Hey guys. I recently purchased this guitar in the video, the exact one. I didnt know about this video beforehand. Do you think I should be worried about this guitar, having the truss rod turned so fast like that? As well as the action being raised under tension? Im kinda freaking out now..
I'm not an expert but first, I'd say the fast truss rod turning is just for the video, it's a (relatively) short video and I think it's just to make it clear which is the movement to adjust the truss rod. As for the action being raised under tension, I'm not sure, I think it stress out the bridge components and bolts more than needed but taking in mind that this is a new bridge without any previous wear I think it can't hurt the guitar (so I woudln't freak out about your new guitar) but I'd still do it without tension to put less stress when changing the action.
The three arms thing: use a cappo on the lowest fret and a finger on the highest then you have a hand free to check the height at the 9th if you are unsure.
looked at 3 videos and this one was the best, most detailed, clearly spoken, and straight to the point, i now have my guitar properly set up, thank you so much for the great tutorial!
I was struggling with my first Floyd setup for hours and this is by far the most helpful video I found. Straightforward, to the point, no bullshit, and gave me everything I needed to know in the order I needed to know it. Thanks so much!
Thanks very much for the video, I have had my ESP with a Floyd Rose since I was 19, I'm 31 now. Young nieve me couldnt be bothered to do it myself as I was worried about severely screwing up the guitar so I always got someone else to do it and even contemplated fixing the bridge. Now I'm older and willing to learn this video helped a lot. A lot of other videos out there make it seem very complicated. Thanks again!
I set mine up on my own for the first time just last week (used to bring it to a shop, which turns out was a bad idea since I found some problems). Well, it went perfectly well, oddly enough. Wasn’t hard at all if you do your research, and if you understand how the Floyd works mechanically speaking (see “research”). It was actually kind of fun, since I like doing things like this and learning new things. I changed my gauge and tuning, so I had to remove my third spring. I had to retune two times I believe, due to stretching but it wasn’t an issue. I literally just used some folded paper to block the bridge, basically finding a size that worked well enough. If you keep the bridge relatively steady, you’ll be fine when you lock it down (you finish with fine tuners). I also adjusted my neck, but didn’t have to adjust intonation or action. My biggest mistake was not crowning my frets and cleaning up the fretboard while the strings were off. The bridge has very very slightly dropped into the body from a level position, but still less so than when the shop did my guitar. Just go do it, you won’t regret learning it.
This video was great. It's funny, I've been doing that hex key trick for the action for a while now. I never had a set of feeler gauges so I improvised with the tools I had and it did the trick, been doing it ever since. Pretty cool to see that as an actual tip!
the guy kinda talks funny "stringk, tuningk, etc.." but this video just taught me how to set up my guitar and saved me $60 + 5 weeks of waiting for the local shop to get to it... thank you!!! guitar sounds great now and I know what I'm doing
Thank you for this video! It gave me the courage to fix things myself, after 12 years of owing a Floyd rose. Kudos guys :) my guitar sounds just like it used to from the shop!
I followed the steps in this video and my guitars Floyd Rose is setup! You must go step by step. To adjust the string height lower the bridge slowly until you can bend a full step up on the high E string 15th fret with little to no tension.
Good basic floyd rose set up video. There are some tips not in the video, that are in comments. But you get dialed in close. Thank you Framus and Warwick.
Yep...that's pretty much how we do it with the addition these days of the popular D-tuna, in which case tuning the last string to D and making sure the D-tuna when pushed in hits the E within a point or two, if not, we hit the fine tuning screw supplied on the D-tuna itself. Just a note: We tend to change strings more often on guitars using the Floyd sort of because of the nature of the beast, so always make sure you stretch your strings out good before going down this road, because it'll drive you crazy if you forget.
This... This vid is it. It shows me everything I need to know in one vid with working examples. Wait did it take so long for me to find this? Now that I know how to do the intonation... Welp, another hour fiddling with the guitar.
+roger weafer I've just watched a video before showing the damage you can do to the Blade part of the bridge which pivots against the pivot point screw, if you don't loosen the strings you will damage this blade shape and ruin the point of the pivot to a flat surface (which you can't pivot on)
This may be true for cheaper studs, licensed Floyd’s etc., if the studs and knife edge are hardened steel, you will be fine. If not sure, it doesn’t hurt to remove tension first, your choice.
