Ford 3v Engines Broken Spark Plug Removal: What To Do When The Lisle Tool FAILS 

I had a mushroomed electrode and your drilling out method saved me big buck. Thanks for sharing your tips with everyone. I didn't have a camera to look into cylinder chamber but I went ahead and blew it out. I also turned on the car without the spark plug to remove any possible debries in chamber. My truck was sitting for 6 months until I saw your video. Many thanks.

Well I just started the my last plug on '05 Expedition. It broke to make a total of 5 that did. Unfortunately that is No. 4 rear on passenger side, the one you can't see and must have mushroomed the electrode because I can't get the extractor to get any grip started. Now I have to get a right angle drill adapter and try to squeeze it in there where there was barely room for the extractor. I hope there is a special hell for whoever is responsible for the plugs and cam phasers for these engines. At least this video will get me on the right track to finally finish this.

Great review. Lesson learned: don't buy a used lisle tool or loaner tool. They are worn out and won't work well. Save yourself the headache and buy a new lisle tool. With your other helpful videos, I was able to extract 7 broken plugs! Thanks I found that the best way to remove the stuck center electrode is to use a long needle nose pliers to pull them out. I had to do it for 5 of the 7 plugs

That “...One/ Two Liner...” part of the video was probably the most important part of the video. Thanks!!!

Your video saved my ass! I have an 08 gt and had 2 snap. Ordered the tool sunday and had them both out in 30 minutes.

You are a genius and lifesaver! I had one cylinder that broke mode 3 and would not grab to extract. Used your drill suggestion and it is out! Thought I was done and off to a shop but you saved my day. One thing I did do was use the pusher sleeve to protect the plug threads and drilled through that. Worked like a charm. Hats off to the best Ford Tech out there. THANK YOU FOR HELPING US ALL WITH THIS ISSUE!

Own a shop on Michigan and had 7 plugs break off on a 3 valve with 265,000 miles on it with original plugs. Had tool break off and video was great. Only suggestion is to hold the centering tool from spinning with pliers. It will mess up treads and need to be tapped out. Other then that it all worked great. Keep up the great videos. Also tool is now on the 4th revision. Four lines now

Another tool tip for ya...... In the event the extractor tool wont bite in, GET A NEW EXTRACTOR. I ran into a f150 last month that the tool just wouldn't bite into the "cup". My tool had only been used on about 5 plugs. Luckily my Snap On rep came in later that day and said he had seen that before and spoke with Lisle and they told him to attempt it with a new tool. I thought no way it would work since my tool was virtually new. Surprisingly it worked perfect. looking at the two tools there was no way of noticing the difference. no sign of wear at all. Last week a buddy had the same issue and I told him to get a another tool and same fix for him. Thankfully Snap On warrantied mine.

you give a very thorough explanation of the problem, which makes it easy to understand what someone is facing, before they start the job...thank you for your videos. I hope you find success in your future pursuits.!!

Excellent video. Have used the Lisle tool and had great success. I am hoping I never have a broken tool or electrode as in these videos.

Good video. We just did these in a buddies 06 F250 with only 60k miles...broke 6 of the 8 lol. The Lisle removed all but one where we had to use the snap on tool to get it to work...and of course it was the passenger rear plug that was a pain. What a job.

I had one where the bottom 1/3rd of the shell broke off and fell into the cylinder instead of splitting the ground electrode. I managed to fish it out once the upper 2/3rds of the shell was extracted. I found a number drill the was .010" larger than the plugh hole and an extension for the bit. Looked into the cylinder with a bore scope. Could see the piece and blindly grabbed it with a pickup tool with three jaws. Took me a couple hours and several tries but won. Thank God it was the number 5 plug. I hate these engines...

Great stuff man. I watched all three videos regarding the plug removal, excellent. Thanks you.

Thanks for all the info, can't say enough about the awesome advice you give. Thanks again. Mark

Excellent Video! thanks for taking the time to make this. I am dealing right now with this issue. My tool has the 4 lines so hopefully it will not break...

I have had success starting the engine and accelerating it and the electrode blows out. But put something over it for safety purposes.works about 60% of the time. Thanks for the vid I will be looking for the tools in your vid this week.

