Front crank case seal www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3802820/ Front crankshaft seal installation tool www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3824498/ Front Crank Case Seal Kit www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/stock-replacement/dodge-89-07-front-crank-seal.htm
Thank you for not editing out the challenges, like the harmonic balancer removal, too many video's edit difficulties, therefore editing the process of solving those difficulties. It takes great effort to for an experienced mechanic to put themselves in the mindset of the inexperienced and not skip over some minor but important details. Great job, thanks again, Chris
@@thoroughbreddiesel thank you very much ! I have a question about cover gasket. Could you use a 12v gasket cover on 24 v cover instead to put sealant?
Just an FYI. Dodge sells this cover that has the seal already installed. Save you the headache of installing a new seal in the cover, and cleaning the cover you’ve taken off. It cost me $75.00 for the cover. (2014 Ram 2500 SLT 6.7L). Be careful with the fan motor, and the clip, it breaks easily and the motor isn’t cheap. Be careful not to dent the radiator. Stay calm, and good luck.
I've seen other ways to do this job, but THIS guy goes through every process! I watched the video 3 times before I started and had to revisit some parts as I was doing the job. I'm glad that I ordered the crank repair sleeve because my crank snout was really worn (at only 228,000 miles!), causing a monster oil leak. The Ford permatex and the LocTite 545 worked beautifully. Installed a KDP kit and a water pump while I had it apart. Thanks for such an informative video, sir!
Do the new front crank seals that have a red coating on the outside still require the LocTite 545? A lot of conflicting info out there. Some say the red coating is a sealant and adding the LocTite to this will make it leak. Thanks @@thoroughbreddiesel
I'm planning on getting everything I need to install both gaskets on my 94 12 timing cover.... Always majorly saving my life motivational to me.... Salute , , blessings to everyone grind and motivations......
Great video.Thank you.I found it much easier to use your excellent fitting tool with a hydraulic PRESS ,than a hammer.Easy to get it to go in 'square'.The comment about the clearance between the cover and the gears is important.Mine had just clipped the inside of the cover in 2 places. Use a Gasket !!
You guys have the best videos I watch them all the time and it helps me work on my 06 2500 & 3500 everything is always explained meticulously and well and everything is done to a T love them. Please don’t stop making them.
Wade, thank you so much for all the videos you and your team produce for us dyiers. Thoroughbred diesels help all us owners keep our vehicles on the road. Thank you sir
as all was a great video a couple of guys tryed telling me you had to remove the camshaft iv went to Dana Tec school in Ohio i guess they thought a old timer was to stupid to do this CRANK SHAFT seal just as i expected it to be stright forward thank you THOROUGHBRED DIESEL
I’ve done mine, your video helped. I didn’t have any of the fancy install tools but was still able to get it installed properly. Used a small piece of wood to install the sleeve. Biggest trouble I had was harmonic balancer bolts were really tight and wanted to strip. Put heat to then carefully and they came out good. Ended up putting new bolts back in.
The trick to loosening the front crank bolts is to remove the transmission inspection plate underneath. Use a prybar to hold the flywheel still and then you can have at it
To avoid the necessity of installing a wear sleeve I installed my new seal into the cover at a different depth…a depth where it would ride on a new virgin spot on the crank as opposed to riding on the exact same worn spot as the old seal by taking depth measurements from cover to seal to insure that it went in square. So I didn’t use the depth tool instead I used a depth measurement tool to get equal measurements taken at 120 degree intervals locations. If I recall correctly my three measurements were .115 depth from cover surface to seal so wear sleeve was not needed because the new seal would ride on the crank at a new depth location. After approximately 5k miles it doesn’t leak at all. I removed the cover to do the kdp tab instal at approximately 320k miles on my ‘97 12valve.
Great job, you didn't mention any speculation as to reason for seal failure, while no close-up crank didn't look bad at all. Wondering if crank ventilation malfunction is causing pressure in crankcase wearing out seal prematurely. My 2005 3500 5.9 seems to be leaking , amount is considerably different with RPM..
always put the top stud back in before putting cover back on and use it to guide you on , then ya don't have to rotate cover any to find bolt holes and mess up yer RTV
It is not wise to lay the fan clutch down. It should always be sat down in a vertical position. The part suppliers have even learned to set them on the shelf upright bc the fluid will travel to one side of the clutch causing premature failure
Major life motivational.... 8m bout to order timing cover kit for 94 Cummins dually.... Salute , Blessings to everyone grind and motivations.... Shoot do y'all need a other truck for a " how to do video " lmao ...
