@desertrat810 That's true, but it will be quite entertaining to see a video by electroboom explaining what is happening in Kreosan's video. And when did something being unsafe or illegal, ever stop Electroboom? ;)
I just wired a new off-grid home for someone including solar. There were two ground stakes about 60' apart and I already knew about this effect described in the video. I explained to the customer all about the binding screw in the electrical panel and why it's used to negate this "free energy" from the Earth. But I also told him that we could instead hookup a transformer and take that power as well.
Am I stupid to think the grounding rods (grounding stakes 60’ apart) are incase of an over-surge of power happens and to prevent arcing/fires??? Isn’t that small amount of lost power happening because you need a current open incase you need to dissipate a large amount of energy, and if you put a transformer in there first wouldn’t you need a large enough transformer to handle the entire electrical load of the house/ lightning strike to prevent overload/fires?? Second wouldn’t the transformer do nothing as you still have the same power output? Like for example if you are planning to hook your idea up to say the solar system’s battery even with the transformer an over surge of power would fry the whole thing (and aren’t those ground stakes what are supposed to prevent that exact thing?)??
Update, researched it, um you should be fired.. because for anyone else curious, the answer is yes the grounding rods are there to prevent fires… Also what wattage are you thinking you’re going to pull?? (I’ll tell the rest of you know it’s probably no more than .02 Watts, 2 watts seems astronomical compared to my calculations but found a few who claim such high numbers (this being from ground batteries, ground batteries being the only source of energy that you aren’t yourself adding to the system))
Over 45 years ago my physics teacher said it was possible to obtain unmetered electricity from between neutral and ground. Due to the small voltage we thought it would not be of any use but I guess it was this he was talking about.
Also notice how no advancements in technology to make this better has been made. On purpose Of course and now they're going to use the ignorance of the population to control them.
That's just inducted power between the bonded conductor and system ground. It still happens on the consumer end of the meter and you are still billed for it.
@Bot Fap, a good attempt by the russian occupier on Russia. And remind me who paid Ukraine for the stolen gas before concluding a new contract for the supply of natural gas from Russia to Europe.
No, the voltage of 2.3volts AC is the potential difference between the two earth's points. There is no meter to measure current between the two earth points, only active to earth is metered current.
No, the voltage of 2.3volts AC is the potential difference between the two earth's points. There is no meter to measure current between the two earth points, only active to earth is metered current.
No, the voltage of 2.3volts AC is the potential difference between the two earth points. There is no meter to measure current between the two earth points, only active to earth is metered current.
There is always induction going on in walls, paint, pipes. To test this you need to either turn all breakes off or better go outside into woods and test the grounding theory. Leds are sensitive to smallest inductions in wires/walls, at home I have led bulbs on wall in corridor and they give glow durring night even through all lamp switches are off, but the moment I turn off all power breakers in home it goes dark. If you live in apartment building the induction might come to you from neighbours via pipes.
At least you understand there is something fishy going on here. The two wire set up has one hot and the other ground. The other appliances in the house are using the ground so there will be some voltage there as it works it's way to the ground rod. All this guy is doing is giving that residue voltage an easier path to ground. Like zibi said. Cut the power to the house and his little light will go out.
If you used a voltage regulator and a charging circuit to a battery you could have enough storage to collect the variable source and regulate it to then use in a controlled manner... Would be cool to see you expand on this setup.
Try making a series of earth battery outside the home with the series of battery in a straight line pointing North to south or south to north depending on where you live. Carbon and magnesium rods connected together with say some wood paneling in between as an insulator so they don't make contact to each other and corrosion will stop.
@@FRESNEL_COOKING_SOLAR_OVENS24 yeah… do the calculations, our earth’s diameter & minimum rod length to be effective… you will know it’s impossible & we need huge industrial hammer to drive those rods(it’s in kilometres)… good luck…
The neutral wire is carrying the load current back to the power source which is grounded to earth and the cold water pipe. This current causes a small voltage drop across the neutral wire at the load and ground at the source. You are connecting an additional load cross that small voltage drop yielding a few watts of power which you are being billed for. Also a shock hazard and violating purpose of the ground wire. It’s only to carry current during a fault to protect from shock if the hot wire leaks current to a metal enclosure and you touch it and ground.
