Fuel Injector & Washer replacement - Shown on Mitsubishi L200 (4D56) - start up smoke solved ! 

You are welcome! and a great tip - thanks for commenting

Thanks! 👍 the extra washer solved all our issues ! yet the injectors did not come with them :(

Thanks for the comment 👍👍

Cheers

😍 next on the ramp is Bosco our 2010 L200, back from the dead, with his newly rebuilt engine

@@DrivenMadShow looking forward to the next installment...... Stefano

We are necking the Bud Light - dancing in mankini's, celebrating Dylan Mulvaney wankfest - or injector fest as we call it ! Hope Mrs. S. is sorting out your man eggs in holiday style ....

For us it was just a few extra cranks when trying to start. Nothing needed. 👍

Very kind ! we are looking into that :)

Stefano, this is Murdock, he does not need a bleed, not a drip of fuel came out, popped the lines back on, fired up first turn of the key :). ... or is that just lucky ! 🥷🏾

@@DrivenMadShow Hi Jon & Nath, Happy Easter to you both. You were probably just very lucky? On your vehicle there is a priming hand pump located on the top of the fuel filter. The normal air bleeding procedure would be to Slacken off the flare nut from the furthest injector from the filter, then pump the diesel through the fuel line until it's clear of all air bubbles. Then tighten the flare nut and repeat with the other fuel lines. Best to utilise either a flare nut spanner, or crows foot to prevent rounding off the flare nuts. Looking forward to your next installment. Take care and stay safe. Best to you both. Stefano

I am - old and knackered knee are showing my new found laziness ... ashamed 🙈

@@DrivenMadShow Being old and knackered with a busted knee myself... i totally get it...;-)

@@dockingtroll6801 l feel your pain....

Luckily the injectors are pretty tough and much larger than some I’ve seen. I’d recommend giving them a spray with penetrating fluid before each drive for 2 days or so, just to help with removal. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. Thanks for the comment 👍

​@@DrivenMadShow Thanks for your reply, turns out I was worrying over nothing they came out fairly easy. I'm trying to cure a power loss and black smoke problem on acceleration that I have had for a couple of months now. I started by fitting a new air filter and cleaning out the egr but it made no difference. So l am now changing injectors and fuel filter, if they fail to do it any more suggestions??.

Check the cat (if you have one, that just killed our 2010 L200 as clogged) or turbo for leaking seals

Experts we are not - but what I can on line : A non-common rail engine, specifically older diesel engines, can run on waste oil, but there are several important considerations and modifications that need to be addressed to ensure proper functionality and to avoid damage to the engine. Here's a detailed overview of what you need to know: Types of Waste Oil Waste Vegetable Oil (WVO): Used cooking oil from restaurants or homes. Waste Motor Oil: Used engine oil from vehicles. Suitable Engines Older Diesel Engines: Pre-1990s mechanical injection diesel engines are generally more suitable for running on waste oils because they are less sensitive to fuel quality compared to modern engines. Indirect Injection (IDI) Diesel Engines: These engines are more tolerant of different types of fuels. Preparation and Processing Filtering: Waste oil must be thoroughly filtered to remove particulates and impurities. This can be done using multiple stages of filtration, starting with coarse filters and moving to finer filters (1-5 microns). De-watering: Removing water from waste oil is crucial to prevent damage to the fuel system and engine. This can be done by heating the oil and allowing water to settle at the bottom, then draining it off. Modifications Dual Fuel System: A common approach is to install a dual fuel system that allows starting and shutting down the engine on regular diesel fuel while running on waste oil when the engine is up to operating temperature. Heated Fuel Lines and Tank: Waste oils are more viscous than diesel, especially at lower temperatures. Heating the fuel lines and tank helps to reduce the viscosity, making it easier for the engine to pump and burn the fuel. Fuel Pre-filters and Water Separators: Additional pre-filters and water separators can help protect the engine's fuel system from contaminants and water. Injection Pump Adjustments: In some cases, adjustments to the fuel injection pump may be necessary to accommodate the different properties of waste oil. Potential Issues and Maintenance Injector Clogging: Waste oil can cause clogging of fuel injectors. Regular maintenance and cleaning are necessary. Engine Deposits: Waste oil may lead to increased deposits in the engine, requiring more frequent oil changes and engine cleanings. Corrosion and Wear: The presence of acids and other contaminants in waste oil can cause corrosion and increased wear on engine components. Legal and Environmental Considerations Legality: Using waste oil as fuel may be subject to regulations and laws depending on your location. It's important to check local laws and regulations. Environmental Impact: Burning waste oil can produce different emissions compared to standard diesel fuel. Proper processing and handling can mitigate some of these concerns. Step-by-Step Process Collect Waste Oil: Obtain waste oil from reliable sources. Filter and De-water: Filter the oil through progressively finer filters and remove water by heating and settling. Set Up a Dual Fuel System: Install a dual fuel system with heating elements for the waste oil. Adjust Engine Settings: Make any necessary adjustments to the fuel injection system. Monitor and Maintain: Regularly check and maintain the fuel system and engine. Running a non-common rail engine on waste oil is feasible with the right preparation, modifications, and maintenance. It's essential to ensure that the oil is properly filtered and de-watered and to monitor the engine's performance and condition regularly to avoid potential issues.

