Great tutorial, It was pleasant to listen to without the rambling about everything else other than the actual fix, You kept with the narrative , also annoying when comments are made about their own two cents Oif how much experience everyone has and just because someone’s being doing something for 80 years doesn’t mean they’re doing it correctly, okay , my apologies as I’m doing just what I said annoyed me , I’ll shut up and watch your video again . Keep up the good work.
why did you take the snap ring off? on my 87 4runner all that does is hold the half shaft in, the bearing nuts will come off over that. they make sockets for the bearing nuts as well instead of burring them up
I watched another video and it didn’t tell me about how it could be 180 degrees out even if the line lines up on the timing cover and I fucked my shit up but this video saved my ass
Hi mister, I’d like just to ask a question 🙋🏽. Hopefully you can help, I got a 95 civic coupe that has pulley with only 2 bands, so I’m adding power steering to my car and I need a 3 band pulley or main harmonic whatever it’s called, which I already got and plan to install. My concern or doubt is, does this pulley need to be marked where it goes, or just take it off and put the new one in? Does affect anything if just installed in without paying attention to like where it starts and ends? Hope you understand my concern. Thank you very much.
This is by far the best technical explanation that is not from a GM mechanical engineer. His calm voice simply indicates " I got this" This is the type of technician that I would've paid top dollars to work in my shop. With this guy on board quality workmanship And customers satisfaction are simply guaranteed. Thank you for your video. Congratulations .you get five stars from me
Great video.....my dad used to just put paper towel on the spark hole and turn crank and once you here a pop from compression blowing paper towel out you know your on compression
I had p1345 code and installed a new distributor when i noticed damage on original i was hoping that would fix code but it hasnt i set the rotor to spark plug 1 before switching and made sure was flush to engine vehicle starts and runs but still same code think i need to get hooked up to scan tool
Half moons should have been done and then any dirt/grime that falls on the cam lobes should be wiped off and then use a separate clean rag dipped in oil to wipe them so they are not dry when engine is started. Other than that pretty solid diy video.
Im doing brake pads on 89 pickup im not seeing the metal clips on old caliper that hold pads. U shaped. Are they not on these trucks. I picked some up but not seeing where they go.
Dude you over complicated stuff at one point you said if you have the valve cover off then just look at the valves open and close to see when your in compression cycle right, I'm willing to bet a nickel that if people have there valve cover off already they already know how to install there distributor ok so it's useless information and confusing...I say all that only cause it confused the hell out of me... Ok so instead remove spark plug for cylinder no. 1 stuff a small wad of tp or a piece of paper napkin just make sure to kinda plug the hole up dont dare try or even think of stuffing it as if it was a turkey ok you then remove the distributor cap so the engine won't start bump the key ok as soon as its in compression cycle the air will blow the tp or napkin off then simply rotate engine with a socket on the main pulley and line up your timing marks done your TDC NOW you mark your rotor with a permanent maker to where it's pointing remove the distributor screw holding it down in its place now slowly pull distributor up and pay very very good attention cause you now have to set a second mark on distributor cause it will rotate cause of the gear it has at the bottom that engages with your cam ok Now to install transfer your two marks over to new distributor and make sure your rotor is pointing to the second mark you made ok as the distributor drops in place it's going to rotate the same amount it did as when you removed it ending up pointing to your original and first mark you made when you first removed the cap Now if all this is done correctly the timing will be just as it was before you started. Not to difficult but it's very very important that you pay close attention to exactly what your doing and have no distractions. It's also recommended to take video and/or plenty I mean lots of pictures. I personally take a photo of whatever I'm removing right before I do like every nut,bolt,screw,hose,belt,clip well you get the picture ok (lol) Maybe try this method out Disclaimer: I'm not s certified mechanic so don't take this as true and correct in any way shape or form I truly recommend you to seek a certified professional mechanic and I will not be held responsible for any and/or all damages or failures that can occur your at your own risk
Your videos (this, and the long one) make everything so clear! It crystallised to me the link between TDC on the first cylinder and the spark on the first cylinder’s spark pug. Today i didn’t need to guess and worry - just went ahead and replaced the old plastic distributour with a robust new one. Thanks!
im just gonna say it if you dont mark it your dodge power rammed. its impossible to find the right angle on oil pump shaft where the rotor ends up pointing at cylinder one. im not talking about turning it with screw driver im talking when distributor finally seats i can never get it pointing at 1
ive followed everything you did. i pulled mine out without marking it. but its impossible to line oil pump shaft to where distriibuter drops down pointing to number one
