Man. I think you did a really good job on your instal. My only thing is that sub takes up way to much trunk space. I had that same sub, but then had my shop build me a custom sub box on the tailgate.
Thank you. But because I have the ability to turn the enclosure sideways for the added space if needed the size hasnt been an issue for me. Plus i can easily remove the enclosure when needed. As far as the tailgate enclosures or even the stealth enclosures you can get or have made, they lack the output i look for so I personally wouldnt get any of those unless there was no other viable option for me.
Awesome job is video awesome job for your sound system... I had to watch your video because I did the same thing With my bronco. Rockford Fosgate speakers 300 w amp and sub. Cost me $1500 to have installed. Not quite till the extreme you did, but it does sound a 1000% better than the old system. Again excellent video....
Great video, thank you for bringing tons of value! Quick question: I have a '21 Bronco OBX Lux with the B&O sound system. I just ordered new speaker pods, Kicker CS 6.5s for the roll bar/pods, Kicker CS 6.75 for the kick panels, and Kicker CS 4 for the front corners to improve clarity (I'll leave the B&O sub for now). I have an aftermarket 4-channel amp that I want to use to power these speakers. Do you have any suggestions on the best way to get a signal from the head unit to the amp without spending a fortune? I'm okay with buying a DSP, but I'm still unclear on where exactly to tap into the factory head unit to get the signal to the DSP. I've rewatched the video several times but it still doesn't click with me. Any clarity you can provide would be highly appreciated! Thanks! .... PS - I like the idea of adding/plugging tweeters and the front center speaker into the factory harnesses to preserve some of the vehicle's functionality. You get 10 bonus stars for that pro tip!
Thank you for the compliments and support. The DSP is essentially an LOC and EQ combined so technically for your setup all you’d need is a Line Out Converter (LOC) to convert your speaker wires to usable RCA’s for your 4-channel amp. essentially you’d tap into the same wires i did in this video (front corner dash and front kick panel speakers). PAC also makes an amp integration harness & LOC that makes it even more simple with no additional equipment needed. The PAC harness for the Bronco wasnt available yet when i did my sound system but if you’re interested in that aspect then look up the PAC AmpPRO for 2018+ Ford B&O Amp integration harness (part# AP4-FD31).
@@Srtfiedofficial dude! Thank you for the clarification. This step was exactly where I was lost. Great solution and thank you for the fast reply. Your content is great, and you've built some sick systems bro!
For the Front 6.5 Inch Components the Hertz CK 165 F. Those came with a external crossover. Because you got the DSP Did you still need to use the crossover or would everything just be tuned from the DSP and theres no need for any crossover? My plan is to have separate channels from the amp for the kick panels, front corners and tweets and having a DSP in the set up.
Yes I still needed to use the external crossovers since i did not wire the components in an active configuration. If i would have wired the tweeters to their own channel on the amp and the mids to their own channel also then i wouldnt have needed the crossovers that came with them.
Damn good video bruh!! Very informational and specific and clean install! JL audio is a damn good brand, not very budget friendly but great sound qaulity. I still have my 2 JL audio 1000/1's and 300/4 just chilling in the closet for the next install.. keep the good videos coming bruh! 💯👌💪
Hey brotha I’m doing something similar in my bronco currently. How did you turn down the factory chimes and head unit sounds after you amplified your speakers?
I turned the head unit sounds off via the head unit settings, however because I didn’t tap into the speakers that had those chimes, they arent amplified and sound normal. The back up sensing chimes and blind spot warning chimes come out of my rear tweeters i added to the factory rear speaker wires. The front collision warning chimes come out of the front center speaker that is also just running off of the factory wiring from the head unit.
Great video. I have a 22 wildtrak I'm about to build. Only thing I would have done different for ease of install, is a pac audio AP4-FD31. It's for b&o. Can do rca straight to the Amps or toslink into the dsp.
If it wasnt for the fact that i needed high level inputs for my DSP I already had from previous vehicles, i would have gone that route but i wanted to utilize the equipment i already had so I had to do extra steps.
I have the issue with the noise cancellation, heard there’s an adapter to bypass ANC, but in the time being until it comes in, I had my microphones unplugged but still do get some noises, how do I fix the issue of still hearing audio where at 0 volume, granted the audio you hear is so low at 0 but 0 should= no audio / no white noise
Both amps, distribution block and crossovers would have fit on your amp rack with room to spare. I have two VXi amps, VXi-HUB, LC7i and a distribution block mounted on that exact same amp rack.
Everything was thoroughly explained step by step with visuals if you watch the full video! The sound processor is also a line output converter that converts your factory speaker wires into RCA outputs for your amp which is why i ran the factory front corner dash and kick panel speaker wires to it and then ran new speaker wire back to the speakers separately from the aftermarket crossovers & amp.
Thanks bro and yea that HD 750 is plenty for that sub. Technically according to JL, the 12 inch W7 is rated a max of 1000 Watts RMS and 750 Watts RMS being optimal. You could run more power to it but it will void the W7s warranty. That being said, the HD 750 amp is plenty for that sub as literally everyone who has listened to my setup cant believe it’s just one sub on a 750 Watt RMS amp.
@TRDproMike the HD600 is a 4 channel amp so it’s a 600/4. In terms of reliability ive had this exact same setup in my past two vehicles so in total ive had it for 7 years now with no issues except I had my Subwoofer rebuilt when I put a hole in the foam surround on accident (video is on my channel about that). But overall both my amps and sub have been great with no issues.
@@Srtfiedofficial hell yeah bro I don’t care what anybody says about JL Audio that shit is the best!! I currently have 210 inchTW3 with the RD 1000/1 they sound good, but you know that W7 is on a whole other level!! I plan on upgrading to these amps. Thanks for the response.👊🏼
Good information but why do you think you have to speak in ebonics to relay a message. You slur your words, cut off words. I turned it off your command of the English language is quite appalling
Thank you for tuning in and apparently my so called slurring and ebonics wasn’t bad enough to where you were still able to get good information out of it like you just admitted lol. If the way I talk bothers you then feel free to find the information you’re searching for on other channels and/or videos on youtube. Again thanks for tuning in😉.
What a cheap half ass method to install amps and sub. Nothing here is custom and can be placed into any other vehicle. Sorry but I have seen far superior stereo upgrades in these Broncos. Suppose you didn't have the knowledge, ability or funds for a truly custom install?
You’re either a troll or you obviously dont have any knowledge about car audio. That being said thanks for tuning in and sharing your thoughts despite the ignorance and back handed comment.
@Srtfiedofficial I've had better custom systems installed. Please look at other Bronco stereo installs. A better install had the amps installed under cargo floor with double fans for cooling air flow. Also had a custom sub box built not that pos I saw in this video.
@trentcasey1354 ok and where do you see anything in or about this video that states that this is a custom sound system build? It clearly states that this is just a full overhaul and upgrade from the B&O setup and showing how someone can do this themselves versus having someone else install it for them. If you know anything about car audio you would know that nothing used in this overhaul is cheap or done half assed as you state, but to each its own. Not everyone needs to or wants to go full custom when upgrading the sound regardless if you know how to do it or not & if you have the funds for it or not.
