Ford C6 Rebuild, Pt 1: Overview and Sub Assemblies (Read Description) 

Hey Terry - please subscribe and stay tuned as my next video series will focus on building flux capacitors and using them to turn any vehicle into a time machine, haha😎 Thank you for watching!

Thanks again, man!

@mytransmissions5390 no..thank you. I'm 62 years old and I've always wanted to rebuild an automatic transmission and you have given me the confidence that I can successfully accomplish this. I'm a mechanic or auto technician as they like to call us during employment. I've watched a few other videos that rebuilders have put out, but yours was the best that I have seen. I'll be watching your other videos and recommending them to others.

I really appreciate the feedback, Anon One. Feel free to make suggestions and I'll see what I can do to accommodate.

@mytransmissions5390 if something comes to mind, I'll surely mention it. I'm telling everyone that I know that is interested in these subjects about your channel. I've certainly enjoyed it.

Thank you for the kind words, Gerald - and you're welcome!

You're welcome, Prochargedmopar - good luck with your build!

Glad it was helpful!

You're welcome, @craphittingthefan2360 - Glad you got it done and it's working well! 🍻

Likewise, Larry!

Thanks and you're welcome, Max!

You're welcome, Carl and thank you for the kind words!

Thanks! Will do!

Thank you, Michael! Appreciate the kind words...I will definitely film the next high performance C6 build that I receive into the shop.

You're welcome!

Thanks for watching, Devin! These transmissions aren't difficult to rebuild so that makes them a perfect learning platform for someone just starting out.

Thanks, larry!

Also I played around with the vacuum modulator but didn't make much of a difference if any

Thank you Leonardo! If it hesitates to grab gears and/or shifts only when you let off the gas once it's warmed to operating temp, that tells me there's leaks in the direct clutch circuit. This is usually caused by pinched sealing rings on the pump's stator where the sealing ring is allowing fluid to "blow by" the sealing rings and leak into the case instead of remaining in the 3rd gear hydraulic clutch circuit to fully apply/compress the direct clutch piston inside the direct drum. Consequently, there's not enough pressure to keep the clutch pack fully compressed hence your delayed engagement into third gear. Eventually, your direct clutch will burn up. Unfortunately, it's not a governor, valve body or modulator problem...Transmission will need to come back out and the sealing rings on the pump replaced as well as the direct clutch apply piston lip seals inspected (and replaced if needed) as they may also be at fault. Though when a lip seal is torn, typically you have a "neutral" condition in that gear, not a delayed upshift. With new sealing rings and if necessary, lip seals, it should be good to go once back in the vehicle, assuming nothing else gets messed up during the corrective work.

@@nickstransmissions that is the most professional answer I got, many thanks and perfect work again with your videos, I'll check your other videos too! Pinched/broken sealing rings or seals in the direct drum circuit is what causes reverse to "double clunk" I imagine, because the low/reverse clutches engage fine (first clunk) and then comes the delayed high/reverse clutches (second clunk) due to those bad seals, if I'm getting things right

Thanks again, Leonardo...please subscribe if you haven't already. I agree, the double clunk is the result of the two reverse elements applying out-of-time with respect to each other.

@@nickstransmissions Will sure do!

Damn...interesting indeed...Thanks for following up, Kevin! Hopefully you can get it back together and on the road soon.

Thanks, Gridlock! Appreciate the kind words...I usually buy them at my local hard parts supplier on eBay....Here's an example of a 'Deluxe' kit featuring Alto High Energy clutches: www.ebay.com/itm/223282081633?itmmeta=01HX853K0BXYR0PBFKZXKY2964&hash=item33fca62f61:g:3LIAAOSw9GhYcEAV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4FeNuElq4igWmo18p6qCwCMsckDL%2BqumhsWHDg0Eq%2FCiCgaf9Lt%2FBS8WZu28kTo7wFnfe0w%2FbQ6JNP7JYQoNOa696%2B0rBoUP%2B%2BuJCQcpj%2FeqXAZ1U2v4F9bmmT6v%2F1Xx0cNc2kUpozPsrsi7oPX%2FGnz%2BOmwOFQUiyXjwm3gvuDbjDa%2BxIOJBXxZPChYlJzvndAM6GHdEpi8Zp%2Fn47uUiHeK5g7WRJriV%2BS9eOjELujzia9itDsoThW4N0rJG%2Bt0ib%2BGTbh0Fi%2BDVGw9ewJ5d5U%2BVahReDqoYqmqU2qMbirD7%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR66wjoXqYw

