I think I'd drill out the lever hole to make it round again and then press in a bronze bushing to make it like new again. Or just adding a spring to keep tension on the lever may be enough to stop the rattling. I know these aren't a "dealer" fix but for an owner on a budget it would save alot of money.
That’s why I went with aftermarket OEM parts are junk, they have the aftermarket turbo kits for the Focus ST , I haven’t had a problem besides falling in love with the turbo flutter and Blow Off sound and cold air intake.
Just had ours done over Thanksgiving week. Covered by Ford's CPO warranty. Here we are on January 10th and it is now making the same noise. Our Explorer has been in service for loads of stuff to include front engine cover seal, faulty seat belt buckle, defective hood paint, pealing adhesive interior door panel leather, recalled rear-end toe links, recalled emissions safety issue, dual-zone A/C blend door actuator fail, wheel hub bearing fail and finally a full turbo replacement Thanksgiving week. I hope they Lemon it - I'm done with Ford.
How was the bearing in the old one bc at the beginning it kinda sounded like it was just starting to go as well......i know that you said they aren't usually an issue over all but I'm wounding about that unit??
@Martin Herndon possibly the owner didnt follow very strict maintenance standards an more wear within turbo!? The Ford EcoBoost motors gen1 & gen2 are reaching high mis w/orig turbos!
In my experience turbos seem to last 100-150k however if I also had to replace the CAT, I’d definitely try to have that arm bushed and see if I could squeeze another 50k out of it.
Actually it's a lost cause from the start turbocharged engines running more than 4-6lbs of boost are factually less efficient all the time because they have to have a lower compression ratio in order to prevent hotspots from forming on the piston and causing detination "knock" If you're not familiar with what knock is it's when the fuel ignites before top dead center in other words at the wrong time and it's really really bad. If your goal is fuel economy a naturally aspirated engine is much more efficient. Unless it's turbo diesel than it's a different story.
@Don Olypopper same mechanic told me the order of domestics he works on the most are Ford, then chevy, then dodge. so no im not too surprised about dodge.
@Don Olypopper just curious was it one of the newer ones ? I drove an 2015 6.7 for work a few years back it was supposed to have like 900ftlbs and it was a great truck never had a single issue with it drove amazing would peel out and haul ass. Realistically I think when they stared forcing stricter rules on everyone all the makers had a rough few years with their diesels. If I had to pick anything personally 4bt all day. But if I had to pick a truck...90s F350 XLT with a 7.3 idi please.
@Don Olypopper oh man things are engineered to fail nowadays for sure. No profit in repair just like Apple says. Like I said if I had to put a motor in one. Cummins. Ive just never like the looks of modern dodges. Edit: I put around 36k of hard hard labour on our truck alone regularly maxing payload while towing trailers and equipment all over WV took my leadfoot and more.
@Don Olypopper ive seen that at my local ford dealer. blew me away that the whole cab had to come off to do head work. ford sure likes to build them to generate labor money. if they cant gouge you enough on the parts they'll gouge you with the labor.
I own a 2012 Ford Falcon with the same 2.0 Ecoboost engine. It rattled from new and Ford did nothing when I complained about the rattle. It rattled upon light acceleration and on deceleration. After much messing around I learned that the wastegate on my car defaults to open and uses vacuum to close it upon start up. It did not have the wear shown on this video. It was just poorly adjusted and never fully closed. It turned out to be a simple enough task to use the adjustment nuts to adjust it so that the wastegate fully closed at idle. Power and torque improved, fuel consumption improved and no more noise. Fuel consumption improvement was 1/2L per 100km. My car now has 104,000km on it and runs beautifully.
You are right. When there is no wear, it is closed. As the wear increases, the tightening rod can not be closed. I almost changed the turbine for this focus ST 2.0T
“Loose to pivot and seat perfectly.” Sounds like an excuse to manufacture shitty parts. Valves dont pivots loosely to seat perfectly. I’m sure they could do A LOT better with that linkage.
Are you shitting me? It’s a pass though valve that has one moving part and spins at no RPMs, the metal is too soft and built like trash. I’m convinced you didn’t watch the video.
I had a dealership try to sell me a 2013 F-150 EcoBoost that had a hard rattle on startup on the left side. I asked about it and was told it's fine. Just probably a shroud or something loose. It sounded worse to me. Turns out the one turbo was shot. I got my deposit back after an hour or so of high blood pressure "talking".