It’s not a ground wire it’s a neutral wire. If you are getting electricity from an actual ground wire then you have a serious wiring problem in your house.
They're getting the high potential between the water pipe and house neutral, in other words there's a fault somewhere allowing this to happen more so if they can draw several watts from it. I've got a few volts max between neutral and earth at the wall outlet, if I allow them to touch the RCD trips. I love having safe electrical distribution here and every piece of piping has a low impedance path back to the earth-neutral bonding point where the power enters the house.
This is probably not in the US, and using a TN-C classification/configuration with a combined neutral ground.. in the US the “free power” equivalent would be the residual power being produced/expelled from devices connected to a system being sent back to the bonded neutral and ground at the first point of disconnect. Possible to use it yea.. is it viable? Maybe in some off grid setups that aren’t regulated by NEC and local/state codes. Is it stable? Definitely not, the fluctuations will be based on your current overall draw on the system and will be majorly variable and unsafe under most circumstances. I could see such a thing being used in conjunction with a charge controller to store residual ac into dc batteries. Such as regenerative alternators on an electric car, same concept?
This may work in the Ukraine because the meter measures power through the phase wire only and no RCD. In UK for example if you do that the RCD will trip. And in any case a modern meter measures consumption through both phase and neutral, so you would still be charged for that, no free power :)
Here in Bulgaria, this worked up to the end of the 90s. But with the new millenium came new power meters :D However even back it then it was not used at all, as there were ways to actually cheat the power meter, and get as much power as you wanted and not paying for it :D
@@nenadlacmanovic3046 That was one way... The other way was the so called "bridge of friendship" where with a certain wiring setup you could rewind the powe meter.
My conclusion here is the ground wire that you took from the wall outlet has this 2.6 volts due to induction between phase and ground wire because of the load that you have at home.. try to turn off your main braker see if you still have this 2.6 volts. The thing is if you are using digital electric meter you are still paying this 2.6 volts..😪
Nothing to do with induction and everything to do with resistance. Specifically the resistance between the actual ground and the return path of the neutral wire or an alternative ground.
I’ve been reading on Nicola tesla and according to him there is approximately 1volt of electricity per square foot on the earth. So in theory a 10 foot copper antenna could produce 10 volts of electricity.
0m3n “Free energy” is a myth. Energy has to be pulled for it to be pushed. Most “free energy” ideas use magnets to pull, but air and other forms of resistance absorbs the energy as heat and slows it down until it meets and equal librium.
Michael Frith How does high and low pressure create energy and what’s the median to deliver the energy? “Free energy” usually refers to solid-state or constant moving devices that provide unlimited electricity with no resistance which is bullshit as resistance is all around us. Resistance is futile!
Yeah! Thanks I remember Nicola Tesla was saying we can get free energy. But I think it was not this way but rather somehow capturing the radio waves or energy waves out of mid-air..
Tesla was talking about the gains obtained by transmitting scalar energy. It travels at 1.5 times the speed of light. Because of this the output increases by 1.5 at the receiver. Multiple receivers can be set up and hooked together for an additive effect.
@Ancient Link it happens on all "proper wiring" due to the inductance picked up on the neutral wire. The neutral wire is tied to ground and is at ground potential at that point, down the line inductance creates some potential on the neutral wire with respect to ground.
@@jusbenaattori Oh yeah, that is true. So presumably where Kerosan lives, if he were to mount a RCD, it would instantly trip even if his in house wiring is flawless? What type of fault is this, is the neutral line not fat enough to handle the return current in the neighbourhood, or is it a phase load mismatch in the area?
@@Tore_Lund It would trip if the neutral and ground are shorted after the RCD, but that should not happen, so the RCD should function normally. I don't know why there is a potential between ground and neutral, it could be a number of reasons, for example just induction from the house wiring. EDIT: Thought more of it, the induction should affect the neutral and ground about the same so that would not make such a big potential difference.
