Perfect timing. I was about to order two new remotes from Amazon so now I will use your Amazon affiliate link and order a set of remotes. Thank you for the video.
Thank you. I have a yr 2000 Powerstroke. Purchased 2 remotes. The videos for Ford were denoting 8 key turns which didn't work. Found your vid, 5 key turns and programmed. Good on for sharing your experience.
@@TowMan127 might be a different number of turns. Maybe try the 8 turns I’ve heard others have. Or might just not have the option on the truck. Not all of them did.
@@TowMan127 First question, does your remote system still function. Not insulting your intelligence; however, on a previous 1997 Powerstroke I owned, this was an issue. For the 2000 7.3 we're discussing, I was offered 2 solutions, 7 on/off's with the ignition key and 5 on/off's. The 7 didn't work. The 5 did. I turned the ignition to the on position, on the 5th turn, I heard the door locks react. I didn't turn the ignition off, left it on and pushed the open button on the remote. I did this for setting 3 remotes. Hope this helps, Good Luck.
@@Opnstarlite I recently purchased this truck, but the remote doesn’t have a battery so I’m only assuming the original remote worked at sometime. I will try again and see what happens. If I can’t get into work, it won’t be the biggest deal, would be nice to have a remote though
Great! I have two of these trucks that need this. One to program a 2nd key and the other needs to be checked to see if it can be done. I’ve always though it should have had keyless entry! Keep up the great content! Love the house stuff too but really interested in all the 7.3 stuff!!! Thanks! 👍🏼👍🏼
Recently found your channel and liked and subscribed... I have a 02 7.3. F 250 crew cab short bed 2wd Az.beige 121 k miles ....and I will need another key fob as well ..... Thanks for the video Brother.
Appreciate the video…not sure my XLT will have the actuator but I will test it now that I know how. It will be a shame if it does since I have had the truck for over 19 years without one lol. Thanks boss…let them coming!!!
Mine didn’t have it but it was added on as aftermarket and I have automatic start on it I have the fobs just didn’t know how to program it definitely give it a try n see if it works
This is a timely video for me as I need a replacement fob. I recently lost one of my original fobs and the first owner replaced the door locks with plugs, so a fob is required for entry
Hello , the house is coming along nicely. Ive been watching all the progress. I have a question for you. My ford has developed this type of hiss or sound like a vacuum leak. When you first start it up it idles normally and then 3 minutes or so later the idle jumps up. When i knock it back down it does it again. When im driving you can feel the truck drag a little i guess then release. Would you happen to know what that is? I dont have anything leaking and it doesn’t effect breaking etc. i just had the transmission rebuilt so i doubt it would have anything to do with it. Do you have any thoughts of what it could be?
Sounds like it is your exhaust back pressure valve. In cold startups the truck will go into a high idle and close the valve to help warm up the truck faster. That’s totally normal. If it’s closing while driving then it’s malfunctioning. Mine is doing the same thing right now. It’s pretty common for people to just unplug them. The plug is in the front of the turbo pedestal. If you undo that I’d bet your hissing sound will go away.
The truck starts normal and when you walk away…a few minutes the idle goes up and never kicks down unless i do it….and it will kick the idle up again. I recently had the automatic transmission rebuilt and has been excellent til just lately ….while im driving i hear like a hissing and or a sucking noise…it actually makes the truck feel like it has a restriction then lets go….really strange, i dont see any black smoke. It has 141,000 miles on it. My father in law bought it new and basically never left the farm
Yes. The high idle is normal when warming up. The hissing and kiss of power is most likely from the exhaust back pressure valve closing. It’s normal for it to close on cold mornings. Like I said though, if it’s closing while driving then it’s malfunctioning. It’s a common issue. I would recommend unplugging it on your turbo pedestal. It’s easy to find. It’s the only plug on the front of your turbo pedestal. If you have an OBS I think it might be on the drivers side if the pedestal.
I unplugged the sensor in the front of the engine and it stopped the hissing. It still idles up even after it is warmed up. It takes a few minutes for that to happen. The other part you were speaking about was that the red vacuum line with green @@LivingOnWheels
Honestly kinda depends on budget and preferences. They both have their pros and cons. If you’re looking at spending big money then either truck will be great. I would avoid all fords between 03-10. 2011+ either are good trucks. If you’re looking mid range budget a 3rd gen dodge us probably the way to go. 3rd gen dodge 03+ is when the truck build quality became comparable to ford. I personally wouldn’t want to have a 2nd gen as my main rig. The truck build quality is really cheap. So if you’re looking for an older rig ford is definitely built better. That being said, a v8 will always be more of a pain to work on compared to a i6. It is sooo much nicer to work on a Cummins than a powerstroke haha. Engine wise: Ford 7.3 is good 95-2003 Dodge 12 valve is great 89-97 Ford 6.0 is iffy 03-07 Dodge 24v VE pump is iffy 98-02 Ford 6.4 is garbage 09-10 Dodge 24v 5.9 cp3 is great 03-07 Ford and dodge 6.7s are good engines.
I just watched your video on the key fob. I have a 2001 lariat super duty. Can you tell me why my door locks don’t work with the button on the door panel and how to fix it. I don’t have a key fob to program and if I did it probably wouldn’t work because it doesn’t work with the switch. Got any suggestions.
I’d say that either your door switch is bad or you key lock actuators are bad. Do both door panel switches not work? It’s pretty common on these trucks for the actuators to go out.
Just went out and tried that. I had no idea it was a thing haha. I’m sure that’s in place to not accidentally lock yourself out while it’s running. I have no idea how to bypass it.
Would this also program for a command start I bought a 2000 f-250 and it didn’t come with a fob but there is a factory command start installed thanks for all your older videos has helped me a lot with my 7.3. I actually have another question for you regarding tunes I installed a hydra with custom tunes just put ffd 1.5’s in and when the truck is downshifting from OD is downshifts hard thanks again
Kim honestly not sure. I hadn’t ever heard of remote start this far back in the years. If it has that I’d think it has keyless entry. Can always check to see if the locks cycle in the same way. As far as the shifting goes I’m guessing it’s just a tuning thing. If it dies it in every tune maybe look at getting a tune revision. The hotter tunes tend to shift harder. Best bet it to call who ever wrote the tunes.
Yeah, they are definitely tricky to get to. I had to switch mine out on my first 7.3. I can’t say for certain without testing but my guess is it’s the actuators. They are more prone to go out than the switches. Do you hear them trying to move at all? Or is is just nothing when you hit the button?
I've been procrastinating about changing the electronic door lock actuators on my truck for years. I've got the key fab, but it's useless with bad actuators 🫣