Thanks, Jimmy! On a C6, the best places to introduce roller/torrington bearings is the gear train (planetary carrier assemblies) however they have to be machined to accept the bearings. If you know a good machinist who specializes in transmission related machine work, he can do it for you so you can install the bearings in place of thrust washers. Otherwise John Wood and Broader Performance sell the machined planetaries with the bearings ready to install.

Thanks, Andrew! Contact Whatever It Takes (WIT) Performance - they will sell you lip seal installation tools like the one you're inquiring about. If they won't sell directly, they will have their tools on eBay for purchase.

Shouldnt hurt anything. That one has been on the road driven mostly daily or at least 3x per week as far as I know and no complaints. You can pull it out if you want but if you're unable to due to time constraints, I wouldnt sweat it. If it comes back to me for any reason ill do a follow up vid on what i find.

Hi Leo, thanks for watching. Since your engine is out and presumably being rebuilt, it's an opportuine time to do the same to the transmission. Remove, tear it down and inspect it. The rebuild it with quality parts, upgrading it as needed for your intended usage and engine power. Replace the torque converter with a reman or new. Select a stall speed that matches your engine's cam grind, power, etc...

Hi Gerald, I use 130-140 inch lbs on all C6s...The manual calls for between 8-12 ft lbs so anywhere in that range is fine.

Check out Broader performance (broaderperformance.com/product/reverse-planet-gear-with-needle-bearings/)...I'd upgrade to a fully rollerized gear set w/Torrington bearings in place of the thrust washers. Also run the E4OD low roller clutch (most trans shops won't even sell the C6 original low roller assembly any longer). Here is a VRV conversion kit: www.accuratediesel.com/ford-6-9l-/-7-3l-idi-vacuum-regulator-valve-vrv-conversion-kit.html Not sure if you've seen it already but if not, should give you some ideas / places to start looking.

Yup. I get calls on those from time to time but refer them to reman companies. My bread and butter is what you see on the channel...GM, Ford and Dodge rear wheel drive. Occasionally take on a BMW/ZF or Toyota truck trans but it's rare.

Hi Jack, there's a few key differences between the Diesel and Gas versions of the C6, including: 1. Bell Housing bolt pattern - they are different and not interchangeable between the gas 351M/460 and 6.9/7.3 engines 2. Valve body - completely different shift calibration w/the diesel VB being set up for early, firm shifts 3. Governor - same, set up for earlier shifts 4. Servo/servo cover size - You should have an 'N' servo cover thus would replace with a new N servo piston 5. Direct drum - one more friction/steel compared to C6 transmissions for gas engines 6. Torque Converter - lowest stall offered on the C6; mounting studs are longer than converters intended for gas engines

Yes, you can run an E4OD as long as you also install a computer to control it. The E4OD is full electronic control so no means to run one mechanically, to my knowledge. Run a big, aluminum deep pan with plenty of extra capacity to aid in keeping temps down and if possible, have a custom low stall converter made as this will further reduce temps and increase low end pulling power for those heavier loads, esp in the summer months.

If you found the pump - direct drum thrust washer, I would not drive it... That washer governs front end play (i.e. the amount of longitudinal movement of the drums/gear train against the pump so if it's missing, your gear sets may come out of mesh, destroying them. Remove it, and if you haven't done so at all recently, I'd just rebuild it while it's out so you know it's good to go for a long time. Thank you for watching, brokengames!

Hi Sam, is it slipping only after sitting awhile (i.e. overnight) before being driven or does it slip all the time in first? Fluid level checked and good? Did you do a pressure test and air-check the forward drum?