I second this its a bad idea to adjust the bridge posts with full string tension on them i even take the springs in the cavity out before doing it because i gouged the shit out of a bridge post on a cheap Ibanez doing that with both string and spring tension on the bridge posts its not a myth lol
In 2013, I got my first and only floating bridge to date. A "Floyd Rose Special" on a "Jackson Warrior WRXMG". I tried setting it up, but, things went rough because i was worried about those knife edges. In the end, I ended up dropping it off to get worked on. but, I'm 100% sure those guys didn't bother de-tuning my guitar before adjusting height. I also hear the older stainless steel models hold up better than the Aluminum ones, like my "Floyd Rose Special." These days I work on it myself, but, have only had to adjust the height one other time, when I changed the strings from 9's to 10's. I also can't help but notice, when you pivot the floating bridge, it rides along the knife edge anyway I imagine it would be OK to do a handful of minor adjustments within its lifetime without de-tuning, no?
This is so much extra work for so little difference. Still gotta tune it on the other end. I get that it keeps tune when floating and using whammy but if you are just playing a guitar regularly I am not convinced this is ideal. I have blocked and disabled my ibanez guitars with FR over the years since I really got bored//tired of setuping up the floyds.
Great concise video with good production values. If I want to see how to wind a string around the head stock correctly I can go elsewhere. This is like 5 videos in less than 8 minutes! But seriously, to the right, to the left? How about clockwise and counterclockwise? I would have no idea without watching which way he was turning the tool. I just realized one of my pick-up screws is stripped - the one that's too low. Might be able to move it. Open box saved me a lot of dough, though.
No No around 5:50 or something, you don't adjust the string height like that. you have to take the strings and springs off. if you do it like that it fucks up the knife edges which leads to tuning instability. sure it's a pain in the ass to go through with all of that but it insures that the Floyd Rose is safe and operating properly. And if you do it this way you will not have to go and buy another Floyd or extra parts. and making sure the new one is operating properly is just a pain all on its own... you have to intonate it, float it properly, and disassemble and reassemble if you choose to just replace the knife edges.
I've heard this method mentioned several times but how do you know how much you have adjusted the height by if you have to take the strings off? because surely if you've over or under adjusted it too much you then have to take the strings off again, buy a new set and then retry?
@@seanellis6902 This isn't question on getting the best wiev to set the string height. This is a necessity for not scaring/ruining the posts -as well as the edges on the baseplate. Turning the posts with; -string, -spring -or blocked off -tension; will cause damage to the post and edges. The way shown in the clip is sure more convinient and easy. However it's simply not worth the risk of damageing the trem unit.
@@MrJonken70 I've read that this is only a concern with less expensive locking terms, not quality ones made out of hard metal. As I understand it, an Original Floyd Rose for instance is perfectly fine to adjust at full tension, and was designed to be adjusted in this way. Asian floating trems made out of cheaper metal, not so much.
Very nice video! Just one comment. I think it would make more sense to adjust the set up order as follows: (1) Change strings, (2) Truss rod, (3) Bridge angle, (4) String action, (5) Intonation, (6) Pickup height. Truss rod is essential one, as it changes all the rest.
I wish I had known all of this back in high school! Had a Jackson RR1, #707, and the Floyd Rose was a pain in the ass to deal with, so I gave up. In hindsight, which is clear as crystal now, it seems as though choosing to sell that guitar was a poor decision. Decisions, decisions...
Nearly perfect, I'd put string tuning instructions in there like what's on the Floyd Rose site. Thanks!!! I'd never tuned intonation, my guitar's intonation was off pretty bad.
As someone with knowledge of Floyds and high quality guitars I am baffled as to why that guitar has no string tree. When the locking nut was loosed the strings rose quite a bit. When they are tightened the guitar will go sharp. A Floyd will usually go sharp, but now it goes sharp considerably more. Strings trees are inexpensive and I know these guitars are not entry level pricewise. Get a string tree on that thing.
aldersmoke1 you should have red his numerous comments before to this video. it is the way he lifts hiself above others. but i really don't care what you've red and what not
My knowledge of locking tremelos goes back to when they first arrived on the scene. No arrogance needed, when I see a flaw and point it out. SJW alert, afraid of knowledge is this one.
Am I wrong in saying; you should never ever adjust the string height screws at the bridge with tension on the strings, because it damages the knife edges of the floyd. Or can I ignore that and save alot of time when adjusting my string height?
Wow! They recommend changing strings once or twice a month?! I play daily almost and I change them once every 4 months. I do buy expensive strings but dang.
