I was a mechanic in New Zealand. A British car manufacturer called Rover used electric fuel pumps in their cars & it was located at the rear of the car. The pump sat inside of the trunk inside it's own reinforced compartment & was not located inside the fuel tank. This made servicing so much easier & would cost much less for the motorist to replace. Why this design was not widely copied I have no idea. You did not have to drop the darned fuel tank to replace the pump. It was easy & accessible & could be replaced easily within an hour!😊
Avoid unplugging the wire harness. Remove whole assembly out of the tank and just replace the pump while its still connected. Just a couple of hose clamps and your done. No need to remove fuel lines or wiring. Took me 20 minutes. Nice video.
@Andre Jones ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IMaJbufNVrY.html this video may help. I used a ratchet strap to hold the exhaust pipe over to get the bolts off. My gasket fell apart so may want to order a gasket before doing fix.i was able to get the matching pump feom my local advance for like $60. Probably get a pump for half that from rock auto if you can wait.
Great Video! Just bought a 99 Grand Marquis for my daughter and was told it need a fuel pump. I did all the normal checks to make sure the pump was the problem and just put in the new pump after watching this video. Excellent camera work and narration. I'm a Chevy guy through and through and swore I'd never own a Ford but this was an easy fix on a nice old car. Thanks for the help!
Thank you very much for your video. I reviewed it twice before turning any wrenches. The only problem that I ran into was the exhaust. Some previous owner welded the hanger bolts to prevent them from backing out. I only needed to move the exhaust 1" to facilitate the removal and install. I used a wratchet strap around the exhaust pipe and over the top and bottom of the exposed rear passenger brake drum. Tightened, tested, tightened tested, tightened... worked like a charm. 😊
I've looked at ALL the Crown Vic, Town Car, Grand Marquis fuel-pump-replacement procedures I could find on RU-vid - this is by far the BEST! Looks like this will be perfectly applicable to my 2003 Town Car. Your explanation is very clear, very easy to follow and the video is very well presented. Many thanks - Peter Mullaney
Did mine today after watching your video yesterday. Had been putting it off, didn't want to drop the tank. Hardest thing was the plug on the top of the tank. 2 hours and 45 minutes including the fuel filter. Thanks again for a Great Video.
Anthony Bell For me it was a humming or a buzzing sound at first from the trunk area. Shortly after that it wouldn't start so I crawled under the car and hit the pump with a mallet. Drove it home, shut it off and it wouldn't start again. So I replaced the pump and it's been fine ever since. Good luck.
The plug on top of tank I ended up putting an ice pick into side hole angling it up to get it to ride above tab and a huge long screwdriver on the end of connector forcing it back at the same time stabbing ice pick into it and it finally released, this was like over 2 hours trying with other tools you would have thought should have done the job. Now the top plug didn't take all that long but I ran out of daylight trying to figure out how to pull plug connector past that metal brace and sheet metal
9:21 yeah just cut the wires, the new assembly come with wires. This is the best video you’re gonna fund I WOULD RECOMMEND YOU GET THE NEW ASSEMBLY BEFORE YOU START REMOVING THE OLD ONE THAT WAY YOU KNOW HOW TO DISCONNECT THOSE CONNECTORS 🤙🏿
Kudos to you sir for not being a hack and splicing the wires to the tank pressure solenoid with butt connectors and electrical tape like most of the hacks on here. I am redoing my Towncar because of poor work practices.
Thanks bro, this was the best fix I found so far. I think my fuel pump died on my Town Car (which is the same setup). I have to check 2 more thing (fuel pressure and bad connections) before I commit to saying the fuel pump is bad.
Great video. Especially the technical part of disconnecting a plug. Most gloss over the tab locations, and with my limited eyesight, it is very frustrating. Well done.
You should compare the old pump float arm position with the new one. Float should end its bottom travel above the intake sock, that way your gauge needle will point to E before your tank goes dry.
thank you! watching your video before doing this repair at work will help me complete it a little quicker and less frustrating. I was surprised at the relatively simple design...for a change 😊 (no dropping of tank, wahoo)
I assume that this will be the same procedure on my 2009 PI Crown Vic. Lots of horror stories out there about having to drop the tank. You did a great job, and a great job of filming it too. Thanks.