@@jaandel1 it gives you a shitload more power, I believe by recycling exhaust into forced induction, and a lot more fun, but at the cost of worse fuel economy by far when on boost, way more wear and tear on your motor and transmission because you'll be horsing it all the time, and more things that can go wrong. They're great if the vehicle isn't your only means of driving.
@@mrelectron6220 what doesn't help the economy is people have no money to spend anywhere else. And while this may bring ass-tons of revenue to the automotive repair industry, the rest of the industries suffer.
I have the 3.5 ecoboost F150 with a ten speed and i certainly didnt buy it for better fuel economy, but for the speed and enjoyment of having turbos. If it breaks, I will fix, i absolutely love it.
The old one can be fixed by putting a bushing on the outside linkage and tightening up the waste gate. I do not see why the whole expensive thing needs to be replaced. That's like buying complete new wheels when your tires are worn.
@@Davido50 Back in the day I could buy a Caterpillar turbo cartridge for $873 if I replaced it before the turbo failed, so I would do that as preventative maintenance. Cat doesn't offer them anymore so now I have to buy a rebuilt turbo for $2k. A person shouldn't have to replace a turbo because the waste gate has failed, there's something wrong with that picture.
@@LynxStarAuto Thanks for the info, I've never owned gas powered vehicle's with turbos, only diesels. I've always avoided turbocharged gas engines for that very reason but Ford has gone all in with them.
Ahhh crap ! Just another problem to worry about on my eco-escape. Between this, the drive transaxle lubrication issue and the fact that my escape goes thru batteries every two years, I think its time to dump this money pit for a Honda.
@@Jordan-ym5gf i think we have two different visions of how to use that wire. if i understand Pat correctly his idea would keep it functioning properly. someone else also floated the idea of using a bushing in the hole. for $2k id be willing to try anything.
@@Billy_Darley you are correct. I was thinking of it only being used to take up the slack. You'd think Ford would used hardened steel in those areas since they stupidly made it as one unit. Why in the world they didn't make it serviceable is beyond me. If you're gonna make a hard part that shitty you ought to at least engineer it to have those parts serviceable without needing to replace the entire assembly. They'd still make the same money in labor possibly even more, but the greedy bastards want to sell you a second shitty part.
@@patdennis3751 same thing was done to the transmissions in the explorer. Steel rod sliding thru an aluminum hole. Hard vs soft metal. Softer of the two always loses.
I loved my 2013 Taurus SHO when it ran right. Maintained it meticulously however the left turbo began to leak at 80k miles. Traded it in. No more turbo cars for me.
I’ve got a 2014 but I swapped out my turbos for aftermarket Garrett G25/550. I traded my ecoboost F150 because of how expensive maintenance is on the ecoboost engines.
@@RadDadisRad You know what happens with expensive owner funded maintenance it gets put off buy owners. Some owners will do it many/most will not. A lot of people switched from cars to trucks when cars went to front wheel drive they became fragile and harder to maintain. Trucks were simple and more durable. A lot of owners expect to last 200,000 to 300,000 miles or more and got it with not much more than oil changes lube jobs and brake jobs and a rare tuneup. Ford is about to lose its market share in light duty trucks as consumers and the used truck markets begin to realize the ECO boost engines are not going to make it for the long haul out in the real world. Chevy is also dumber yet bringing out a 4 Cylinder Turbo Silverado Pickup.
I don't even have a modern ford, but I watch all your vids in aww of your abilities to pin point these problems. I'd love to see you work on some older model Fords.
I could certainly fix that up, but I can see how a shop would just replace the unit, but you could certainly fix that play with a bushing or some weld.
Why can’t the actuator be replaced? Looks like it could be. Integrated designs are terrible when things go wrong. If the same thing happened to my 1.6 fiesta ST it would only cost £100 for a new actuator fitted!
The v6 that goes in the explorer has an internal water pump. When it fails it dumps coolant into your oil. No good options for these vehicles. Maybe the 2.3 Ecoboost is more reliable.
I have a 2011 F150 FX4 with 3.5L Ecoboost Engine. After spending $5,000 to have the timing chain replaced, all 4 new phasers, VCT Solenoids, all gaskets, 02 Sensor, filter screens in both turbos, fuel system service, replace engine air filter and new OEM oil filter, engine flush, oil change and all brand new spark plugs... including dropping the oil pan to check for debris/blockages in the uptake screen/tube... Ford says they still don't know what's making a "ticking / rattling" sound and they want to sell me a remanufactured engine.... After watching videos like this, I'm very inclined to just to get my truck, drive it home and figure it out myself... They're just guessing with my money at this point. I feel Ford service dept "gave up" and said, just buy one of our remanufactured engines....
