Brit it’s been awhile, so pleased that you found the right guy. Sorry that things never worked out as intended, but hay least you look as if you are happy and having an adventure of a life time. 🙏❤️
Two suggestions : Put lipstick on the nut wher it touches your board. Saves a step of cutting off bolts . Cut on the backside of your board where you want it to bend with cuts going side to side. Start with a quarter inch depth and make several cuts. You might have to go as deep as a half inch . Make the cuts start a little before the bend about a inch before and continue about a inch after the end of the bend . Cuts will open up and bend will be easy .
Just wanted to put this here in case anyone else accidentally loosens a rivet and it spins in place. If you can fit a pair of pliers around the rivet (most of the ones I loosened were somewhat accessible), squeeze down on it and you can hold it in place while screwing the bolt into it. I've also fixed a few by reattaching the rivet tool and pressing em tight again.
I agree with your assessment of "vapor barriers". You can't keep water from condensing inside a van and the best strategy is to provide max ventilation for it to air out. The Dometic RTX 2000 should be key in keeping the humidity low.
Mike, if your recessing for the bolts with the 1/2 inch drill, do it with drill switched to reverse. Then it won’t grip the timber and pull through x lovely job you two xxx Roly in England
Lol I spun so many plus nuts during my time trying to build out. What I ended up doing was using super glue every time I installed one. That way later when I screwed into it it didn't end up spinning and requiring drilling out
Question for you. Did you consider not framing the cabinets and instead connecting the cabinet frame directly to the vehicle frame using the rivnuts to save weight and space?
Hey Mike, fantastic data for a newb like me and I do appreciate it. I was wanting to relocate the lights I removed from the front section of the cargo area to the rear beam an d noticed you have done that. Where is the little plug in 'socket' in the rear? I haven't torn anything apart, but it is not obvious to me at first glance. Again, thanks for taking the enormous amount of timer and effort to share your processes. So damn helpful!
For anyone else wondering, there are a couple sets of electrical connectors for the two LED lights if you do not have them in the rear and want to use the ones you likely removed from the front, so just use the connectors taped down to the harness running across the back. For me, black wire went closest to the screw.
Great video guys, so many good tips. i'm also in the same stage with my Van Build and this help me to make some adjustment to my design. Here goes my subscribe!
Great Videos!! Thank you so much for putting them here for our benefit! I know you made these quite awhile now, but do you recall how far down you adhered your 1x4s from the ceiling? Can I just allow enough room for the harness (per your video), or were you allowing room for anything else in future videos? Thank you mightily! 😊
Thank you, we're glad they're helpful! We would say it was about a half-inch to one inch from the ceiling. We only allowed enough room for the harness.
Great job. You love making your house on wheels!! I am curious, you spoke about a heating floor. Will it be electric with some kind of plastic film like "Quiet Warmth"? Can you share this with us? Thank you
Hi. I thought of buying the Quiet warmth but after seeing Tim and Katie video on RU-vid, they bought the same kind of heating film in Germany but 12v instead of 110v. It is called Mi-Heat. They have a 12v thermostat. It looks like it is working fine. They are happy with it. So I send Mi-Heat my needs , the same day I had my estimate including shipping, customs and taxes and currency. I paid. I should receive it in 50 days. Go take a look. You may be interested. Markus seems in charge of web orders and infos. He also commented Tim and Katie video. Have fun
Hi, I want a bed crosswise in the rear but I don't want to elevate it for the extra length. I,, want the framing 15" from the floor. Can you tell me what the measurement is between finished walls and the 15" platform in the rear. I'm guessing it's 63-64? Thanks! Enjoyed your video.
Thank you! Since we didn’t do spray foam (and would have needed to do wiring first in that case) we decided to do wiring after since we had seen others (I think FarOutRide) do it that way. It actually ended up being helpful because at one point we mixed up which wires went to what outlet for our kitchen, and we could trace the wire back through the wall to find where it came from and what we intended.
@@britandmike OK- I like your reasoning ... We are just finishing up with the insulation and framing so wiring next week... I hope! You know how van building goes!
The wiring harness in my 2015 Transit is completely wrapped in tape and appears to be much bulkier than yours. I dont see how there is room for it at the ceiling to wall angle. Did you unwrap yours to make it smaller? What did you do with the wiring harness in the rear of the van. I didnt see it in your videos. It is bulky too and I dont see how it would fit behind a wall or the ceiling. There is also a wiring harnness along the passenger side of the van that I dont see in your videos? Tell us what your magic trick was!!
Never mind. I saw answers to my questions in the beginning of the ceiling install video. Thanks again for al the great info. I marvel that Mike has had no previous woodworking/building experience. I have years of home ownership maintenance and remodeling experience, plus rehabbing to large sailboats. I find designing from scratch and building a van to be very challenging!! I don't know how you manage to do such a great job. Congratulations!
Could you have skipped this part if you used 8020 to frame your cabinets? My 2022 van will most likely arrive early June and I plan on using 8020 so I am interested in Ford transit conversions and 8020 construction.
I will be using 8020 also and will not be framing out the walls with wood. The 8020 will mount to the van with some heavy mass vinyl in between as a temperature break. We're building vans at a good pace with no parts shortages so far in 2022. Hope your van comes in early.
@@bobstransitvan3053 It would be nice to get it early though I am not holding my breath! I am seriously considering using a Husky tool chest 61 long X 23 deep 19 Gage steel as one side cabinet and mounting the refrigerator on it. I would run 8020 cabinets above to save weight since the husky weighs 400Lbs. I saw this in another van and it was working out great for him! I would get a white chest for a brighter look and it is totally lockable. The guy said the chest did not rattle and taking the casters off and adding a toe kick worked out great. Van lifer's are known to think outside the box. I made a great living solving peoples problems and plan on getting creative on this build! Where are you building these vans Bob?
I disagree with your ideology that if moisture goes in your walls, it won't dry. First off, havelock wool or another similar insulation is antimicrobial and will dry just fine. Putting cork over it solves the problems you think you'd have. Idk why everybody thinks wood walls are necessary.