Hi there! Could have carbon or soot build up inside the egr or intake manifold. These are dirty engines 😂 Thanks for the comment 👍

We got our Injector washer and seal kit - from Euro 4x4 ( www.euro4x4parts.com )

إذا كان كل شيء يعمل بشكل جيد، فمن الأفضل أحيانًا تركه بمفرده :)

We get most stuff from www.ks-international.com or Mitzibits or euro 4x4 ( import tax from the UK is a bugger, but KS are very competitive and in general better quality items)

Hi! No the injectors were not OEM. But they work a treat. Not sure where we got them from but the washer set was Mitsubishi OEM. I totally get why you want OEM injectors. I’ve had my fair share of other non OEM parts failing, but luckily the injectors have been fine so far. Good luck on your search 👍

​@@DrivenMadShowI finally got around to replacing my injectors today. Followed your video step by step and everything went splendid 👍 thanks so much for creating these videos, they've saved me a tonne of money. You guys are awesome 👍😎👍

good shout - cheers

Unlikely but we are not experts - new Speedo cable or check yours 🧐

The dome side is down, there should be a seat on the other side that fits the injector ( I have look this up as I know naff all 😂) check out this photo, it explains it really well (shame we cannot attach photos in the comments). www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/93265-om-603-injector-heat-shields.html

Way past our paygrade - these should help you ... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jh-Qf0mAzUk.htmlsi=0Hq5sM86ExdJTFZk. &.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EL9FvEk6RlQ.htmlsi=uU1ZfdBsTzcqgOgu best of luck :)

Blue smoke is normally oil related - ours was white on start up only, the small seal was not there on the injectors, smoke now gone ! - yours is a tough one, worth a post on the L200 Facebook forum, obviously you will get twat answers, but there are a couple of bods who really know their stuff on there ...facebook.com/groups/mitsubishil200ownersclub/

Hi Avenash...... Regarding the blue smoke that is caused by oil burning within the cylinders. When you rebuilt the engine did you check all cylinders for wear and roundness, were they re-honed and de-glazed? Did you replace and check the piston rings gaps, were the oil scraper piston rings replaced? Did you check all the valves and Valve guides in the cylinder head for wear? Did you replace all the valve stem seals? Have you checked the turbo seals? Have you compression tested all the cylinders since the engine was rebuilt? Best regards, Stefano.

@@stefanobio7045 everything is new inside buddy. The previous diesel fuel pump has been redone also and the blue smoke was a lot even after rebuilt. Recently I’ve change the diesel fuel pump and this one appears more robust. Blue smoke from previous one was a lot but with this one is very less only for like 3 mins with normal Rpm