GREAT video! This has been absolutely driving me crazy and I couldn't get the shop to hear it or pinpoint it. Does this cause any damage if it keeps being driven in this state ?
Yikes !! So that can’t be good for the teeth on the hub bearing and or the iwe ! Just Replaced hub bearing passenger side on a 06 f150 4x4. And now I have this noise from the drivers side I don’t get why a new hub on the other side would make it start havibg noise right away Did new check valves a few years ago along with the updated solenoid. Literally first highway trip after the new hub and I have sound. I don’t get it
@DD thanks! I disconnected it back 9 months ago and have not had an issue since. Driven like 40k miles like this. Just crazy that they know it's an issue yet they are still using the same set up. Even the tsb for this states to remove it. So why put it in in the first place.
@@itsallgooddan Quick question. So you just disconnect the electrical connector into the little black solenoid by the brake booster correct? Any issues yet? I’m driving from Texas to Michigan soon and might have to disconnect that as a temporary fix or I might just leave it
Seems that but way but it's s wrong. When the actuators are engaged (no vacuum) it is not in 4wheel drive. When 4wheel drive is engaged THEN the activator is engaged(or should be) thus completing the 4wheel drive engagement. This videos is worded saying the 4wheel drive is engaged when the IWE is activated which isnot correct. IWE merely engages the wheels to the driveshafts, otherwise the wheels are floating.
@SamSam-ke9zy except you are wrong and he is right. Did you miss the part where puts vac to it and it disengaged and then he removes vac and it locks?
So if I were to unplug the vacuum line supplying the valve, I assume that would leave the faulty IWE's fully engaged so they would not make this sound anymore? Then I would know for sure that the IWE was the issue.
I’ve had bearings, front diff and brake work done on my f150 and I still have a similar sound, this video is the closest to what the problem might probably be thank you so much sir
@@alhuthailiusa8151”Integrated Wheel End The IWE is short for Integrated Wheel End. This is a system that uses a vacuum to lock the hubs when you engage different drive modes on your truck”
Thank you - I've been having a noise that only lasts a second and usually happens in the first mile of so at low throttle. When I step on the gas the noise goes away. I've replaced the check valve and the solenoid but i still have the noise. It's very hard to tell where it is coming from and I'm a little concerned its the transmission but I don't feel anything slipping or anything. The noise you are generating sounds very similar to what I'm hearing. When I replaced the two upper components there was plenty of vacuum in the lines a day later so maybe it is the IWE units themselves. I'm trying to narrow things down so when I take it in I can point them in the right direction otherwise I'm going to get the ole couldn't reproduce the problem answer and waste a day.
@@bestofmma7043 It was the IWE units. They replaced both plus the hubs (not sure that was necessary). One of the new IWE units was also defective so they had to do it twice but that was under warranty at least - it cost me $1400.
@@scottyV1000 and question man when you hear that grind do you have your cruise control on? And do you hear the grinding noise even your foot not on gas pedal? Cuz usually hear mine when I’m 5 percent on my gas pedal cruising but I don’t think it does it when I’m not on the gas
I’ve owned a Ford Expedtion since 2017 and it has had this issue and required a solenoid replacement. I’ve been aware of this design flaw since I’m a member of an Expedition forum, but this visual demonstration is amazing and very underrated. Thanks for this!
I have a 2017 expedition and I only hear this noise in 4 auto when I’m on the throttle heavy, I’m not sure if that’s normal or not. I just got the car so I don’t know what noise or normal or not, but no issues in 2 wheel, and it’s definitely nowhere near as loud as in the video. Just a real quiet grinding sound but I can feel it in the floorboard just a little vibration. Unsure if it’s just the 4 wheel engaging or what..
Had this issue on my Raptor. It was the vacuum hub actuator. Its seal looked intact, but when u moved your finger around the entire circumstance, there was a 2” split on it.
Having this issue with my truck. Jist bought it last April, the people at the shop are saying they can't re-create the noise so they aren't doing anything about it. Spent 2k on a warranty and they're trying to act like they haven't seen or heard of this issue before.
Clearly and incorrectly explained. The wheels are floating till the IWE is engaged. The IWE activation doesNOT cause it to go into 4wheel drive. It merely locks the wheels to the front drive line sk when the TRANSFERCASE engages the 4wheel drive it will give power to the front wheels. Active IWE only causes the front drive shaft to move which has no power (no 4wheel drive) till the transfercase engages.
Hi, great video. I had this trouble once. The sound was because one IWE is engaged, and the other is NOT engaged. Thus the engaged IWE is spinning the differential and since the other axle is stopped (friction?) the differential is spinning the driveshaft by the spiders at 2x speed. So if you are driving 60mph; the driveshaft (and R&P) are spinning at 120mph. And it's being reverse-driven so it makes a lot of gear-noise (or because the spiders are straight-cut). So how do I know it is this? Because when I switch to 4wd, then the transfer case locks, and all things NOW spin at equal speeds (even though one IWE is not engaged so 4wd drive is not being made) and the noise stops.
