Suburbia, Be sure to watch the 2nd Part of this video, for bleeding the Brakes. I like to change/replace the Brake Fluid by bleeding the Brakes until I get fresh, clean, new Brake Fluid out of the System. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Thanks, appreciated on your description, getting right to the point of explanation! I won't be changing callipers, so that will make the job a little easier, the only difference I see, after doing my F150 fronts, is there was no 'screw'! Unsure, why it's really needed, as everything is well seated once the caliber is in place, and the wheel lug nuts are on, holding all in place!
Powerstroke, You are welcome! If you do the Brakes (or remove the Rotors really) on a new Ford Vehicle, they come with a non-reusable spring washer on them to hold the Rotor during OEM Assembly. You damage it when removing the first time and it is not reused. The Hondas, GM and some other manufacturers use the screw, which aid during original assembly, this is the main reason, I believe for the screw. Sometimes . . . for some Rotor / Caliper combinations the Rotor can move on the Wheel Studs with the Caliper installed, this may be a reason to have a Screw, but I believe a poor reason. I put a generous amount of anti-seize on these Rotor Screws, They will not back out, they are captured by the Wheel. - Stiles
Michael, Nope, no surprises on the rear, but I did do a video which will help you! (link below) and the video to show you how to bleed the Brakes. I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles Rear Brake Service, Part 1 - New Pads, Rotors and Calipers - 2015 Honda CRV, FWD (’12 thru ’16 CRV) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y4XonuYXRDg.html Rear Brake Service, Part 2 - Bleed Brakes & Change Fluid - 2015 Honda CRV, FWD (’12 thru ’16 CRV) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kVqQ4BWoamM.html
Awesome thanks for the reply. I watched both parts an im almost ready to do my own break change. One last question, how much break fluid did you use during the rear break change? And did you keep bleeding it till it ran clear or just until all the air was out. Also would there be a major difference in the amount for these two approaches?
My 2016 crv is making a clunking noise when i go in reverse. It does 2 clunks at once and that's it. I took it to Honda and they said it is the front brakes and it is normal since the desing of these breaks is a bit loose so they move inside and that creates the clunk. The solution is to put some kinf of paper that removes the noise, but it is a temporary and then u have to come back for the same procedure. Did this car you are fixing have this issue? and if yes, did your parts replacement help?
Mitica, Some cars use Brake Pads that have a Spring on them to eliminate Pad movement, yours do not. Your problem sounds like you may have a sticky Caliper, it would be worth removing the Calipers and ensuring the Pins are well lubed. I hadn't heard of the Paper Shim that the Dealer is talking about. I wouldn't use Paper. What I would do first is (if the Calipers are ok) replace the Pads (even if that have a lot of life left, they are cheap) and replace the Parts Kit, that is the little shiny metal clips (I point to them at 2:05 in the video) on the Caliper that the Pad ends ride in. If I was going to Shim your Brakes this is where I would Shim them, under these Slides. I would try new Parts first. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive I noticed Hondas appear to have switched back and forth on whether the slotted caliper pins are on top or the bottom. Ended up placing them on top on both the left and right side and haven’t noticed any issues.
@@AlienCatcher23 Yes, I think that is the best! Think about the normal (Vehicle moving forward) movement of the Disc Brake Rotor, it pushes the Brake Pads and then Brake Caliper down, so then the Bottom Pin and Bottom Slide on the Caliper Bracket take more of the Load. Well, the Caliper Bracket takes the Load, but the Bottom Pin takes more Load then the Top Pin. - Stiles
