Make sure it has gas, that was a big issue with us, that's why all the trucks get filled every morning. After that I got nuthin 😁👍WHATS IT GOT ERIC OOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
@@mikecumbo7531 Big Clive also frequents these here comment section parts. tbh Clive would take it apart and show us _how_ it let the magic smoke out, but I think even he would bin the thing afterward.
No but I remember hiring a flat bed truck to haul my Chevy Trailblazer home so I could cut the spare tire holder off from under it and replace the tire with a 3 inch wood screw sticking out of it. I took a threaded rod, bent the end of it and made up my own spare tire holder. In Michigan, those crank spare tire holders rot out in a winter.
Send it to Louis Rossmann, he'd use the proper amount of flux and parts from the dumpster behind the plant in China to fix it. Plus he's really big on Right to Repair, IE getting schematics and parts to fix your own electronics.
You should have said "Got it from the parts store that shall not be mentioned again until they sponsor me. No free advertising on this channel Mr. CEO!"
@@Heathenishism Arizona does use salt but it's not the same as other states use. It looks like rock since it's dark reddish-brown, but it's a natural salt mined in Utah that isn't quite as brutal on cars. That said, it's only used in the highlands like Flagstaff, the Grand Canyon, etc as they're constantly full of icy roads in the winter.
Imagine for a minute how reliable those modules might be if put on the inside of the vehicle, six inches away from where they thought it was smart to put them. But then they couldn't sell people a new car every few years.
Sensitive electronics and salty roads are a recipe for a bad time, my newer ford car needed a new power steering module because the plastic housing cracked and let moisture in. "Built Ford Tough"
@@raymondreiff8170 So the little Chinese guy wouldn't have as much to do since there wouldn't need to be as many made, Eric wouldn't have as much to do since it wouldn't need replacing, and I wouldn't have as much to do because this video wouldn't exist. We could all meet up for a few beers then!
It completely sucks when I am done watching a new video. Because .... now I have to wait for another new one. I've seen them all! Thanks for being so awesome Eric. My teenage boys and their friends are all car guys and my garage has turned into their garage. I make them all watch your videos so they see how to do things correctly. You have no idea (nah, you probably do) how much wisdom you spread around. You're the best! Thanks for being here!
I'd really like to know what that engineer was thinking when he/she mounted the FPDM under the bed. Why not take it a step farther and just screw it to the back bumper to make it easy to change.
Actually, putting it inside the back bumper would make it harder to replace. Some engineer forgot about galvanic corrosion. Zinc against steel don't go together.
Reminds me of communist Germany. It gets worse any day. Free speech is censored and Internet is censored and they want to force anybody to get that shot of vaccine that does many things, but will not help to fight the virus, It's just crazy.
Why can't I never live around honest and hard working mechanics like yourself, I never seem to have any luck. Thank you very much for all you do and the work you put into the videos to share with us!
I got burned too many times with my first two cars so I just said screw it if I can lift it I can fix it, so unless it's an engine pull let's learn it!
@@michaelransdell I did an automatic transmission without a transmission jack I used a regular 3 ton car jack from Walmart 2 jack stands and a ratchet strap it worked great, also used one of the ratchet straps to support the engine while the motor mounts were unbolted, after that transmission replacement that 2001 Acura TL made it to 275k before the muffler blew out and rust took its course in the trunk so exhaust fumes came right in, engine started misfiring it was time to junk it, used junkyard cheap $643 transmission that was recently rebuilt before the car it was in before ours got junked, outlived the car and it got parted out so it’s waiting to go in another car! That transmission had 295k on it as well at the point the car got junked because it had more mileage on it than our car did at 240k when I put it in!
I can fix and trouble shoot just about anything mechanical unfortunately, everybody and there friends know it. I was tearing washers and dryer’s apart at 13 , tore my first car apart and fix timing chain at 16 . Mom bet dad that it wouldn’t ever run again, it was funny when she came out of the house and the looks on her face, when she had told me that!!😊. But I’m 65 now and my phone still ring’s to much, my wifey says I don’t know how to say no. But I’m starting to learn, this body is saying no. I’ve had a reverse shoulder replacement and left knee replacement and right hip replacement, besides a four organ transplant. And many other operations also.
Not sure if you are familiar with RU-vidr Mustie 1 I use the old Toro lawn mower a couple of weeks ago. Self propelled barely does. Mustie finds my model lawn mower for free on the tree belt last Sunday. Fixes everything including a gummed up self propelled mechanism. Mine now has self propelled again.
Best thing to do would be to also subscribe to FordTechMakuloco. He does a lot of videos in Ford F-150's (He's a Ford technician), including how to redo the timing (including the phasers) and do the spark plug job correctly.
Common problem with a Ford. My 2004 did the same thing. Poor engineering to put that under the truck. Mine was hanging on the wires and the sides of the module was gone. It would start fine until it rained. I took it to the ford garage they replaced Air filter, cleaned mass airflow sensor and said it was fixed. I picked it up drove home, next morning tried to go to work and it would not start. Did my own research on line, checked the module and found it hanging. Replaced it myself, I think it was $100.00 or so. I paid Ford garage $250.00 for nothing. I also showed them the module I took off, they pretty much said oh well. I don't deal there anymore and tell everyone I can not too.
Engineers keep designing these things with heat sinks made of aluminum, which never plays nice with water and steel. I wonder if a barrier of plastic would slow down the galvanic corrosion.
