Did something similar to this 10 years ago with a 19 by 20 carport I bought second hand off Craigslist. $300 for the carport, $600 for new sheet metal and 2” red steel square tube, $350 for an 7’ roll up door. Big mistake I made was not putting it on a slab. It was on a gravel floor like yours and everything grew mold including the interior panels and all my equipment. That would be my only suggested change. Nice job!
@@magicone9327 It was just exposed metal. Had I known how much moisture would come up thru the gravel, I’d have put 6mil plastic down before I spread the gravel. I’ve since poured a slab and dragged the shed on to it. Much better now and absolutely no moisture issues for the past year.
Great ideas. Usually only see this ingenuity in my own welding/fabrication profession. Thats basically how I enclosed mine but with a garage door instead. Great job! Thinking ahead👍👍👍
I love it. Simple and functional. Hopefully will be borrowing some of these ideas here soon. You might think about putting a piece of tin a few inches into the gravel before adding more gravel. It would help keep the wind and critters out of your shed. Do like a 5 inch tall piece you can replace easily if it rusts.
I did something similar. The biggest differences is I had the sides installed, then a concrete floor poured, then framed the ends with 2x4 attached by rivet nuts and bolts in the attachment points with the carport. Anchored the bottom with concrete anchors. Framed in a walk in door an a barn door that’s a similar design.
Not to be a downer but you should put double door on each end. I bought a property with one of these on it 20x50 with 15’ of it closed in with a 8’ garage door and a small window in the back. In the summer it was so hot I couldn’t stand to be in it for more than 5 minutes. Tore it down and put up a wood shop in place of it. But those shade trees should help. Course I live in South Texas where the summers can melt steel. Good job 👍
This is exactly the video I was looking for it’s not the same as mine as mine an old carport that is wood structure that is solid and kinda like a mini pole barn that we used to use to cover a section of are dog kennel when we had coondogs and it’s concrete pad etc, but the roof slants all the same direction but we already closed the sides and I wanna frame it and put swinging doors on it so I can use it as a shop instead of kicking cars out of the garage to work on something or do motor swaps in
Very nice. I am going to use aluminum for the doors because of the weight. I wonder how oversized rivets would work instead of the framing bolts? Maybe easier to cover with the tin installation due to the bulging from the bolts sticking out.
Looks really nice, thanks for sharing. My concern is issues of mold and rust due to moisture getting in through the gravel. Did you do anything to prevent this or has it not been an issue for you?
Did you have problems with door/hinge swing clearance after installing siding? Those style of butt hinges with no swing away clearance to by pass finished wall thickness always cause interference. If the but/ Boss of the hinge is connected between the wall and door frame you can then extend the hinge knuckle outward for clearance of siding and the the door will open without pinching the wall. In this case the door will only one as far as the roof line drop interference allows and it will still not open to 90° without pinching if siding is not set back from hinge swing area.
They work great, I can swing both doors open to about a foot away from the building. I have had enough hinge mistakes to know what you mean though. Had to learn the hard way lol.
I'm trying to box my carport in how many sheets of osb board will I need and 2x4 will I need? It's has a concrete floor and I want to box it my car saab in parked in it now how big it is plz give me a idea how many sheets and boards I need please and thank you
Well Done! Thanks for showing all your details. What did you use to paint some of your frames? I like that you have put HD bent rebar (#4's?) into the ground as hold-downs. Did you set them into conc. by chance or just hammer into ground? Was a permit required for this by chance? I was thinking of getting one of these myself but didn't want to have to deal with the headache of permitting. And, we do get lots of snow here in N.E. PA, so I would have to consider the perlins on mine (great suggestion Gene). To considerably strengthen you front door wall/frame, I would really suggest you put in a diagonal support brace (flat bar maybe?) from the bottom hinge corner to the opposite upper corner (on the inside of the frame) near the eave on each bay on either side of the doors to prevent the weight of the doors from racking those individual bays...maybe even a diagonal inside each door panel as well. Lastly, I would strongly recommend installing a light-gauge angle over the top seam of your doors (along the header) that you can put a slight outward/downward pitch to the bottom leg to help shed water (drip edge - at least a 1-1/2" bottom leg). This will make the doors last so much longer. Good luck!
I called in a location on utilities before the carport was installed, to make sure the area was safe for driving the rebar. I used marine grade steel enamel paint on all the framework.
Great job! Here is what I've always wondered about when doing this. Under high wind the lift that buildings are under caused by the difference between the inside high pressure under the roof, and the low pressure outside above the roof. This difference in pressure causes a lift against the buildings anchors to the ground. Just like an airplane gets its lift from the pressure difference between the areas above and under their wings and it's body. When closing in a building that pressure difference is greater since the building is now closed in and the high pressure inside cannot escape readily to equalize and abate the lift force. If additional hold downs/anchors aren't used the building runs the risk of wind lift and damage from the event. Thoughts. Am I crazy? Am I overkilling?
Do you get a snow load? because in between every 5ft span with just 4 inches of snow you will have approx 1700 lbs of snow with 8 inches you will have approx 3400. ‘’About 7000 14000 lbs total.you will make that metal roof into a bathtub suggest you run some purlins in between and some cross ties. Or it will fold like a lawn chair if you don't get snow you should at least put cross bracing for wind sheer. don't take my word for it ask an engineer. I don't want to see all your hard work come down to good luck.