Thank you for your videos. You saved me alot of money from the dealer/parts changers. Had a completely clogged cat which caused misfires, pegged my pressure gauge at idle. they wanted to fix the misfires before swapping the clogged cat. Cat was under federal warranty by the way. With your videos I was able to intellegently argue my way to a new cat. And once that was done all the other problems dissapeared. Imagine that
Cat and not turbo? Under federal warranty? My dealer says it’s my cat and not turbo, even though I can reach down and wiggle the loose waste gate??? Anyway, how do I at least get covered under federal warranty?
Wheels, Wings and Rotors my wife’s rav4 went 300k miles and all that went wrong besides basic maintenance was the alternator. Traded it in on another rav4. Just hit 100k miles, not a single problem.
@@AJourneyOfYourSoul A family member bought a brand new 2006 V6 Rav4 that had a steering shaft replaced at 30k, an ECM that failed at 64k, alloy wheels that rotted after 4 years (car was garaged and washed), and had the rear lower control arms replaced 2 times. Toyota can make turds too. Granted, its less common, but not everything they make is gold.
@@ak2112 No doubt every manufacturer makes mistakes. That steering shaft and steering ECM was a first year design flaw for that generation Rav4, 2006. Toyota fixed it that year. That is one thing I like about Toyota also, they actually fix design flaws and not let them go on year after year after year. Look how long Subaru let their head gasket issue go on for, 10 years.
That’s what I like about Toyota. Just picked up a 2015 Sequoia 5.7 v8. I’m sure if there were any first model year issues they were sorted 8 years prior when that body style came out. By the way they still sell the same thing to this day. No turbo, no direct injection, no cylinder de-activation, no timing belt, no water pump tucked inside of the engine, no worries. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
I'd put up with the rattle! Or try and shim it all up and plenty of grease to reduce the vibration or even source a 2nd hand used part that is not as worn? Not sure it is economical to spend 2k on a +90k mile car? Sticking a brand new turbo on an old worn engine will most probably introduce a whole new set of issues!!🤔😯⚠️
Sorry ford people if that was a Honda or Toyota they would have had a Warranty Extension on the repair . I worked For Honda for 17 years and we also had a Toyota dealership so I have seen them cover stuff like this. Very sad. I you cover it they will buy a ford again if they don't then it's the last Ford they will own.
I think the noise wouldn't have bothered me as much as dropping 2k plus labor, but the bypass valve not seating tightly against the surface it was intended to seat against would have been bleeding off boost.
@@FordTechMakuloco So I have a cold start rattle that I hear inside my 13 KR with the 3.5. Mostly from the passenger side. Still think it's this same issue? Was really hoping for a loose piece of interior trim but it goes away once the truck warms up. Already on the hook for a boost control valve and adapter, turbo oil lines, and a tranny line o ring. Glad its only at 68K
Gonna see this more and more on all these new turbo motors as they age. I’ll take a V6 any day over this, I could care less about the torque or fuel economy.in comparison.
@@LynxStarAuto As someone who has spent a fair bit of time around German vehicles (VW/Audi specifically) turbo failures are nothing new, I've specifically avoided anything turbocharged because it's such a precise piece of equipment that undergoes such incredible stresses and any deviance from their tight tolerances can smoke the turbo and engine--I think it's technology best left to performance cars and not stuff the general population would drive.
I have a 3.5 eco, it makes a rattling noise from the engine most of the time when starting, cold or warm, and goes away after a bit.nHaven't tried the deceleration test, but doesn't sound like what's on this video. Only 37k miles. Has there been other issues for something else coming loose or wearing?
Farming... the 3.5 v6 both turbo and non-turbo have issues with the timing chain and cam phasers wearing out. Do a search, Makuloco did a video on it. I recently made that very repair on my buddies 2011 3.5 N/A engine. Made it like new again for about $1000 as opposed to a shop doing it for $3000.
Farming 4G I have a 19 3.5 that has this extreme wastegate rattle as well, it’s definitely not the timing chain or cam phasers. Next time you start your truck put some pressure on the wastegate actuator linkage with your finger (cold start) willing to bet the sound will subside
Thanks for the responses, I'll be looking into it and running some of your suggestions to narrow it. I did come across Makuloco's vids on the timing chains and that could be what's going on. It is a 2013 XLT The dealership I bought it from brand new has been good to work with, so I'll be taking it to them sometime... I'm confident they'll work something out to make it not as painful on the pocketbook.
