How to replace the clutch slave cylinder and install the transmission on a manual gearbox Ford Ranger. This was a 2wd 1999 truck, but the same procedure applies to other years and models as well.
Thank you for a simple, straight forward video. These days, so many videos have 7minutes of crap to show a 2minute repair. Yours has shown all the important bits, made mention of the key points to note, has not underestimated the difficulties or frustrations that will occur when doing the job. I will now let the work mechanic have fun changing my dodgy clutch slave. I could do myself, but now I see that I do not wish to.
Simple and straightforward wtf are you talking about. He skipped the whole part of taking out the hardest bolts in the world. The mounting bolts that are uhhhh facing the opposite way and there is no room I repeat no room. No tool no extension in the world is getting that bolt out. Good luck I’ve been at it for 10 hours. Everything apart but now I’m going to put everything back on and drive it with no clutch untill the fkn pos breaks down. Pullin the tags and leavin it right there.
Hey man 9 years later and I can't thank you enough for making this video! Your chill demeanor and calming voice makes all this info you've shared so much easier to take in, absorb, and retain! Made my repair a complete success on my '95 Ex Sport 4x4 😎👍🏼
I was inspecting the transmission fluid level in my f150 and checked the slave cylinder. The tube for the fluid connection felt loose but there was no leaks. I was worried it had come loose. Seeing you spin it solved the mystery. Thanks man!
Your sense of humor coupled with your expertise is perfect. Reminds me of me, minus the expertise :). Thanks for a wonderful video, it makes my Ranger less daunting.
Good idea to mark the driveshaft before dropping it. Some driveshafts are "harmonically balanced" and must be re-installed exactly how they came off. If you can't see the paint from the manufacturer, just paint a line from driveshaft to one end....like the differential side. If you put it on wrong and it was harmonically balanced, you'll experience vibrations at higher speeds, like over 50mph.
You have my utmost respect, poise, grace, just effortless. I feel less of a man watching this however I now know what it takes to be a real man. Impressed mate.
That's a great, informative, clear cut, straightforward, video. Just finished a mazda b2300. Had a heck of a time with the hydraulic line " quick release " The plastic piece was damaged so I wasn't able to get it disconnected properly. The line ended up breaking inside the release bearing where it pins in. Browsed some videos after the fact and wanted to say yours is worth posting a good comment. Thanks
This is why I'm taking it to the auto repair shop, Yes I will cry when I have to pay but your video just confirms what my body has been telling me "Don't make me do it!" Thanks.
I took mine to a repair shop and they also put O'Reilly's parts in it. As in the video, mine too lasted one year, which was just beyond their labor warranty period. So, either way, you pay for the labor.
Super good video, sure saved me from a little bit of hesitation doing this job. Mine is a 98, clutch pedal seems to stick sometimes and sometimes super hard to depress. Thanks again for the nice video.
mine has the same issue- it sounds like. see my top comment- as it warms up the clutch pedal starts to pop up real slow, and the clutch won't engage, and then pressure builds up in the pedal to where it won't move at all. did you do yours yet?
You know, I found the hydraulic reservoir and added more fluid and it did the trick. I looked where the clutch plate goes back and forth and found no oil there. It works flawless now. Been using it for a month with no problems. The reservoir is located to the left of the brake reservoir next to the fender. Try it. It might do the trick.
So is Ford OEM apparently. I thought I'd get better quality ordering one from a Ford dealership...they sent me one just like the leaking one he shows in the video with a crappy plastic base and throwout bearing that doesn't spin very well, even being new. I think Ford is rebranding Dorman units nowadays and selling them at 2-3x price. And yep, there's a big ole sticker on it that says "assembled in Mexico", and the bearing comes from the Phillipines apparently... sheesh. Luckily I also ordered another one from Perfection Clutch that is like the new one he's installing. Metal base and bearing spins much easier. Kind of wondering if the older Raybestos slaves for the 80's Rangers wouldn't fit in the newer models, from what I hear they've got at least a 3 year average lifespan. Someone really needs to come up with an elimination kit like the ones for the 370z that convert it back to a clutch fork design with external slave. That's $500 I'm pretty sure most Ford owners would pay to never have to deal with that issue again
Just replaced mine too along with the pilot bearing and complete clutch, I had a lot of trouble stabbing the transmission back in, and I even used the plastic alignment tool that came with the rock auto kit. Ok put about six Strong bamboo CHOPSTICKS in the bolt holes as guides... worked like a charm!!!
Thats an awesome video, thanks for making it! Best way to prime that kinky hose from the master to the slave is to reverse bleed it. I took mine off and did it on a bench. I removed the pin and took the hose off of the clutch master cylinder. Then used a pump-style oil can to pump brake fluid into the nipple (master side of the hose) while letting air out the valve on the end (the slave side). Slave side up in the air to push oil in from the bottom and let air out the top. Once its full, flip it right side up and reattach to the master. Then bench bleed the master by "burping" it with short strokes until it no longer bubbles and the rod is stiff. Then reinstall. Guaranteed there is no air in that part of the line. You can also pump some oil into the slave via the bleeder valve prior to snapping the line in. Less air to bleed the better, IMO.
As a home mechanic, I would NEVER have gotten into the position that this guy does to remove the tranny. I guess some of us a braver than others. Thanks for posting this. I was looking at a local Ranger for sale at a great price that needed a new slave cylinder. "No problem," I thought. Easy fix. Now I know better.
