Ford Escape Intermittent No Crank/No Start! Easy Fix! 

Just to add my experience. 2013 Escape 1.6. My son was driving it home and the engine died. The instrument display said the transmission not in park. The lights would come on inside, but no dash lights. Miles showed up on display, but nothing else. Would not start. Had to use the override switch in the shift lever to put it into neutral and drug it home. Watched many videos. Checked: battery-it was ok, 1 year old Mega fuses- ok, ohm check and voltage checked. Even swapped 2 50A-all good. Major grounds-generally looked like crap (northern tier salted roads), but checked good otherwise. Cleaned and moved on. With no other major things or any available indications, I decided to check the start circuit, starting with the key circuit. Quickly found the Ignition Switch Fuse (F78 on BCM) was blown. Replaced it and car worked as advertised. Tried to drive it, and the fuse blew again. Began shooting wires after the fuse to find short. Checked to key and back. Looked for shorts to ground, none found. Shook harnesses and connectors, no shorts found. Began looking for other potential shorts associate with the floor shifter, instrument panel, pedals (for the heck of it.) To my surprise, found a Ford Remote Start System DNA-9 GEN-2 stuffed up under the driver’s side. Had bought the car used and was told there was no remote start. Was surprised because the wiring checked good following the diagrams for no remote start. Due to the shoddiness of the installation as well as manufacture dates on these remote start parts, this system was installed at least two years after the car was manufactured. Started researching my car problems with this Ford remote starter. Found a post for a 2015 Escape with the same problems. (His remote start stopped working and even the key wouldn’t work. Found F78 blown.) He disconnected the Ford DNA-9 GEN-2, replaced the fuse and it worked. He opened the box and found corrosion all over the board. I disconnected the remote start, replaced the fuse, everything worked fine. Did many laps around a local addition, no more problems. I opened the Ford DNA-2 GEN-2 and found a blown diode. Since this remote start box has been removed, I have had no further problems. Hope this helps if all the rest doesn’t.

I just had this exact problem on my 2013 Escape. After driving and parking the car my son went to use it and it was totally dead as if the battery were disconnected. As I was testing the battery voltage I slightly moved the positive battery wire and heard a click, Every time I move the cable i heard a click and sometimes the car would come back to life. I figured I had a short. I found this video and ended up having the same fuse which was not blown but just cracked. Replaced the bad fuse with the OEM part ($6.00) and problem solved. Thank you so much for this video.

Thank You so much for this post! I have a 2015 escape with the same issue. I had taken the car to Ford and they told me they found a loose pin connector #C1035C which was Bullshit! When I got home the car die again. Now come Monday I will show them this video. Just like you did, when I move that little plate where the positive cable is connected to, it makes a connection and starts right up. 👍👏👏👏

Bruh!!! You are life saver!! This exactly is what was wrong with my 2013 Escape. However one has to get the replacement from the dealer as the auto parts store do not have this fuse. God Bless you a million times over.

You are a lifesaver!! I have a 2018 and had this issue for almost 3 weeks :(

Had a similar issue in my 2013 Escape. No cranking. Replaced the starter (the solenoid was toast but the motor still worked) but still no crank. I had checked the starter relay and its fuse and tried jumping the starter directly. The fuse in question showed continuity but I decided to change it as I was running out of ideas. Fired right up once the fuse was replaced. Thanks for the helpful video!

Nice catch! That could be easily overlooked if someone were in a hurry or unfamiliar with voltage drop testing. Great video!

I spent 1/2 a day trying to figure out an intermittent no start. The problem was not occurring when I was attempting to find it. This was the problem when flexing that plate. The car did have a U3006:13-68 I overlooked when I was chasing down Lost comm with ECM/TCM. THANKS! Would make a great TSB.

Hey brother, I just want to say thank you. You save me a lot of money and aggravation.

Thank you for this video, my Ford Escape 2017 was dead, like no current (like if there was no battery in the car) nothing than 10 minutes it would start like nothing happened. It did that 2 times. Seems, it’s always the first fuse from the right. The part 782-1144 from NAPA Canada cost 14.46$ my garage changed it in less then 10 minutes. Having the part here I cannot see that it’s broken but the truck no longer has the problem. Time will tell but I'm confident that was the problem. Thank you again.

