Ford SuperDuty Battery Saver Relay Cluster Repair 

Try rose alloy for desoldering chip packages .. brandname chipquick. It mixes with the tin and stays molten long enough to heat all sides and allows parts to just magically lift away. I use it with my smd repairs. No worrying about overheating the traces. Not saying you needed it for this project but removing cpu/mcp and roms.. easy.. seen you do these in the past

@@Astinsan I actually have some chipquick low melt solder and I've tried it. It never really stuck with me, I just hot air chips off. I have a nice assortment of nozzle tips.

@@jeffescortlx maybe gauge cluster boards are more forgiving than a macbook logic boards. Multilayer boards do weird things without a preheat tray. The stuff is a life saver in a pinch

@@Astinsan maybe. The only time I need to pull out the pre-heater is if I'm going to remove a microprocessor.

@@jeffescortlx I would imagine some of those are more micro controlers... cpu’s with a small program inserted. You ever have to jtag or canbus the units?

I think they are only in on it for the benefits.

You have a microscope and hot air station?

@@jeffescortlx im an electrical engineer and I've got a USB microscope but no air station just a good soldering iron. I fixed the HVAC module in my corvette earlier this year that had cracked solder joints that made the screen not come on. Those parts are a lot bigger than in the Ford cluster it seems...

It's possible, but I'm not familiar with that particular cluster/year.

It's in the video description, just below the video.

AMTECH it's great. I purchase it directly from Louis Rossman to make sure it's genuine.

8:43

​@jeffescortlx how to contact you

Thanks you to!

You have to apply power to not only the continuous 12 volt supply but all the ignition circuits too if you want it to fully turn on.

How does the motor connector look? Typically the motor connector is the lower part the the blower box and that where all the moisture drips that is collected.

@@jeffescortlx they have been checked and preped for good measure lol

I believe with the sportrac the truck wont even start when the cluster goes out.

Your welcome

The cluster could be responsible for some of those problems. Don't throw out the original cluster until your 100% sure you have the proper replacement. Different trim models have different clusters, plus the odometer value is stored in the cluster. So if you toss in a high mileage junk yard cluster, you could devalue the vehicle by thousands.

If the gauge sweep test is fine, and if the sending unit is working fine, than yes it's probably just a fractured joint. As you can tell from the microscope footage about 3 resistors were fractured.

Yes 2002 to 07 super dutys run the radio power through the cluster.

Sorry I don't have a board here to reference. The resistor end is completly broken off?

Follow the sending unit traces on the cluster PCB, there will be a couple resistors not too far from the connector that are known to fracture. They might be colored blue, but I could be wrong, I'm just going off of memory.

For the clusters I work on, neither need a BCM to test. With the Ford's it's all built into the cluster, can be started through the trip button. With chevy a scan tool can talk directly to the cluster and trigger a test.

It depends. If it's ONLY the MPH acting up, then it's maybe not the cluster at all, but a incoming signal issue. But if the entire cluster is intermittent than it probably has the issues covered in this video.

Which part of the process are you looking for help with?

@@jeffescortlx I'm looking for a step by step on how to fix it myself, as you showed with the other gauge cluster. I have the skills and the tools, I just need to know where the common points are that need solder added.

​@@hershelr.sullivaniii7139but I did show step by step directions for that style. It's in the second half of this video.

T-12 soldering station with j02 tip. Microscope and good flux and solder. Hot air station is nice for doing microprocessors.

I'm sorry I do not. But I can recommend contacting Matt from the channel fixed until broken. This sounds like something he would have experience with.

Probably could be yes

I have the 05 with the turbo boost

@@bryantvance1302 this video covers the common problem areas. If it still isn't working correctly you might need to send it out.

Sorry I'm not sure. I haven't run into this one yet.

Battery saver circuit is not related to the fuel gauge operation. But it could be a internal cluster issue. Could also be a problem at the sending unit. I'd recommend to run a gauge sweep test. I have a video on that if you need.

That's your meter in tank sends faulty information.

@@jeffescortlx How much for this type of job?

@@slavikonufriychuk3485 for quotes I can be reached through email, available in the video description.

Since they are user serviceable you'll be fine with just about any if you stick with incandescent.

If everything matches up I believe so. I've never tried. Sometimes the prnd321 display changes.

With these years of Super Dutys, the instrument cluster does not have any control over the headlights.

It looks like with the 2006 design there is a wire on the instrument cluster labeled headlamp switch tail lamp and side markers A7 pin.

Thanks for information.

I should have mentioned in my earlier comment that I was referring to 05 to 07.

@@align700n fractured joints for the VFD display. Probably in the hot wire circuit somewhere. Could be in the power supply section.

With this year range, typically the instrument cluster itself will be dead along with the radio/windows. You might have just accidentally popped a fuse.

Circuit board medics does good work.