I just bought one, 4 lines, worked great!!

just broke one today, electrode is in the tip of the plug. this is a great way to remove it will have to wait till next week to get the tools. Thanks so much I was wondering why the extractor wouldn't bite now it makes sense after watching countless videos today

I've been watching your videos for a few years. I thought I had already subscribed. Well I'm preparing for the worse with fixing an 2005 Expedition. Getting the Lisle tool and watched the videos. Also subscribed TODAY. Thanks.

Thanks man, this helps alot. I used the cheap O'Reilly's tool with a set that taps threads Into the shell and you have to screw in a tool instead of a backwards threads that bites.

thanks for the tips man. had no clue these lisle tools had been redesigned over the years. i just got mine in the mail today and it happens to have four lines. i hope its a good as the lines predict

Thanks for the vid. I am doing the plugs on a 08 with 256 thousand km on the original plugs. ive broken 4 out of the five i have removed so far. We have a just like that at the shop. The electrode came out on all the ones ive broken so far. the first one came out with the end of the porcelain attached without the shell haha. wish me luck

What also works is running a can of injector cleaner off the rail, then getting the engine up to operating temp, then use an impact wrench to take the plugs out. Works on almost all plugs, then you only have to use the tool on the ones that break. Got to maximize that flat rate!!

Best video I've watched yet. With out this video I would have been screwed. Works perfectly thank you so much man. Very appreciated

Theres a lot of guys on youtube doing Hot engine extraction with an impact gun along with the carbon treatment process. seem to work for the 100% of the time.

Excellent video! I have taken 2 out so far and both broke off. 4.6 3v Mercury Mountaineer

Your videos are great, very informative!

Most people I’ve seen fail with the tool is exactly for that reason. They don’t bottom the tools all the way out. I got my buddy out of jam after he stripped one and saved having to pull the head off by dipping the threads of the puller in JB weld and carefully threading it in so I didn’t get the JB weld outside of the shell. I let it sit overnight and cute I’ll be damned if it didn’t come right out. It really wasn’t to save him it was to save me because I would’ve probably been the one having to pull the head 😂

Lent my tool out 2 lines came back with damaged threads new one has 4 lines latest and greatest I assume. Never tried it on my 2007. Plugs still came out like butter over serviced 20,000 KM changes now $200 for plugs doubling that interval.Just want to get another three years out of this puppy. Currently guessing this thing has had an issue with the odometer I estimate 190,000 km.Took your advise on changing to 5W30 and using Pennzoil platinum have used 5w20 in 5km oil changes for the last 3 years. This oil is the most advanced and cleanest will keep the phaser system working for many years.Yea have the classic cold piston slap issue that plagues the modular engines but when it is at operation temperature quiet as the day I got it.Engine has all original internals.Just waiting for 2021 to get a 2018 3 year lease return like this one half price.

Thank you so much! WTF ford?

I was wondering if I was going to have to pull the heads. I cannot thank you enough for making this video.

Great Video Thanks! Right after I'm done pulling my valve covers to inspect my phasers and VCTS, (also watching your 4 part videos on timing) I'll be doing my plugs. Sounds like lots of fun! Every since I purchased my truck, I now only watch your videos. Apparently your a super star with the F150s according to everyone on the internet! Keep up the great videos , God knows I can sure use them lol. Man, I miss working on small blocks 350 etc 30 years ago. The engines today are so unnecessary it's not funny! 🇨🇦 Also , just like to say there is a free site out there for F150 owners with lots of help if anyone has questions like I have had. " F-150 Forum" Between the Forum and FordTecMakuloco's is all need to fix you Truck! Thanks again!

Beautiful detail. Thank you!!

Great step by step. Invaluable information...

check the air pressure in the tool before trying to get the shell out , should be set at 42psi this way it wont break

Good tip. Thanks for posting this.

Outstanding set of vids brother... Thanks...

Great videos. I am about to do this on my 6.8L V10 motorhome. Is this as big an issue on these engines? 2005, 84,000 miles.

That tool works great! just had to use it Thursday lol

I have a Cresent x2 long nose ( pointed nose pliers ) and was able to reach the pins to pull them out.

Awsome instructions . any advise on extracting broken Napa part # 600- 3148 titanium spark plug insert-

I'm willing to bet that a dab of anti-seize would have helped in these situations. What a PITA. Is it the threads in the head, or the design of the spark plug? Thanks for doing this in-depth.

