I just turned my gear around. It works wonderful. My wife has not had all wheel drive for about 3 years. Was told by bmw a minimum of 2-3 thousand dollars. Thank you so much for the tip.
well hopefully it will continue to work well for you. However, if gives any more problems get new gear and replace the oil with the proper oil for the transfer case and the rear end
I opened the actuator about two years ago and put in a ten dollar gear, and then I realised that it wasn't needed, because the opposite 180 degrees aren't wearn at all. In fact it was a little bit tricky to remove the plate. It's absolutely a perfect idea to turn the gear "180 degree". But you have to consider, you first draw out the "screw" then the gear turn a number of degrees then you turn the gear, and when you put the screw back the gear turn "some more" degrees. So I'm not quite sure if the right thing is to turn the gear exactly 180 degrees. On the other hand I think that the wear is less than 180 degree. If the teeth of the gear are totally worn out, then it's easy to figure out how to solve the problem. A very good video! If you combine this with other videos, you can learn how it looks like underneath the blank plate! If you remove the plate you can then easily remove the debris from the worn gear! Not to forget.
GyroGerald, you are awesome! I just did this moments ago. It took me a while to get to all 4 bolts. I eventually bying a nuckle adapter. I used a 5/16 regular socket to get to the 4 bolts. Got it on my bench and rotedted 180'. I didn't want to pay the close to 3k my dealer was asking for. It took me less than a morning. About 3 hours I'd say. That includes having to go get the nuckle at the local auto parts store. It's still shifting a bit rough but she has 180K miles. Just scanned for codes. Clean bill of health. Thanks again! 😀 I used a jack for the cross member too 😏
Well if it gives you anymore problems then replace the gear. It will be easy now to do because you already did it once 😄. Also consider replacing the oil in the transfer case and the rear end of the car and the transmission. But you must use the expensive oil from BMW to do the job. Have a nice day
Sir I must salute you! I did this to my wife’s car & it works perfectly. Amazing results. Great video, good explanation. Very happy you shared. Thanks again, all the best. Leo
Also if have more problems with your BMW change oil in transfer case, and rear end, with proper expensive oil and make sure all tires are same pressure
Doing it today after doing an oil leak riggt behind the oil pan housing seems like I can't find the leak but there's always oil riggt back there.and my cars making a noise like I gotta bleed it or it's losing to much oil
Great help thank you. Also I was looking for a few comments on how strong a select few people are to lift that transfer case. 😅 Thank you again. This was awesome.
I don’t know if you read any of your comments, or where you’re located? I am a female who has owned a BMW 2008 x3 for 2 1/2 years……It is perfect cosmetically…flawless white paint and beige leather interior..gorgeous to look at…like new quality all weather tires,……..I have replaced the water pump, actuator, alternator, battery, and the starter..I run quality synthetic oil, the transmission is newly flushed this week….i was told the differential could be problematic but not terrible as of yet…( I live in Mt.)… The easier issues are I could require brake pads at some point this year, so I was told…..I have put a lot of money into this machine and yet ……it is now making very weird subtle noise such as subtle grinding and not shifting well between 1 and 3rd gears……this is something new and rather frightening when I’m at a stop, as it starts jerking and not properly accelerating….( I would compare this to the feeling you get if you accidentally left your emergency brake on) …once on the open road traveling between 55-70 it moves along like a new car……The mechanic who has currently worked on it, who is not a BMW expert says the engine itself is in great shape… I guess I am seeking some wise counsel, as Beemer aficionados are limited here in Mt…..I am open to selling this vehicle as well….. It’s a beautiful little car with 34000 miles 2008……. I would appreciate advice,,.thanks.
Hi there. I’ve got a hard shift 1st, mostly 2nd and little 3rd. No 4x4 light. Changed the gearbox oil and it’s way better, though it is still something, kinda mechanical when pushing into 2nd ( mostly) when cold especially. Clutch is all the way to the floor of course. Some say I have to change clutch ( makes sense in a way, slave cylinder or hydraulic pump, but the discs feels ok) , or transmission issue (makes sense) , but none sure. Cannot just change clutch and transmission, and at the end to be something simpler (like in your video). Advise please
I'm wondering if this is my problem with my 2005 it. Sometimes when I come to a stop my transmission sort of bumps/jumps forward sort of thing. I have no lights lit up.on the dash thought 👍👍👍
My transmission (or transfer) feels sluggish. Specially when accelerating from 0. Sometimes it doesnt engage 1st, and it seems to be getting worse. The delay for gear engagement is getting worse and seems to only happen in 1st, and worse when cold. Will this servo motor fix improve something? Chaing the Transfer fluid?
i have a 2007 bmw x3 with 160 miles, my father and i have done transfer case fluid change and transmission fluid change and I still notice that the car shifts harder than my mothers e46 with 250,000. will this repair help?