Larry, simply acquire new one that’s an identical to the broken one. Transmission parts suppliers should have them sitting on the shelf for about $3-$5 or so…

I'll answer your second question first - NO...Monster isn't giving you anything that you can't acquire yourself a la carte...you're paying for a name and to have everything already gathered for you in one package... Are you looking to rebuild your C6 or just replace the pump O-ring? Transstar for factory replacement level Cal Kits (filter, paper/rubber, pump bushing/clutch module/vacuum modulator/band). High performance friction modules is available from Raybestos, Borg Warner and/or Alto. You will also want to purchase a new servo piston (check your servo cover's letter designation as that will inform which servo you need). Also replace the intermediate sprag and low roller one way clutch as well as all bushings...Basically follow my overview in Part 1. eBay has many different all-in-one kits that have good clutches for most applications (factory and high performance/heavy duty) and everything else you need to overhaul the trans.

GM, Larry - contact Transstar tomorrow and they should be able to help you. Otherwise, check w/your local transmission hard parts supplier(s).

Hi Steve, there shouldn’t be a thrust washer on the sun shell-planetary side, I believe I updated the description as to the incorrect procedure shown on my part. You should be ok once you remove that extra thrust washer

Don't recall where it came from exactly as I source my kits from a variety of places, including my local transmission parts supply house, ebay, dealerships, specialty aftermarket web-based sites, etc....Ebay has decent kits (they are usually referred to as 'Deluxe kits') that come with pretty much everything you'd need including steel modules and the kits I most often use have the Alto high energy frictions which are a great all-around performance option for pretty much every transmission out there. Thank you for watching.

Hi Gerald, thank you for the kind words. I'm out West and would be happy to take on the work if you're in SoCal, AZ, southern NV or UT...But I don't ship transmissions given the cost/hassle so if you're in another part of the country, I wouldn't be able to help...

With 4 instead of 5 the circlip will fit. What do you think

Hey Larry, were you able to figure out the situation w/your drum?

Lube guard assembly goo.

Hi Trevar, thank you for watching..I'll be setting up some arrangements with suppliers to provide a portal or 'influencer page' where folks can buy parts, kits, supplies and tools but for now I'd check out the 'Deluxe Rebuild kits' on eBay as they usually have most, if not all, the soft parts you will need to overhaul the unit. I often buy them there...Here's an example for a 76+ C6: www.ebay.com/itm/223282081633?itmmeta=01HX853K0BXYR0PBFKZXKY2964&hash=item33fca62f61:g:3LIAAOSw9GhYcEAV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4FeNuElq4igWmo18p6qCwCMsckDL%2BqumhsWHDg0Eq%2FCiCgaf9Lt%2FBS8WZu28kTo7wFnfe0w%2FbQ6JNP7JYQoNOa696%2B0rBoUP%2B%2BuJCQcpj%2FeqXAZ1U2v4F9bmmT6v%2F1Xx0cNc2kUpozPsrsi7oPX%2FGnz%2BOmwOFQUiyXjwm3gvuDbjDa%2BxIOJBXxZPChYlJzvndAM6GHdEpi8Zp%2Fn47uUiHeK5g7WRJriV%2BS9eOjELujzia9itDsoThW4N0rJG%2Bt0ib%2BGTbh0Fi%2BDVGw9ewJ5d5U%2BVahReDqoYqmqU2qMbirD7%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR66wjoXqYw

@nickstransmissions Wow awesome thank you! I have this issue that the output shaft spins through all gears but won't spin the opposite direction in reverse or neutral so I figured I'd just rebuild the unit and call it good. Thank you!

Your method is what a lot of folks use and it works...I'll use a small amount of heat w/a propane torch along with picks on the occasions where that seal is hardened though many times it will just break and ill fish the pieces out w/a pick.

awesome thanks again for your input Nick! I am having a blast watching your videos and putting it back together @@nickstransmissions

Thank you, Kevin. Type F (all other things equal) will produce slightly firmer shifts compared to DexIII (DexMerc). MerconV is the follow-on formulation to Mercon III and is fine f or use in anything calling for 'Mercon' Here's some more info put out by Motorcraft (Ford) on MercV: www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/our-products/chemicals-and-lubricants/transmission-fluid/mercon-v-automatic-transmission-and-power-steering-fluids.html

thanks so much for the quick reply and for the great info, knowlege and helpful link@@nickstransmissions

You're welcome, Kevin and thank you for watching! Please subscribe if you haven't already so you'll be notified when I post more C6 videos (some are coming in the near future).

Subscribed! these videos are fantastic@@nickstransmissions

Thank you, Kevin!

