How to Do a Full Bust Adjustment on a Dartless Top

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This week on Fit Tip Tuesday I'm going to share how to do a FBA on a dartless top. Do your side seams are pulling forward at Bust level? Is the Center Front hem picking up a little bit? Or, do you have stress wrinkles across your bust? Adding ease by doing a full bust adjustment will fix all these issues. This technique can be used with stretch and non-stretch patterns.
00:00 Intro
01:58 How the Pattern looks after a Full Bust Adjustment
02:44 How to determine how much you need to adjust the pattern
04:23 Find the position of your bust on your pattern
06:08 How to do a Full Bust Adjustment
11:13 How to true up the front pattern piece after a Full Bust Adjustment
19:40 Outro
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Опубликовано:

1 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 111

@deb.m.7458 20 дней назад

This technique is golden and logical. Couldn’t find anything that made sense or was complicated. Thank you. This demonstration is very helpful. ❤

@JSternDesigns 19 дней назад

I'm so happy to hear that! Thanks for fitting along with me

@jori7398 Месяц назад

5:49 oh my word! So _that’s_ what the holes in the ruler are for… genius! Thank you so, so much. ❤️❤️❤️

@JSternDesigns Месяц назад

:) My pleasure, thanks for fitting along with me

@pandorasilver5808 Месяц назад

thank you very much for the time and effort put into this tutorial, I have found it very helpful,

@JSternDesigns Месяц назад

My Pleasure, Happy this helps you, thanks for fitting along with me!

@ToriLynnH Месяц назад

This looks absolutely doable!

@JSternDesigns Месяц назад

:) Thanks for fitting along with me

@lizajane99 Год назад

Finally, a video that will give me that full bust adjustment the way I want it. I keep trying to find a video that will make that area look more tailored to me. Thank you so much for providing this. I am saving it right now to my sewing playlist. I really appreciate you doing this video and providing us your expertise. Gratefully, Lisa

@JSternDesigns Год назад

So happy this helps you! Thanks for fitting along with me

@patgriffiths4772 11 дней назад

This was so helpful. Thank you.

@JSternDesigns 10 дней назад

You're so welcome! I'm happy to hear that this helps you, thanks for watching

@karisteinbacher4535 4 месяца назад

Always hated how dartless tops ride up in the front. Thank you for such a simple how-to video

@JSternDesigns 4 месяца назад

My pleasure!! ... Tops that ride up are no fun :) Thanks for fitting along with me

@Minbari209 10 месяцев назад

This is the best and easiest to follow full bust adjustment that I have seen. Thank you so much, I have been struggling but now it falls into place. I love your way of teaching, it's like having a private tutor 😀

@JSternDesigns 10 месяцев назад

Thank you so much... I'm happy this helps you, thanks for following along with me

@pageknox6672 Год назад

This is so much more logical than the other FBA's I have studied on youtube. Thank you so much.

@JSternDesigns Год назад

You're very welcome and I'm happy it helped! Thanks for fitting along with me

@aandjmom1 Год назад

Thanks SOOOOO much for addressing the BACK side seam! All the other tutorials leave that part out even though the side seam of the FBA clearly does NOT match the back pattern. TOTALLY APPRECIATED. subbed and notified.

@JSternDesigns Год назад

So happy this helped! Thank you for fitting along with me!

@lizajane99 Год назад

Same here!

@joyfine8304 4 месяца назад

This makes so much sense. Thank you.

@JSternDesigns 4 месяца назад

My Pleasure. Thanks for watching

@janicek6399 4 месяца назад

That easing on the side seam is brilliant! I never thought of measuring up from the hem and down from the arm hole. I've always just "guess and begosh". See you Friday

@JSternDesigns 4 месяца назад

:) Thanks! and thank you for following along with me!

@KD-ob1go 2 года назад

Thank you so much, you are an excellent teacher, i have never seen this before and your presentation was so clear.

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!

@julieryding2030 Год назад

This is exactly what I needed! Thank you. 😍

@JSternDesigns Год назад

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!

@HRH_Queen_JoJo 5 месяцев назад

This. Is. Fabulous. I’m working on my very first pattern adjustment and of course it’s a dress with open darts at the waist for shaping. First, I didn’t know my first problem was that I needed an FBA. Then, after RU-vid helped me figured that out, I couldn’t see how I was to do an FBA without having actual darts. Thank you, and now I know what I’m doing with my weekend!

@JSternDesigns 4 месяца назад

So happy to hear!! thanks for fitting along with me!

@petersdotter1 Год назад

Sensational! I had tried on my own, but didn't get it all taken care of. You just taught me the rest!