And so this is why I haven't purchased a new car of any make for the last 20 years. The new technology is nice, but when it fails kids, you'll be crying when you have to pay to have it repaired!
I've long been a fan of buying something older for cheap, fixing it, and running it forever but have recently gotten fed up with having to fix old junk all of the time. I bought the first new car of my life about a month ago and it sure is nice knowing I can just get in and go somewhere without worrying about what's going to go wrong next. If something does go wrong, it comes with roadside service and a warranty to fix what's wrong. I'll take the loaner car from the dealership and run that until they fix what's wrong, it's a lot less stress than worrying about what's about to go wrong next on your old rig. I still love my old trucks, but there's something to be said for peace of mind.
This is not only a Ford problem Volkswagen and Audi cars and BMW have similar issues mostly the bushings that the waste gate shaft pivots into wear out and causes a low boost fault. I’m curious what is brand Turbocharger is it it looks like a IHI one more way the turbo can fail on a Volkswagen CCTA engine is the V band clamp break where the two halves are connected opposite of the securing bolts this is a stupid failure because your can’t buy a replacement at the dealer only if you look enough online you can find a replacement. Looks like the turbo could be a Borg Wagner brand I thought only IHI had a V band holding the center cartridge to the turbine housing but I guess I was wrong.
New Fords last for three years, lightly driven....such as mine for three years around 40,000 miles.....3000+ dollars to get it running again just to sell it, before a major expensive break.....then the compound breaks begin. You borrow these cars for three years thinking expenses will be cheap but its more like you should be making huge sums of money for the three years to pay upwards to about 10,000 in repairs around the 50 - 100 thousand miles range. It's not like its a break of the most expensive things at the same time more like like over a mileage you'll fix something then another thing breaks that can be critical for the car to run.
I had a 2013 3.5L twin turbo, on cold starts the timing chain was slapping, noped out of that real quick and traded it for a 6.2L F-250. Never buying an Ecoboost again. If for some reason the 3/4 tons go to the Ecoboost in the future, i'll be switching manufacturers. Its a shame because i loved the truck, and its options, but sub par parts on a $45,000 truck just boggles my mind.
Same thing happened to my bosses ecoboost f-150. When I bought a new 1/2 ton truck I wanted a Ford but I'm not a fan of the Ecoboosts or overhead cam V8's so I ended up with a Dodge with a Hemi. I'm a Ford guy but if Ford would've offered the 7.3 gas engine in the F-150 I would've been all over that instead of a Dodge.
LOL I have a 2013 1.6L escape with 250,000km from 146,000km I have had an turbo underboost CEL and countless noises from front to back, and is just not worth fixing problem after problem. Driving this into the ground until it calfs and jumping the pond and buying a 2020 Mazda CX-5 GT
This is a 2012.. in 2017 they redesigned the turbo to use an electronically controlled wastegate. FordTechMakuloco, do you know if they have this same weakness on gen 2 EcoBoost ?
When I idle I can hear the ticking noise also I got a wrench light and the truck started to lose power and then a check engine light came on I went to auto zone and they read the code it said it was an under boost issue. Any ideas?
@@LynxStarAuto The turbos are sold to the customers by Ford not Garrett, for customers Ford is responsible. The Catalyst needing replacement was an additional problem for the customer because Ford changed the design. Way to take care of your customers Ford!
@@LynxStarAuto I am well aware of all factors impacting my vesicle ownership. including the heavy cost of new car depreciation. Having owned cars from US, Japan and Germany, I have a clear understanding who builds cars with best chances for easy ownership during and well beyond the warranty period :-) Oh... and its amazing how markets work, the cars with better durability had higher resale value when my ownership period was over.
That's outrageous. A total turbo replacement because of a warn waste gate activation arm? There is no reason that shouldn't be designed better than that! There's a reason I've avoided turbocharged cars so far.
Same goes for all brands. I work for a Subaru dealership and our sister stores are Audi, VW, Chevy, Cadillac, and Toyota. You can't buy individual turbo parts for any of them, you replace the whole thing or nothing at all. Our VW/Audi store sees turbos with broken shafts, wastegate actuators, and all kinds of issues all of the time and turbo swaps are routine for the techs over there. As regular as engine and transmission swaps for the Chevy store, frame and axle swaps for the Toyota store, and electrical nightmares at the Cadillac store.
@@406Steven - I hear ya, and unfortunately, I'm not surprised. I was just amazed at how much slop there was in between the vacuum servo rod and the arm that controls the waste gate on the outside of the turbo. It just seems to me, and it's easy for me to say, that they could come up with a better connection than that, or at least allow for the replacement of the arm and joint assembly if needed as opposed to having to replace the entire turbocharger, ESPECIALLY at mileages less than 100k!
