That's a beautiful engine turbo set up.AND YES DRAW THROUGHS DO FUCKING WORK.The Australians have a rx3 with some weird drawthrough system were they eliminate the float and run instead some soft material.They have a return fuel line and 2 vacuum regulators.Some weird shir.It looked awesome on fotos and it ran 8 seconds around 150something mph.It had a big sidedraft weber.And BIG BOOST
I just installed a pertronic on my 72 2.0 Pinto with the Flam thrower coil as a kit I goit from ebay. I reset the timing, drove it and it kicks ass, 80 miles later it starts back firing and powering down on my way to the swap meet, tac jumps to zero then back up to normal. I pull over and car idles fine. but as i get in the gas it's having trouble picking up to speed while I'm letting the clutch out, I feather it, it gets going then bogs and backfires LOUD, lol at least 20-30 times while I'm getting her home about 5 miles away. I switch out the coil, still the same. then I start checking coil wire, alternator wires and a few other connections, No it's seems ok, I wish I knew what cause this for future outings.
i think i learned a few things while messing with draw thru on my 280z. the silicon hose collapsing shows the vacuum when the carb throttle is closed-that's what sucks oil out of a non carbon sealed turbo. that oil goes into the combustion chamber. reading many online sources have led me to believe there needs to be a vacuum control valve/bypass valve between carb and turbo and turbo and intake manifold. this will pull air/fuel through the bypass valve when idle-limiting turbo oil sucking. my issue is, should the valve be the entire diameter of of intake adapter between carb and turbo, or a port from the intake adapter? from online searching, the 4 barrel style "bypass valve" plumbing looked to be 3 inches in diameter. is that too much, not enough, or just right? im thinking it should be the same diameter of intake when bypass valve is closed on boost. help me, please. :)
Thanks , no not really any updates, I have no use for it , just had to build it :-) , no did not fit a carbon seal, but I will if it starts to suck oil thru
@@heinebach3674 listen. How did u build the intake for the Weber carb. I am seriously about done with this Lima. 😂 I’ve had it. I’m about to torch the damn thing. Their idea was stupid of this motor.
Something like this won't make big power due to the intake set up but I'm betting its very torquey and nice to drive not having to rev the balls off it..
hello, what carburetor are you using? Some DHLA/DCOE 45mm? Im planning to copy your setup (without the piston drilling) and use 0.5bar boost, but use 2 twin horizontal 40mm carbs.
This thread is like a time machine for me - I built a nearly identical kit in the late 70's for my 2L Pinto (EAO eng.). With a draw through system like this there is no excess pressure. The carb throttle plates choke off the inlet side so the compressor output side can go negative (i.e. vacuum) when you let off the throttle. The boost pressure is controlled by the piece you see installed in the crossover pipe going to the intake manifold. Using a preset spring, a shuttle would move to restrict the airflow as maximum boost setting was approached. This reduced the exhaust output and therefore the compressor boost. Very primitive by today's standards but it worked. I typically ran 8 psi (0.55 bar) and put over 100k miles on that build. The only failure was the T4 carbon seal at about 65k miles.
@@2103i Since the carburetor is on the inlet side of the compressor, it functions as if on a normally aspirated engine. That allows you to use the carburetor port for the vacuum advance on the distributor as it never sees boost pressure. In addition, the mechanical advance was altered with heavier springs on the fly-weights. This raised the RPM point where you had full total timing advance.
@@Micha-sk8dr pre ignite, From Heat, Have you ever seen a Turbo Glow Red, I have. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-c2eWHNSaSZU.html&ab_channel=Fullboost
@@fredscott4859 Well , I have no use for this engine, it was more proof of concept and a challenge to myself to build a compact draw thru setup ...if need be I have a AFR sender location on downpipe and will be able to tune it propperly , I also have several timing retard options both mechanical and eletrical build in my setup.
Can´t even really remember the process any more, look at the date of the video , it has been sold many years ago from memory to a Robin Hood kit car (road legal), and I have been making a lot of engines since, intrest in making more seems to grind to a stop around build no. 30 Pinto engine ...sorry
