Thanks for the tips, It's starting to heat up in Australia & my A/C hasn't worked for two years! I'm well overdue to fix it and this has given me a great place to start fault finding, cheers.
Great video! Im working through the steps as you did. Going to replace the transducer next. Having a bit of trouble finding the actual part. Theres a 90$ (ish) part that shows up when they search for this as well as a 30$ (ish) part. If you happen to have more details on how to locate this specific part, I'd be thankful!!
follow a silver colored pipe to an upright can wrapped in black plastic. the can will also have a black hose going to it. the transducer will be on the top of that can. I wish you the best on your repair
@@ChrisLegg17 unfortunately no it didn't work. The problem was the pigtail connector snapped somehow so it wasn't getting power. Took it to the shop and got it fixed for pretty cheap.
thanks for telling me that I can’t jump the pressure switch any more . i did not know this and went past the potential problem because the jump did not work!
You may wish to hook up a manifold gauge set to the system to help with the diagnosis. Many automotive stores lend them for free. I wish you the best on your repair
I replaced the timing belt, pressure switch and even compressor, still didnt fix the ac. All the fuse looks good too. Can't figure out the problem, its very strange.
Recently I was told that there's no ground in the AC relay switch, but other than that not able to figure out whats wrong. I have had the refrigerant tested through gauges and that looks good. Sorry I mean the ac belt was replaced, not the timing belt. Condenser looks good too. Heater works pretty good, i dont know whats a heater/drier.
I will be trying your fixes. What do you think of the Air Conditioner Recharge Kits (Mr. Freeze or AC Pro) at auto parts stores to fill your own synthetic refrigerant?
If your refrigerant is low it means you have a leak in the system that needs to be repaired. The cans sold at stores typically contain a leak sealer which may or may not seal even a very small leak. Shops that have refrigerant recovery machines may refuse to evacuate your refrigerant if it contains a sealer since it messes up their equipment. It is illegal in the US to knowingly release refrigerant into the atmosphere. Many auto parts stores have loaner gauge sets to check your refrigerant pressures. The pressure should be checked before adding any refrigerant. Over filling the system will make it not work just as an under system. I wish you the best on your repair
Do you know if you need to pull the Freon out first or can I swap this part out without draining the system? My low side pressure is 120, then randomly the compressor runs and it drops to 40psi, so I don’t think Freon levels are my issues. And the relays seem to have no change.
So mine kicks on and off like you mentioned, I checked pressure, it's in the red when not running and middle to upper green when running. It'll kick on and off for a few minutes just after starting the car and then just quits kicking on all together. When it is on, it's blowing ice cold air. Could the transducer (whatever it was you changed in this video) be bad, or do you suspect something else? Thanks!
It is hard to diagnose, without looking at the gauge, yet if it is not the transducer you may wish to look closer at the expansion valve which will require the refrigerant to be professionally removed. I wish you the best with your repair
Maybe someone can help figuring out my ac or radiator fan problem. Wen I start my Escape 11 3,0l xlt. Sometime both radiator fan work on full throttle ac off and dont stop until ignition off and sometimes they work perfectly until the temperature sensor turn them on. If I pushing the ac button the compressor start, the heater fan work good on all speed but no cool air. I don’t mind a none working ac. My question is that normal for the fan running like crazy.
If the compressor is running (clutch engaged) and you have no cold air, most likely the HVAC blend door is inoperable. Also check the cabin air filter to ensure it’s not completely clogged, or if someone removed it, and now the condenser is clogged. This can cause the condenser coil to freeze rather quickly, preventing heat exchange. Finally check the HVAC air temperature sensor to ensure it hasn’t failed.
Is there supposed to be power at that transducer switch plug? I'm assuming so. I have power at the fuse but when I use the test light on the 3 pins of the switch it doesn't light up.
I have an 09' the clutch is kicking on & off but no AC. Fuses & Relays all good.. Hooked up a can of freon with gauge & it was in the Red. Luckily I have Carshield & they gonna pay for it I figure its the high or low pressure switch
If it’s in the red, the system is over charged, or the vehicle is not running. The problem with DIY refrigerant purchases is the danger of over charging. If the compressor is trying to cycle upon engine start, then stops, the pressure switch could be the cause. Otherwise it’s possible the compressor has or is failing. Keep us updated on findings.
So mines been going in and out as well it doesn’t stay on long at all, one day it did it all day hasn’t done it for awhile now it’s doing it again and this time worse than before, if it needed freeon wouldn’t there be a leak? I recently got the condenser replaced and a few weeks ago when it happened the first time around I took it back they did a pressure test and said they couldn’t find any issues but also at that time the clutch was engaging just fine so I figured they wouldn’t find anything
Also if it ends up not being the freeon like you said at the end of the video due to it going in and out, do you just replace the compressor at that point?
freeon came out, could the switch that you talked about that needs the right pressure also be the cause of the compressor engaging then disengaging? When it does engage it’s cold as ice but of course as soon as it’s not it’s hot air again and sure enough it’s still engaging then disengaging shortly after then waits awhile before it does it again
you will need a manifold gauge set to double check the pressure and if it has enough refrigerant in the system, many auto parts stores have some they loan out for free. I wish you the best on your repair
my 2012 4 cyl has started blowing extremely cold, then hot. Back and forth until the outside temp gets around 80, then it quits working. Just hot air for me! Someone said the heater/.drier needs replaced. Does that make sense? TIA.
To better diagnose the issue you will need an ac manifold pressure gauge. Many automotive stores will lend you them for free. if some of your refrigerant leaked out the gauge will show that. I wish you the best on your repair
I had a full charge of refrigerant, newer blower motor resistor, and the compressor clutch would engage for about 1 second when turning on the ac then disengage. I wish I knew of a test for the transducer switch but I don't know of any for this type. I wish you the best on your repair
Using a multi-meter, check the switch for continuity. Closed is required to engage the compressor. 2 prong are simple. 3 prong have 3 possible combinations, whereas 4 prong have 6 possible combinations. Videos are available indicating test method. Don’t just throw parts at the problem. Take your time and logically test the system.
@@bbbjim1fixedit yes it is i figured out. For some reason the red pc was disconnecting and was in the pressure switch. I did get working. I blew some air through the threaded end and it works for now. Thx for the video!
you may wish to take a closer look at the wires going from the fuse box to the compressor, a wire missing the insulation can ground out blowing the fuse. Next look at the ac compressor clutch, that may have a short circuit. I wish you the best on your repair
You were taken by the previous owner who should’ve disclosed that issue. The fuse is blowing due to overcurrent either caused by a faulty lead (hot) wire, or the clutch has failed. Unplug the clutch, then test the wires to ground. If both indicate continuity to ground, then look for cuts or other ground points. If the wires test ok, then test the clutch coil. If the clutch, these can often be replaced without discharging the system.
My 2011 just started blowing hot air the other day. Relays are good but compressor clutch never kicks on. I hooked up a can of refrigerant to recharge it but it goes to the red area saying it’s too high. Gonna try replacing the ac pressure valve if y’all have any other ideas let me know please 🙏
@@ChrisLegg17 Ac Receiver Dryer contaminated the entire system and messed up the compressor. I had to buy all new components and have it all replaced ran me about $800 for the parts and labor