Hey Kevin, you'll laugh at this one but I actually soak all my small parts and bolts in used brake cleaner...When I wash those small parts, I spray them down in break cleaner while they are in a bucket or old transmission plan...Once the parts are clean and on the assembly bench, I pour the residual fluid into bottles which I then re-use to soak the next batch of bolts...Hot tank and pressure washer is used on the case and big stuff (except planetary carrier assemblies - I just thoroughly wipe them down). I may do a video on this as every once in a while I get questions about parts cleaning and prep.

thank you very much!@@nickstransmissions

You're welcome, Kevin!

Hi Fomoco, great question...In case you haven't seen it yet, I shot a video to explain why I don't do it along with my arguments against soaking before installation. Here's the vid: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2j6XYCblG5I.html

@@nickstransmissions fair enough, I can understand your thought process, thanks for the explanation.

Hi Steve…The rust shouldn’t be a problem unless the spring is falling apart (you will have to use your judgment based on what you see). If you can get the springs out and they are the same (no reason to believe they wouldn’t be) then yes go ahead and swap. Ive never had to do that so can’t say how easy or difficult it is. Check your gears-pump body clearances on the replacement body to make sure they are within spec. Purchase an S servo bonded steel and rubber piston to go with your S cover (or upgrade to a billet servo assembly if the application is HD or high performance.

@@nickstransmissions ok thanks so much for responding. I will update you if i do replace it let you know I I did it. Thanks again

@@stevejohnson3853 you’re welcome, steve.

Hi Jonathan, it should be fine but if you plan on hauling any half-way heavy loads, I'd prob upgrade the servo assembly....you don't need to make that decision now, just see how things go w/the N servo and go from there.

@@nickstransmissions Thanks man! On a side note, you should be getting paid by precision international overhaul kits! They don’t come w labels for the seals, and when you google precision overhaul instructions, your vids just pop up.

You're welcome, man! And yes, wish they would send me my earnings, haha!

Hi Michael, thank you for watching. Sounds like a sweet ride...Anyone who's knowledgeable about the C6 can install all the requisite part and perform the procedures required for your vehicle's application, needs and intended usage pattern. If you're located in the desert southwest, I may be an option for you. Otherwise, check with transmission builders in your local area. Alternatively you can look at ATS, BTS or other popular nationwide companies that specialize in performance transmissions, they should be able to help you out.

Having a hard time finding someone I can trust. I'm in Kingman Arizona

Please shoot me a direct message on gmt400.com. My user name is NickTransmissions.

Yep, if the drainback valve check ball in the stator gets stuck it will prevent cooler flow. This usually happens to pumps/transmissions left outside exposed to moisture and the ball rust-bonds to the bore…Normally fluid pressure opens up the valve by pushing the ball against the spring and plug. There isn’t a way to check it other than removal however some builders simply take out the ball/spring and reinstall/stake the bore plug. Hope this helps.

Can I leave out the ball/ spring, just put the plug in and stake it ? Thanks for your help, your video’s on the c6 are the best I’ve viewed.

Unless you have reason to believe its rusted and/or stuck, id keep it but it’s up to you.

Hi John, that clearance should be fine but if you're real concerned you can always have .008-.010 machined off the backing plate. How many clutch plates are in your forward drum?

@@nickstransmissions That's good to know! I got four plates in. Initially got four Raybestos frictions that were each 0.081 thick which caused the snap ring to bind with zero play. Unfortunately I couldn't find any selective snaprings thin enough on Ebay or in my country, so I ordered two Alto frictions of 0.061 to replace two of the Raybetos ones. Interestingly, I just tried measuring with a feeler gauge, and with that I measured 0.034 inches, which would be in spec in both cases. At 0.035 I'd have to force the gauge and At 0.037 I couldn't fit the gauge anymore. As always, thank you very much for your answers.

Yep, that should work...put the Alto frictions as the top two in the drum then put the Raybestos frictions underneath. That will help keep the Alto's cool as it's always a little cooler toward the top and a bit warmer down by the piston. This is true of all drums, regardless of unit unless the drum has some designed cooling mechanism for its lower half.