Nice job on find this problem I had the same thing happened to my moms car tracked it down thanks to you and found the bad fuse thank for posting this it really helped

“Whoever’s paying for it wins.” AMEN BROTHER #cya

this saved me a ton of diganostic time thumbs up a million times.. btw that fuse is what gives the bcm a power supply ... when i changed it the old one had wayyyyy too much resistance

I have this exact issue! Thank you!

Great catch! My 2014 had the same issue! Thanks 👍

Thank you very much for your assistance. I have been experiencing this issue with my 2018 Escape for quite some time and was unable to identify the cause. I am grateful for your informative video.

Man I love you, you helped me to found my problem!

Also, remember that battery cables age too. They can get to the point where the resistance is too much for the system to overcome. Always check the ohms on your battery cables.

Thank you! Had the same issue Nappa had the part too!

Thanks buddy, saved me some diag on this one. I owe you a beer.

Just like to say thank you for I'm having the same issue with my 2017 2.5 because of your video I know to check it. Car runs for 30 die out does not want to start until it cools down test the fuse had no power after hot

Thank you. Great Video. Very explained.

I have a 2017 escape having issues starting. Dealer said it was a starter motor. I've changed it and it's doing the same thing. It only happens though when it's hot outside. Thoughts?

Great video brotha, good catch. I like your light bulb set up, I need to make one of those. Thanks for sharing.

I'm curious. Seen several tutorials. Most find fix issue. That is the fuse, short, bcn/ security. Im curious as to the surge that pops the mega fuses.

I have a 2009 ford focus and I had trouble starting my car so I made a push button to my car to by pass it. It ran perfect for a few days and I came back out and had no power in the car at all. Took it to my mechanic and he said it’s my ignition switch but I put a push button in to by pass that. I did my ignition housing and I still have no power or lights on the dashboard when the key is in run position. All my other lights work on the car. Do you think it’s a fuse ?

We have what appears to be the same issue (after changing the battery a few weeks ago). I appreciate the part number for the fuse, what's the part number for the panel? Also, what all ( and how) needs to be removed to get access to the fuses?

I keep blowing that fuse with one 80,000 miles. Shorting on the wire under the fuse box 2014 Escape. Removing the fuse box tomorrow. We will see. I was hoping it was the plate supply fuse.

Here for my kids car, great video, you're funny as hell also. Same car , 2013 escape 4cyl , there losing power (limp mode , depressing gas and it sputters) no CEL, they light up briefly but after restarting vehicle no CEL illuminated ... Thinking camshaft or crankshaft sensor any thoughts

Great video sir❤

Thanks brother

How do I get to the plate and high current fuses? Remove air filter housing?

Great video ! Does anyone got the part num. For the fuse ?

nice work!

Thanks

I have a 2014 ford escape 2.5 s class it will start for a little while then it will not start I have put a starter alternator and a new battery in it and it's still having the same issue is that the fews I need to change to fix the problem

My 2017 shut off while driving and cranks but wont start. Battery was just replaced 5 months ago. Any idea what could be wrong?

This is a very common problem on the escape and the focus. Why is this fuse going out on all of them? Could this cause the car to shut off at speed on the highway because I read a number of reports of that happening to people?

God Bless you and your Family in The Name of JESUS for making This Video!!

I have a 2006 ford escape. While driving it shut off with no signs of fuel or motor. My friend is a mecánic and we have tested everything and it wont turn on. Lights go on but no start. Any idea

My barber was telling me she had this same problem and it was diagnosed as a "smart box"issue priced at 1000.00 repair bill. Is that considered a "smart box" in technical terms ?

This just saved me. What would be the technical name for that exact fuse?

THANKS SO MUCH

Was told be mechanic that if my starter was bad it wouldn't crank at all ? Is this true ? Mine does crank but sometime very weakly . Takes sometimes a few tries . Brand new battery.

I have the same problem on my ford escape 2014 model

Got a 2013 that may start and may not have to keep trying may not do it for 2 3 days press the switch will spin couple times and stop crank and shut off or start and run

Same car same issue here. But afraid it is the starter here. 🍻

I have a 2019 that after putting fuel in is not wanting to start saying must manually start and have to try a few times and it will finally start?!?! What’s this we just replaced the fuel filter little tiny black piece with all the wires off of it and it’s still having this issue

my 2013 ford escape does not start, engine damaged and they only changed the rack and pinion

could this be the same in causing phantom draw?