Great video brother. I have a 2002 BMW X5 3.0 motor. From park to drive it feels like the parking brake is active and the truck doesn't want to move fast. Should I just replace that actuator and replace the oil?
Good post. I am having similar issues on my 2004 x3 E83 3.0 (hard shifting, jerking bucking). I do not yet have any dash lights coming on so this may not be my issue. My indie bimmer mechanic is trying to tell me its the entire transfer case but I want to inspect that actuator assembly first.
Get the right oil for the transfer case and rear differential from Amazon or BMW. It made a difference on mine. Also go ahead and replace the gear just to eliminate any problems. But transfer case oil made a big difference with how it acts
Just got around to changing the transfer case fluid with DTF-1 purchased from the dealer. My old fluid had tiny glitter like metal shavings but this could be normal wear after 140k. I will move on to remove and inspect the actuator assembly next. With those connectors detached I think the car is running 2wd which is another good way to pinpoint any transfer case issues lurking. After the T case fluid change I have a slight improvement to shudder, but still detected. I plan on also inspecting rear flex disc, center support and u joint. A lot of guys are replacing the transfer case chain but hoping not to have to do that. Rewatching your vid because my actuator platic clip is frozen probably from keeping the car outside so trying not to break that clip. Thx again!.
I was told possible rear differential was causing the rear clunking noises. How could I determine if it's the transfer case servo motor gear or the rear differential. I don't want to replace the rear diff if I don't need to and they're not sure!
Did your shudder between or around low gears during acceleration? My 08 x3 shudders during slow acceleration and drive very smoothly under cruising/highway speeds. I do have some of the clunking in the back when parking or driving in a parking lot. My transfer case is new rebuild the vehicle has 94,000 miles. Thanks for any help.
Wow I have 190,000 on mine and it is now clunking again, I had vibration and rear cv joint going bad and replaced drive shaft assembly and vibration stopped but if one of my Tires are low it clunks on acceleration. Or if I accelerate hard it clunks. But does not clunk when I slow down and stop like it used To. I think I have an issue with Transfer case again but I checked gear and it is ok. So I feel like something is not making Transfer case go into gear quick enough when I accelerate. Because if I accelerate easy I don’t seem To have clunks. BMW is way over engendered but I had water pump go out on it a month ago and it was The easiest water pump I have ever replaced.
what do you mean binding. Are you having a bump in the rear end when you take off? or when you slow down? or a clunking sound? if so then this might be the problem. Turns should not show this problem really. Are you mainly hearing a sound in real tight turns but not going straight?
@@GyroGerald when I turn at lower speeds like lock to lock the rear makes a bad thumping noise. Exactly the noise you hear if u were to turn a 4X4 truck in a dry parking lot. Not squeezing but u can feel it thumping and it holds the car back. Like there’s tension somewhere like the gears are bad in the transfer case / diff area
@@GyroGerald for example with the tension situation. If I’m lock to lock or turning more then 3/4th of a turn the car won’t roll forward by itself & when I let the clutch out it feels like something’s stuck w the AWD system. So I thought to unplug the transfer case fuse #40 and all my issues went away but the car is now in full RWD * witch is fine but I’d like to have the option for my awd to be working * I am also stage 2 + with the The N51 SULEV
@@wolffemergencyresponsellc.3152 Did you ever figure out the issue? I have a BMW X3 with a similar problem. It feels like the car is fighting itself during tight turns in a car park. My 4x4 light is also on, I'm just about to replace the actuator. The car is smooth as silk on the highway, the issue only presents itself at slow speeds in a car park, or whilst turning onto the motorway.
Hi brothers, I have a BMW x3 3.0i as I was driving my transmission malfunction light came on and gear positions on my cluster disappeared and my car went into limp mode I tried to reset my transmission but no luck and I checked my range switch and looks fine what might be my problem... Please help
Well then need to replace the fluid in the Transfer case and the rear end. Then check the universal joint on the drive shaft probably the one closest to the rear end. Oh and use the expensive oil in the Transfer case etc
@@GyroGerald YIKES! I’ll have to look up how to that too! Truck (e53) is riding “okay” - gonna replace wheel sensors, but I have the Trifecta of “slabs, brake, and triangle circle” so I decided to try this first
