When I changed the upper control arm on my 2008 2wd Ranger, I put jack under the lower control arm that way preload is already set when tightening bolts because all the weight is on the coil spring.
Just had these and lower ball changed on my 05 Ranger FX4 Off Road. Labor wasn’t cheap that’s for sure. Plus I put new shocks and leveling kit on it. Just got new tires today. Truck looks great!
My daughter bought her first vehicle, a 2005 Ford Ranger FX4 Level 2. It’s in great shape, but will probably need bushings and ball joints. This looks like an easy fix, glad you posted it now I will easily be able to swap those control arms out.
Nice. I love the rangers and kick myself for selling the 4wd I had but a buddy needed it and I had my little 2.3l xlt just sitting around. 2000 with 100,000 miles and runs great and I love it. Will find another 4wd I'm sure, and I'll need it as I'm about to retire. Will be ordering stuff from your store now but wish you had a larger webpage. Looking forward to doing business with you and thanks for the vids. If not for them, I would not order parts. I think it's a way to thank you for a great vid.
You aren't supposed to tighten the bolts on the upper control arm until you let the truck down to add load or rather preload. Then you torque them to 83-103ftlbs.
JUST GET spray-on lithium grease. Spray the top and bottom of the ball joint.... The problem is solved for me. Mine squeaked with every turn and speed bump I hit driving slow or fast. It was loud and horrible sounding.
I think you inadvertently showed us how to add positive camber. Tighten control arm bolts BEFORE lowering vehicle?...hmmm. No cam bolts needed. (Only kidding)
@@jingles373 I ended up going with the non greasable Moog upper and lower control arms. Mevotech sway bar bushings and links. Cleared up my squeaking that I was experiencing. Thanks for the video!
What if the opening on the knuckle is to small because the owner had wrong arm n he tightened it up n it practically closed the slot? I've tried to use a chisel n open it up n have gotten it bigger but the arm/ball joint won't go in, I even heated it up, I can't get the original back in either, im afraid if I keep hammering on it trying to split the gap more it could break, anyone have any advice? Thanks for any help.
If you're trying to open it up while it's still on the truck remove the steering knuckle and work on it on the work bench. If it breaks go to the junk yard and get another knuckle. It shouldn't cost very much.
Nah you lied about how to get the correct ride hight you didn't even mention it and that's the most important thing to know especially if your posting videos for others to see and then they go do this and end up having ah ride hight issue that is completely off because of misinformation