I replaced my ECT sensor with an aftermarket one and my gauge quit working completely. Before, my E150 with a 4.2 v6 would show it was overheating after revving above 2500rpm, it would peg out and act like its overheating when the engine actually wasnt overheating. My ECT also fell apart when removing it also, just like yours did. Now I'm gonna grab an OEM one and hope for the best, thanks for the video.
A sensor and a sender are two different things. Look closely at the diagram. The SENDER will send temp info to your dash gauge. It’s like a thermometer. The sensor sends info to your ECU. If your gauge isn’t reading correctly (or at all), you need a ECT SENDER. When you buy one, the product will either say SENDER or SENSOR/SENDER. You can’t buy one that only says sensor.
Dadonk123 I gave f150 the radiator, thermostat and fan clutch have been replaced. The temperature gauge still after running for several miles when I go up a hill the temperature gauge pegs out and odometer says check gauges. The f150 is 2005 do you think it is the sensor for the gauge is bad. All repairs were done by a repair shop. Has new coolant fluid and was flushed
My 99 S/D has an anomaly where sometimes on the highway, I get a cylinder head overtemp code which emits some dings from the cluster and spikes the temp gauge to the max which to me, implies that the ECM controls that gauge. Merely putting it in park and shutting it off for just a moment resets the ECM as I'm able to start it back up and the temp returns to it's previous reading of operating temp, with the Check Engine light on till I clear that code (P1299). My research leads me to believe it is the Cylinder Head Temp sensor (CHT), but I plan to replace them both very soon.
I bought an aftermarket sensor for the gauges(I’ve read the ecm uses a different one) and it seems the engine now is overheating. I thought something was wrong with the car and found some issues and fixed them: evap solenoid, EGR valve, and the preconverters didn’t look ok on a thermal camera scan: inlet hotter than outlet. turned out they were missing the cores. But the car still overheats while the water pressure doesn’t go past the valve cap rating. I suspect the aftermarket sensor is not well calibrated. I just bought another one from a different brand and this one read like 30ohm higher than the oem. Maybe I can fix the connector and put the old genuine one back. but I’ll test the one on the car also. the aftermarket sensor had info about the resistance at two temperature points but they should provide a lot more for testing before installation as long as they can’t produce a proper simple sensor. I can understand they don’t have the data sheet from the manufacturer but at least. they could choose them to match at critical points like 80, 90,100, 110, 120C they should be within say 3% not 10%
I appreciate this. Trying to figure out a hot running 92 F150 5.0. Replaced waterpump, thermostat, radiator cap, fan clutch, and sending unit to Guage. Truck doesn't appear to be hot but Guage says close to it. After market crap it must be. Going to buy OEM and start with the temp sending unit to guage.
One is a sensor, the ECT sensor. One is a sender, for the guage. They're two different parts. The ECT sensor has a cone shaped probe, like you were showing. The temperature sender more of a peg shaped end. People at the parts stores don't know the difference, and shopping online is ultimately "you just gotta know" sort of thing. If i was you, id throw all of those in the trash, and go buy a Ford Motorcraft ECT sensor, and a Ford Motorcraft temperature sender. Believe me, I have enough aftermarket parts that sorta work to build an entire '89 F150 AND a '99 Ranger. OEM is the way to go if you want it to work how it should.
Great vid. I have a 78 Ford F100. Can you tell me what the connector looks like that the sensor wire plugs into? The connector that goes into the firewall. Thanks!
I ohm'd out a 'stock' coolant temperature sensor on an 1992 F150 I^ (top, front of engine); it's a ROUND connector, not squarish, and it was 3.3k ohm at 74F.
I have replaced the thermostat housing on a 98 Ford explorer 4.0 had two brand new sensors in it but when I crank it up it runs for 10 seconds and it'll go up to half the temperature and only be 134°, so I guess it could be the sensors just ain't no good and the man sent me a whole new unit and I put new sensors in there and it done the same thing and 212 degrees is not hot for these new cars if my Maverick gets 195. I get scared
I have the same problem - how much was the OEM sensor I bought one at auto zone for 27.00 and I think it is aftermarket do aftermarket cost that much???
OEM is the only way to go! Also try to stay away from eBay perfect looking fake OEM parts (sensors, plugs, PCV...) My truc was idling rough for 3 years until I reinstalled the old PCV I had replaced from a bagged OEM on eBay 🙄
I have a 2005 f150 4.2L. I've looked everywhere for an answer. Problem is that the gauge goes to hot after 20 minutes of driving. It does not actually over heat. Changed cylinder head temperature sensor, thermostat, instrument cluster. Has no leaks no air in coolant system. I'm not sure if this model has a coolant temperature sensor.
@@collinporter7797 Yes, my problem was that the radiator and heater core was clogged. When I bought the truck used the man said he didn't really drive it. So I'm guessing the antifreeze started to rust in the system causing it to clog. Hope this helps
@@collinporter7797 correct, that was the only thing that led me to believe it was clogged. After getting it flushed I assumed that other parts were clogged as well. Good thing I was right. Spend a good 2k in parts and labor trying to find out.