@@voltariantechnologyinc.8594 they dont "let" it leak, they can't stop it from leaking. The point though is to reclaim the leaking/lost electricity ...
@@stewartcaldwell5299 the person is saying they would like to see a method of collecting the ambient electromagnetic emanations from the powerlines and putting them to practical use.
All the electrical energy going from neutral to ground is still coming from your line through your connected devices. You will still pay for that so this is not free energy. Just a result of the voltage drop on your electrical installation 😂
Good boy,I had faith in you just by dress code and the way you presented.You were well prepared and you didn't waste my time by showing us the components for 5 minutes before starting the project,thank you. Be good
With some extra capacitors and resistors, you can make this a little more stable. I wonder if this could be enough to charge an emergency power battery over a while? It would be some trickles of power but hey.... after a while you would still get some power into it for later use.
The stability of this source will depend on the stability of all the loads in your house or apartment. If you turned all the loads in your house off there wouldn't be any "free" energy anymore since you are taping a voltage drop over the resistance of the wiring in your house. The higher the load the more voltage drop is generated.
My wife is from Ukraine, typical of wiring in older buildings. We had laptops going at a hotel (very nice hotel btw), but no grounded outlets. We would get shocked if we touched both laptops. Wiring is 240 vac on top of that. Why no structural fires on the hour, every hour is beyond me.
That wiring in you're Country is very Skittish,!!! I have two friends who are Brother's... They told me all about the Power There. It's ALL 220 VOLTS.... When they first started sending stuff bome, to indea" everthing would burn-up Soon as there family would 🔌 plug it in & turned it on. MOSTLY VCR's sent home by them to different family members. Until one day they talked to me, about it & I realized what they had Ben doing.lol I saw that they were sending 120volt stuff from HERE to THERE.... I explained what was happening & helped them Find a (step down" Tranformer).. & explaned what was causing the problem. But this is CRAZY! 😲 the ground wire, Haveing enough, to power a step - up Transformer that it could do real work. I MEAN most of the time, when doing something like this, it won't power any kinda load, ( soon as anything is connected to the wire), it dropps the voltage like a ROCK FROM THE SKY. ANYWAY" This is GREAT,!!! KEEP WOKING ON IT, AND MAYBE" SOON! You will be able to CHARGE a bank- of Batteries, that is powering a big ol' inverter that can Run you're WHOLE House.
It's really not free energy . Did you see the plug that was across to the other side so what he did was was plugged the the cord into that so you have two wires one has 240 v and the other is ground wire . The hot wire on to the transformer and then he grounded the transformer on to the pipe . He showed us the pipe but didn't show us the other wire going to the other hot . It's all about deception .
@@MyIronman8 Its not, but its not free either. There is allways a small voltage between the neutral wire and ground when you have consumers draw current. It is because of the neutral wires own resistance. Tapping into it creates a parallel line back to the transformer.
@@QueueTeePies capacitors will be needed yes. You can also increase efficiency by using an insulated wire and applying graphite spikes to the end in the air I think. A friend said you can use a UV light on activated carbon to make nano tubes which night be effective at pulling ions from the air
Not really safe what you are doing.... The voltage between neutral and earth can fluctuate a lot and not really stable. It's basically based on the wire resistance in the TN-S network.... (I'm guessing this is what you have)
👌That's true, I did try out the experiment and it works as shown. With much voltage fluctuations though. I have a 12-0-12 step down tx that I used to step up if that makes sense, well as used in the video and the max voltage I recorded during the experiment was around 70v. Tried an led lamp and it lit not bright though with huge fluctuations. Employing a full wave rectifier with a capacitor across the zero and tap earth and using a boost converter to output around 24v steady voltage, can that voltage be used like a solar charger?