Just got mine worked like you demonstrated

very informative and easily understandable video.. thank you so much your great !!!!

Great info appreciate the time

Guess I got lucky when I changed my plugs two weeks ago. Plugs 3 and 4 broke, one brought the electrode out and the other didn't. I didn't experience the broken electrode the first time I changed my plugs, so I didn't give it much thought and just went to town with the pusher and I didn't have any issues removing the broken piece.

best video on this topic I have seen

Dopey question: if you push the center electrode, and it bottoms on that ground strap without the strap budging, would it be possible to just drive the electrode/porcelain combo through the strap with a good whack on a punch (bushed to fit the guide)? Not trying to drive it clear, but far enough to get thread bite?

Thanks for all the info. I have a 2004 Ford 150 with the 3 valve 5.4 engine, my question is: what is the correct replacement plug? Someone told me that the plug that came in my truck when I got it new in 2004 is a Motor-Craft number 515. My truck has 82,000 miles on it and I'm currently looking for a replacement plug's in a Motor-Craft or something better.

great job as usual bud, thanx

Thanks for the great vids. I'm about to give this a shot on a 2005 with 73000 miles. If they can get the tools heat treating right...... I think a center hole in the tool would clear the electrode and allow the tool to do the job and not need to deal with the electrode at all.

thanks for the tips

2007 Navigator 86,000 - In addition to following your instruction and the TSB, ran a tank of fuel with a strong concentration of Tectron before starting. Allowed carb cleaner to set overnight. 6 of 8 plugs broken. Anticipating issues, purchased the Lisle tool that arrived today. The extractor has 4 grooves machined into the shaft below the threads - perhaps this is a good thing. I am clear on the process, thanks for a greatt video. How do you know when you have the extracor far enought into the shell? Any other insight / suggestion is apprecuated! Thanks

Great information. Thanks!

Thank you. Awesome video!

FordTechMakuloco, have you ever had any of the ground strap break when the prociealin pushes through the strap and fall into the cylinder head?

Having trouble with #1 plug extraction the threaded part of plug is all that came out entire plug still intact and broke off top section of porcelain chipped away at it a little bit may have damaged threads for spark plug trying to break it off can not get threads on the end of pusher to grip so tried drilling it out a little bit seams like I'm deep enough down but can't get extractor to bite in good enough is it possible that I still have some porcelain in the way or is it due to not being able to use the pusher tool or what any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated 6 out of 8 plugs broke off and this is the last one that I need to get out and may need to repair plug hole as well because pusher tool just keeps turning like hole is stripped out

What do you do when the thread coller breaks lose and just spins. how do you get the top of the plug broke so you can use the lisle tool?

Thk bro. Excellent video 👍

Great video!!

I try to get the electrode out with long needle nose, some times you have to dig out some porcelain to get the electrode out but usually I get them out. If the lisle tool won't bite I took a punch and welded a drill bit to it and break up the porcelain and blow it out.

This issue used to happen to my technicians. Under warranty we would replace the head or send the head to a machine shop. It's really rare these days.

Thanks ,nice video

Do you have any way to test the coil on plugs for the 3 valve 5.4

God bless your heart good sir :)

cool video. ive done a few of these at my other job. for me it was always the back ones that broke :( luckily the tool always got them out. the job im at now wont even touch these plugs, we just tell them to go somewhere else

Nice video!

Nice.....thank you !

GREAT INFO.

Another great video

Great video 👍👊

I remember changing my plugs in my 4.6L. I think I have a 2 valve motor. I bought the Lisle tool but never used it. My plugs all came out with no issue at all.

have a 2000 model expedition 5.4 will it work

Thanks for the video, but what a nightmare. After something like this, 7989 and happy roads.

really great info have a great day

I just had this happen to me last night on cylinders 4 and 8 I'm more than nervous about attempting this on my 06 with 104k. 6 are done and the lisle tool is not getting a bite at all. I'm torn between attempting to drill a little as in this video or sending it to a shop. I have very little room for error as on cylinder 4 my dad was able to get a small bite and stripped a collar of threads off

I used your bur method because I couldn't get the extractor to grip. I was then able to get screwed in tight. I have four line extractor that I have pulled two threads off of. This thing is really tight. Do you have any idea how to proceed?

