0:25 Dropping after 22 psi has nothing to do with the manifold. It’s because there’s not enough fuel. The ecu Is limiting psi in the higher rpm on a stock motor because there’s not enough fuel to support the air fuel ratio - boost controller is lowering your boost in higher rpm to maintain stoichiometric ratios. Bigger injectors, more fuel and a tune will see more constant manifold pressure. Match porting the manifolds is still a good thing to do.
Very keen to see if it makes any difference Need to make sure you keep the air temp the same before and after so the density of the air and the effect of your intercooler is the same Ideally do the before and after on the same day, on a Dyno!
I'm very keen to see if it makes a difference I'm about to fit my hybrid turbo and would like to port match the manifold if it makes a difference. Very great and helpful channel you have ❤
Thanks you once again for the amazing and helpful videos. I noticed in the prwvious video, you no longer run a catch can, is there a reason why you removed it?
Love it! I doubt the port matching will make any difference in such a low power/boost application. Maybe with a tune it might do something, but not enough to be noticeable I'd say. Keen to see how you go with the aftermarket chips.
Good evening .Congratulations for the very nice videos you share with us .I just bought a 2013 Ford Ranger 2.2 and I would like to know how I could see how mach horsepower does it have. 125 or 150 . Thanks a lot in advance.
what do you think about modifying the transmission oil heat exchanger for an air oil radiator, and also the engine oil radiator? it would be interesting, I'm thinking of doing this on my ford ranger 2.2 2019 75k
Hi AA, pls pardon me for a question outside the issue this video addresses. My ford ranger 2.2l 2015 has refused to start even though all its 4 injector nozzles spray perfectly. This problem began when it set a fault code p0341 and p2122. I replaced the CMP but that didn't solve my problems so in my bid to diagnose further, I took off the valve cover and physically check the camshaft assembly and when I couldn't see anything wrong, I coupled it and started the vehicle and it ran pretty fine. I shut the engine down by myself, so after awhile like an hour, I tried to start it wouldn't start till now. Thus far I've tried to check timing, compression, all seems to be very okay yet my truck refuses to start. A friend suggests I get a new ecm but would a faulty ecm allowed injector spray as well these ones do? Thanks for being helpful always
Hi Mate , sorry for asking off topic question. After blanking the EGR have you noticed any power loss or gain or difference in fuel economy or EGT temps ? My common sense says block it off but the experts say it lowers combustion temps and it’s a good thing. I don’t know anyone personally who’s done it so that’s why I ask . Thanks in advance 👍
EGR delete can be complicated with a performance tune and intake flow improvements. Presently going through this. Need to reset the turbo VNT min open position to avoid excessive exhaust manifold pressure, or it'll buck and surge at light load and decel.