​@@nickstransmissions Thanks for that tip! I was wondering if I should alternate them. I'll keep the thin ones on top then. Btw, the new steels that I got all have a tiny nook cut from one of the teeth. Do you know what that's for and if it needs any alignment?

Some steels have little notches cut in them; direct clutch steels for 4L80Es come to mind...Whenever I have those, the OCD sometime kicks in and I align them all to the same lug in the drum but it's not critical. Main thing is ensuring nothing is hanging up or dragging when you go to air test the apply in the drum. That and clearance, which looks like you got figured out.

Hi, you're correct - I mention this in the description as well which is why I ask folks to read it so they are aware). Thank you for watching.

The trans won’t upshift into third when in drive? Or it does but feels like its in neutral?

@@nickstransmissions it won’t shift to 3rd at all regardless how high engine rpm it stays on 2nd

@@nickstransmissions 1-2 and reverse are perfectly fine and I played with modulator adjustments with no success

Gotcha...Was this trans recently serviced / rebuilt or did you just suddenly lose 2-3 upshift after having it work fine for a prolonged period of time? Can you manually upshift into third at all? The problem is likely to be either governor (not as likely since your 1-2 shift seems fine) or stuck 2-3 shift valve in the valve body. Drop the valve body, separate it from the channel plate and separator plate then use a flat blade screw driver to move the valves to see if anything is either sticking, binding or otherwise not moving freely. If you end up having to disassemble the valve body, you can watch my C6 valve body videos for guidance...Here's the assembly video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mylida8EBfk.html

@@nickstransmissions most amazing reply I got so far from all the youtubers!!! Much appreciate this very crucial information! The transmission only had fluids / filter replaced about 6 months ago and haven’t noticed anything unusual all I remember engine was bit overheating couple times making me replace fun clutch than I think after around that time I lost the 3rd gear (perhaps engine overheating had something to do with it etc) I will carefully follow your recommendation very very grateful!!! 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

Hi John, Here are my responses: 1. Removing and reinstalling the same bushing once usually doesn't compromise it but if it felt notably easier to fit the second time around, I'd just install a new one. They're cheap and plus you can use some red Loctite on the second one to help keep it in place. Also, make sure it's orientated the correct way as pump body bushing in most Ford transmissions, including the C6, are directional. The open side of the oil groove should face inward, toward the pump cover. See 20:27 in Pt1 for reference if you haven't already. 2. You can attempt to re-test the body on the converter journal once you replace the bushing w/ a new one but keep in mind, the pump, once installed in the trans and trans bolted up to the engine, is not going to bottom out on the converter - there will be a small gap between converter base and front of the pump body. I would assemble the pump completely then check just to be sure. A hasty check w/the pump body itself doesn't hurt but it won't give you a complete verdict like a fully assembled pump will. I'll do it just as a quick check by sliding the pump down on the journal to about 1/4 above where the journal meets the converter body to be certain the bushing is ok before I move to install the seal but check again once the pump's assembled. 3. Install a new pump seal - carefully check the inner seal bore for any irregularities. If some are observed, put a thin layer of RTV/sealant on the inner diameter where any irregularities are and then install the seal.

@@nickstransmissions I got the new bushing and seal installed with no issues this time. Thanks for the recommendation! I've installed the rest of the bushings as well, and although most went in fine, I ran into some problems for which I want to ask some more questions if you don't mind. 1. Can you tell what brand your bushing puller is? I've been having a very difficult time getting the two bushings removed from the stator support. Every single bushing/bearing puller being sold has a tapered hook on its adapters whereas your adapters seem to have a 90 degree hook that can properly latch behind the bushing. No matter what I try, the tapered end causes the adapter to pull itself inside the bushing, tearing apart the bottom surface. I've hammered for hours with no movement whatsoever using different pullers, whereas you could remove these with little to no effort. 2. Because of my struggles with the puller, I tried removing them by punching them in with a screwdriver. This went fine on the tail end, but the front bore got scratched up from it. I want to post a picture, but youtube removed my last comment. Its imgur link is a/K7eaH6m If you can view the image, do you think this stator is still salvageable, or have I totalled it? When I tried pressing in the new bushing I felt the same resistance like I did with all the others. 3. With a few bushings it appears that the edge where the press dye sat on has collapsed ever so slightly inward. So even though they pressed in just fine, once I spun the axle within, it didn't feel right to me opposed to other bushings that spun more freely. I could also see immediate wear at the copper coating near the top edge from rubbing the axle. Have you ever had this happen, and do you know how I can best prevent this?

