Quick overview of front lower balljoint replacement, don’t attempt this if you don’t know what your doing. This was designed as a quick video to help people with some experience working on cars
Mate. You're not wasting your time, and you are saving guys like me an awful lot of time, and undue expense! Please keep up the great work you do. Some of us really appreciate it. Especially taking into consideration your personal drawbacks. 100% worthwhile!
Awesome video! I know nothing about ball joints... infact nothing at all about suspension or steering. After a lot of head scratching and worry I found this video, ran down to supercheap and got that exact same remover tool, and was done in 30mins. Really simple, really great walk through, thank you!
Mine won’t budge, pissing me off. Just won’t go any tighter. I’m not a weak person generally either, so I dunno wtf. She’s in tight. Edit: managed to get tue C@&nt off. Boy she was stuck. A combination of long spanner, socket wrench and rattle gun did the trick. Thanks for the video mate
Cheers mate had to swap over the front lower ball joints as part of getting my RWC so I went and got one of the same ball joint press kits you used from super cheap auto for $99- and it worked a charm, great video bud, straight forward simple instructions, loved it, good work!!!!
Thanks alot for this video mate. Went to supercheap and brought the tool. Man it made life easy! First side took 2hr 30mins with upper/lower ball joints and strut and spring replacment too. Other side 1hr 30min. Work in the 4wd industry not cars. Was dreading to put in 10 tone press to push it out. This video and tools used are all in car no removal of arms. That was the missues BF now gotta do my XR6 ba and BA F6😁👍 Awesome video short,sweet straight to point in a professional way👌
Thank you. I just bought that tool to do this very job but couldn't work out what adapters to use to get the damn thing out. It's out now and the new ball joint is in the freezer ready to press back in
Just did mine this afternoon. Changed the sway bar links too as they are cheap and easy to do. Getting the ball joint started and getting it to go in straight was the hardest part. Passenger side was not too bad but the drivers side gave me some grief for a while. All done though. Thanks for the video, really helped a lot.
I'm generally pretty good when it comes to doing things on vehicles, but thanks to your vid I got this job done too. Had to go buy the ball joint tool ( got sold the pulley remover kit instead, so kept it for any job that will require it ) wondered why the joint wasn't coming out at first....then I watched ya vid and realised some douchebag was trying to push up instead of down 🤣🤣 so thanks for the help bro
Most difficult part is trying to line all the attachments n plates wtc so it actually goes on straight the most difficult was the upper ball joint for me
richlaso cheers mate, it’s quiet common for a buggered ball joint to creak and groan when you turn the wheel. I’ve come across it before on the b series, and a torn boot is good indication that the joint has had dirt inside causing it to wear and make the noise 👍🏻
Very smart, unbolting everything and putting it all back so you can make a video, Ripper mate. When are you going to make one on removing the upper ball joint?
Cheers, I wanted it to be easy and quick to watch so people can go back and re fresh on it if they get stuck. My upper left ball joint is getting buggered so will have to be done soon
tasmech does the ball joint have to be aligned a certain way when putting it in. I’ve heard of some cars where the thread part can only tilt a certain way. I’ve ordered lower balls joints for my BA and also a press kit but I’m worried about putting them in wrong. Just tried changing struts on the weekend and went through hell trying to do it. Spring compressors from Supercheap were useless and broke. Bloody springs are tough and not much gap between the coils. Old ones are back in after a lot of grunting and cursing. Going to have to get a shop to compress them for me. Thanks
You can do it either way, some prefer to buy complete arms online and just remove and replace. But I can't vouch for the quality of these compared to store bought arms which are much more expensive. I think if your bushes are fine then replacing the ball joint is the best option
You don't want to be pressing on the bottom area of the new ball joint. Use adaptor piece so you only press against the solid outer area of the ball joint.
unidentified user Yea mate could be a ball joint issue or a Bush in one of the control arms but also could be a sway bar link and/or mount Bush. Very easy to tell if the sway bar is knocking as you’ll be able to move it around in the bush. Good luck hope you find it! Do you think people would benefit from a video on how to check the front end out properly?
@@LiamHutchinson666 Thanks, yeah for sure as days of workshop manuals are becoming a thing of the past. I have been ignoring the knocking sound assuming what the majority had said is a common AU swaybar bush issue. After seeing a BA (same front end AFAIK) loose a wheel the other day from a ball joint giving way it got me thinking i should check it out properly. Definitely interested in how to for the front end video, ill sub and keep tuned.
unidentified user yes series 2 and 3 au are the same front end and suffer the same ball joint issue and it’s actually quiet easy to pick the problem up early Series 1 are the same as EL, EF models Thanks for you input 🔥👍🏻
@@LiamHutchinson666 Yeah it's a series 2 Fairmont and was 1 owner with country km. I was never a real fan of the AU but as i knew the owner an old lady and was cheap i had to buy it. It's really starting to grow on me and a brilliant car to drive. Im assuming the rough dirt roads has just rattled the front end a bit loose as both sides tend to make the knocking sounds. Iv had most models from all the E-series to BF and now got this AU. However the only other one i had this same knock sound from was an EL which was a fleet car that also did alot of country kms. Yeah a how too would be very helpful. I have never had issues working on cars engine, diff, trans, body or even replacing wheel bearings and rotors ect. However always looked at suspension components as the most daunting area. Cheers
Thanks for the vid, the new ball joints I've received have grease nipples with them, would you prime them with grease prior or after installing them? And how do you know how much grease to fill em? Many thanks in advance, that's a sub from me.
