Perfectly done instructional video. I learned a great deal without having to wade through 20 minutes of buildup and non- relevant chatter growing on a number of other channels. Thumbs up.
Brilliant Lindsey! You talk fast yet delivery an informative message with clarity along with complimentary visuals. A useful summary of the key aspects of freezing motion indoors.
Nice and clear explanation. There are also flash heads that allow you to use shutter speed way above your synch speed. I find them more predictable and easier to use.
Thanks so much Lindsay, this is super helpful. I've always wondered about this but have never really understood it. Your explanations are always so clear and straightforward. thanks also to the poor model !
Yet again another great video , I love playing with flash but never knew there was a freeze mode learn something new every day when watching one of your video's Lindsay , keep them video's coming love your work.
You're addictive! This is the second clip ive seen from you and you're just on it in so many ways. Intelligent, confident, and you sell you self with a given strength in your word and motion. Makes me wonder if you got this from your Mother or Father's side, or if it's self development.
The flash duration of some strobe units (such as Speedotron 2403 models) actually become longer as you decrease power as they don't use an IGBT circuit, so test your gear.
Great tips! I'm not shooting in a studio, but planing to it! Just red your Guide to posing and trying to implement the tons of info I learned! Thank you!
Thanks @lindsayadlerphototography love your work as usual! I always take away inspiration and technique from your photos, tutorials and written material.
when it comes to freeze fluids ... for me the best way ist to take the best of both worlds ... a fast flash duration AND a fast shutter speed ... meaning: the use of a leaf shutter camera
Great video! I have not considered flash duration to this detail in my efforts until now; thanks! BTW Did the model get hazardous duty pay or catch a cold after this shoot? ;0)))
L - great vid as usual - do you have instructionals on your post work - the last shot you show looks as if you have put some interesting post work into skin. many thanks, simon
@@lindsayadlerphoto ah, ok. i was wondering how the models feel about the 'modifications' made to them sometimes in post? shaving off shoulders, neck or ears etc...
Yes, It can be done. You have to kill any ambient light by at least 3 stops most important so use the fastest shutter speed without using highspeed sync normally it is 200 or 250 need to read your manual if you don't know. 1over 1 power will have a longer flash duration so less power will have a faster flash duration! If you need to use a higher ISO, that's a global change It will affect ambient light and Flash! When you add a flash to your camera you now have two exposures! Shutterspeed controls Ambient light (using fast Shutter speed to eliminate ambient @200 or 250) now the only thing is exposing your image is flash that has a fast flash duration. If you shot in a pitch-black room with no ambient light then shutter speed doesn't matter for the exposure only flash! So you could have 15 second or more shutter speed and only get exposure from the flash. Think outside the box, using a completely dark room with long shutter speed, using one Speedlight off-camera with a camera on a tripod, you don't need a radio trigger or flash cable to fire the Speedlight! All you have to do is press the test button on the Speedlight! after you pressed the shutter button on the camera! Now think more outside the box one Speedlight can become multiple lights by just moving the flash and using the test button! For this, your subject should not be moving to not get multiple exposures unless that's what you are going for.
Yes! But please keep in mind that 1/19000th is not the T.1 reading (in other words it won't compare directly against the numbers I provided you from my strobes).
@@lindsayadlerphoto I completely understand that and I'm not sure if that is the t.1 or t.5 measurement. I don't have a light meter that will measure it. Will just have to do some testing to see how it performs the old fashioned way.
Hi Lindsay. Great tips, but I have a question. While reducing the power of the strobe to increase t/1 speed you mentioned that it will be necessary to rise ISO to compensate and have the same exposure. My question is, if I increase my ISO more ambient light will be available, so should I increase the shooter speed of the camera to balance that ambient light? Thanks again for your help
This is part of the reason why I said to reduce ambient light... then you wont have to worry so much. And no, you can't increase the shutter speed of the camera above your camera's sync speed for this example. So, just get rid of ambient and up iso or bring the light closer in (bringing it closer in fixes both problems actually)
@@Toglander High Speed Sync drastically reduces a flash's output potential. It can't expose near as much power. You would have to crank a full frame camera all the way to its slowest shutter speed (1/8000th) to get even close to what her flash duration is getting here which is even faster, and by shooting above your sync speed, the strobe loses a ton of output. It's highly likely your strobe won't have enough power to expose your shot in HSS. HSS is more appropriate outdoors without modifiers or with reflectors that actually focus the light and even increase its exposure potential by up to a stop, not modifiers in the studio that eat quite a bit of light like a beauty dish used here.