I just found one of my hubs was manually locked and the other was in auto. Same symptoms you described. I suspect some foul play from some kids. This video helped to identify the issue. I switched both to auto and all good now.
@erwxn04 I took the locker hub out because it was old and needed to be replaced. But what actually fixed it was pulling the vacuum lines and the check valve, then putting the new set it. It took 2 hours ish. For the vacuum lines because ford sells it in hoke for $180 Canadian. And the hub was just the locker inside. Unfortunately that took 3 hours . Because I had it stuck on by the bolts .. but I'd assume a total of 2 hors if you have no luck lol. And I think it was about the same price for the locker hub. .. So a total of 500 and a few hours. Not hard to repair and then your good to go.
I’m getting this sound only when engaging 4wd. When I switch it back to 2wd the grinding/rumble strip feeling goes away. Do you think I can have a bad iwe that’s not fully engaging?
2005 5.4 here... my make bang noise no grinding only when I switch to 4hi I switch back to 2wd and go back to 4Hi and now working fine I think my actuator not fully angage and desengage sometimes that cut be the actuator or vacuum problem?
Colin, Your the best, Simple and smart way to show us.. My garage can't get to do the work for a week to fix it. Does it sporatitally. Will I continue to do more harm driving untill then? Thanks again....
Thanks. Glad to hear it’s not just a rattle and is actually metal gears getting ground flat. I love my Ford! Is a clunk from the front when the engine starts related to it? (2019)
@colchilibeck This is a great video, thank you for the explanation. If I have driven with this noise off and on for a few hundred miles do you think it would damage the hubs and require them to be replaced? I will start with the check valve to see if it stops but am wondering if I have done more damage?
Could this be an issue in the rear of an all wheel drive 2016 escape? I’m having an issue where when I accelerate while turning there is a grinding noise. It only happens while I’m turning and accelerating at the same time.
I have a popping sound right before im coming to a stop and right when im taking off doesnt do it til i hit a low enough speed any idea? 2005 f150ank u in advance
If u have both failing chances are its solenoid or a chk valve or a vacumn leak up top before it tees off and a pretty bad leak Rarely hear of both failing at same time but nothing would surprise me with this system i Absolutly hate it
Can you do one showing how the EIWE works for 21+ models? Or even better do a side by side. I am not exactly clear on how they work and I want to be more informed when they break in ten years. Lol
Sub'd thank you for taking the time to explain this. While not completely mechanically challenged, 4WD hubs are new to me. SUPER helpful! I have a '21 F-150 that is plagued by this, and I think I am just going to get rid of it. This will be the fourth time I've had it in the shop.
@@97VobraOwner Ive had the same issue. I have been to the dealership twice to try to show the service department tech the noise, and it didn't make the noise for them of course until now its bad enough. There is a TSB (#22-2219) for this issue, and it should "also" be covered under power train warranty if you're under 60K / 5 years. My grip is that I shouldn't have to prove it before they act on it. Customer concern should be enough.
Mine runs perfect in 4H. When I switch to 2H, I get the gridning noise from the passenger side only. I unhooked some of the lines and tested with a vacuum guage. At the solenoid, I'm getting 23-24inHg. The driver side, that is working properly is getting 23-24inHg. The passenger side, that is not fully disengaging is only getting 10inHg. Could that be the problem? It seems to be dropping vacuum right after the connection where is splits to go to both sides. 2007 F150 FX4. Any ideas? TIA
Thanks! I'm not so much hearing the noise as feeling it as a grinding through the floorboards at about 30-40mph. My 4x4 switch had broken some time back and I just replaced the switch and tested it and it appeared to operate normally. I guess I need to go through the workshop manual for the IWE and test it out.
If one IWE is engaged, and the other is not, and makes noise in 2wd that noise is from the differential spider gears being driven by the one locked axle. The center driveshaft is then spinning at twice 30-40mph (or 60-80mph) . If when you switch to 4wd, the noise stops, this is it. It clunks real hard goping to 4wd because the spiders spin the driveshaft at double speed.
@@t_sodo8745 I've already checked the proper operation of the IWEs and unfortunately the noise doesn't stop when AWD is engaged. I'm going to have to go through the whole drive train and see if I can find something. I just changed the driver-side wheel hub and bearing because I I was convinced that was the problem. No change. The only thing I noticed when I did the disassembly was that the rotor has a larger than normal rust line and the inner pad looked a little strange. The problem occurs whether I'm braking or not though and it doesn't get worse while breaking. It's driving me crazy!