Hi John, you can use sandpaper (400 then 800 grit) to clearance the bushings if they fit a bit tight (very common on many of these older units as the factory bushings are long out of production and aftermarket bushings can sometimes be a bit too thick) or if there is a bit of a lip on the bushing. Unless you gouged out the equivalent of the Grand Canyon or Marianas trench in the stator bushing area, a little sandpaper or circular metal file should clean it up fine. You don't want any burrs sticking out that will press against the new bushing, bowing it inwards. The puller is a Kent Moore tool - J45548. I am not sure of the thread pitch but it resembles more of a fine pitch vs a coarse one so you'll need to match it with a slide hammer w/the correct pitch.

@@nickstransmissions Thank you so much for the information. Regarding the damage it seems that I only removed those microscopic ridges from the machining of the bore, so that is a huge relief. With sanding down the bushings to allow the clearance, assuming you mean the inside, wouldn't it be a problem if that copper layer was sanded away? And thanks a lot for sharing the tool. This definitely looks a lot more suitable.

You're welcome and there's no problem with sanding bushings and there's no copper - it's all babbit material and there's more of it than it would seem at first glance. Sand w/400 or 600 grit until you can just about spin the input shaft freely and then stop and grab 800 or 1000 git to finish it off... ETA: Here's my TH400 bushing video that shows me clearance the bushings using sand paper. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gZMWbFwt9jo.html

I used a bushing driver for the front seal on the pump body. Perhaps you’re referring to the lip seal installation tool? That’s the only thing i can think of that’s knife-like in the video. If so, you can get those on Amazon or eBay for a few buck. If that’s not what you’re referring to, let me know the time stamp you see the tool and ill take a look.

@My Transmissions yes, it's the knife like in the video. I've searched everywhere but can't find the name for that tool. That tool is also shown in the C6 overhaul book but with a yellow handle. They call it a lip seal tool but that doesn't get any results that resemble the pics in the book or your video. Thank you for being so patient.

Reach out to “wittrans” on ebay. They should have some available.

@@nickstransmissions thank you

Hi Chris, your backing (top) plate's orientation shouldn't matter at all as they are the same regardless of orientation, though I always install it the same way it came out (just a habit). Do you still have the old clutch pack? What is the thickness of your backing plate? If you still have the old frictions and steels, measure the thickness of each then compare to your new frictions and steels...Most C6's have 3 clutch-direct drums from the factory; the heavier duty/larger displacement applications had four but they were decidedly less common. I'm wondering if you had either an aftermarket max pack of some sort or perhaps your backing plate was machined to some extent but these are guesses until more info is shared. Also, there are different thicknesses of clutch pack snap ring so if you're a bit tight you'll need to swap to a thinner snap ring...I cover forward and direct clutch pack clearances here in this newer video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dCnj6gy1nDY.html

My top plate is .2960 inches thick but only one side is flat. The other side is concaved or beveled as if to make room for the snap ring. If I install it with that side up, it will fit with 4 clutches and snap ring. Is that what I should do? Unfortunately, I can't remember what side was up when I disassembled this portion.

Ah, found the issue...Someone put a forward clutch drum apply plate in the direct drum, using it to squeeze in an extra friction and steel plate, turning a three-clutch direct drum into a four-clutch drum. It's a popular mod but not my favorite as I have read and heard about that plate cracking/breaking under even modest power when used as a backing plate in the direct clutch...if you're not putting out a ton of power and use your vehicle as more of a daily driver you can put it back in but I might recommend buying another backing plate for your direct clutch instead, especially if there is a lot of slip marks, bluing, etc on that apply plate. I discuss this mod in my C6 tear down and inspection video and may do a separate video on it so folks recognize it when they see it, if they're new to the C6.

Oh wow. I wonder if it was too much because I do have some bluing on the original plates. This truck would hardly move unless I was turning high rpms. I wonder if that's why it was failing. This is in a barn find truck that had been sitting for a few years. The story was the guy rebuilt everything and then went to drive it, and something failed, so he gave up and sold it.