LOL... I've been in Utah for the last three years all my tools are stuck in storage in Kentucky. I ran my 02 CV out of gas once and ever since it's had a putter putter idle. Since I don't have my tools, I took the the CV to a shop just to have the fuel filter changed $75.00 !!! I'm going to have to start acquiring tools again that fuel pump assembly looks too easy to do on my own. Thanks for posting !
They charged you 75 bucks for a fuel filter change? Bro, I’m sorry to tell you, but I bought a filter for 10 dollars and did it in 5 minutes in the autozone parking lot with just a screwdriver.
Excellent !! Your video was a great help in getting a new fuel pump into my '04 Crown Vic. Thanks!! Made a custom connector tool from a nail and a file after a few other tools didn't work. That was the worst part of the whole process..
Very useful video, I studied it closely before I did mine. Local shop wanted $1100 for this job! I put a Carter pump ($90) in my 2011 Police Interceptor; at $300+ for the Motorcraft part, I reckoned it was worth a try. Had to change the angle of the bend in the "arm" a bit to get the "base plate" to settle flush to the tank - easily done once I realized what the problem was. Car fired right up. Many thanks to the 50sKid, who actually looks more like a 70sKid - but who's counting?
I just want you all to know that you should check for power and ground at the fuel pump connector or as close as you can to it, before you go through the hassles to change the fuel pump. Some people may have been changing good fuel pumps only because the connector wasn't making good contact, but once you disconnected and reconnected, you made good contact again and fixed it. there is also a harness connector up near the firewall that can make bad contact.. So yea you definitely want to be sure the fuel pump is getting electricity and not functioning before you start doing all this.
also a lot of people have the misconception that the inertia switch feeds power to the fuel pump. it does not. it goes back to the controlling of the relay that feeds the fuel pump. your 30 pin on your fuel pump relay should be hot. You should then be able to put 12V into the 87 pin on the relay with a test light and your fuel pump should come on. If not try to jiggle the harnesses down below the fuse box near the firewal and see if that test light will come on. If so that connector there might need some work. if not, you need to check for power and ground at your fuel pump before changing it.
Think that might be my problem mine wasn't starting just cranking changed the fuel pump and driver side fuel module still not working bout to try and figure it out this weekend and my relay and fuses seem ok driving me nuts!2004 crown Victoria base
5 лет назад
Even if the fuel pump is working perfectly fine, but your car has a whopping 400,000+ miles on it, then it would be a good idea to just change it anyways!
I did get the plug over the tank unplugged. It wasn't that hard to do once you know where the release tab is on the connector. But on my car there really was no way to get that connector out from between the trunk and the tank without dropping the tank. So, I ended up cutting the 3 wires and putting them back together with some butt connectors. I just painted them with liquid electrical tape or some silicone caulk to keep water from getting into the butt connectors. It's really the easiest way. I was really happy that I didn't have to drop the tank. I had just a little over a 1/4 tank of gas in the tank and I didn't have to drain it. I couldn't even feel the gas below the port hole when I stuck my fingers in there. I'd venture to say that anything under 3/8 of a tank of gas and you'll probably won't have to worry about draining it out to do it. I just replaced the pump on the module because it was cheaper and the car has 175,000 miles on it. The pump alone is only about $60. It's just a work crasher for me. It's an 01 crown vic. Thanks for the video, it was very helpful.
after paying $1200. to have fuel pump on h3 replaced ,,an older gentleman suggested to never let gas tank get below 1/4 tank as to keep fuel pump lubricated
I run/an ALL my cars on 1/4 tank or BELOW for years, and I've never needed a fuel pump. And this is with 30+ cars. Anybody that knows me, knows my low fuel light is ALWAYS ON, 😂
50skid this video did help me to find out how to replace my fuel pump on my 2004 grand marquis, you make it look like is very easy thank you again, I got plans for my car very soon. Also I would like to do the transmission fully rebuilt and the air conditioner also it doesn't work but surely I need my air conditioner as soon as possible and then my fuel pump then my transmission full rebuild heavy duty
One trick I do when pulling anything dripping fuel is to cap the line opening with a latex glove and twist it, zip tie it or tape it together if you have to. You can fit the fuel filter in a glove also and cover both ends so it doesn't drip all over you. But the fuel lines still will still drip a little so you have to cap them too if you want no drips at all.
