the no till, cheaper equipment. My friend who used to spray his food plots had thyroid cancer when he hit 30, fairly young, scared me into stop spraying. Arguably that could have been from anywhere but just playing it safe. I'm wondering if there's a way to do no till without spraying.
He said he had no equipment so the no till was not because he was keeping soil healthy it was because he didn’t have tractor to get equipment to break the ground
He was using glyphosate to spray. Once it touches soil it is rendered useless and will no longer cause any harm to plants. Other weed killers such as 2-4d remain in the soil up to 4 weeks after spraying. Disking the soil constantly leads to more soil erosion/ loss of nutrients. Mow first and spray right after is the most effective way to kill all weeds and conserve nutrients that are in the soil. I plant buckwheat as a summer cover crop to prevent weeds from growing as much as possible. Spread seed into standing buckwheat then crimp it over. Spray with glyphosate to kill buckwheat and prevent weeds from competing with whatever you planted. Fertilize and lime as necessary. Soil tests are a must. You need proper soil ph for the plants to soak up all the nutrients they can get.
@@tpuuupwhen you plow you stir up more weed seeds The best way to do it is spray with glyphosate to kill everything although glyphosate is not my favorite and I don't like using it that often you got to get a kill broadcast right into it after you sprayed it and then leave it. If it is too tall you might have to mow it spray then broadcast seed right into it Been doing plots this way for the last 20 years planting food plots for almost 40 Also You're not trying to do an agricultural venture you're putting in a food plot a few extra weeds and native stuff isn't going to hurt anything
The one part of your plot turned out great! The one thing I will recommend is to seed right after you spray. I like the field to be about a foot tall to 3 foot tall, spray, seed and roll it. That will help protect the seed so much better than killing and letting it die off before planting. When the video started I didnt want you to cut it, but yeah, it needed it. That may have choked out a lot of seed. If you catch a dry year like im having now, you will appreciate that longer seed protection. Hope you had a good 21 season!
I have problems with clover coming up from no till. I have a ground hogg maxx atv disc i use to scratch the surface. I get great clover germination now. Great video, thanks!!
Is Deer gro plot start really a lime alternative? My USDA office says no. Deer GRO is calcium chloride, lime is calcium carbonate. True liquid lime, is made of calcium carbonate correct? Why are youtubers promoting a product that is not really benefiting the soil? Can you do a video explaining the difference between calcium chloride and calcium carbonate(lime). Ive heard calcium chloride is used on highways as a brine since it don't freeze, as well as in tires.. I'd like to use liquid lime, but feel I've been tricked by false marketing and people getting paid lots of $$ to promote a product that really is not beneficial to my soil and food plots.
I racked all the leaves and planted 2 bags of throw and grow about month ago and nothing came up It rained everyday for a week after I planted it I don't know why nothing came up at all?
I have good luck with crimson clover and a tillage/forage radish, followed by cereal rye or winter wheat 2-3 weeks after. Seeds work great with a no till broadcast method down here in southern middle Tennessee. I get my seed from the local county coop.
Hey man, awesome job. One thing that made me happier than anything was the fact that i just bought a tractor today with a hog instead of going the cheaper(and probably smarter) route of the swisher like i was thinking about. I have 45 aces, 9 of which need cut 2-3x a year. It would have taken me ages to do 9 acers if that plot took 5 hours lol
I use no till. I use a blue tarp to kill weeds and seeds. A blue tarp will burn a hole in a lawn in one sunny day. I recommend leaving tarp for 2 weeks. And then you can remove the blue tarp and plant that area.
I have some 4' x4' lids I got from work and they work good for solar termination also. I done a few spots like that, I just got every few weeks and move them over 4 ft and eventually it sets a lot of the junk back
Did the deer hit the brassica hard? What state are you in? Here In east Tennessee deer will not touch them. But try winter peas. Deer will hit them hard..
Good question, here in WV i used to do Brassicas and never got a hit. I'm trying it again in 3 of my food plots. What works best for me is clover, oats, and rye.
