I was wondering the same thing. She mentions in the beginning that you need a FBA for a difference of over 2.5 inch between full and high bust. She then measured 3.5 inch on the mannequin, which would require 1 inch adjustment to get back within the the 2.5 inch range between high and full bust .. I just wonder how to calculate if the difference between the to is less than 2.5 inch and you still need an FBA due to a gaping armhole 🤔
This video is the best I have seen for explaining a complicated sewing process. I have been baffled for years! This video has inspired me to have another go, taking things one step at a time and I am sure that I will succeed this time. Thank you for such excellent and aware teaching.
Wow. I’m just learning to sew andI’ve been intimidated by the idea of an FBA. Most resources I’ve looked at are not thus clear in the step by step instructions. This video is great. Thank you!!
How do you know how many inches to add for full bust adjustment. If I heard correctly, in your example the full bust was 3 inches larger than the high bust, however, you only added an inch. I was a little confused at that.
Ok I figured it out in case anyone reading this in the future is wondering: Standard patterns are drafted based on a B or C cup, and if you would have a B cup the full bust would be 2 inches larger than the upper bust measurement. Since in this example the full bust is 3 inches bigger than the upper bust, she had to add 1 inch, since the pattern was drafted for a 2 inch difference (standard measurements for a B cup). She is actually explaining this in the video but it still took me a while and some calculations to understand 😅Math is hard sometimes! Great video overall!
I appreciate the explanation of how to use this technique, but I have some things I think would make the video more helpful as I tried to follow, but because I had to do guess work my pattern turned out wrong. Explaining exactly where a dart should be made using measurements. I had to do guess work based on the image of where the darts were in the video and it was not good on my pattern. I also need a 6 inch adjustment and seeing an example of how a large and small adjustment should be done would be more helpful. My adjustment attempt was a large one and the pattern looked completely different than the 1 inch example. I would appreciate more examples in larger adjustments since the patterns look very different in change. Also for the re drawing of the new darts, I was hoping for a more exact measurement of new dart locations, as my old darts were so spread apart I wasn’t exactly sure what to do because I just don’t. I know that it was said to redraw in kind of the center, but as I said, my pattern looked completely different than the 1 inch example and wasn’t sure where my new darts should be. So I guessed where the new center was and it turned out very badly 😕
This is a very clear tutorial! Thank you. Where would you add the full bust adjustment if the pattern has no darts? Also, do you add darts or leave it dartless?
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This is really helpful to see. I have tried these slash and spreading methods, but had trouble getting the paper to “hinge.” Seeing you do it, helps me see why what I’ve been doing hasn’t been working so well. I just did a similar adjustment on a pattern, and I finally got it to work, but this method would have been so much easier.
For anyone watching this excellent tutorial in the future, one critical detail was omitted. In this example, she determined that 1 inch extra was needed. The 3 inch difference between full bust and high bust, minus the standard 2 inches already drafted into the pattern by the manufacturer. However, the bodice has 2 sides, right and left. So, you must HALVE that difference so that the total adjustment is an extra inch. A half inch on each bodice side would make one inch total. Doing it as shown would add a total of 2 inches.
Thank you so much for the video demo its clear and easy to follow. this has helped me big time with having a go at a bust adjustment bodice as my figure changed after having my kids at age 40, I used to make my own clothes and all my patterns and since my mum died I had no one to fit me or measure the measurements I needed. now I will have a go and let you know if I managed to do it. I'm desperate for some home made to fit clothes. thanks a bunch. (: so happy for this info
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Thank you for this video! I've been scared to make clothes for myself but you explained this adjustment soo well. I've not got my own bodice pattern and I'm excited to try to make a dress!
this is so helpful have read numous books and watched a lot of videos but i must say you have explained this so user friendly its great. I feel this demo has gave me a more understandable way of doing this process. THANK YOU
As I understood it, move the centre point of your dart across in a straight line, repositioning it in the middle of the extra width you have gained through slashing and spreading. So halfway in to the paper insert you have taped in. Use the original dart legs and redraw from the dart legs to this new apex point.
When you added 1" that seems to have affected the bust spam as it looks like the apex is further away for making dart point. . Am I understanding correctly?
Thank you for the instructions, I need to make this adjustment on all my patterns too. I am a little confused about how you determined the one inch space….could you explain that again. Thank you so much, what a difference in the pattern. 😊
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So I recently made a shirt tighter since the armhole was 2 sizes bigger, but my chest was perfect as is. When I fixed the armholes by sewing the sides my shirt got so tight in my chest but everything else fit great. Now I want to fix this issue for my 3rd mock up to finally have a good pattern.
I have had very little success doing this adjustment b/c the side seams dont match. The front piece and the back piece at the sides are a different length. The side dart is so large. Can you advise please.
Hello, This method doesn't add any length to the side seam. However, it does add length to the center front area. At the side, all we are doing is creating a larger dart, to allow more fullness in the bust, but it will get sewn out with the dart. This way, the side seam will be exactly as long as it was before the adjustment. For more in-depth troubleshooting on the full bust adjustment, including how to deal with an overly large side dart, I recommend checking out CurvySewingCollective.com (curvysewingcollective.com/the-beginners-guide-full-bust-adjustment/) . Search FBA or full bust adjustment in the search bar to find some great tutorials. Best, Nicki
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Two points confused me. I hope you can help. First, you used a 1" increase arbitrarily and quickly said that's 3.5" increase. What if my bust is 5" larger than my upper bust. How do I calculate the dart increase? Second, when drawing the red lines on the side dart, I didn't understand. What were you lining up to? The opening with the craft paper was so much smaller. Last, ok third, my darts don't true correctly. When I form the dart and trim the side mine come out the opposite direction, nothing toward the seam allowance. Also maybe mention that the process you describe is on a pattern without seam allowances.
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