Well today I found out changing oil my seal is leaking, at 62 years old this will take a few days, I'll order your installers. I'm a diesel mechanic for 42 years, I'd heat wear sleeve on Macks in oil to 250 degrees and install fast with welding gloves. Yea I'm old
The 4 or 5 bolts @ 7m30s I had those bolts all Loosen up and sheer all 4 or 5. I had a heck of a time. Also took me a while of just staring at the carnage to even understand what happened
The crankcase cover appears to be just pressed steel. If some ape has cranked down on the bolts it may have become distorted from the ideal flat plane. I didn't see mention of checking the cover but the one he shows installing seems to show distortion near the crankshaft area. When installing valve covers, pans or other such parts I like to determine their plane by sliding them along a very flat abrasive surface and see what doesn't show contact. If it's not very true I try to correct it by various means. Thoroughbred Diesel said applying permatex only to the engine side was wrong but didn't clarify if it's to be on both sides or just the cover side. I just got a 5.9 that just had the lifter cover gasket repaired but appears to have other oil leaks and a large fuel leak. It's kinda torn down now getting new radiator and inter-cooler cleaning. Looks like I'm into gear cover and front seal too @ 250k. A sticker says altered fuel system and injection pump has been replaced once and fuel tank module twice but I still can't see what lift pump it has now. Any ideas? 01 3500 dually HO 6spd X cab full bed. I did get a bit of tightening on the back of head banjo fuel return but not sure if this was the real leak.
Outstanding video guys. Just got myself a 98 3500 12v and it is leaking oil from the front seal and vacuum pump, making a mess of everything. Will definitely be buying the wear sleeve/ seal kit and both installation tools. Thanks for the info!
i always install from the back and even with the tool its never right im always going back to fix it from the front. if your motor needs a wear sleeve it probably needs a whole lot more than a wear sleeve
To save some time, I pull the 6 bolts off the pulley and take that off that way you can just zip the 4 bolts for the fan mount out. Saves having to fumble with a wrench.
Red scotch brite pad and pb blaster will usually get that damper worked loose be a good time to do water pump and belt tensioner on it tach drive sensor supposed to go on the studs 24 valve should be on side of block
Awesome video, was able to get it done on my 06’ 5.9 with 339,000 miles…was stressful, but this video helped every step of the way! Out of curiosity how much would it cost to do this job at Thoroughbred Diesel?
I'd have to say your videos are my new go to videos from now on when I'm working on my Commins 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 4×4 so needless to say I subscribed to your channel, good good EDUCATIONAL understandable directions and all around good to CONTENT, Thank you.
@@thoroughbreddiesel do you have a video on the rear main seal mine is leaking kinda bad ??? I know it a big job but if I had some direction that would help a lot any feedback would be much appreciated, Thanks.
On that where sleeve they got those coatings that helps prevent where diamond like coding is one of them and there’s other companies out there that do coatings also I bet you would make that sleeve last indefinitely and you won’t have to ever change it again anyway just an idea this is six in a row jim saying have a good day from Kennerdell PA
Thank you for the video . Your install tool appears to be very robust . If I were making one I always like to use threaded rod . I would take yours and drill a hole dead center and slide a piece of threaded rod right threw . Then I would take a piece of flat stock to cover the back side with a hole in it . Pass the threaded rod through put a nut on both sides and just crank in the nut on the tool side . Steady even pressure . I do it mainly because for me it'e easier as I do not have your skills or talent . Once again thank you for the video .
While this video is Super Informative, it adds one step that causes great confusion on my end. The Locktite 545 step... I have always heard & have always read in part instructions, that it is imperative this seal go in "clean & dry" without the aid of lubricants or rtv's getting it where it needs to go. In other words, the Teflon seal needs unobstructed/clean contact with the crank snout. If that's the case, why are we using the 545?? It seems to fly in the face of all the warning literature that usually come in the box with the Part.