Is it only the 2012 that requires the new cat? I have a 2013 with this issue. Debating about just running with it if both need replacing but it threw the underboost code during interstate driving. Thanks
It has to be loose so it doesn't bind in all operating conditions, remember this is on the exhaust side so it get's very hot and must pivot freely even when the metal expands as it heats up.
@@FordTechMakuloco Turbochargers have been around for a long time and many manufacturers have built turbocharged vehicles that can last well past 100k miles without such a failure, what makes these turbos different?
I could have swore that was an exhaust leak on my mustang ecoboost but never mind now I know what it is thank you! I guess technically it’s still an exhaust leak?!?!
I work for a Subaru dealership and there's a new recall every week. I bought the best extended warranty I could when I got mine, we'll see how it holds up and see if it's something I keep past the warranty. Our sister store sells Toyota, Chevy, and Cadillac with another store handling VW and Audi. Across all of these brands I can attest that not one of them builds a quality vehicle, perhaps the online reviews are right and Hyundai/Kia are worth looking into!
And to think the Ford f150 has a twin turbo 2.7 liter v6 engine. We can all thank the US government for allowing this to happen. The higher the fuel efficiency goes the more it cost to purchase the vehicles initially and much more to maintain them over the life of the engine. Thanks Obama.
I've always argued that the more components the more issues down the road but this has nothing to do with Obama lol. Sure he didn't help but these car manufacturers knew where we were headed and made it happen. Now we have vehicles priced double what they're actually worth.
Everytime the government,Obama included, fiddle farts around and asks for more regulation and higher cafe standards there is a corresponding decrease in quality and increase in price. Ipso facto
@@dendemron3744 again not arguing around that. I'm just saying the costs to build compared to what they are charging these days is basically legal theft lol. High price, higher payments then on top of that Ole biden has made sure gas prices would be a dollar more a gallon than it was a year ago.
nlitenurmind my 18 5.0 F-150 has the rattle but it’s not significant and sometimes isn’t there at all. I was concerned at first but after hitting 20,000 miles on it I’m not nearly as worried. I’ve sent my oil out to be tested after changes to determine if there’s anything unusual in it and it comes back with normal numbers every time. The truck doesn’t lack power and drives smooth. So unless they come up with a fix that does work and doesn’t send me back to the dealership multiple times, I’m probably gonna deal with the noise
This very thing happened to my wife's '13 Edge with 2.0 ecoboost. Started as a rattle that I chased thinking it was exhaust heat shield/etc. Then one day going down the highway i noticed that it couldn't climb slight inclines without downshifting. That eventually turned into the check engine light for "underboost". I took it to the dealership and bam, bad turbo, one time use bolts/gaskets, need a new cat. I was lucky that it was just barely under the extended warranty, so it only cost me the $100 deductible. Not 4 months later on the new turbo and I already hear the loose startup when cold.
The strange thing is, here in Europe we barely have any problems... Ford uses the original oil at dealership from castrol. From my experience and having 2 ecoboost cars I have always changed oil 5w20 every 10000 km and my previous Ford fiesta was sold with 200 000km 0 issues no carbon build up problems, changed timing belt at 100k and never had to open engine and same 0 km power and speed after 200 000km. Change the oil with factory brand, because that is what it was designed for. And once in a while drive in the highway at higher average speeds you drive in the city like 120km/h 140km/h for some more extended periods and magic no carbon build up or whatsoever. Now I own a focus st (European model) with a 2.3 ecoboost 280hp and I will treat the same.
How much boost did your Volvo make? I've driven some of those older Volvos and they're great cars but the throttle pedal just determines how much noise it makes, not what you get in terms of acceleration.
I’ve a 2012 f 150 FX4 I drive every day it’s got 141 K on it just started leaking transmission fluid from the front of the transmission had the transmission service about two month ago any thing to look for
@@Dirtyharry70585 The sad part is that a reliable truck with slightly higher tailpipe emissions does less environmental damage than a 30 MPG truck that meets EPA regs that only lasts as long as the warranty is good for. If the EPA knew their bum from their elbow they'd introduce legislation about reliability, not just meeting MPG and proprietary testing.
Alot of this might just be owner maintenance and it might not be. I Had a 16 fusion with the 1.5 ecoboost to 100k not a single issue. Now have the 2.7 ecoboost f150 at 50k and nothing yet. Probably alot of people with this issue and just as many without this issue. It is good information to know!