@JSternDesigns Год назад

So happy to hear!! Thanks for fitting along with me

@heidiluotolahti4305 6 дней назад

Very good

@JSternDesigns 2 дня назад

Thanks, and thank you for watching

@janicek6399 3 месяца назад

This is brilliant information, thank you!

@JSternDesigns 3 месяца назад

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching

@DLowryVA 7 месяцев назад

Thanks so much! So so so helpful!

@JSternDesigns 6 месяцев назад

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching

@pamelamarshall471 Год назад

This is light bulb moment! Thank you.

@JSternDesigns Год назад

You are so welcome & I'm happy this helps you, thanks for watching :)

@jals2953 2 года назад

Thank you! Perfect explanation and such clear instruction - the first time I’ve fully (pardon the pun) understood how this works. Will definitely look up other fitting ´mysteries’ via you from now on! 😄👍🏼

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

You're very welcome! So happy you're fitting along with me! Keep me posted if you have any specific questions, I love doing subscriber Q & A

@jgsawka 2 года назад

Excellent tutorial! Top notch instruction. Thank you!!

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me

@joycecaldwell4137 2 года назад

Thank You for this tutorial. I have found you just in time . We have recently move to a larger home where I will have my dream sewing studio. I haven’t been able to sew for a few years now and you’re tutorials have not only been refreshing my memories but I’ve Learned quite a few new tricks. Looking forward to seeing more! I’m making my self a new Wardrobe for the fall🤞

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

I'm so happy to hear and congratulations on your dream sewing studio! Thanks for fitting along with me

@annazann7236 6 месяцев назад

Extremely helpful, thank you! Everyone is adjusting standard darted patterns, and it is hard to find proper pattern manipulation videos for knits.

@JSternDesigns 6 месяцев назад

Happy to help! Thanks for fitting along with me

@kcastillo0319 7 месяцев назад

Brilliant. I'd been wondering about something like this since this kind of adjustment is used for full arm, full thigh, etc. I didn't know how to approach it. This makes wonderful sense. Thanks for the excellent tutorial and clear explanation. Kay in Dallas, Texas

@JSternDesigns 7 месяцев назад

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching

@Sososewist 9 месяцев назад

Thanks!

@JSternDesigns 9 месяцев назад

You're welcome! Thank you for watching

@tioiseau6 9 месяцев назад

Thank you for the very clear explanation. It’s the first time I understand everything about the fba. Other fba I saw change the shoulder size too. I appreciate so much your explanation too for the match to other pieces of the pattern.

@JSternDesigns 9 месяцев назад

Thanks so much... and thanks for fitting along with me

@Rosabel718 10 месяцев назад

Excellent

@JSternDesigns 9 месяцев назад

Thanks! and thank you for fitting along with me

@minna-maaritjaskari7793 2 года назад

I just loved this tutorial! Very well explained!

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!

@lindamarsh6271 2 года назад

Thank you for this. I'm definitely going to try it.

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

My Pleasure! Thanks for fitting along with me!

@makeitjoyful 2 года назад

Thank you so much! I have a pattern I've set aside to try this on. I was waiting for the how-to! Perfect timing!

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

You are so welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me!

@kellyeducre9821 Год назад

you are the best!

@JSternDesigns Год назад

Thanks so much, and thanks for fitting along with me

@barbaramallon4755 2 года назад

Wow, thank you so much again for this - I've never seen this done and I have needed to do this to my patterns for years since I wear lots of "loose" unstructured type tops.!

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

You are so welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me!

@ireneerickson1568 11 месяцев назад

This is great! I only have 2” difference which should be a B cup and no adjustment. However I often see pulling between bust points and need a bit more width in the bust area. (Oh and it seems my bust points are migrating south now as well!). Since there is no dart on the pattern it’s puzzled me how fix it correctly. I think this will work for me. I have a 4” difference between my under bust and bust point so the standard way of determining if I need an FBA doesn’t work for me.

@JSternDesigns 11 месяцев назад

With a B-Cup size, it may be easier to let the side seams out a little or pick a fabric that has a little more stretch ...If you want to try this to do a small fba, less is more, maybe spread the pieces 1/4" to give yourself a little bit extra room. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me

@juliejulie7622 2 года назад

This is great!

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Thank you! and thanks for watching

@carylwainscott9345 2 года назад

Jen, this is wonderful info! I've recently been on a journey to fit my daughter in woven tops and did my first FBA for her. She has a button up top she can wear now. (Still room for improvement :) Now I can try dartless tops for her. Thank you so much for this video.

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

So nice to hear from you, happy this helps!!

@annettebroomhall8617 2 года назад

An amendment to my previous comment. A f.b.a. on an ordinary darted bodice is what I should have said. Will try this as well. Excellent and precise instructions

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Good Luck... Keep me posted!