You have the truss rod adjustments the wrong way round guys, I came close to fucking my guitar up because of this misinformation - you also talk about making the adjustments left/right without giving a reference point, which makes this information both incorrect in its intended context, and ambiguous to an uninformed reader (i.e. the type of people likely to watch this video).
IMPORTANT NOTE: at 5:36 they forgot to mention to remove the back springs as the friction between the knife edge and the pivot bolts being turned under all that tension wear on the knife edge. apparently this causes the tremolo to not come back to pitch when used.
At 1:48 the video says use a 2.5mm to loosen the locking nut screws. Every FR & licensed FR I've seen uses 3mm wrenches on the locking nut screws. Ditto for at 2:17 where he says use a 2.5mm wrench for the string lock; it should be a 3mm wrench. I currently have 32 guitars with Floyd Rose bridges so I have changed strings on one quite a few times.
On a non-branded Floyd Rose, sure. But a legitimate Floyd Rose will not have that problem unless you're purposely trying to do it by over adjusting it when not needed. The bridge height is one of those things that you set once and then you're good unless tiny tweaks need to be made down the line. Most setups it won't be touched after you get it dialed in and continue to use the same gauge strings.
You shouldn't turn the posts with string tension on. This will scar -and ruin the posts as well as the edges on the base plate. Adjusting the string action should NOT be done like shown here. The correct and safe way without ruining the trem; is to release string tension by removing the springs on the back before turning the posts. Simply just: -Set baseplate level/tune up the guitar. -Measure action. ( -Turn the trem bar backwards (pointing towards the rear strap button). -Flip the guitar around on work bench -or knee. (PU's pointing down). -Use the bar to counter weight as You pull the springs under tension. (spring puller tool is good for this.) -Slowly release the stringtension fully loosening tension on the back and down wards pointed trem bar. In some cases; high strings may still have tension -even when the trem is fully dived. If so: This tension is not much at all. It's easy to push/move the trem way from the post with the other hand -as you adjust/turn with the other hand. -Make adjustment on post -or posts. -Flip the guitar again. -Use the back pointed bar again to counterweight -as You re install the springs. Check it. Not OK? = Repeat the process until OK. Real Pros do this most times without even unlocking the nut. Everytime You put the spring back on and check: The guitar is basicly pretty much in tune. The rule is: If You aren't able to push/clear the trem from the post to adjust: You will need to detune a little before doing so. This way Your posts -as well as Your baseplate will stay in the same condition as they was before You string action adjustment. (No scars on posts -nor no duller baseplate edges.) To turn/adjust tremposts with stringtension on ANY pivot trem guitar; is the by far most common reason for ruining Your trem. THIS is a FACT! I'm a luthiere/tech. And it really hurts my soul; to see manufacturors of Floyded instruments instructing their customers to ruin their trems this way. Take my word on this: REGARDLESS of the quality of steel in Your trem unit: There isn't one made yet; that is resistant -and can handle this kind of strain. And before You start calling me names: Can You honestly say that adjusting the posts on Your guitar -didn't leave a scar on Your post? As as said before: There ain't a trem on the market; that can handle the strain.
Wait when you were adjusting the truss rod cover you said left when you were turning right and vise versa. Are you looking down the neck from the headstock when you say left/right? Cause he said it backwards.
Maybe a silly Q, but, I want to lower my string action... people mention to detune/reduce tension of the strings... my FR is floating, so can I just lift the end of the FR up so all tension is off the strings when I adjust either of the two bridge screws when adjusting height? Many thanks
When the nut is locked, it isn't holding the strings completely on its own. That's what the locking tuners are there for. So that the strings do not slip out of tune at all, and that there is no chance of it happening.
Cai Durkan The whole point of a locking nut is so that the strings don't slip at all at that location on the guitar. Still don't see the need for locking tuners if you have a locking nut!
I'm about to Jimi Hendrix my guitar -. - that's one thing that is for sur if I knew Floyd rose's needed this much care I would of just adopted a child and taught it to sing.
+Travis Kitkowski (Travkit) One good thing about a Floyd rose once its set right, you will forever be in a love hate relationship with I. It will stay in tune better and give you the whammy option. Down part is changing strings and you'll see a small difference if u change string guage.
Wrong way to set the height of the strings To avoid damage to the studs and knives just remove the bridge guys! Don't need to remove the strings. Just pull up the bridge ( against the body.) Pull out the springs underneath. Set the action on the studs. Reset the springs and tune
