Mike were all here to support you! When torquing the axal Nut one thing I have figured out is screw 2 lugnuts down on 2 studs then the prybar on them. That saves the thread. Another thing find vinal tubing that slides on 2 studs as well~Thanks Much
Hey man, love the tips! Both great options for sure. The way I look at it, the prybar is a smaller thickness than the wheel so in the event the threads would be marred, which hasn't happened for me, they would be covered by the wheel and not needed for securing the lugnut. In the case of these 2 piece capped luck nuts, I wouldn't put any leverage against them for fear of ruining the cap and needing to buy the customer new lugs. ~Mike
I thought the saying "hope I ate my wheaties" was just an Aussie saying. Good job Mike. I like to twist the caliper on the rotor after the mounting bolts are removed to push the pads back. It's quicker and no chance of marking the rotor or pads. I like your diagnostic skills & teaching. Always something to learn in this trade.
A very thorough walkthrough, Mike! I once had a younger tech ask me if a few small dabs of silicone or wheel bearing grease could be used to hold the spring on the seal but even though it was good thinking on his side I recommended that he not do that (and to just take extra care driving it in) since the silicone or grease, even at a small amount, could cause an issue with the clutch packs or other internal components.
Unlikely as it cannot be any worse than shredded worn clutch material or bearing. Also; when grease is applied it doesn't dissolve in its current viscosity; it will thin out if it were to start travelling with ATF and only at high temperatures. As long as the fluid is level and replaced as recommended; there will never be an issue with premature wear.
As long as there's no friction material or metal in the grease, i'd think it would be ok. Think of rebuilding an auto, some of the pieces are packed or lubed with assembly grease. ~Mike
Just changed the axle on the wife’s 2011 ford edge. Drivers side front. Took me 7 hours start to finish. The biggest pain in the ass was the sway bar link. I had to cut it off. Other wise thanks for the great video!! Hopefully it doesn’t need an alignment!
@@Jast858 Not sure what ford would have charged for parts and labor. Bought the part from Autozone for 89.99 and rented their impact sockets to get the axle nut off!
If the ball joint looks troublesome, I will loosen the strut bolts too, I just mark the location and make sure it goes back into the same location. The bushing is a pain for sure! ~Ryan
Great video. Got to say I love my Milwaukee electric tools. Man I wished they had them back when I worked as a technician in the 70-80s 🙂 . It was all hand or Air baby
Hello, Same here, I love the new electric stuff! I remember running air lines outside, just because I could not afford the first electric stuff that came out. Plus the charging time was insane on the old battery's! We are so spoiled these days! Besides how complicated cars are becoming! Thanks for watching! ~Ryan
I entered the field right at the end of OBD 1 , The first scan tools I was trained on was the TECH 1 and the old Snap-On brick. Have been learning everyday day since. The industry moves so fast! ~Ryan
Good repair Mike! I thought that axle shaft would give you trouble coming out of the transaxle but you got lucky. Please use gloves on your hands. What was the replacement axle shaft, Ford or aftermarket? Another great video, keep 'em coming!
Great job as usual Mike, except, once more not wearing gloves... gloves police here! :) Also, having a bit of OCD, I'd have sprayed some brake cleaner on that brake rotor after handling it with my hands. Love it how clean your shop looks and how detailed oriented you are.
Hey Johnny, you're right...I should be wearing gloves. I need to pick some up! I'll try for some orange or green ones so you catch them right away next time! Love it man! Brake cleaning the rotor would be a good idea for sure. Thanks for watching! ~Mike
@@GoTechTraining I have a box of orange gloves in may garage... they're good, except for brake cleaner. It doesn't destroy them, but it seems to be able to go through the gloves... I feel my skin a bit itchy if I use a lot of brake cleaner.
Good video Mike. I suspect you were having an "off day", and things didn't go as planned. Whenever an axle comes out that easy, I immediately check to see if the clip fell off inside the transmission. I pack the back of the seal with grease to keep the internal spring from popping out as it did here. I use whatever I can find to uniformly tap on the outer edge of seal. When I torque the axle nut, I insert a standard screwdriver through the caliper inspection hole, into the rotor vent ribs. (I'll break the screwdriver before hurting the rotor!) However, the pry bar between the two studs is the safest, when using a lug nut on each stud, to draw the pry bar close to the base of the two studs. I also really appreciate that you cover torque specs. (I'll be doing that also, as soon as I have shop data)
That trans needs new fluid anyways by the time doing a seal or axle. I like to use a chain around lower control arm to pry them down fwiw. I always put a little grease on the spring of seal to hold it in place. I had to do that TSB before and that bushing is a pain without the tool
This would show a missing tooth or even enlarged signal for cracked areas. This is easy diag because you can see the tone ring. In other cases you need a lab scope to confirm. This happens a lot in GM wheel bearings which are magnetic reluctors just behind it. Those magnetic reluctors tend to brake off and do something similar like this but more severe as the module things the wheels locked up, etc which simulates a tire slipping so it locks the opposite tire that is moving to control the vehicle, etc.
Hello, On a Lab scope, you definitely would see a section missing or jump in the signal, the graphing on this video is from a scan tool which is not always as fast. I agree GM has a similar issue, a little different being MRE type sensor but the same concept. Thanks for watching! ~Ryan
@@GoTechTraining I have seen the magnet film portion rust from inside and brake pieces of the bearing assembly which would create gaps and intermittent signals and the worst I have seen would actually actuate the ABS hydraulic aggressively and could cause accident; really dangerous. I advise customers to disconnect the suspect sensors if they plan on driving them so that the ABS system is temporarily disabled as the risk of having it like that would cause more harm than good.
Be careful tightening that large shaft nut by pushing your torque wrench FORWARD like that (37:55) -- if it's a small enough car, you can push the car right off the hoist. Next time make sure you are parallel to the ground with your torque wrench, so you can pull DOWNWARD on it for the final torque spec.. You might be surprised how easily you can push a car off of a jack or jack stands-- or off of the hoist. Just kinda be mindful what direction you are pushing all that force.
Oh man, when I watched that back I was wondering what the hell I was doing trying to push the 258 ft lbs instead of pulling it. I've never seen anyone push a car off a lift, but I'm sure it's possible. ~Mike
If you're replacing the seal because of a leak, put transmission fluid in the tranny when you push the axle into the housing and move the axle around for a few minutes just to check for leaks, Don't wait until you've reassembled everything to find that the leak is still there.
Next time, you can just put the spring back on your seal (as long as it wasn't damaged or stretched, etc.)-- and then you pack that spring with grease; just fill the entire back side of the seal with grease to hold the spring in place.
God I hope that’s my problem, my ABS freaks out if I hit a bump or a puddle, but no lights or warnings. Just a pedal straight to the floor. I’ve been worried I’d have to spend hundreds of dollars on a new ABS pump/motor assembly unit and changing that out would SUCK. So I need to look over my tone rings!
If they break that easily, then get a new one; Because the weight of your car hitting a pot hole puts a hell of a lot more shock load on it than spreading it apart just a bit.. Though I would agree that "spreading it apart" is the wrong move-- you should just pound in your wedge, and then pull it all apart with your little wedge still in the crack-- then when you remove it, they tend to spring back closed: Rather than OVER spreading it so that it now holds itself open.. But honestly, it should be a forged part and not cast, so I would be pretty shocked if you can break it.
This industry uses way to many acronyms...so many that we don't even realize we're saying them anymore. Anyone speaking with customers should avoid them, where possible to prevent confusion between sealers and processes. 😂 ~Mike
