Ford Focus 2.0 liter crankshaft seal, timing belt and serpentine belt. 

Excellent explainer! You go beyond the actual job with great tips , like "install the serpentine belt BEFORE the engine mount". Mine is 2003 Focus with 208,000 miles. I used UV dye to find the leak and it IS at the front seal. I will do this soon.

Great video. Years ago I had a mechanic who replaced my timing belt and could not get the engine timed. Had no idea. I had to limp my way home and had someone with a special tool come and do it. I even had to pay this mechanic , Very through video. I am replacing my harmonic balancer and this is perfect. Thank you

I know you didn't want to do the vide but you have no idea how glad I am you did this. its helped me out tremendously and its the same engine for never models too. one thing I've found is that you don't need to remove the metal bracket in the middle if you are only doing the seal. literally just top and bottom plastic brackets and you can getaway with taking the belt out and sprocket.

Thanks for the well done video! Loved the bloopers at the end. I face this task on 2002. I would suggest anyone facing this task at the mileage I have that is close to yours to replace those motor mounts while at it. Side note. I have replaced water pump twice in 19 years and did not have to remove motor mount or lower engine. Once WP pulley off, bolts removed, pull pump out slight and twist around 180 degrees (pulley side facing engine) and swivel through that groove in frame. :)

Wow amazing video. Just I have a problem with my focus. Right now I have already knowledge to do it. Thank you very much. You helper than you think.👍

You are a great mechanic and I like the you take your time explaining , thanks for your video it was very helpful.

Nice video. I was looking for rear main seal replacement steps and stumbled on this video. I just replaced the power steering rack this weekend and hopefully that solves the leak from the power steering fluid now I just need to get my oil leak squared away. Although I think I've replaced the front crankshaft seal on this I'll probably watch the rest of the video :-)

Fyi for those still watching, you can't use the universal seals from AutoZone/advanced/orieleys etc. Has to come from Napa or Ford. It'll fit, but it'll leak

Mine just hit 235K and this seal finally went. If you are willing to replace the occasional belt tensioners, wheel bearings (in the hatchbacks) and stupid plastic thermostat housings, these little buggers wont die.

a very nice demonstration, surely it will help someone in need.

Hey Jo Daddy, nice to find your video. Same project on my '02 1.8Zetec (European) Focus. I'm trying to collect as much info as I can. This is the point of RU-vid :-) Thanks for your hard work and sharing.

The car looks Cherry, Add this one , Loosen all the Spark Plugs ( Do not remove them ) that will relieve any compression that might make the the pistons turn, But other than that you are Spot on !!!

Hello Barry. Very well explained. Glad you put the hand turning the engine ,before replacing every thing,has some engine's are interference type and will destroy valves and pistons,if the timing isn't correct. Very very important step. Again Great job, buddy. All my best. Bobby

As an attention to detail kind of guy you are, I'm surprised you didn't clean / degrease / hose off the engine first. Good video and tips.

At least it isn't rusting ;/ Nice work. Bout to post some vids of my 65 Stang that I'm doing most of the metal on. I have the confidence to do it from watching your vids, thanks for sharing.

Booger Hook = radiator hose clamp removal tool (At least according to Snap-On) I've done a few DOHC timing belts on Neons and a SOHC on an Escort. This is about exactly how I did it. The only issue I commonly had was when I would install the tensioner it would tweak the cam gears away from lined up. Usually took a few tries. Good how-to, tho, for sure. First one took me 2 days, 2nd one a matter of hours.

Glad that fixed it. You had quite the leak going on. At least before you didn’t have to do oil changes. 😆

Great job . :-) Oil leaks are the worst.

Bro!!! I’m late to this but you have helped me a lot man!!! Big fucken thanks for the video

Thank u for doing the Vid for us even though u didnt plan on it

Good video Barry on this thumbs up.

Well, I am about to do this in the morning to my 2014 focus... Hope it goes nice and easy like your video did... Hope the timing chain removal won't be an issue

You sir are amazing!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!! God bless you 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽

Is it a zetec engine cuz i suspect the front seal due to the oil being on the belt. Keeps causing the serpentine belt slipin

Can't wait for the body work videos...been awhile

Fantastic video.. I would like to do it myself but I don't have the tools.. I've been fussing about paying $500 that it takes now in San Jose to do this job.. I'm tempted to let it go because it's not a fast leak.. and only really leaks over 65 mph 2500 RPM

Good job on the video. Very informative! Well done!

Got to love the random t50 bolt in there!!! Makes me angry...