The obvious thing is, that original module has lasted 14 years, the new module will outlive the rest of the truck, but I think if I owned a vehicle in New York, I would be under it protecting as much as i could, using rubber/nylon spacers, soft seal spray etc
You're the best, your methods of diagnosing problems and tracking down the faults is incredible, by far you are the best mechanic and technician I've ever seen, please keep making videos because I've learned so much from them, my approach to a problem has saved me time and HEADACHES, Thank you Big O
I can say with absolute certainty if it was me doing this job the studs would have sheared off at the first sniff of a socket. How the hell do you get away with spinning them out dry like that?
The aftermarket company realized that the aluminum sitting directly on steel was causing galvanic corrosion so they added a isolator to keep the aluminum back of the module further away from the steel crossmember :)
Here in Florida the cars die for reasons other than rust. One of my work trucks is a 2007 5.4 F150 (King Ranch package - used to be the boss’s truck). It’s got over 300k miles and keeps ticking.
Since that module was on studs with spacer, it probably has been replaced before. Original was just bolted down without spacer.. or did it get updated on 2007? I replaced mine (2005) before failing after I learned about this common issue. Back side had a crack and some corrosion, but still working. Better to replace before you get stranded. :D
Code P1233.ff pretty sure that has to do with the fuel pump not sending the signal no more which is probably why the Fuel pump driver module is offline.. probably the main reason why it won't start and its a Crank No Start Situation Eric O @1:08 @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
Can I have a damaged fuel pump driver module, Istill here my fuel pump come on? I got a 2006 F150 5.4 two weeks ago the camshaft positioning sensor codes come up, 2 days ago truck died. I changed both sensors to no avail. Battery starter alternator fuses and relays seem to be all good, no Schrader valve but I checked with QuickStart but it still didn't start. I'm going to check all my coils for spark don't know what else to do, going to pull my plugs very very last because I know they're going to break most likely, from the horror stories I've heard. Owned the truck for less than 2 months. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED
Been binge watching your stuff for the past month or so and will continue to do so. I'm going to hopefully be starting mechanic school in the fall once I've got my second COVID shot. Gonna be keeping all the things I've learned here in mind (or as much as possible, think my mental hard-drive is getting full) so maybe I'll get good grades, haha! Going for an Assosciates in Automotive Diagnostics and Repair. I love the hell out of cars, so I'm looking forward to it. Might even get into car flipping once I'm out of school and have a bit of experience.
On my '08, the whole housing of that module had rotted away and the bare board was literally hanging under my truck and somehow still working. Needless to say, I replaced it *Pronto*
I think they put it close to the fuel pump for a reason, but the new one comes with a revised mounting solution to stop the galvanic corrosion from having an aluminum module bolted to a steel frame. It’s been under there for a few years in New Hampshire winters and still looks fairly new.
Interesting how when you turn the fuel pump on computer goes hay wire and says no fault yes fault back and forth and same when you turn it off wonder if there is a chewed wire or messed up wire Eric O 🤔 @3:50 @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
With the fuel level at 62% it’s border line for the fuel tank to has to come down, if the level was 90-ish percent no need check further, the tank has to come down.
If you leave it on the ground and crawl up under, it's easier to take a lil nap if you need one. Just don't start snoring or someone's gonna kick your legs and wake you up.
Those Fuel Pump Driver Modules are Notorious A.F. for going bad. The dissimilar metals corrode right where they mount to the body and the case will literally blow apart and separate from weather and corrosion. Very common problem on quite a few different Ford models
An easy check for the module is to remove the connector from the module and install 2 15 amp mini fuses into the harness connector, fuses fit perfectly. This confirms powers and grounds, also get you out of a bind if your dead side the road
Yeah, have to. On my truck the T shaped hook at the end inside the bumper isn't really good for locking it in place, using a power tool will will make it pop off and younstop then readjust. Pain. This is actually faster. But I was surprised the power tool didn't break those nuts and studs off being so crusty
As a former computer tech I am very familiar with the smell you speak of. Very distinct and pungent. It makes for an EZ fix but only if the new part doesn't go up in flames also. :o)
My 04 F150 did this a few years ago, frame is super clean on this truck and didn’t have any rust behind it. The aluminum still corroded just like the one on the video, I think it was a dissimilar metals issue, only worsened by rust up in areas like yours. Trucks down south just took a few more years to see the issue 😁
I have replaced some pump driver modules myself in years past. I think Ford has a kit to allow the module to stand off from the frame to help keep it from causing issues again. Keep up the good work.👍
Can't help thinkin'(??) maybe it'd be a good idea to spritz a lil' contact cleaner on the connector then a bit of electrical grease to prevent poss. corrosion???
For the players at home, you can put a 20 amp fuse in the wiring harness module connector to effectively bypass it and put the fuel pump at 100% duty cycle. Obviously it won't work when the supply fuse is roasted, but it's a quick diag from there.
"There's your problem, Lady, right there. You got a crusty hole and it stinks and it's been on fire at some point..." I am sooo saving this for if I ever see my ex again.
Brian at fordtechmakuloco did a video just like you just did. He explained putting standoffs to stop the rust from forming a there's two different metals from the frame and the driver itself. Thought I'd share that!
Interesting problem. Looks like the aluminum housing of the module acted as a sacrificial anode due to salt water and oxidation ate a hole clean through it. The new mounts look like they might space the module housing and the frame slightly apart to prevent the issue in the future. I would be interested to know if the PCB in the furl pump driver module was conformally coated from the Ford factory. I doubt it. A piece of plastic worth a fraction of a cent would have prevented this if installed at the factory. Just put the plastic separator up on the frame when the studs are threaded into the frame then attach the module with the nuts. Maybe they thought the paint on the frame would be enough. They don't build them to last forever.
You should use a nasal rinse every few days to get all that crud out of your sinuses. All that pollen plus all the crap you breathe in working on rusty cars has to mess with you sinuses.