Very good and helping video. My Mechani is charging me $175.00 for each side but includi g the parts a total of $350 for both sides of the car . is that a usual rate guys ?
Sounds like they’re charging about an hour all up in labour + parts. Might be a little extra on the parts which is normal as workshops often add up to 70% extra on they’re cost price of parts
@@LiamHutchinson666 I ordered 2 New front lower sides for just $50.00 + $ 7.00 for delivery and will try to replace them myself. That's all save me $300.00.
Probably already done the job but you can buy brand new left and right control arms , new bushes new ball joints for $280 both sides , and swapping over control arms are easy .stuff buying a press tool you may only use once
HUNTER why not just buy some second hand control arms ? , I’m buying left and right control arms second hand for $60 he will probably take $40 , then all you do is swap the entire control arms out much easier much quicker
@tasmech do you find the upper ball joint or upper arm bushes wear much on the BA falcons or is it generally the lower bushes that are the first to wear out? Car has 280,000km
Hey mate I have a xr6 ba 2006 and quick question...would that be ball joints problem if the inner side was rubbing on the disc/rotor(If that's what it's called)? I've swapped the suspension but it's still looks collapsed, any info is good, and sorry if I didn't explain it right.
Yea mate usualy if the ball joint is completely flogged out, it'll drop out of its socket enough to rub the brake disc... And if that's the case you really need to get onto replacing it because your very close to a disaster! Another possible cause could be the hole in the control arm is flogged out and the ball joint has actually fallen out abit
Good job mate. Would U know if the hall joints on the ba is the same 200u ford territory Sy? I think they're 40mm on the territory. I just don't want to buy the 10piece ball joint tool if it doesn't fit and can't really afford the 23 piece set as I just bought the car and my savings are gone. Any help is much appreciated mate. On mine it's the ball joint for the Castor/Radius Arm. Thanks mate
Yea Same sort of deal in terms of removing and Installing the joint, you'll just have to double check that the ball joint isn't built into the arm as an entire assembly as on some of the territorys they are
changed a pair with my own tool that i made at home.. cant believe that ford built this setup , with the load pulling the ball away from the cup... duh!!
NahBro the whole lower control arm has to be replaced on the fg. Which is an easier job as you just have to separate the balljoint end from the steering knuckle and remove the bolt holding the arm into the subframe 👍🏻
@@LiamHutchinson666 aww ok man those are expensive! Is that reasons why ford decided to change the design? For easy replacement? or just been a atm machine lol
NahBro well they changed the single lower arm in the B series for the the 2 arms in the fg, so one for lateral movement and one for horizontal. I suspect this takes a lot of load off the balljoint that the single arm design had to cope with which are notorious for ball joints failing. And after you’ve done them a few times the hole in the arm actually wears out and you need to get oversized aftermarket joints or replace the arm... So the balljoint and arm as unit seems to have fixed the issue as FGs hardly ever wear out the lower balljoint and also the design is much better and more modern. Commodores have had a similar setup since the 90s
@@LiamHutchinson666 nice thank you for that info gave me a insight on why they did it..And your totally right about the load on the ball joints. However as totally just dismantled my suspension l did notice that the design in the lower area is awesome and yes well clevel to take the load off in one area. But the upper ball joint needs so love well l think for me may need the same attention things like almost hanging by a thread when they wear out yea?
Instead of having to buy the tool what about just buying second hand control arm just replace the control arm a second hand control arm is around $60 , thanks for the video however for one job you only rarely do buying the tool for me is a waste of money and they look pricey
It does depend on the situation and how cheap you can get a whole arm for, usually the control arm bushes only get replaced once in the cars lifetime, where as the ball joints in these cars are a problem and need replacing often
Sounds like a good idea. Supercheap sell Superpro kits for $359 for two arm assemblies. Other single units can be purchased. Any issue replacing a single side? Or should both be done? (even if only one side is faulty)
@@dunconomics definitely replace control arms as a pair and get a wheel alignment. As the new arms may be slightly different or 'straighter' than the old ones you will need the alignment adjusted to suit. Can get away with replacing single ball joints but isn't recommended
thegodthathatesall no the whole lower arm must be replaced as the joint and arm are one piece. But it’s an easier job just seperate the joint from the steering knuckle and remove bolt holding arm to subframe 👍🏻
Well changing one now and hammer not working this one stuck change alot of ball joints in my time and this one's not letting go hammer not working should show in video next show how it works
Thats actually what that particular moulding around the joint is for. You hit it with a heavy metal mallet until it releases. Works fine. Designed that way and fit for this purpose :)