@@dangerouskoin4874 Use it to trickle charge an Anker, Jackery etc. I've just got into stuff like this, not much room to get good solar (in winter I might only get 1-2 hours of direct sun where I can fit a panel), thinking of small home-made wind turbines. I've seen some houses that back onto decently deep little "storm drains" that seem to flow constantly with water from somewhere. Imagine setting up a kilowatt water wheel, you'd be laughing. Especially with a low-power heat pump meant for a camper, totally free heating and cooling (in one room, anyway)
Most power companies do the same thing with the power in your home, the send it back to the plant where they reuse it and sell it back to you or someone else...
You could use Thevenin's theorem in order to calculate maximum power you can harness. First you measure the no load voltage (electromotive force) (Vnl) between neutral and ground. Next, you short circuit neutral and ground and measure the current (Isc). Now you know that the internal impedance of your source is Vnl/Isc. It is known that maximum power is transmitted to a load when the load impedance equals internal impedance of the source. If for example Vnl=2,5V, and Isc=2,5A, internal impedance (Zi)=1 ohm. If you hook up 1 ohm of load, the total circuit impedance is 2 ohm. The current which starts to flow is 1,25 A, so the apparent power across load is 1,25^2*1=1,56 VA. I wonder how much current starts flowing when you short circuit ground and neutral.
@@En_theo Yes it is. But when you ground something at two different places you are creating an alternative path for current to flow. Thats an earth loop. I dont know what level of knowledge you might posses, but in LV distribution neutral is connected to the soil around the substation. It is done in order to stabilize the voltages of live conductors to earth. If you have an ungrounded grid and a thundercloud approaches, then you would get a lot of static electricity on your powerlines and it would make what is called an arcing ground fault, basically a short circuit that starts and stops hundreds of times in a second and then destroys all insulation if not properly handeled. When you ground a circuit you eliminate static eletricity, but in case a live conductor touches the ground a current starts to flow. Soil is semi conductive, so around the place of fault there are step voltages, and so a live wire lying on wet soil can kill you eventhough you arr no where close to the metal. Now neutral wire is at ground potential only at the substation. If load is assymetric, or there is third harmonic, then there is current in the neutral. Wire is made of copper and when there is current running in the wire there must be voltage across the wire. It is called. "galvanic" induction. So when you connect neutral wire to the ground wire,and ground wire is just a wire that connects to you local soil around your house, then a current starts flowing because your soil and substation soil are connected with, well, soil. So normal path for a electron is transformer->phase wire->load-neutral wire->transformer, but if you connect neutral to earthe, the the path becomes: transformer->phase wire->load->neutral wire->ground wire-local soil-substation soil->transformer. It's is a very difficult subject, i hope ive explained a bit.
@@TinG-hz7fm I understood most of it (I guess). But then; since the neutral is connected to a substation, are we sure that somehow that current won't be accounted in our bills ? What happens if we connect several points in the ground ? Shall I get more power ?
It is not that free when the source of that electricity has already passed through your meter. The neutral conductor is providing an electrical path back to the power company. Believe it or not the power company's generator is already connected to ground. They are in essence pumping the electricity from the ground and returning it to the ground (50/60Hz). It is a closed loop. All you are doing is returning it to the ground at a different location (your house) by creating a ground fault path when connecting it to a pipe that is buried in the earth.
One of my ideas is a ball bearing motor with a oversized flywheel for pulsed dc to keep the bearings cool. Then have two faraway homopolar generators coupled to the ball bearing motor. Have large capacitor banks it can draw from so it can build up the DC pulse. Good luck
Having power there means your system is not grounded properly. What you are seeing is voltage being induced onto the ground wire because it is close to the phase wire. Trust me, use it regularly and it will show up on your electric meter.
There is no such thing as free DC and AC electricity. Electricity is a form of energy, and energy cannot be created or destroyed, it can only be converted from one form to another. 🙂
Between the ground and the neutral there is a small voltage created by the loads of the neighboring houses .. (The neutral is grounded far enough away from our house ..) This voltage is exploited by the Ukrainian .. It is neither constant nor continuous ..
the price is safety and I am pretty sure you still have to pay for the energy in the end becuase you are drawing current from the meter in the end through the neutral wire
Not true. No metering of earth leakage current between earthing points. Only metered current is between active and neutral. Please do further research. Potential difference between earth points is well known by electricians. Ask your mate who's a sparky. 👍
Whether from a ground fault, induction, etc. It all depends on having a source in the first place. If ur doing it as a prepper, youll probobly be seriously disappointed if the grid goes down and there is no source to begin with.