Brian i have successfully changed 7 of 8 plugs but cylinder 7 broke off and was not flush meaning porcelain and electrode remained and i could not get a bite. Tried drilling out and using 1/4 shank bur bit no luck. Even made my own pusher insert to push the porcelain even further to get a bite no luck. Electrode is mushroomed and porcelain remains. Now the shell is stripped on one side and i am thinking i will have to remove the head. I have a borescope to see whats going on and it doesnt look pretty. What i am looking for from you is any ford material or your knowledge on how to remove the head. It is the drivers side head so lots of shit in the way. I know ill need a valve tool and a few other things but any help you can give me would be great. Want to do it myself because other people charge a ton cause of how tedious it is. Hope to hear from you... Cody

Is the problem just w/ 4.6 and 5.4? I'm ready to do spark plug replacement for 2008 ford f150 4.2 v6. Will I have any issues w/ that engine?

Well done video! Let's make a simple spark plug replacement into a time-wasting, complicated problem. Ford engineers can be such *idiots*.

Where do you get the thin piece of metal at for the drill bit to start straight?

man you are the best!

I just got done removing a broken flat washer seal plug that had a lot of torque on it by drilling off the head down in a hole. That was chore enough, if I had one like these I don't think I could take it.

How often do the plugs in a late build 2008 F150 with 5.4 break? Thank you, and I enjoy the videos.

I know this video is older but if you can please respond, what happens if the porcelain isn't broke, but just the shell came off, it's all in tact other wise, I really don't want to break the porcelain in there if I don't have to.

Where did you get your bit extender

Hey, i love @6:48 using the lyle tool to center the drill, but i gotta one up ya, lol. I got a bit extender from harbor frieght that accepts drill bits with the ¼" drive shank on the end. Those bits should run even truer, than adding a thin piece of metal

great video. I have a plug where the 9/16 hex sheared from the rest of the metal body of the plug. It also left the center electrode and porcelain flush with the sheared off metal. Any ideas?

I don't work on Ford but I heard that to help get them out is to do a upper combustion chamber cleaner in the tank the customer drives with the vehicule with the cleaner in the tank and you could do a intake mist cleaning prosess and put some penetrating oil in the spark plugs well with the engine hot for the night and the next day try to remouve them so does it mean that after the original spark plugs have been replaced the issue is gone do you put some intiseize coumpound when you put new plugs in ?

What is your advice if I cannot get the tool to grip on the metal collar (no porcelain) and may have worn the collar down?

Great video, I've got an '08 Expedition and removed 6 plugs, two of them broke. The extraction tool worked great on one, but the second one broke leaving 3/4in of the electrode protruding. I didn't know how to push or pull it out. Tried needle nose pliers to no avail. It was third one back on drivers side. Any suggestions? I didn't even attempt #4 or #8 because if they had broken off I didn't have enough room to use the extraction tool. Btw I used carb cleaner to soak the plugs overnight

does anyone know of another bur bit that will work? The one listed is out of stock on all sites. Help!!!

First of all, great videos. Very informative, I have learned a lot. Quick question, I have an '05 F150 5.4L. Is there an easy way to test for a bad coil?

You are a absolute life saver, big thumbs up 👍🏽 happy July 4th 😎🇺🇸

What happens when the removal tool wont even take out the top half of the plug, almost like the plug wires are stripped in the head. I have this problem on 4 and 8 right now. I tried using an impact and can't seem to get the top out to extract it. All the other 6 have broke on me.

This video has been a great help so far. I had five plugs break on me, got four out with the Lisle Tool and the drilling trick. BUT...the number 4 plug, passenger side, rear. It is loose but I can not get it to come out. It is like its still holding on to something. Tough spot to get a set of needle nose pliers into and difficult to see in there. Any ideas? I'm ready to super glue a length of rubber tube on to it for more leverage.

Great video:( I have a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4 and 80k miles....I just found out the issue of the spark plugs. I'm thinking to trade in my truck for a 2014 Raptor with the 6.2, Does the 6.2 has the same issues? Do you know if there's any issues at all with the 6.2? Thanks in advance

Finally shell is out but spark plug threads are stripped out new plug won't tighten up what's the best way to repair it and cheapest without having to buy a time sert kit at nearly 400 bucks

That’s not where my spark plug broke tho, mine broke between the nut&threads, will it still work the same?

This guy is good.