Would this cause the car to die while running parked

One of my bolts fell down off the 50 fuse can anyone tell me where to get another one, the dealer said they only sell it in the junction box

Please help me sir! Recently, a client called me to fix his 2000 Toyota Avalon car that cranked but wasn't starting. From the onset, the car experienced several mechanical, as well as, electrical issues. Some of those problems were:- (1) Engine Oil consumption; (2) Engine misfire; (3) Engine rattling; (4) Intermittent hard starting after shutdown; (5) Hard to engage in drive, except engine is hot; etc. Hence, he took the car to a garage inorder to rectify the excessive Engine oil consumption and other car problems highlighted above. Consequently, the car problems exacerbated after engine rebuild by the engineer! The car owner wasn't satisfied with his repairs because it seems the engineer was deceitful. Although the car started after the rebuild, the problems still persisted. Valves weren't grinded after engine overhaul, engine still misfired at idle and when accelerating, etc. The engineer whose garage the car is presently being parked, requested for another engine overhau/ rebuildl. After engine rebuild the car started, the oil was mixed with water; the engine was still misfiring, rattling, etc. It was obvious, that he didn't use durable parts to do his work. Hence, the car owner moved the car to another garage for better repairs. The new garage suggested to the car owner that another engine rebuild is pertinent for optimal engine operation. During my conversation with this engineer, whose garage the car is presently being parked, he told me that: "when the car was first brought in, he noticed a black smoke ( maybe he was mistaken for blue smoke, at exhaust tail at idle). When accelerating, there's a loss of power, engine bucking, popping,etc. After the rebuild, the car didn't start because the mechanic didn't unlock the car with the remote but proceeded directly to cranking the engine. In addition, the security relay wasn't actuated for starting to take place. Electrician did some wire cutting around that axis which he said was corrected to factory, opened with a remote before the car started. Fortunately, after everything, the car started again. But there was still an intermittent misfire. What the car owner said was that, 'even when the second mechanic did engine rebuild, the car still misfired. Until he personally bypassed earth from the COP wire to the solenoids very close to the fuel injector often tightened with 10mm knot and depicted with blue and green colors on the picture. Car owner verified that the reasons for the misfire from both mechanics which still prevailed, was due to the solenoid valve that wasn't opening. That's why when accelerating it experienced a loss of power, similar to that experienced by a faulty fuel pump. After gear oil replacement and test driven by the second mechanic , smoke started emanating from the engine bay. Precisely, from the fan relay that the car owner connected by himself. Within few minutes, the car shutdown by itself as if fuel is finished. As he tried to restart it, the car refused to. Infact, when the ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, battery and fuel light was not displaying in the dashboard/ instrument cluster. However, during cranking battery light glew faintly and start. But when throttled, it would shutdown. Electrician verified and replaced the alternator diode with a new one. When Ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, the battery and other lights came out brightly but when cranked to start engine wouldn't start again. Sadly, it still wouldn't start. I tried to scan for DTC codes, but my scanner wasn't communicating. I checked all fuses, power and ground at obd port, those checked ok. but my scanner isn't compatible to read CAN network. there are only 4 wires intact for the obd2 port. Furthermore, I added fuel through the intake to the engine, no change at all. I checked for spark and injector pulse. These things weren't present. But there was power to injector with just the key at ignition or ACC and COP had 1 ground and 1 power as usual. Electrician from that garage, who also worked on the car said that he sniffed burning smell from the ECU, however personally I didn't when I went to start the car. I don't know how certain that was. Hence, I pulled out the ECU to a laptop board engineer to test the components inside. He said: "everything looks ok and test fine, however the IC he doesn't have the right tools to proceed with the test. With the ECU removed battery connected, Engine light would come ON. with ECU connected check light still comes ON. Before I left, I checked the MAF sensor 5 wires and noticed that 3 wires were earth instead of 2 and 1 power; no ignition current/ power was available for the remaining 2 wires. Please, what should I do to start the car?

Got a 2015 escape. Changed the cam solenoid and timing chain. Now it will start and run for about 10 seconds and shuts off. Do you have any idea what could be wrong

Does it need that Fuse in order to start?