Many thanks Jo Daddy's,Excellent Video! I have same Focus mk1 2000 GHIA 2.0 petrol 150k miles and this video show me probably where is my big engine leaking and next week I plain to replace timming belt kit+water pump and the seal! Could you tell me please there is an any other seals which is good to be replaced,any part number for this seals? It is advanture and really difficult to find the right seal and I will greatful if you can help for it. Thank you again and all the best.

I know this isn't on valve cover gasket replacement but is it hard to do ? Had this " mechanic " say it's pretty complicated and can ruin fuel pressure pump if not done right ? And because of those two cam sensors sitting on top of valve cover makes it very hard to do ? He also said sounds like my water pump is going out and that if it does then oil and water will mix. Totally bogus right ? Only way for it to mix would be cracked engine or blown gaskets right ?

great job

To fix rear crankshaft seal , replace pcv valve, fix cracked oil pan on 2016 2.0L duratech engine they charging me $525 . Is that a fair price?

Great work

Nice work

What is the difference between a 2.0 Duratec and a Zetec

Okey vary you are the best theacher

THANK YOU...for sharing. Just saved yourself a ton of money, wonder what Ford would charge for that job? Thanks for taking us along.

Wow there's not a spot of rust anywhere on that car! Those things look like swiss cheese up here in the rust belt. You really know how to maintain a vehicle. I missed seeing Iron man , is he hiding somewhere?

Great job, how long did that actually take from start to finish? There sure isn't much room to work on stuff in that tiny compartment is there. When you put on the timing belt we never saw the gates numbers on top, and you said you rotated it, did you actually get it started briefly before you progressed any further? You are correct in pointing that out to people several times as a job like that is not for the faint of heart. You did an awesome job of pointing out each step and putting on the serpentine belt before buttoning up the rest of the parts saves a lot of aggravation waiting till the end to wrestle it around everything. Great job!

Good stuff Jo Daddy, thank you for making the video, especially when it was supposed to be just oil change day. Car looks great for 215K. However, a few questions came up along the way, first of which is: did you identify the fluid (water/coolant?) that came out when you removed the timing belt middle cover and the source? (Are you losing coolant?) What is the doohickey (black box thingy) resting on top of the valve cover? Is this a canadian car?? Compliments on the notes on the valve cover as well as the disgustingly clean engine bay. Really, except for all that fresh oil, it all looked pretty clean. I have a similar leak, but preliminary inspection of the top end of the timing belt and cover shows NO oil on the belt or surrounding, which seems strange as pretty much EVERYTHING else is soaked. May I ask if you did the water pump yourself? Reason I ask, it seems the timing belt, in common practice, would have been replaced at the same time, yet that belt looked distinctly older than 3 or 4 months. And it seemed like this was your first venture into this part of your car. You did very well. I would take exception to a couple things though, especially if this is your daily driver and even more especially if you might reasonably assume newbie inexperienced DIY "mechanics" would be watching this video before they tackle this job on their own cars. #1 You should have known going into it that you were changing the timing belt AND tensioner AND idler. If you don't know it's age, and you remove it for any reason, REPLACE IT as a matter of course. #2 Idler and tensioner would be wise to change with the belt, and unless known to be good (less than 60K miles ish,) water pump as well. #3 (And this is the big one.) !!@#!?#!! Those are the interesting words that came to mind when I noticed the valve cover still in place when you SHOULD have been setting #1 piston to TDC and verifying the cams were in sync. Unless already known to have jumped time, it's preferable to do this BEFORE releasing tension on the belt. There are a series of steps that would be wise to follow when installing the timing belt. (I would bet money that your intake cam is in sync with the crank, but your exhaust cam is a bit retarded.) Was she running just a tad rough afterwards? Maybe lost a percent or two mpg? HIGHLY ADVISABLE to consult service manual or perhaps a more thorough presentation of this job BEFORE starting. It's actually pretty straightforward, but well worth the time to become familiar with the procedure ahead of time. Other little things, but we won't get into them. Would really like to have seen the cause for the seal failure being found and fixed. I hope the new seal is holding up well for you and fixed the leak. If not, those other seals in the kit might come in handy...the little one with 3 holes is the oil pickup tube gasket, which goes inside the oil pan that none of us really want to get into. The crazy looking gasket goes where you indicated, but there is a corner where it meets the oil pan and the bottom half of the block (the part we really, really don't want to get into;) that's another location known for leaking, thankfully usually only after some mechanic doesn't put it back together properly. All in all though it's a job well done and THANK YOU! for taking the time and effort to post it up.

Booger hook !!!!... bwahahahaha, I can't stop laughing bro, I am going to use that, bwahahahaha !!!

That’s ya oil pump gasket

i would have put the dumaflachee through the wind shield

You are lucky that isn't the next gen 2.0 way harder

That's a torxs head bolt