Yes the 12 valve guys are lucky and they get a gasket. I know the rtv on the gasket works for people, but I never have done it. But if it works for you keep on keepin' on!
Is it normal for the wear sleeve to crunch onto the edge of the Key like that? If you warmed (220 degrees) the wear sleeve up it would slip on there...just slide it over until it touches the key and let it cool...boom you’re done. No tools required.
I am about to take this job on since I am replacing the radiator, thermostat, water pump and belt tensioner on my 2001 4x4 with 265k miles on it. I got the Ford 7.3 gasket maker like you recommended. It recommends a couple of other Ford products for cleaning and prepping the surfaces for this task. One of these recommended products is from $160-$250 for surface cleaning wipes. I'm obviously not going that route and wanted to ask what you would recommend as a cleaning solvent for this in addition to using scotch brite. Thanks for making these helpful videos for us do it ourselfers.
Yeah there are some great folks here in KY. I see you over at Sam's V Belt often. Thought I'd say hello. These guys are not far from me and very knowledgable and helpful. A KY way.
Wade it’s a good idea to replace your oil pump while you have the timing gear cover off and the water pump on your belt drive , while you have access to these parts .
do you wait for the rtv sealant to harden or put it on wet? thanks for the great vid. With my luck, I'll strip or break one of those 10mm bolts... What happens then-- put the truck down like a lame mule?
I have this can below my crankshaft filter, there's a tube from filter to this can. I have oil all over the front. I can't see where it's leaking around the crankshaft cover. I'm going crazy with all this oil.
I was searching for a rear main seal video but could not find. Is the rear pretty much the same process particularly with the loctite 545? Thanks great video!
Great video! I'm doing a full rebuild on a 5.9 right now and have referred to a few of your videos now. I have already put my harmonic balancer back on and missed putting the dust seal on. Did you put one on in here? Am I ok without it or should I pull it apart?
Have you done or could you do a bearing change on the fan hub ? On a 5.9 ... There has to be a way to change out the bearing and not buy the whole assembly
Older video but did anyone else watching this when he held up the cover with the sealant on it and think, that’s a lot of sealant going into the oil pan/pick up screen!
Thank you very much for this video! I am wondering how to remove an old repair sleeve? Will it be easily pulled, or is there another tool which will be needed? I am getting ready to tackle this, and will be picking up all the correct tools, and supplies from you guys to do so.
More than likely if you didn’t put a repair sleeve on the engine, it probably won't have one. The Cummins procedure for removing an old sleeve is to lightly chisel the old sleeve off, being careful not to damage the crank.
Weld 4 nuts onto the sleeve and make a metal plate with 4 holes a d put a wooden block In between then insert bolts a d evenly crank down on the bolts until it pulls the old sleeve off but wear sleeves are not installed from the factory so u won't alwasy have one
@@tonynewsomjr.4043 Wow I'd never put welding heat to the crankshaft like that, seems risky and unnecessary. I'd rather chisel it carefully as recommended.
Couldn't you take the six bolts off the fan drive pulley, remove the pulley, then have access to use a ratchet and socket on the bolt behind the pulley?
You can, in this case the bolts on the pulley were tight enough that I couldn’t hold the pulley and get the bolts broke loose, so I removed the whole drive.
Great video Wade. Answered many questions I have except one. Can you do a video on removal of work wear sleeve? I have a 96 that has one needing replacement. Thanks
I am at a loss. I have done this 3 times now and each time I just make a big mess a destroy the new seal or get the seal cocked off crooked because it will not fit over my crank and wear sleeve. The fitment is so bad that it even pushes the new seal out a d out of alignment and that's even after it had plenty of time to dry in the cover.
Replaced my front main using your instructions. As it turned out I definitely needed the wear sleeve. Easy to put on. Works like a charm...no more leaks 👍 Thanks for the video and instructions 👍
How do you know if your crank is worn enough to require the wear sleeve? Or can you install it on any? I have 400k miles, but no evidence that it is over worn. Need to do KDP, don’t want to get it all open and then learn the hard way that I needed it or didn’t need it. If it’s not sufficiently worn, can the wear sleeve still be installed? Great video, I like that it shows the work and some of the challenges.
