7:22 Wheel bearing grease seal installed backwards. These are solid seals (no recess on one side vs other) and the small seal should go to the outside nearest the spindle. Check out Pelicans, "Porsche 911 Front Wheel Bearing Replacement" tutorial and see it is indeed backwards. That is not good. This is the second video I have seen installed upside down. Surprised nobody caught it, it is pretty clear to see on other photos/videos that this is backwards.
Just a friendly reminder that working with your daughter in the shop is a good opportunity to teach about many things but should also include hazards of chemicals and flying parts. I would encourage you to make her wear ANSI Z.87 rated safety glasses, and understand what chemicals are inert versus ones that might do harm. At least the safety glasses--that press can make things go flying.
I'm amazed at how many vids I've watched that depict no finger Harry's . If the guard on your angle grinder gets in the way don't throw it away! cut it down and put it back on .
Is that per Porsche spec to use moly for wheel bearings? It´s meant for lower speed applications such as CV joints & I´ve heard it can cause bearing skidding in higher bearing speed applications...
Question - you media blasted the aluminum hubs and then installed them without any surface protection (chemical surface oxidizing, painting of powder coating) - is this because of the haste of the fix and planned for later or should it stay like this? Mine came from a real rust bucket of a Porsche 912 and the aluminum hubs have some deep surface rust - after media blasting, the surface in those areas is still very rough and probably prone to further (accelerated) oxidation ?
You have to heat the hub and freeze the races, otherwise you’ll destroy the hubs. If races are cocked you will not be able to get proper bearing adjustment.
kavs911 What calipers did you use to convert your front brakes from solid discs to vented discs? I am looking for some front calipers that are wide enough for vented discs.
You should be able to re-use the existing calipers, if you buy the adapter plates (flat plates that are installed between the two caliper halves - just needs longer bolts).
Probably a ready-to-buy pipe connection piece (hardware store, to go from one diameter to another) and then grinding the hex protruding part on the two endings. Look for cast-iron pipe transitions.
Not the Greatest engine removal ! ! I can remove mine in less than 1/2 hour with gearbox attached . I find 2 skate boards under each heat exchanger is the easiest way to move engine / gearbox around .
@@kavs911 yeah it works theres nothing wrong with doing it that way (apart from the overly complicated stack of things to level it out that can spring out at warpspeed if something binds up) easiest and quickest way (and the way i was taught) is simply put a larger nut or sleeve over the threads against the hub itself, then run a wheel nut onto it with a rattle gun, you can just watch it sink into its hole from the other side and then done. Wont harm the threads at all or the hub itself; ive done it a thousand times and you will do 5 studs in less than 2 mins instead of hours per hub Hope that helps. Also i couldnt believe the brake shoe spring would interfere with the tensioner like that so i looked it up. And you are right, turns out instead of designing a ratcheting mechanism to stop the adjuster backing itself off they just use the spring as a retainer. Cheap and efficient i guess, just so wierd!