If you have a 2004-2008 Ford F-150 Pickup and the brake warning light is on this video will provide helpful information as to the cause. Watch this vid for more information.
I had the brake light problem. There was a choice between the sensor at the pedals or the the sensor in your video. I decided to go with you. My brake light problem is gone. Much appreciate for your video. Cheers my friend.
Dude you saved my butt on this one I was so close to taking my truck to a mechanic for something so simple thanks man!!! It worked on my Ford Explorer sport 2000
I thought the same thing as my 05 only has 3 wires. What he is referring to is that one wire is Green with a yellow stipe and the other wire is tan with a light green stripe. The black wire is a ground.
My light stayed on when I jumpered the two wires. Took the dash cover off and pushed the left connector to the back and the light went off. Released it and the light came back on. Wedged a small piece of styrofoam between the cluster and the connector. Hope it stays off long enough to get my inspection done tomorrow.
Good video. I will try my rember this. My brother and I both have Ford trucks. I look forward to your videos. You always explane everything well. Please keep them going, Tommy.
+Thomas Tommy Will do, thanks! I have a part 2 for this vehicle I'll be posting in the next couple days. Probably some good stuff for Ford Truck owners. Thanks for tuning in.
Simple fix when problem is the circuit board in the instrument cluster. Add a 5 volt source to the dark green/yellow stripe wire coming from the connector on left side of cluster. I used an always on 12 volt source reduced to 5 volts. ( pedal adjust switch) The only disassembly is covers. Works great.
Hello! Great Video, Finally Someone that goes through all possible solutions and not just at the instrument cluster. Quick question, can you please tell me what voltage I should be looking for when the Wires are jumped and individually tested?
Good info. I'll suggest that the two 8mm screws holding the coolant reservoir in place are worth removing so you can lift it up a little to just grab those two tabs with a needle nose plier and not have to mess around trying to get them with a right-angle pick. A mirror is still really useful for that, but trying to get those with a pick is pretty silly.
I'm really hoping my fluid is low in my 2006. Has real low miles , if I had to change the cluster wouldn't that mean the mileage would go to TMU if you go to sell the truck ?
I just did a rear brake job on 2016 F150, and changed the brake caliper. I lost a lot of fluid, and dumped a lot of DOT4 back in, then bled the new caliper. The brake light won't go off. It ran very low on fluid, and now it won't go off. I don't think the sensor is defective, as it worked perfectly fine before the brake job.Any help would be appreciated.
I have a e350 Super duty van... quite odd situation. First the brake warning and chime turns on... then it goes over to the fuel... and then oil... it is sporadic. The gauges will zero out too. Then just stop. I am guessing a bad relay since there is nothing wrong with the brake, oil, or fuel levels... i.e. they aren't low. Before that happened, I had an issue with the radio turning on. I totally lost the ignition power line (the one that allows power to the radio once you turn the key). I can't see it being a bad sensor because how could a bad brake sensor roll over to giving me warnings on fuel and oil too?
+wtbm123 It was an unremarkable repair but I wanted to post this before the full length feature film im working on with this rig. Ill be including a link to this vid in the new one so people who want to know the diag process will have it here since I didn't go over that in the main feature film. Stay tuned for our next feature film entitled "Car Wars - The Ford Strikes Back from The Dark Side"
Great video and info!! Thanks! I have an issue currently. So I have a 2007 F150 Lariat 5.4L 4x4.. I decided to cut some doughnuts in the vacant turn around at my chicken houses. It’s a gravel road that had grown up to just grass. I did some good doughnuts spinning tires and high RPMs. Just not at high speeds, if that makes sense… as I was driving back with smiles ear to ear, I noticed that the ABS and Parking Brake light were on. I tried to disconnect battery with jumper wire to drain any open circuits, no change. I haven’t run the codes yet, but I believe it could be a wheel speed sensor… currently with 61,822 original miles and original hub assemblies. Any suggestions or thoughts on how to fix or diagnose this problem would really help me out! I’ll repost tomorrow what codes are being thrown.