Yea who knows what kind of shit the previous owner has done, lol. But this is a good learning experience for you, it's not every day something like that is seen on tear down. I would purchase a factory good-used direct clutch backing plate, forward clutch backing plate (they're the same plate) and perhaps another apply plate for your forward drum, if the current one is heavily blued. I would also measure and write down the thicknesses of the clutch snap rings and maybe grab one or two different thickness snap rings in case you need them to meet clearance.

Hi Johnathan, There's two - one for the outboard side of the governor support and the other at the front-facing side of the rear ring gear.

@@nickstransmissions any idea where to get em… I’ve searched everywhere

I periodically go to junkyards and harvest parts I need that aren't commonly available elsewhere...That may be your best option.

I’m just gonna start making them myself… that way when some else asks you this same question, you’ll be able to say, “Oh hey, I actually know a guy!” 🤣

Yeah, the rear was in decent shape, and the front I was finally just able to find on line.

5 will not work.

@@nickstransmissions nick, no sir I bought a transmission rebuild kit from your supply wrarhouse...warehouse.... A stock c6 kit, I am talking about the reverse drum, it take 4 new steels a clutch plate, but not 5?

The low reverse clutch takes 5 frictions and 5 steels and they spline onto the outside of the low reverse hub. The high reverse drum (aka direct drum) takes either four or five frictions. Here's a five-clutch drum on ebay as an example: www.ebay.com/itm/203617578453?epid=1711199951&hash=item2f688dadd5:g:6ygAAOSwykNiui6Q&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4PynV%2FjYzUJNFd5XPE6eTtv2st7AZ8vw0JHels0YLy6nGhbvahIKModjYRi8zi0oWZ7N7lQp%2BXOPsZsTd0Jiw7%2BrJ9sCFgsmy4UIKTsbRrwqdcqt9XcEPWDmUwRz%2FeT%2BuQNk857AcBzKvDvDQqRcjl0JvqWkKsyHf%2BLqQViKIa0CtOnVN920f2ueQ4X5YUZay1Wcy6gQKAa0yhtGVzt9fqkSE%2BKYixqbLiXc%2FlEI1eD1HRWTA9stlvQTkPqh4iPtkaLK0EOzxIPReGZBkifywZaifxxtRLHFaCmqhSBxNNFp%7Ctkp%3ABFBMrpThgapi

Also, I don't have a supply warehouse; perhaps you bought from Transstar? That's where I usually refer folks to when asked about rebuild kit and parts sourcing.

@@nickstransmissions yes sir I have THAT HUB .

Thanks, Greg....I made an update to the description.

Hi, yes you're correct Fomoco - there's no thrust washer in that location (see description) though it doesn't hurt anything if you do install it by accident. Thank you for watching!

I get most kits locally or on ebay and individual performance parts from a variety of places depending on the unit.

@@nickstransmissions what brand/manufacturer of kits are you using? Also, where can I obtain the small adjustable bushing puller you used? Thanks 😊

Transstar for all factory-level kits including complete bushing kits. Borg warner, exedy, alto and raybestos for clutchs and steels. I get most of my tools on ebay. Ill see what puller you’re referring to and put the tool ID in another reply so you can search ebay or amazon for it.

The puller is a kent moore J-45548 “bushing puller”. The slide hammer is an Old Forge 2520… I will do a video on special transmission tools that can be used on multiple makes and models so folks have all that info in one place. There’s several of the pullers on ebay as of this reply.

Thank you!

No worries, larry.

If you watch PT2 of the C6 rebuild, I install the low reverse clutch pack starting at 22:05 where the unit I was working on took five frictions and steels. I wonder if you have the incorrect hub/drum or if you have the drum seated too far rearward in the case (it can move a bit longitudinally). PT2: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WI-1OeTb-So.html

Lol thanks but the moment you take it out of the packaging and use it once it looks like that...several people have volunteered to do the same and if i took you all up on your offers id have more paint brushes in stock than Sherwin Williams.

more brushes than sherwim williams just thought i would throw that out there lol love the videos i will stay away from big letters@@nickstransmissions

All good man. I could sell those brushes and buy some more interesting transmissions or purchase more tools haha! Thanks for watching, Stingray!

you can never have enough tools@@nickstransmissions