Hi Brian Just watched all three of your diff and haled videos. Really informative and well done; keep up the good content. Could I ask where you got your torque values and any information from about the rebuild? Are there any tolerances on the diff that we need to measure at all (you mentioned shims in the diff video) Anyway keep it up. Jools
Hi, Jools, the info on torque values etc. are from a Freelander workshop manual l bought a few years ago on CD when we first got the Freelander which is very comprehensive, l am out of the country for 2 weeks but weeks but can send you the info when l get back. I was told by our local LR guy that if you use quality bearings you put the same shims back in because the new bearings are so accurately manufactured these days. I think the diff carrier bearings and inner pinion bearings were Timken and the outer pinion bearing (which is generally the one that causes the issue) was SKF.
@@TheCADengineer All good info. I have a the normal manual but not sure that has those torque values in it. When I get mine on the road I may ask you for values if it turns out the diff needs doing.
I'm quite sure LR released an official technical service bulletin for this very problem. A shame really, considering they're so capable and reliable once this issue is sorted. I don't think the Diesel or Petrol has any glaring issues anywhere else (besides the door locks failing but that's an LR signature!)
We have had a few different makes of 4X4's over the years for towing, but the Freelander 2 has been the best as it's very nice to drive just as a car, but tows exceptionally well.
You are spot on Dennis, it's funny JLR say they are sealed for life and don't ever need servicing Ford and Volvo a different story I use a Ford kit to service my Haldex, My Freelander2 2.2 GS Manual has done nearly 200,000 miles from new and serviced by myself never seen a LR dealership, it's getting on a bit now 2007 but still tows my caravan regularly. Great Vehicle if maintained correctly.
Hi, The outer “O” ring was slightly damaged where it was exposed to the atmosphere on the outer edge as the aluminium had swelled with that white powdery corrosion. I cleaned the surfaces with some fine wet and dry paper, turned the o ring around and swapped the outer for the inner and put the pump back with a smear of grease on the mating surfaces, all good and bone dry.
I’ve owned a FL1 & 2 FL2s now. There’s no comparison. The FL2 is light years ahead. As for reliability both of them have cost me less to own than the FL1 did.
I bought the Haldex service kit from Bell Engineering, you get the filter, filter end cap with O ring, the 2 filter mounting screw and the big O ring where it mounts on the diff. I had to phone them to order the kit as there’s 2 types for gen 3 or gen 4, l think the filters are a different length better the 2 types.
Not the flange but there's a metal cupling at the flange it's a balancer for the driveshaft and makes doing some jobs a nightmare and it was only fitted to some later models and dosnt serve much purpose only getting in your way
Interesting. So the larger diameter part that actually stops the pump being removed can be cut off and discarded without affecting the fit or function of the prop and Haldex? I wonder if anyone has videoed this process as I suspect it would be popular.
My freind has worked in landrover 19 years and he cut the one of my wife's evoque as my freelander didn't have one I seen him do it in less than a minute with a ryobi cordless before he serviced the haldex and he's a master tec in jaguar landrover
Hi Hugh, l know about Bell Engineering, but we are in Cornwall and it’s a 500 mile round trip for us, plus the cost of the work. I also like to do the work on my own vehicles. Regards Brian
Land Rovers word is as good as the manufacturing. They are rubbish. I think every owner of Freelanders +, have, had or are going to have trouble with the Haldex unit.. Most certainly not cheap fix if you cannot do it yourself.