Very realistic depiction of a nightmare job that nobody looks forward to. Thanks! Are you a minister? Is that how you keep your vocabulary in check during this torture? Excellent video, thank you very much.
Another great video. I am presently facing this with my 2003 G.Marquis. with ONLY 42k miles ! Car died, got towed home and it coded P1237. I have 12v present at FPDM. Tried bypassing the FPDM but still no start. No continuity through pump. My decision now is whether replace entire assembly or just the pump.
I bought 3 different tools to get gas lines off to no avail (2000 gran marquis). Lucky for me I unscrewed the bolts (7mm), turned the plate 90 deg. and took it out. Replaced the pump and filter with it swinging under the car & put her back in. Ford fuel lines are a bugger.
How the hell do I get the connector above the tank apart? If it was on a lift, I could get both hands in there and it would be easy. Instead, I'm laying on my back propping up with one arm and trying to get it disconnected with the other. It's not working. The one accessed through the wheel well was easy, I just loosened the stap nuts enough so the tank would drop down and I got my finger on the release tab. That one took about 5 minutes total. It's the other one (tank power I believe) that is giving me a hard time. Any tips would be appreciated.
i just ran into this problem with my 2004 grand marquis. Car ran and drove great for 10+ years we had it. My mom goes to drive it one day and wrecks the front end. i end up repairing it with new parts. After repair of course i took it on a test drive to make sure nothing was bent alignment wise. everything operating smoothly. except! a few days later i go to start the car and the cars battery was dead. jumped it > started it> let it run for 30 minutes or so to let battery recharge > turn car off > No start on next attempt...(then car sat for a month untouched) >> took battery and alternator off> got both tested and found that the battery was trash > Replaced alternator for good measure and just bought a new battery today. only to find out that my car now has a new battery, alternator and cranks strongly. EXCEPT! the car will not actually START and RUN. ((the car started and ran while hooked up to jumper cables less than 2 months ago with a bad battery , and hasn't been driven or started since.)) sooooo I checked the red " Emergency fuel pump cutoff " button located in the trunk. its good, Then tested relays> good... Then a neighbor mentioned that there was a pressurized fuel line under the hood near the the injectors. sort of like the AC line under your hood that has that screw on cap with a nozzle attachment where you fill your Freon. couldn't be sure this is true. well we impressed the stem inside and no fuel came out. Which tells me there's no fuel pressure in the lines at all. Correct me if im wrong, so with all of this being said, my questions are *What are the chances that my fuel pump spontaneously burnt up in the middle of those tests, jump starts, and part replacements? *Does the security features/ Anti-Theft on the car disable anything relative to my fuel system? What are the chances my key chip lost programming ? could this be the issue? * Is it safe to assume my fuel pump just happen to burn up amid all the jumps starts, time sitting, and so on? If it is 100% fuel pump failure and i have to replace it, could you touch up on explaining those wires that he cut. I see one is easy to access and he didnt cut that 1 wire bundle, but as for the OTHER bundle of wire with black clip on the end(the longer strand), does that simply plug into a clip on top of the gas tank? i see that some people are having to solder the old wires to a new harness? i dont see what this guy did with that longer strand of wires. i dont have a diagram either
Check the fuel pressure with a scanning tool. With ignition in the "On" position there might be up to 80psi in the line. You might get a leak on the cross over tubing or blow out a rail off the fuel injector. You can't miss that gasoline smell entering the cab from under the hood later.
