While you're right that the rear gear oil helps lubricate the bearings, it's also specifically stated in the 1977 Ford Service Manual to pack the bearings with grease to provide initial lubrication. Book 1 (Chassis), Section 11-14-3, Step #14 - "Pack each bearing cone and roller assembly with a bearing packing tool, using C1AZ-19590-B (ESA-M1C75-B) long-life lubricant or equivalent". Just curious - how much gear oil comes out the axle tubes on your Dana 60 when you pull the shafts? I have an aftermarket Diff Cover which has a slightly raised oil fill hole for more capacity, and when I pulled both shafts to do the brakes, only a trickle came out one side. I think as you drive and go around corners, the fluid sloshes down the tube, and whatever happens to get to the bearings, gets to the bearings. However, to your point - excessive grease in the Diff Oil would cause the factory Trac-Lok assemblies to slip and not Trac (or Lok). I would pack the bearings, but I wouldn't add a ton of extra grease in the hubs like you would on the front hubs! Moving forward, I may also tip the diff from one side to the other after a service, to ensure that *some* of the gear oil makes it down to the bearings on initial rollout. This actually lead me down an interesting rabbit hole of "what's the right way to do this!?" - so thanks for the comment!
When you did the preload, you should be turning the rotor as you torque it so it seats itself properly, and then you should back the inner nut off and just hand tighten it on. If your inner nut is tight then it will put a lot of stress on everything
harry walker it was a truetrac lsd. No clutches. But yes packing the bearings not necessary on full float but I did not know how long the axle would sit for before getting fluid put in, let alone driven
Why did you fully Grease the bearings don't those bearings ride in gear oil (oil bath)? I can see dipping them in gear oil or lightly grease in them just so they don't start out dry.
@@thehonestbigot9341 It's an old post, but even the original Ford Service manual states to grease bearings upon reassembly, since it may take a while for the gear oil to get to the bearings.
If I’m doing this job on a rig that did not have power breaks from the factory will I need to upgrade my master cylender to one with a brake booster first?
you mean "parking brake". Those do not have to be mounted on the rear calipers. There are benefits to the front, and there are benefits to mounting on the pinion.
I'm installing a very similar kit, I elected to go with the parking brake option. It is available, the kit is basically the same except it uses 75-78 Eldorado rear calipers. The Eldorado calipers are the same size as the 70's Chevy 3/4 front calipers, they just have the provisions for the parking brake. I dont like the driveshaft brake, my truck ended up half way down the hill, open diff and one tire spun on the ice.
I know this was a long time ago you did this video but I just bought the kit for my 68 F250 and my wheel studs are too short and don’t grab the hub Did you have to get new studs
@@nickdresser5128 Do you remember what size they were and where you got them because I go to the auto parts store and they can’t help me maybe a part number
So i see you did the swap for rear disc....And i told someone else i was doing it and this is what they said...........What you think...did u have to do all this..?.....Thanks..........> then it's a bad idea...disc brakes have far different fluid pressure and volume needs, that can't be supplied byu the stock booster and master....also the prob valve n the truck isn't tuned for rear discs either...
On the Full Floating Dana 60, the wheel studs are pressed *through* the rotor and into the hub. The splines on the studs hold them in place. Unfortunately, I don't have any info on how the newer Sterling Axles work.
I elected not to drill. I believe they were the 9/16 upgrade. If recall right. Close enough to original spec. I hammered those suckers home and called it a day.
Jessica Payne I got the kit for the d44 and the rear 60 for 1979. All extremely easy to bolt together. Highly recommend them. They guarantee to be the cheapest I believe.
