We framed the interior of our Carolina Carport also, but in a different way. We're going with closed cell spray foam for insulation....beware of condensation on the inside of the metal siding if you are going to heat/cool that space. Lots of good info (and failed attempts) on YT on mold prevention, but basically 2" of closed cell foam directly on the metal is proven.
Can't you just run vapor barrier on the outside of the frame under the siding and mitigate that issue? Concern with spray foam directly on the metal is that now you've made a structure that cannot be resided without having to be reinsulated. And its metal at the end of the day its going to rust and eventually need to be replaced.
So many questions and many doubts. By the end of the video, everything was answered. Thanks, brother, for educating those who are hungry for this knowledge, God bless for taking the time to teach! Earned a new subscriber
I always attract 3/4 of an inch that way your drywall lines up on the center of your 16 on centers and not at the edge also might not be a bad idea to put sill seal under the treated.
I just bought a property that has a 30x40 steel building. I’m thinking it might be easier to just use tongue and groove plywood and screw it straight into the steel studs to cover the walls/insulation inside.
That might work. I just didn't want the extra weight on the building which is why the framed structure is completely independent of the metal building.
Really appreciate your videos though. I am in the process of putting up a 24x40 metal building that I am going to be converting into a “barndominium”. I’m planning to run electrical, plumbing and wood frame the inside similar to how you did. Planning to use spray foam as an insulation and then drywall and finishing. These videos for a DYI’er are super helpful and I will definitely be referencing these for the future!! I don’t feel comfortable doing the electrical and plumbing myself but the framing is something I was worried about doing because I’ve only done small wood projects like tables before but you do a really good job explaining everything, thank you for the content!!
I am definitely considering this for some land I am purchasing soon. Thanks for encouraging people to learn a trade versus always feeling pressured into college. 😮
@@brettleybuilt, I'm not getting it? If you have a slab poured, why can't you build a wood framed shop on it without building a metal shop first? I'm not being funny, I really don't get it. Where does extra digging or excavation come in?
I could get a metal Carport and save tons of money. Making it into a house 👉👉wood frame the inside and its already dried in, to work under. go ahead and use the metal sidings, and roof can brick in the sides later ect
How did you get around the condensation with the metal siding and the concrete? We're doing a blueboard that has a moisture barrier to prevent condensation and molding. Also ran a sealant along the bottom sill plate (which due to code, couldn't be a pressure treated lumber) with a plast sheathing. To help prevent moisture damge and allowed condensation to exit.
Trades is always the money maker on the weekend . First thing my boss taught me . Bid a roof on a big ass doghouse and so on the next 20 years busting ass on weekends . First and foremost know how to produce a finish product and cleaning for customer and never get a call back
you just built another structure inside the other. why not just build the structure with wood. then put metal siding up? we call that a pole barn around these parts.
I just subscribed after you showed everything which I don't see on other videos. My neighbor in Florida where I lived for 11 years had a building like this put up but he had no concrete floor and I don't think it was anchored then hurricane Irma eye came pretty much over my house. His building was totally destroyed all turned into scrap.
Will framing the walls help with structural support? Say in like a prefab build and you want to conjoin 2 separate rooms will this help keep the structural integrity?
All of my framing is independent of the metal building, so it doesn't effect the metal building. If your framing is very strong, then it could be beneficial to tie everything together, but I liked the idea of keeping everything independent.
now why put the pressure treated wood directly onto the floor? Sure you lose a few inches of your shop oh well, but instead you could place it ontop of the metal bar across the foundation.
The wood frame inside stands by itself on purpose. I don't want the metal building supporting the wood frame as the building has its own loads and I don't want any stress on the building.
I can appreciate your time and effort in this build, but you should have done more research as to how to build the wall especially around your main panel for the building. Your tie in should be done with a 2x4 like you did at the bottom plate. The top plate should have been done the same way.
The main factor we considered was excavation. We live on a rock pile and digging holes and footers have been a nightmare in the past. Another factor was sheeting the building with osb. With prices so high at the time, we calculated the area of osb for walls and roof and it was right around $2300. The siding and roofing were basically included in the price of the metal building where if we stick built or did a pole barn these would have had the cost of a roof and siding or metal. The building was $9,300 installed, with a garage door and man door. I got a usable building in a day. I work a lot so if I had to find time after work to build the building I probably wouldn't have even had trusses set at this point. This was a really special case for us but others have reached out to us saying they have done the same thing. Here we thought we were the only ones.