Unfortunately this isn't free energy. You still have to pay for your power coming into the house. It is very cool that you can run things off of stray voltage like this but still not free.
In this instance it would be considered "free" because you aren't taking voltage directly from the mains power, rather the ground which wouldn't be tracked by most authorities. Kerosan never fails with the smart videos!!!
It's not free and its not from the ground, it's "stolen" from his own instalation, only reason it happens it's because his own instalation is not properly grounded, he is taking some voltage lost in his own instalation via devices plugged. And maybe from his neighbour cause what he is doing is making additional grounding to the transformer, is in fact energy lost in "ground cable" N that is connecting transformer nearby with other people or his home. There is nothing free there he will be charged for this as well, because thanks to this voltage on mains L connection will rise a little bit. THere is nothing free here, it cannot be replicated except home with bad instalation
@@KabelkowyJoe thats actually what i meant, i think it was early morning when i was disagreeing though as i didnt explain things.. i was meaning to say yes it would take energy from the supply and cost money as a result.. theres nothing for free of course
@@KabelkowyJoe Exactly! He likely is running something akin to a transmission line where he is basically connected to the main via the magnetic field in the wire. He could likely coil his system around a ferrite core and see an increase in "free" energy as it would help he capture more of the magnetic field of the mains AC pulses.
@@KabelkowyJoe Exactly. The situation can also be created to a degree, even if your home's wiring is to code, but is coupled to the plumbing of a neighbors home with improper wiring.
This is the oldest trick in the electricians book, the volts are generated between the earth connection and the impedance of the earth/neutral wires, the amount of volts generated in the neutral wires is variable and alters depending on the amount of loading in the property's circuit, E.G no load no volts.
@@ozzymandius666 eric dubay the leading figure in flat earth has been banned 3x and free energy is not fine i know people in minnisota whom have actually had access to free energy and the gov came in and took everything.
This should also work if you put two metallic rods of reasonable length (~1m) in reasonable distance (>100m) into the ground. The earth is full of parasitic ground currents from the civilisation. Thats the reason why there are ground bars that ground the electric installation at a single point. Otherwise you can get electrocuted if you touch/connect two different "grounds".
If a high voltage line falls to earth, it's possible to be electrocuted just by walking toward it due to the voltage differential between your feet as you step. Example: One foot could be on a spot measuring 100,000 volts, the other could be on a spot measuring 95,000 volts leaving 5000 volts to pass through your body. However, what you propose is not possible under normal circumstances.
Check out the ROSCH 15kw electrical gen - its runs off the gravity field using alternating densities (submarine technology) the device is 10 m by 1m water filled pipe.
The best sistem for destroy the pipeline with electrolysis ,half century ago in Italy with big capacitor put in ground and in line was possible send counter the measure of the rig for the cost of pay ! It is beautiful to see this clever boys,thank you for your videos .
I wonder what the potential would be at the ground of the main panel and a direct zinc ground? Also I wonder if surface area would help or kill this circuit, like using the ground wire from one end of your house and Earth ground trying to catch all the grounded electrons in the house?
You're pretty smart guy. Consider here in the USA we only use 110 volts in our houses and 220 is just for appliances. That information should help I think. Also, you should use the volts to charge a car battery and get your power from the car battery so it will be consistent. Use a dc to ac converter to convert it back to a usable 110 volts and buy American stuff that works on 110 volts. Viola, you have accomplished what you are trying.
Very good. You have a proven concept there, some better equipment would help. Maybe a tesla coil could ramp up the voltage. I think the key thing here is that multiple connections like this one could charge a large battery array and then "trickle" charge it, 24/7/365.
