In todays video, Paul hosts our part 1 of 2 on building the RS Turbo CVH engine. We show how to install crank and bearings with correct oiling and cleanliness and how to fit pistons and Conrods correctly. Enjoy
Paul does an excellent job of narrating and explaining the detail. And it can only get better with time and practice. I hope to see more episodes featuring Paul. One thing that is needed and is easily improved: Use hand-held camera only when there's no choice. Or do a stationary shot(s) along with hand-held, and edit for the best after. Unless held very still, or the cam software evens out all the hand motion, it's a bit like being at sea. I was enthralled by the entirety of this! Lee should know that things are in good hands when he can't be about.
I certainly won't argue with what you said, for another reason as well as the ones you mentioned. When the Lee's videoing he likes waving his hand around which being 1/8 Italian and despite trying I always have my hands waving around, especially giving directions, even over the damned phone lol. Problem is the camera tends to keep focusing on his hand instead of what he's showing. For the wobbles etc there motorized are gimbals made for all sizes and types of cameras and phones that would hold the camera angle much more smoothly. Alternately I recently bought a GoPro 11 and the stabilization IN that camera is amazingly good. He could even use one like it WITH a motorized gimbal and maybe have it super smooth. As for my minor annoyance, I have noticed that if he keeps his hand at full arms length AND to one side it seems to mostly hold focus on what he's showing us, otherwise it would be good if he just used something like a laser pointer, maybe.
Amazing how common sense can teach you. I never had any formal training in engine building, what I see you doing is exactly the way I taught myself, and still stick to the basic "rules" to this day, 35 years later.
Same here, only difference is that was (well, started learning at least) over 50 years ago with me. Since then I've completely rebuilt several motorcycle engines, all bar the actual boring and honing since I didn't have the equipment. I've resleaved and completely a couple of tractor engines, repaired numerous others, worked in car dealership workshops doing anything and everything that came up, run a pretty damned big engineering shop with a proper tradesman AND apprentice BOTH having been told to take their orders from me, worked on and off for a total of about 6 years as a top rated welder, an agricultural fencing contractor, a harvesting contractor, an independent gold miner/prospector and other times during harvest seasons I've either been the harvester operator or a truck driver carting grain to the railhead or after harvest carting it 1,320 kilometers a day to an oil extraction plant, a furniture removalist. The only tech qualification I ever wasted my time getting was after 2 wasted years full time whilst losing the wages I'd saved to see me through the 2 years getting qualified as, I kid you not, a biological laboratory technician. That was such a ridiculous waste of time that I refused to have anything more to do with these so called "further educational institutions". Much better to learn yourself using common sense, looked up specs and probably most importantly, asking guys like Paul here for advice if not absolutely certain. I will add that other than oil changes and really obvious stuff, I wouldn't have a clue what to do if my modern car decides to break down. I understand the basic machine but, now they're so bloomin complicated all around that still the same principals engine. Plus, who in hell has one of those expensive scanners AND knows how to read and interpret what it tells anyway.
I fully understand lubing the bearing cap bolt but why "Always lube the other side as well? It doesn't even make contact with anything, ever. At least, not as far as I can tell or remember. Rust prevention doesn't even make sense in the environment it's going to be living in. Sorry to sound like I'm dumping on you, I am curious whether there is a genuine reason I'm not understanding or whether it's just habit while assembling engines you've developed over the years. You know, better to accidentally lube something that doesn't really need it as routine rather than forget on a part that really does need it badly. I am well aware that you absolutely do know what you're doing and care about doing it right. The fact you torque things in a pattern then recheck them speaks volumes about your thoroughness and, I do admire that Paul.
That oil pump Paul is called a Bi-Rotor pump. If it’s too be reused you should check the tooth clearance with a Feeler Gauge. The crank pins need to be injected with Engine oil once installed. When using the Torque Wrench, pull it toward you not push it away. I don’t want to be critical guys and I know you do a good job that’s why I watch but the devil is in the detail as an Engines life depends on it.
