Old trackball Mouse encoders could be a cheap and very durable Alternative. I think The challege often comes from the associated electronics. And with Arduino its just another digital input to process. i guess
Thank you much for this video. I am done with this setup but at last motor is not working. I did all basic testing for motor and driver as per your tutorial and tests are successful. Could you please suggest?
1. Check if feedback is working inside game. 2. Also check, if digital pins used for motor control are working(First convert back to normal Arduino). - Check if LED blink works on pin8. - Check if LED fading works on pin9 and pin10.
There is version of the encoder component that doesn't have detents but rotates smoothly. Unfortunately, step count isn't high. You can also make it from the standard detented one i think by taking it apart and removing the click spring thing. Another item of use is a $4 optical encoder with 100 slots, lasered steel. As opposed to industrial type it is open, and you have to make your own enclosure to shield it from light, and also come up with shaft mounting and the like. Unfortunately i think you want about 400 steps per revolution or more. The 600 step encoder was a good choice. So whether you use the 20/24 step mechanical encoder or 100 step optical encoder, you will need to gear them down. The mechanical encoder needs to be geared down a lot. The cheap optical encoder will need a modest amount of gearing.
@@techathome Logitech DFGT has 768 ppr (geared 60-slot encoder). Logitech G-series wheels have 490 ppr (30-slot encoder). Furthermore the encoder on G-series is coupled directly to a motor as opposed to the steering wheel shaft, which gives the wheel a characteristic and somewhat undesirable backlash or deadzone near the steering centre. I think in a belt driven wheel with correct belt preload, you're not going to feel that backlash at all.
Bro One small request can you make a small 2 to 5 Min video especially for detailed wiring connections for aurdino board to the rotary encoder.?? It's little bit tricky for me.!! i hope some viewers also have problem on it those also get help from it.!!
I don't have idea on sensor you have mentioned But the requirement for this SW is digital inputs. In encoder there are two phase pins A and B which are connected to digital pins of Arduino. There is 90 degree phase shift between these two phases.
would recommend if theres no lag and a (mine doesnt have) i would recommend using a small pulley and attaching that pulley into the 20 ppr encoder and attach another pulley for bigger like 5:1 or 3:1 making it 80 ppr or more
80 is still very little. You want 400 step or more. 5:1 is a good ratio for cheap optical slot encoder (open type, no shaft, no enclosure) with 100ppr that you can buy for around $4.
@@techathome what if we use smaller gear in potentiometer and big gear in drive shaft that will increase the amount of rotation plsss try it i am planning on making this
im doing a DIY and already have an 600p/r encoder like yours, would be better, accurate and will it work if i do use a 2k+ encoder? because if 2:1 with belt i generate 1200 not that much accurate and if i do use a 2000, 2500, 3000 would that be way better, dont?
I have problem with the software, after i centered the wheel to 0degree, and i turn it once or twice again at any direction , i can see that it say 0deg and the wheel is not centered in real life , force feedback is not applied yet, just testing , my setting for encoder in emc is 2400cpr and 2pwn+1dir.
Yes, At least in EMC utility Lite we have to manually set the centre before starting the games. Motor not involved in centering the wheel like Logitech. I don't have information whether paid version(EMC utility pro) has that option or not, see if you get something in EMC facebook page.
Mine is 600 PPR encoder. In EMC, we have to add CPR value(Ppr *4) So the configured value is 2400. Refer this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-crdDhvhBG0M.htmlsi=R5z-DBJuYA6EuDih
Hello, I have the same motor and controller for my diy ffb wheel, my motor is stronger/faster in one direction, is that normal? Do you think my motor is faulty?
No motor will not be faulty. If you are seeing this while playing game, may be feedback from the game is that way. Also you can check your motor and driver referring to this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H2YJRaaXFIM.htmlsi=vmyQyzH5wSb6-Q0r
This FFB wheel tutorial is different from Arduino Uno based wheel. Both use different software and arduino boards. For Arduino Uno, only potentiometer works.
bro is there any code to upload at arduino because i did every single step as u said but when i try to rotate the encoder it shows 0 degree please help me
i have a same setup this but i have 1000rpm encoder i install everyting but my motor is not working i tested motor i give only volt motor and its working every part is brand new i dont understand my motor its not working help me please
@@techathome it works but some time it not working and it only turning one side only. I just made circuit only for testing and model soon. The driver become hot also.
You can reduce costs - 1. No need of pulleys and belt for encoder. You can directly connect at the end of steering shaft. 2. Using cycle chain and sprocket instead of timing belt and pulleys for motor. 3. Use 100W or 150W motor, but mine is 250W which I already had. 4. Some old steering wheel can be used, Here I bought new wheel.