You have to worry about your camera's sync speed... basically for most cameras the. maximum shutter speed it will work with for strobe is usually 1/200 or so (depends on brand/camera)
very nice tuto. i see T=1/500, which means HSS. do you recommend hss for shorter T0.1 ? I am interested by another tuto explaining how to configure F stop of different flashes in a studio. I don't have D2 with special freeze mode but only godox V1, ad200 pro and soon ad400pro. OK too ? what is the rule of thumb ? min 1/3000sec T0.1 ?
I experimented. Don’t hyper sync. Hss will increase the flash duration. Go under your hss shutter speed. My camera hss at 250. So i shot at 200. I have the ad 200 too. Turn it down till flash duration is really fast.
On the Godox Pro strobes you mention, freeze mode is using the strobe without "Color Accuracy" turned on. CA should always be kept on unless you want to freeze motion like she does here, OR perhaps if you're shooting outside with battery. CA requires you to recycle the strobe after changing the power, and it recycles at full power. Meaning if you are shooting on limited battery on location, you will have fewer shots available on a single battery.
I have 1 Godox QT 600iii strobe that does "freeze" mode. They call it "High speed Flash Mode" ( very easy to get confused with the already confusing topic of HSS & stroboscopic and buried in the settings F1 speed) If I use that as my main light and wanted a 3 light setup could I use Godox V860iii or other strobes that have HSS capabilites as my fill lights and if so what setting would it be on? HSS? Yes its a weaker flash duration but would it work? Just trying to be creative with the gear I already have.
I think you'd have to do a bit of research to see how the other strobes (without freeze mode) can have faster flash durations. Yes, typically lower power works but not always. As long as you can get them all pretty fast, yes it will work. If however you have other strobes that are in fact longer flash duration, make sure they are ideally not illuminating the models (may work as a background light for example depending on the setup).
@@lindsayadlerphoto Thank you for taking the time to reply Lindsay! I've got my fingers crossed my upcoming shoot will give me beautiful results using water. BTW..... I am in LOVE with your new water shots taken with your new R5 MarkII camera! TDF💥! Your always such an inspiration. ❤📸
Nice to see that you are measuring in T0.1 time, and NOT! T0.5 like the most of the RU-vidrs dose! When they are talking about 1/50.000 sec flash duration, (T0.5) compared to 1/8000 seconds on a camera, it’s totally nonsense! Thanks for the honest video👍
Freeze mode with Profoto is Color Accuracy mode turned off on Godox. The concept is the same. There's always a give or take. With great color consistency, the strobe outputs for longer and with slower recycle times. With faster speed, the strobe output is shorter and recycle time longer, but it's less able to control color consistency. Generally, the color shifts and inaccuracies occur when you change the power of your strobe, not as much across multiple shots at the same power setting. So as long as you take a new white balance and possibly even color checker profile when you change your power, you should be mostly fine with a single light! The issue is actually far more problematic when using several lights, because the white balances of the individual lights could vary dramatically. In this case, a Color Checker and white balance could help because you are at least getting a good "average." But it's always important to keep in mind. With better color comes shorter flash durations and longer recycle times. With faster flash durations in a freeze mode comes color unreliability.
Lay down black plastic for easy clean up if a model is not jumping around! A wet-dry shop vac is a good option to have or a good old fashion mop! Don't forget a kiddy pool to catch the water as an option & on sale now because the season is ending! So much you can do with a kiddy pool for photography! Shoot outside at Night no cleanup at all.
Stating that flash duration is linked to flash power is misleading. The duration depends on the technology used. Consult the manufacturer’s data sheets or make your own measurments.
Lindsay Adler Photography Metering the flash duration gives an indication. The effective duration depends also on system latency and sync timing. Mind you, the above won’t matter that much when using a focal plane shutter at 1/250s.