Awesome, maybe watching this people might realise why it cost's as much as it dose to have an engine built, thanks again for the video, all the best to yous and your loved ones
……great informative, concise video. If that was my engine, I would be more than happy with the attention to detail during the build & the in-build checks & pointers 🤘🏻
I use vaseline in oil.pumps. Does not run out or dry out. When started, the oil pump will draw oil in which then disolves the vaseline. The oil and filter should be changed in the first couple of hundred miles anyway. Learned that overhauling automatic transmissions and large powershift. The powershift were Allison behind 600HP diesel engines in mine haul trucks.
Great to see. Brings back so many memories of the race motorcycle engines I built.very good tutorial. I’m well retired now but do miss it so enjoy your channel
Me too. I've rebuilt several motorcycle engines, mostly 2 strokes, gotta love the simplicity of them. I've rebuilt a couple of 4 strokes too and my awesome converted Bultaco matador converted, bored, ported, a decent expansion chamber fitted (back when they didn't have to be muffled so millions of whip cracking eardrum busting power) which made a really good and competitive short circuit racer. Those were all enjoyable and satisfying. I hate all the incomprehensible electronics around modern engines, I don't have a clue with them, except that hiding under all the silly beauty covers there's mazes or wires, sensors and , , , things I have no idea what for. Modern stuff sucks. Says the guy who can't now imagine driving around Australia without my climate controlled air con lol.
Great memories of building race motors as well. Now.... those contemporary motors are vintage. I don't miss the traveling and busy schedules form event to event. I now restore those motors / bikes. It is now a fun vocation and retirement business. Be good. Stay healthy.
@@matthewharlowehrscyclespor668 . I know exactly what you mean. Have stopped now due to arthritis in my hands even though I still get asked. Really miss it. It’s the expectation of what your going to find and how the finished engine turns out and the customer is happy
Paul, nice to see you using quackhams, assembly lube is only good if the engine is going to be started within a few weeks! I live in the states now and I can’t find quackhams anywhere!! Ps. If you need anything from over here, drop me a line eg. Chevy good quality master kit $200.00 ! Regards, Sandy 🔧🏴
Great work as always Paul, your commentary has improved as well. Lee, any thoughts to expand the number of cams in shop so the guys can film either continuously like a security cam, or individual Go Pro style units they can use at each station on an overhead arm mount ? May need to bring on a full time video editor soon !
Great video Iv got another block im gonna forge i build eventually really good guide to build up The head one id be interested in as i may get a newman solid lifter cam
The gears are on the head, the bevelled edge must go down with the point down, as you have the gears now it builds less pressure, the flat side of the gears must go to the side of the plate friend I'm a fan. I used curil t2 as a gasket, by default it is without a gasket on the plate, but I did it so that the pump builds up more pressure in the beginning, the green curil T2 can dissolve with the oil and remains liquid hard not out very safe greetings
One problem with certain old triumph lumps was that the thrust plates dropped out so the crank would shuttle everytime you clutched it.The 1500 was a buggar for that.
A request please: as a 'Merican, I am unfamiliar with the cars that your engines power. Could you please just mention, as in this one, not only an RS turbo Fiesta (which we never got) but on other cars as well, e.g. various BMWs as well as the really interesting old engines you encounter now and then-like the old 3-cyl you redid, and even what the Ford 351 is from. Just to give us some context. Most of us have never seen these engines outside their parent car. Thanks ever so much.
Good looking build Do you think using just oil and not assembly lube is a good practice especially if the engine sits around for a while before being used
Wouldn’t worry too much. He Wipes oil with someone’s old pants, instead of lint free rag and then I suspect it’ll sit on the floor for a week with a dusty old bed sheet covering it. Not to mention someone using the air line, blowing all kinds of crap into the air to stick to any oil on the bore, crank etc.
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two things, you should have shown the checking of big end bearing clearance, and those big end shells have machined holes on one that usually fits on the piston side, esp for those engines that require piston pin lubrication
Having watched all your videos I was shocked to see over oiling of a big end journal prior to bolting the cap on with the recommended thread lubricant, oil was allowed to flow down the threaded hole of the con rod, this can lead to hydraulic lock, wrong torque reading or at worse splitting the bolt hole, I am have great regard for your company and your informative content but that is an absolute no no
