FORD 4.0 SOHC TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER REPLACEMENT FORD SPORT TRAC 

Bear in mind that the SOHC-V6 has THREE tensions. The (internal) timing chain tensioner does not normally got bad and cannot be accessed externally. The cam-chain tensioner replaced was for the driver's side bank ONLY. The passenger-side bank is more difficult to access because it is in the REAR of the engine...but it is doable. If ya have to replace one...just do them both for piece of mind. It's s leisurely day's work for both. Ignoring the rattle WILL destroy your chain-guides. Destroyed chain guides is by far the most common problem to an otherwise reliable engine.

The truck looks brand new!! WOW! Good Job!

I have the exact same issue on my 2004 Explorer. The replacement procedure is slightly different due to manifold design change, but this was very helpful nonetheless. Thanks for posting!

Was gonna attempt this come spring. Tho my rattling happens when the engine is warm and rattles in idle. But winter it runs quiet for the most part until oil warms up. Tho at 186,000 miles on a 05, I'm not surprised. Just hope that my tucks timeing chain hasn't been damaged because of loose warn out tensioners.

I used a cheap $10 tensioner and it has LESS tension than my 17 year old oem. Order the oem parts he linked and do it right the first time. Im just happy my cassette is in one piece so I don't have to take the cover off again (replaced main tensioner last weekend). Regardless of tensioner used, soak and squeeze in oil. It works a ton better that way. Side note: mine only has 85k miles.

1:13 Before 5:38 After. Thanks for making this video.

The reason Hans Gruper's comments (below) attempting to help failed miserably and should be ignored is because he doesn't understand that the tight side of the chains will not let valve springs rotate the cams backwards, which is why crankshaft position does not matter when replacing tensioners. He is correct that the SOHC version of the 4.0 is an interference engine unlike the OHV version which is not and extremely important to understand when working on SOHC timing. I would never hand prime these tensioners, because it only makes them too long which is harmful with zero benefit because they self prime to correct length via oil pressure within seconds and the internal springs won't allow chains to jump. I think it's a very good idea to replace the hydraulic tensioners at about 70,000 miles to try to prevent the serious damage of plastic parts breaking which is often caused by malfunctioning tensioners that cause the chains to slap against plastic parts that have become brittle. Malfunctioning tensioners leak down when parked and cause startup rattle until pressure builds which is often a temporary chance to replace them before they destroy the plastic components.

That's a nice looking truck!

I am gonna have to do this on my 01 ranger edge with the 4.0 I believe. It started making that rattling noise this winter

Great video Thank you

Thanks, helped alot!

You got lucky. Anyone attempting this job please be aware - set the engine to TDC before pulling the tensioner. Depending on the position of the cam the valve springs will cause the cam to jump then you are out of time. You'll blow the engine if you don't realize this. Same goes for the rear. For anyone rebuilding - you need the special cam tools. Only buy Ford OEM components as the others are of bad quality. The engine needs to be pulled or the trans dropped to access the rear cam guide bolt.

I just replaced both of these in my 2002 XLS Explorer . Turned out that the tiny hole on the tensioner tip was clogged . That explains the intermittent tapping . Replaced them with the NAPA o.e.m. parts . I've had several customers try to clean the old ones to save money . Don't do it !! Two came back with broken chain guides , which pretty much means replace engine on these models .

Hey, mine Ford 4.0 was sitting on the lift for 5 months, Ive started it few times for few minutes or seconds, when I was changing oil, transmission oil and spark plugs. The oil in car was quite pld, because the previous owner (1st owner) park the vehicle for nearly 8 months and just reparked it sometimes and using it anymore. When ive bought my car I drove with it few time, I made about 100 kms in it before put it on the lift to do service. It was not rattling, after 5 konths, Ive finished the service and start the vehicle, go out and wash it, after then its started to making this noise, firstly it was not so loud and was doing it for about few minutes, I go for the first ride and after 4 kms when engine was warm, it has started to rattle again louder. Ive stopped it, left it for a day and then started it again and the rattling was there but much much quiter qnd went away for about a minute again. Could be the tensioners gone, Due to I have changed the fresh new oil (orig. FORD 5W30), so they do not have enough pressure because of thr new thin oil? (I dont know, which oil were previous owner using).

Can you do a video, or list the place you got your air intake filter? It looks pretty dope

Great video. I hate to see it but it smokes from teh drivers side valve cover just like mine does! Next job.

Wow, just want to clear things up a bit. There are several people saying the driver's side is easier to change. Do not listen to them as they have no clue what they are talking about. The passenger side tensioner is only a ten minute job and only requires one wrench. Also, if you are already getting the noise (plastic timing chain guides) it's too late. Starting in 1997 poor quality tensioners were installed from the factory. By 1999, they started to fail and Ford said the failures were due to poor maint. In 2001 Ford finally investigated and found the springs in the tensioners were failing. Some time in 2002 they started using the improved tensioners. Even if you Ranger/Explorer is a post 2002 year, it's wise to replace your tensioners now before the timing chain guide rattle begins. It's also very important to use only genuine Motorcraft tensioners. If the temsioners fail, you will be having the engine pulled to replace the timing chain cassettes. I hope this helps clear up the misinformation in the comments section.

Great video..dude..hope its my front one ..Itvrattles on cold start.

Aw man under your hood looks so clean, I'm new to this, I just recently brought a 2003 sport Trac, how do I clean it like that?

did you have to match up the holes?

That such a friend a question I want to change the same tensor but I worry if you get out of time is this possible?

299000+ , I think Ford did OK 👍 Should have rethought the whole 3 chain timing thing...but chains are better than belts as far as durability. It is all a trade off.

