In this video, i teardown this 6R80 that had a Delay in Reverse and a 2-3 Flared shift, the common clutch on this is the B clutch which was no good. Most likely burned out due to a bad pump. Thanks for watching.
Another slick video Gary. Is the shortage of frame something only the 6R80's suffer from? Besides the diode (which if I remember correctly is only on the updated 6R80's) would most other main rotating parts be interchangeable with the ZF6HP26/28?
It's nice to learn with your teardown videos.Have a lot of leakage in my automatic transmission mainly in the clutch packs shown in the video.I should have changed the atf fluid at the right time but i forgot to do that.There's some fault codes on electronic injection,ABS and automatic transmission.
I might be able to explain parts shortages from ford and maybe others. In 2008 or 2009. One of the auto industry talk shows on PBS. Not autoweek. Had tier 1 suppliers in at a round table talk. One of the long term tier 1 suppliers to ford said that ford always ordered 1/3 more parts than ford needed to build that model years car. Leaving a lot of parts to scrap. So they just build 1/3 less than the contract calls for to reduce the amount they had to scrap. I wanted to leap thru the TV and strangle that rep. Those parts built beyond what was needed for the assembly line are supposed to go to the ford service parts division. This may have been going on for decades. And explains why parts are not available to fix one year old cars. Did the other tier 1 suppliers take that info back to their companies to improve profits.
I have a 2015 f150 5.0 with a flare from 4-5 only when hot. Slight delay in reverse. I'm looking at the same cluch as the issue. Would you agree? I have read something about the piston for the clutch getting cracked.
Good stuff Gary great tear down i have a 2017 F150 Lariat 5.0 L 6 speed Did a few ad ons with my motor its about 650 hp Ford says this 6R80 Transmission is rated for 1000 Hp. I only have 62,000 km . on the truck Just blew my transmission Wondering what you would suggest for for a performance up graded package with clutches & torque ( not racing at the track ) but still want a more heavey duty package
Transmissions are pretty good, not so sure about 1000 horse power. There is a company called Alto that may make something rated for at least 750HP, i would also change the Overdrive drum and hub, they both like to break, all new bushings too. Not sure if you could find the Alto product, not sure if they sell to the public
Gary , what would be the best way to reach you . I have a 5hp19 that I’m considering shipping from the west coast. I’d appreciate a reply at your convenience.
This is great. You do an amazing job man. I cannot figure out my transmission. I have 1,2,3 hard shift 4th and absolutely no 5th gear. I cant figure out what is wrong . I am trying to learn as much as I can about these 6r80s.
Hi Garry Love watching your vids. I have a gen 1 series 2, 6R80, 2014. With the A clutch hub I notice that Durabond have two different bushes. 7BR and a 12BR. They are also longer than the originals. It appears the 12 comes in the premium kit (15b) and the 7 comes in the normal kit (15). The 12 has recesses or pocks in the surface. Also the size seems to be sightly different. I have had trouble with the 7BRs being too tight on the shaft and almost covers the completely the lube hole. I thought I saw you mention the length as a problem in one of your vids once, but I cant find it again. Do you have any advice. Cheers Rob
Yes, some of bushing for the 6R80 are shorter. I press them in and keep an eye on how far they should go down or the hubs and drums may fit to tight. After the bushing is in place i use my angle grinder with a course pads to shave the rest of the bushing off .
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary I've been looking into this issue a bit. Sonnax actually have two bushes a front and a back both slightly different sizes and both the original factory width and style with the dimples. In a kit exclusively for 6R80 (95030-80K). 95030-06F (Front) Bushing Style: Precision Material: Steel-backed alloy Housing Bore: 1.062" Shaft Dia.: 0.952" Width: 0.384" 95030-06E (Back) Bushing Style: Precision Material: Steel-backed alloy Housing Bore: 1.063" Shaft Dia.: 0.952" Width: 0.384" In the durabond kit their front and back are the same size and 2mm wider. In their std kit these are included: 2 x Forward Clutch Hub (Small Bore) ZFT-1-7BR (Bronze) 1.0660 (actual OD) In their enhanced kit these are included: 2 x Forward Clutch Hub (Small Bore) ZFT-1-12BR (Bronze) 1.0665 (actual OD) I don't really understand these differences and I'm sure some may not mater. What do you think? Cheers
What types of questions would you suggest to ask a prospective transmission place when evaluating whether to use them for service or not? Any signs I should look for to make me turn and run? I have a 2011 F150 just like in this video. Has a shudder when starting out from a stop, hot or cold.
Just bought a 2010 Explorer 132k with 4.6 V8 and 6R80. Only drove it in Brooklyn traffic so barely shifted at all cuz slow traffic. No idea about maintenance history. In cars I'm a reader (found you) not a DIY person. Thinking first step (after trying some highway driving) is come to you and drop pan, replace some fluid and filter and maybe install drain plug? Sound right?
Sure, i can service the trans for you, Can't really Install a drain plug but you may be able to find a new pan with one, some aftermarket companies may make them
I have a 2013 ford f150 with the 4WD 6R80 and I have a slight shudder and it like to ride 3rd gear when accelerating. The big thing is that the previous owner did no transmission service so fluid is pretty Burnt. Anyway I can save it? Or do I have to overhaul it at this point?? No slip just a slight shudder and very dirty fluid!
If it's a converter shudder, drop the pan, install new filter, pangasket and fluid, also put in a motorcraft posi additive or there is another product called Instant shudder fix in a red tube, either one will work and you may be ok
Lead frame may not have been bad but they have such a high failure rate, i changed it. Back in the day i could get them easy, now you can't get them, solenoids are sold separately for this unit
Awesome video. Just dropped the valve body on my 13 ecoboost and found solenoid “D” basically blown apart by the electrical connections. Lead frame and solenoid connectors were bent so i replaced lead frame and all solenoids but it happened again. Guessing my valve body is bad but only code i get is P0765 SS D malfunction. Any ideas? Thanks PS I grew up in WH off of Eagle Ave
I have a 6r80 216000. Makes a loud squawk 3rd to 4th and 5-3 downshift. Lucas did not work and also tried a friction modifier from ford. Problem is still there
From what I have read, it might be the overdrive clutch plates, but I have yet to find a solution that works that doesn’t involve replacing transmission
Besides the noise it shifts through all the gears like normal except 3rd to 4th is harsh. Would this sound mean my transmission is on its way out? I paid $65 for the tsb additive and it did absolutely nothing
@@GaryFerraro snap-on Solus it's only updated to 2018, I'm not at the car I have it stored at a buddy's shop, but I believe the code was either P2700 or P2704 it was a code for one of the friction plates! I can tear down and rebuild motors no prob but Im not good with transmission issues.
@@GaryFerraro The snap-on Solus scanner is updated to 2018, you asked what I scanned it with so I was being specific about the scanner. The mustang is a 2016 gt 6r80.
@@paulhastings7480 ok, that code is for the E clutch or overdrive clutch, common issues with the E drum is the rear stator bushing wears out causing the E clutch apply oil to escape which will cause shifting problems in 4th-5th and 6th gears. Another problem that i have seen is the E clutch drum cracks