@@waimeagavin808 no. Panther platform uses return less fuel system. At least that's what they call it at Ford. The first place I would look for a gas leak is in top of the motor where the fuel rail is. That's where I found mine on 06 Grand Marquis 4.6l
Why this video, i waited a whole week for the first engine startup of your e46 :( All your videos are great, keep it that way :) Best regards from Bosnia :)
Excellent vid! Many thanks! But i do have one question. Did you put the jack stands under the frame or on the axle? Its unclear in the video...unless i missed something
your the man! that clip on top of the fuel tank was crazy hard i almost gave up but i got it off idk how i got it off but i did lol thanks for ur video i couldnt of done the job with out it
50sKid, what brand parts and part numbers did you use for the fuel pump assembly and the fuel filter? I think this would help tremendously since I do not want to wind up doing this twice. Thank you.
What year is this CV? My plug is not the same as yours. It doesn’t have the little hole to put the metal pick in and pull. I think I screwed it up. Please help!
I have a 2003 crown Vic that’s been sitting for a good min maybe a year or 2 and I won’t start but you can feel it trying to start what do you think the problem could be? The fuel pump or fuel filter?
You probably fixed it already but your rear plastic clip on the fuel filter is only in on one side,I find you better buy the correct plastic clips to have because you may break a old clip and some filters dont come with new clips, also your car single exhaust,duel exhaust makes it more difficult but it can be done Thanks
Cleanest undercarriage in the universe bro!!..after you break away the top pressure switch wire in a quick connect closer to the cluster for easier rnr
i just ran into this problem with my 2004 grand marquis. Car ran and drove great for 10+ years we had it. My mom goes to drive it one day and wrecks the front end. i end up repairing it with new parts. After repair of course i took it on a test drive to make sure nothing was bent alignment wise. everything operating smoothly. except! a few days later i go to start the car and the cars battery was dead. jumped it > started it> let it run for 30 minutes or so to let battery recharge > turn car off > No start on next attempt...(then car sat for a month untouched) >> took battery and alternator off> got both tested and found that the battery was trash > Replaced alternator for good measure and just bought a new battery today. only to find out that my car now has a new battery, alternator and cranks strongly. EXCEPT! the car will not actually START and RUN. ((the car started and ran while hooked up to jumper cables less than 2 months ago with a bad battery , and hasn't been driven or started since.)) sooooo I checked the red " Emergency fuel pump cutoff " button located in the trunk. its good, Then tested relays> good... Then a neighbor mentioned that there was a pressurized fuel line under the hood near the the injectors. sort of like the AC line under your hood that has that screw on cap with a nozzle attachment where you fill your Freon. couldn't be sure this is true. well we impressed the stem inside and no fuel came out. Which tells me there's no fuel pressure in the lines at all. I also listen for that initial fuel pump buzz when it primes with the key on ACC or ON, i hear nothing. Correct me if im wrong, so with all of this being said, my questions are *What are the chances that my fuel pump spontaneously burnt up in the middle of those tests, jump starts, and part replacements? *Does the security features/ Anti-Theft on the car disable anything relative to my fuel system? What are the chances my key chip lost programming ? could this be the issue? * Is it safe to assume my fuel pump just happen to burn up amid all the jumps starts, time sitting, and so on? If it is 100% fuel pump failure and i have to replace it, could you touch up on explaining those wires that he cut. I see one is easy to access and he didnt cut that 1 wire bundle, but as for the OTHER bundle of wire with black clip on the end(the longer strand), does that simply plug into a clip on top of the gas tank? i see that some people are having to solder the old wires to a new harness? i dont see what this guy did with that longer strand of wires. i dont have a diagram either The car cranks and turns strongly and consistantly. just dont get a start at all.
I been try to used all kind of tools to take the thing off where the tire at off what kind of tool I need to take that off that is the hardis part I can push down on it
They made the pipe bend that way incase it fell from the washers its supended with and came off it would not go in or pinned by the spring or fall off to the floor either....its the best they could do, id rather have short piped with one caltalitic converter each side short pipe out the rear of front tire
On Ford's you need the number on top of the sending unit to order it from a dealer. That means dropping the tank just to get the stupid number. You can't just go there and tell them your car is a so and so Ford and they order the right one. There could be 6 different units for that year and make.