Do you have to prime the new tensioner before installing? Or can I go ahead without priming seeing that it would be easier this way. It would be easier to install without priming and less risk of cross threading due to less tension when making contact on the guides. What do you think?

Tha main issue causing the noise is the cam chain guides, they are moat likely broken and/or gone altogether.

Sounded like a diesel at first...lol good job on the video

I had all the guides , chains and cassets replaced except these tensioners on my 04 explorer . There's still a little chain noise in rear side by the firewall. Could it be that the original engine tensioners are worn and dont apply enough pressure on it as it should ? I used Ford parts only btw. Thanks.

I have a hum coming from the same general area, not sure if they are related

I see some smoking right of the engine oil dip stick at 5:52 of the video, it is the same with my sport trac 2005. It is an oil leak getting in contact with the exhaust manifold. Can you tell me if it is a serious problem? What causes it. And how can i troubleshoot it. Thank you!

Looking for help..how to fix my 2001 ford explorer soprt trac utility pick up timeing belt

2001 4.0 on my explorer sport. During a cold start the chains make noise for 1 or 2 seconds max and then are completely quiet after that both when idling and driving at any RPM. Even if the engine is turned off after completely warming up and then turned back on 1 or 2 hours later the chains won’t rattle when started back up… I replaced both tensioners using OEM ford parts and this made no difference in getting rid of the 2 seconds of cold startup rattle that was present before replacing both tensioners and the reason I replaced them in the first place. When I removed the old tensioners they both seemed to still have good resistance when trying to compress them compared to the new ones which indicates the old ones were “probably” still ok. Again, after those brief 2 seconds of rattle when started up when the engines is completely cold (ie been sitting for more than a few hours) it’s quiet and it never rattles or makes noise any other time. One other thing to note is that if I do the flooded crank start method before starting it when cold, it will NOT make the 1 or 2 second rattle. (I will hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn and hold the key to crank the engine but not turn it over until after about 10 seconds and when I see the oil pressure gauge move to the middle, I let go of the gas pedal and start it) If I cold start it using this method it will NOT make the 1 or 2 seconds of startup rattle. Is this my guides that are broken or is this normal to have a second or two of rattle when the engine is completely cold to build oil pressure and have it get to the tensioners so they tighten up to hold the chain? I’ve had this vehicle for a little over a month now and the symptom has stayed exactly same even after replacing the tensioners and changing the oil using high mileage oil and Motorcraft filter. I just want to know if this is normal or if it’s not and I should get rid of the vehicle if a larger problem is imminent.

how did you get the new started mine keep trying to cross thread did pry something to keep it aligned ?

Question. Do the holes in the tensioner line up with block once it’s screwed in?

This driver side is the easier of the two on this engine. The passenger side is a little more work, i.e., taking out the whole engine to access because there's no room to do it otherwise. You're fortunate that it was just the driver side. Good job on the driver side, though :)

I got a noise like that on a 4.0 SOHC engine at 252,000. But using a mechanics stethoscope I don't hear the noise from the chains, but rather the fuel injectors are clicking very loudly.

If the cassette or "guide" for the chain has broken, then you will need a new engine. Or a replacement/rebuild.

Did you remove the coolant temp sensor? Mine is directly in the way of the tensioner

My 2002 explorer XLT 4.0 4wd all I have to take off to take top tensioner out is temp sending unit out WTF

Hey at 4:08 I noticed that the original tensioner you removed had a washers/gasket on it. I' m looking online on various websites that sell the OEM motorcraft tensioners and it appears none of them come with washers/gaskets..I would imagine you need a washer so it doesn't leak. In that case, then can you just use any washers that fit on the tensioner? Thanks

What about the right cylinder timing chain? Is that in the back near the firewall?

Tourqe spec for the top ?

Can you tell me the Best brand on chain tensiones on 4,0 tkank you Mexicali BC México,,,

Have you made a video for the other timing chain tensioner yet?

did you have to put on a washer with it ?

How tight did you go bolt? Will be doing this weekend. Thanks

This was what happened to mine, but one day it quit on me going down the road. What do I do to fix it? Is it too late?

can someone please please help me I did the same thing the noise got louder and faster and all my oil leaked from idk where cause I was nowhere near working on the bottom.

Did you soak to tensioners in oil prior to installing?

Thanks for the video. Do you have to prime the new tensioner with oil before installations?

Andaleeee

What kind of lift do you have and size tires

Did u prime it before installing the new one?

Didnt do 1/2 of that to R&R the tensioner. 27mm socket, long extension, removed the water temp via the clip, and throttle body. Did remove the valve cover to put pressure on the guide, so it would be easier to screw the tensioner in. And that sucker was installed by King Kong!!

Mine makes this noise after it warms up some could this be my problem?

Mine dont go all the way in do u have any advise

I changed mine out exactly as you did, but now I have a major oil leak. Gonna tear it apart again and see if I can fix it. As soon as I start the vehicle, the oil starts runnong down the side by the alternator.

Sounds like its time to replace the Timming chains which is normal for these i have a 2001

Just an FYI, I'm pretty sure these engines have a timing chain front and rear

damn the long ads. youtube starting to suck

Watched all these videos on the Ford 4.0 timing chain tensioner, no one has mentioned that early 2001 sport trac and older 4.0 models, this technique does not work, on those models you have to pull the intake manifold, the intake on these models are different than every video I have seen online...

What was the 8th digit of the v.i.n. on the this truck?

Did you get to do the rear ones?

Have a 2001 Exployer sport trac had same problem , Thay have differnt 4.0 engines and ford did recall some them for this .

Anyone in north Carolina wanna help me fix mine?

Wow that rattle sounds worse than mine and its continuous. Mine lasts about 5 seconds.

Sounds the same.

No, you did not fix it... you need to get in there and replace the cassette.

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