I did a Jeep (1982 CJ7) a few years ago. On that vehicle it was easy to make a good knot on a rope around one side of the frame. Then wind the rope around the other side of the frame a few times. Tie the loose end to something that will keep it from unwinding and letting the transmission fall to the ground. Pull the transmission out of the clutch splines and let it fall. The rope catches it and then let it down easily with a floor jac and the rope. It's hard to explain it all but it may be possible to do this on other vehicles. I would use a rope and not a chain since the rope works better. It's got to be a nice thick rope that won't break when it catches the falling weight of the transmission.
That's a manual transmission. Nowhere close to the weight of a automatic transmission. I had to left a tranny back up into an old Mazda pickup the same way, holding it up with my hands and balancing the weight on my knees. You're not doing that before Auto trans.
@@minerblue9641I used 2 long 4x2 lengths of timber hanging out each side.. The ends of the timber resting on some tyres.. and then I remove a tire each side at a time and it lowers it down beautifully.. But I like the idea of the rope.. Yes I still use a hydraulic jack in the process.. Supporting it via my knees no way.. If something went wrong and I had to get out for whatever reason to do something else whatever I'd be stuck😂
Very Helpful, I just called it a day after fighting to get the trans in. But I did not do it from the back like you. I will go out tomorrow and try again. Thanks again
I pulled my trans from a datsun 260z with a floor jack and went trough the same pain like you. Kinda got me thinking to buy a transmission jack (or to make one using an old jack)
I enjoyed your video, and the wrench I need is always the one I can't reach. If it wasn't for your copilot kitty/gunner you'd be screwed. A word on Oreilly's Auto Parts (life time), if you want to spend your life time replacing parts we by from them they'll provide the parts. Anyone reading this post Be aware they have several grades of life time parts, Even when they only have one grade they seam to be no better. Fact I replace ALL PARTS on 2002 Dodge Dakota and 18 months later tie rod end pulled apart,the other tie rod end ball was loose,sway bar rubbers all cracked. only 12 months after replacing everything, Firestone told me lower ball joints needed replaced. Power steering pump started leaking 6 months after I installed it. the rack and pinion came with one half the tie rod attach witch the treads pulled off. when the tie rod pulled out of the end that was attached to the hub. And that tie rod end threads were pulled out. Were caught in the grips of a Poor Quality World, Were the rich exploit the mass population because they can.
Good work buddy. Learned a lot from this video as I bought ford ranger and I know I have to replace clutch in near future, so it helped me a lot. Where is the video prior to this one where you opened up starter, cross bars and all that good stuff. Thanks
Thanks bro. Got a feelin I’ll be doing this same procedure some day. But informative man thanks. As I’m sittin here mine lasted bout a year last one lasted two since I replaced the og. So I’m going on my fourth. And next time I’ll be more prepared.
Guys easy way to diagnose where the problem on these types of vehicles is, assuming air has already been bled from the system, is to disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder, and push with your hand(I used my foot and broke the pushrod, which I didn’t care at all because I had a new one, but if you didn’t use your hand), feel for the pedal firmness, if it’s firm then your problem is the concentric slave, if it’s soft then your master is bad(doesn’t necessarily mean the slave is good but at least you know the master cylinder is for sure bad). The reason why this works is because there is a Schrader valve in the hydraulic line, and it’s spring loaded, so if the line is disconnected from the slave it will close automatically, sealing the master cylinder hydraulic circuit, fluid doesn’t compress, so the pedal will get firm again.
Great video, must have watched it 10 times during my install! NOTE: The King Cab Ranger has the exhaust that wraps around the bellhousing. I had to remove (ie. cut) it before being able to drop the transmission. Then of course I had to drill all of the bolt holes out! Sigh. Everything else was the same. Thanks again.
cool video, that show lost was pretty exciting at first, ima bust out a ranger flywheel tonight my ring gear srtripped or something, your vids rock and the earth could be flat thanks
I think when you go to buy a new car or truck, on the sticker, there should be a list of the 5 most ignorant repairs you will have to make on your new 25-35,000 dollar purchase. My truck has 140,000 miles, I bought it new and this is why I will really research my next purchase. IT WILL NOT BE A FORD MANUAL TRANSMISSION. Thanks for the video , your attitude was much healthier than mine.
The integrated slave cylinder/release bearing is probably one of the most stupidest things that manuals cars have today. They save about 3-5lbs of weight by not having a clutch fork anymore. But a tedious 3-4 hour job just to get it fixed.
I made two alignment pins using similar thread bolts longer though .....grinded the heads off and slides right on...done that job probably 4 or5 different times .....you can just thread them out after one or two bolts are started n snugged
your videos saved me hundreds of dollars man, i did this on a 95 with 200k ohio salt miles so it wasnt easy. i read in my haynes manual to slightly lift the engine as well ( my theory is that it will help the shaft have a better angle to go in the engine. keep it up man
Damn beat me to it that would have been a heck of a blooper I was sitting there anticipating the drop and him hitting himself with it I was fixing to start busting out laughing
My clutch slave also lasted a year and I believe it was the same brand ad that one lmao but then I put a luk clutch slave in and haven't had a problem yet.
Where the fill line enters the slave cylinder, red rtv sealer around the tube. There is an O ring inside ,it wears out from vibrations. Mine lasted 7 years, changing it today.