I don't understand why you're wasting money and materials to build a 2x4 wall next to an existing metal wall why don't you just attach whatever you're going to attach that stupid 2x4 wall to the metal wall and save a lot of money material and environment what you are doing is a waste of time money materials and resources
Great to see someone to talk about trade school. People spend thousands for college and then go try to put it to use and not pay back the loan. My son went to Bellingham Technical School and learned electronic instrumentation and makes $150 to $200.0000 a year my daughter is an accountant for a large firm making good money. Her husband is a manager at a different accounting firm. The boy was 16 and the girl 9 and when they came here they couldn’t speak a word of English and now are leaders in the pack. I worked heavy construction on roads and bridges and my wife a waitress then owner of Thai restaurant. We have worked hard put both thru school bought 2 homes and helped both kids into home’s ‘they are buying. Don’t tell us the American dream is dead you just have to want it bad enough and be willing to work for it. I’m 75 and just poured 11 yard slab ,having a metal building put up for a wood shop to be my playhouse. Looking forward to framing the inside walls for my shop, my other shop is full of classic cars and tools.
The American dream certainly isn't dead, people are just being told the wrong way to go about obtaining the American dream. I know a few people I went to college with that have advanced degrees and still live with their parents. They have knowledge but no work ethic and manual labor is somehow below them. I am grateful for hardworkers like you and your family.
Why stick build at all, just spray foam between the metal supports and then screw in 5/8 or 3/4 plywood to the inside of supports. You have great insulation and an interior wall you can attach things to, which also can be removed if you like.
Did you add anymore self tapping screws to the support beams. Just build my barn and having seconds thoughts about just two self tapping on each side to secure the square tubbing.
I purposely didn't attach the wood to the building. The buildings are designed to hold themselves up and have their own loads. If you want to attach the wood to the legs, I would get 2x4s, rip them down to 2 1/2 inches wide, and screw them into the inside of the legs with metal self tapping screws. You can then attach your framing to those boards. I still recommend stick framing so not to burden the building with extra weight.
No, you didn't. I did not attach the wood to the metal building as the metal building has its own rated loads and I didn't want to put any unnecessary stress on the building.
HI great vid.... I didn't see if you showed how to attach the stud walls to the metal walls....? If it was me I'd screw a nailer into the metal studs and use that to attach the wood walls to..
If 16in OC and half the width of the 1.5in stud, then your first mark should be at 15.25 and your second mark should be at 16.75. These markings will put your stud at 16in OC.
That's why when I was building houses we would pull 15 1/4, put a nail then go 16" to make sure everything lines up. i just recently had an incident where a jack leg carpenter did this and pulled his tape from both sides of the wall to do it, absolute mess.
I am sorry I have never built anything. my question is how did you secure the bottom plate to the cement and secure the wall to tie in with the metal building?;
I used Tapcons and Redhead anchors. You could use either one for securing walls inside like this structure or walls in a basement. If you were anchoring a shed or something that will stand alone, definitely use the Redhead anchors to anchor the wood the the cement. I used a combination of both because I had them. I purposely didn't attach the wood structure to the shed as I didn't want any stress on the metal building. The metal structure stands completely by itself inside the metal building.
@@brettleybuilt that answer begs the question, by not attaching the top of the walls to the building, How do you keep the walls from bowing out if you need to hang cabinets or shelving or something on them? I'm looking at doing something similar in my 30 x 50 metal shop but unsure about how to keep a 50' freestanding wall secure and not "wobbly" at the top.
. Why wall studs ❓🤔☹️ I'd think 24 in or even 48 inch 😀 wall stud ❗💪🏻 Especially if your using any type of spray foam.❓😃 Unless your building HOME inside there.
Sorry, that was the door to my mud room in the house. We were in a hurry and installed it without filming it. The door in my office is going to be just like this one.
@@brettleybuilt awesome, where I'm at in the southwest I found a guy to spray it for about half as much as traditional insulation. Just need to figure out how to frame in the ceiling the same way.
I attached the floor plate boards with tapcons and 1/2 inch Redhead anchors. Tapcons by themselves would have worked fine. All of the framing is independent of the metal building.
I am glad you brought that up. I didn't really think about it because the door is so cheap, but Amazon has some. I might consider upgrading the door with an opener with this new information.
@@brettleybuilt me and you both brother. I was taught to be a real man and swing a 28oz framing hammer and if you are roofing you use a 36oz hammer and you do every thing by hand because that's what a real man does. Now after the damage of a few deployments, military life and combat sports have caught up to me. I'm happy to use any power tool I can. Plus the wife gets mad when use them, I get the " you spent hundreds on of your dewalt tools and you aren't using them why buy them"
@@brettleybuilt 😆 🤣 hell yeah brother ( O.I.F and O.E.F among a few others)i know what you mean. keep putting out those videos. I'm using your build for my wife's Borndominium. Definitely subscribing and I'll hit you for some info. Have a good one and God bless you
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