2006 f350 turbocharged super duty 6.0

@@kenniemouser2090 yes I'm still repairing these clusters. My email address is available at the bottom of this video description.

I'm not very familiar with the Ford's, but it's possible because your not the first person to ask me this.

Yes, that's exactly what this video is for.

As of now this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MrIkR7PT_RM.html

No just the regular mustang version.

The instrument clusters in this video only go back to 2002. Your 2000 is not the same and of a different design.

That cluster is a little different, but if I remember correctly it has a similar problem.

Yes it is flux. Mint jelly not recommended.

Pretty much every cluster past 1996 (obd2) uses the data bus in some form or another.

Can you send me a picture?

@@jeffescortlx What’s your email and I can send you my number so I can text the pics through text and I have 1 video as well

@@jeffescortlx Sent a video and picture via email.

@@alexharper9786 got it.

I'm not sure off the top of my head. I haven't looked into the wiring diagram for a while. What is the original issue you're trying to solve?

@@jeffescortlx What I'm wondering is if the Cluster short could be the issue why my ESOf switch inside the cab refuses to engage 4x4. I've been chasing the problem down and wanted to see if they were connected. I know the 4x4 icon is in the cluster and it does light up when first started. My next tests will be the control module and T-case shift motor. It's hard to do all this without my Forscan program but it won't be here until Friday now.

Yes I'm still offering instrument cluster repair service.

Ford instrument clusters have a reputation of fracture solder joints at a resistor that cause the brake light to illuminate when it should not.

@@jeffescortlx Do you recall which resistor?

​@@bobbyshaftoeI think it's labeled [801] it's a fairly large package. I don't remember going off of memory but if I saw the board I'd recognize it.

Unfortunately there is no 801 :-/ I [PAINSTAKINGLY] inhaled lead fumes for a good couple hours while I reflowed *all* components on the board (both sides) including the IC's. Amazingly, I didn't break anything! Unfortunately...this didn't fix the Brake light+dinger situation. Is there any chance you can think of which resistor that might be? Or, if it's some kind of input voltage biasing resistor? I suppose it must be connected directly to one of the input pins (either the parking brake pin, the brake fluid level pin, or the pin that goes out to the 'generic sensors' box (I forget the name of it, but it must be the one that presents the OBD). Because the LED circuit's biasing resistors are downstream of the IC(6) which also (correctly) signals the chime/dinger to fire off (THAT gets annoying, btw) I am pretty sure that 'downstream of IC6' circuit is good to go. Thanks again for your advice and vid! @@jeffescortlx

​@@bobbyshaftoeit's a fairly large SMD resistor, not too far from the connector, just don't remember if it's the left or right side. Are you sure the brake fluid sensor and e-brake switch are not causing the issue?

For quotes and information please contact me at 1mr.repairman@gmail.com

Try a sweep test: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-so7cuTRLibc.html

If you're sure that the needle has been reseated in the correct position, and if the stepper motor isn't reading correctly, more than likely there is either a short or a break in the connection for that stepper motor.

​@@jeffescortlxhmmm. Its all of them. *they were all functioning fine prior to reflowing ic6. I removed ic6; cleaned the pads, reflowed. All the needs are outta wack.. but they all move correctly [speedo goes up when speeding up, tach goes up when accelerating, fuel need drops with consumption ..etc.

​@@bobbyshaftoe45it might just be a matter of reseating the needles back into the same orientation with the stepper motor shaft prior to the first needle removal.

@@jeffescortlx I just removed the clear cover..with everything plugged in.. then I just popped the needles and put them where they needed to be :-)

This video covers the common problem spots in these clusters. That's flux you see being used on the joints.

@@jeffescortlx Thanks for replying. I had the cluster out before but I did not check the solder points on the resistors. I'll pull it back out and look those over.

@@marka.2715 The solder joints on the resistor network packages are too small to see with the naked eye.

@@jeffescortlx I'll get something to magnify the board with

I like to think I'm a pretty good place to send clusters to for repair.

Yes it's possible for fuel gauge issues to be caused by cluster PCB problems.

@@jeffescortlx ok thanks so I should send it in to circuitboardmedics

@@Bankablefoil you could. Otherwise if you want to support the little guys here is a list of technicians that might have someone local to you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T_2WnJMsZaU.html

Leaded.

@jeffescortlx thanks! I got a solder station on the way and some tacky flux. Got out the microscope and found a bad solder joint on the blue connector, third pin from far top right. Will also hit the ones in your video. Need to see if the factory prints I have show what this pin goes to.

I can be reached for a quote at 1mr.repairman@gmail.com

I can send you a PDF. My email is in the description and the top comment.

This video covers up to 2007. Does your 08 look like the one in the video?

@@jeffescortlx I need someone to fix my cluster 2008 do you know someone reliable

@@soellopez1151 sorry I don't.