I bought an 2006 with the light off and on I noticed the guy pulled the harness off the sensor at the reservoir. probably to pass the safety I plugged it in and the light came on. but also I was tapping the dash when the light came on might be needed to tweak the cluster with carboard. i'm not yankin the cluster screw that
+wyattoneable Just go around town asking Ford owners of their brake warning light is on. Sooner or later I bet you'll find one. Haha. Take it easy sir!
This many people with the same problem should be a factory recall. Everything is made to fail and break now days. Everything costs more and the quality is less.
Soooo my ford f 250 has all the dash warning lights blinking and says check breaking system and nothing will work. Any clues on what the problem may be
Nice video Tim with some good suggestions on how to check it out. I would have assumed that the brake sensor would be immersed in the fluid. But when you pulled it out, no fluid came out. I'm not familiar with this system. How does the sensor 'sense' the fluid when no fluid came out? Take care Tim...
+stuzman52 I think the float inside the reservoir has a magnet and the sensor that sits in a recessed hole just under the float senses the magnet and triggers the circuit. But that's just my theory. The hole is outside the fluid portion of the plastic reservoir so it pops out without loss of fluid. Glad you liked the vid and thank you for dropping in. Take care
+The Car Doctor Okay Tim, thanks for the feedback. It sounds like it's a reed switch which would explain everything that you mentioned. Have a good one and don't work too hard!
+mrexecutive1 You're probably correct. I have not looked closely at one of these yet. I have repaired some Chrysler clusters for solder joints. I'll look into that if I see one.
maybe a dumb question, but i want to make sure i don't screw something up, do you have to drain out the brake fluid to lower than the switch first? I assumed there must be some contact between the fluid and this switch and that wasn't mentioned.
Ok, I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed that. I actually rewatched the end three times, until I finally managed to beat the time, but not sure how much longer after the video it took him to blink. xD
Hi there! My car is a 2011 Ford Escape. I disconnected the sensor thingy and the warning light is still on. Brake pads are not worn out, brake fluid is between max and min and parking brake is not pulled up. Any other causes why the brake warning light is still on?
There are only 3 wires on the sensor jump 2 multi-colored wires. Drak green / yellow striped wire jumped to Tan / light green striped wire third wire is black. One wire will have 5 v presente if you test for voltage. My dash circuit bord solder joints where bad.
@@MattSGOG Thanks a lot. I just came from the junkyard today and grabbed two brake sensors. You answered my next question already about the voltage. Where I live, you don't pass inspection with brake light on.
@@renejacques8288if when testing by jumping the 2 wires to the sensor and the warning light goes out this points to the sensor being bad. Now that you have other sensors you can also swap those sensors in and see if the break warning light goes off.
Hi Doc, good to see ya. I have not had a ford truck(or car ) since 1984, always do chevy's, but i see a lot of videos about problems with them, makes me sort of glad I don't have one. Good video, thanks, see ya next time.
+joel mccoin well maybe someday a Chevy will break and I can make a video for you. Haha. I'm sure it will happen someday. Take it easy Joel. PS- My pastors name is Joel. He's a good man.
My 2006 F-150 has the light on. I do not seem to have any voltage at the fluid level sensor. With the key on and/or the truck running I have no voltage on any of the the three terminals. Where do I go from here?
@@THEGAME-tz6yu Yes. Mine turned out to be a defect in the gauge cluster. It was easy to figure out actually. (there are many videos on this) The dash cover was easy to remove, and the connector to the cluster is right on top. I just gently wiggled it and the light went off and on. I put a zip tie on it to maintain a little side pressure to the connector and the light has stayed out. Now, mind you this is only a temp and improper fix, but it will do for now to get me through inspection and then I can send the cluster out to have it repaired.
My brakes on my 2016 f150 work fine my e brake light came on full of fluid etc will it go off when I put new brakes on. My brakes don't look bad as well
Brake Warning Light, Still On After Fixing a Brake Line ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CiYnznl2E1w.html www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/brake-light-float-stuck-1068111/