@tinayang3845 7 месяцев назад

Very good instructions!

@JSternDesigns 7 месяцев назад

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching

@tulip2many235 2 года назад

Just in time! I am about to construct a toile for a dartless bodice and I was wondering what I would have to do if I needed to make any adjustments. I think your tutorials are great and easy to follow, thank you!

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Glad I could help! Thanks for fitting along with me

@curveappeal8180 2 года назад

Finally!!! 🙂

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Keep me posted if you have questions, thanks for watching!

@dawnr1246 2 года назад

This video is great! Thank you so much. I have to do both a full bust adjustment and a narrow shoulder adjustment. Which should I do first when adjusting a pattern?

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Those two adjustments are independent from each other... so you can do them in any order you like. Typically, I start at the shoulders and go down when I'm adjusting my patterns. :)

@stephaniepaterson6340 Год назад

Hi, thank you so much for this you make it seem less daunting! I am only just working out what adjustments I need to make…finally worked out (hopefully anyway)that it’s a forward thrusting shoulder , narrow shoulders and this ! I’m only 5ft tall so thought it was a petite adjustment but that makes the arms unbearably tight…anyway, if I were to do this and the f.thrusting shoulders and narrow shoulders what order should I do them in? Thanks for your patience

@JSternDesigns Год назад

Thank you for checking in! You can adjust your armhole/shoulder/sleeve for a forward shoulder ball and do a FBA in any order you like.. they are independent of each other! Hope this helps

@stephaniepaterson6340 Год назад

@@JSternDesigns you always help! Thank you. The hardest part isn’t the sewing…it’s figuring out which adjustments I need!

@marieclark802 Год назад

Love your tutorials. Do you have a v neck tee pattern or video showing how to convert your patterns to v necks?

@JSternDesigns Год назад

Thanks! That will make a great tutorial... How to reshape a round neckline into a V-Neckline! Stay Tuned

@kendal4452 Год назад

To find out how much room you need, wouldn't it be much easier to measure the width of just the front half of your torso + ease + seam width? The question is what would be the amount of ease you would need?

@JSternDesigns Год назад

If the top pattern you're working with has the right amount of ease along the back, you can absolutely measure the front half of yourself! You can also cut a 5" strip of fabric the length of the original width of the pattern at the full bust... Then see how much you need to comfortably stretch the strip to the side seams. Thanks for fitting along with me!

@annettebroomhall8617 2 года назад

Thank you for your expertise. I know how to adjust for my full bust, but No one tells me how to alter the back. All instructions say to lengthen to fit, ease as necessary. I end up with the back roughly 1and1/2" too long. I have a g cup and therefore must lengthen the front as well as add width to allow the extra fabric. Hope you can find time to answer my question.

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Here is a tutorial ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zj7UhOlBkigs.htmlhowing how to shorten the length of the back of your knit top... Hope it helps!

@annettebroomhall8617 2 года назад

@@JSternDesigns thank you so much for answering my query. Another very helpful tutorial

@syreetabriana 2 года назад

Loved this tutorial! Two Follow-up questions - 1) do you always adjust length and width? 2)at the end you mentioned measuring the amount of vertical distance needed based on hem hike (eg 3/4) and the amount of horizontal room required based on side seam (1.25). If the two amounts are different, am I correct that you would slash and spread different amounts? In my example, first round, would be 3/4” for both. Second round would just spread the armhole/side seams 1/2” with no length adjustment?

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Thank you! I spread the pattern equally for length and width... The 3/4" difference occurred when I reattached the adjusted upper section to the lower section, creating a 3/4" gap in the side seam. Technically, you could spread the pattern along the diagonal slash line (creating more width) and not spread the horizontal line (adding no length). But, if you need more width usually you need a little extra length as well. The fabric has to climb up and over a "hill" in both directions! Let me know if this makes sense. Thanks Jen

@skyhowie54 2 года назад

Hi Jennifer, thank you very much for an excellent tutorial! If, instead of shortening the front side seam and lengthening the back side seam at the hemline, one were to gather the area in the side seam around the bust adjustment, would that negate the need to lengthen/shorten the side seams?

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Yes!! You can gather the extra length along the front side seam and ease it into the back side seam. This will give you more room along the side seam... especially helpful if your bust has fullness along the sides.

@del5241 Год назад

Would I copy the original pattern & make the adjustment to that. I have narrow shoulder’s & 38dd bust + a rounded upper back. I think Dawn R had a similar question. ❤ your instructions.

@JSternDesigns Год назад

:) Yes, make a copy of your original pattern so you have something to go back to if you need. Then adjust shoulders and do a FBA. Keep me posted on how things work out! Thanks for fitting along with me

@gmurray3616 Год назад

How did you decide on 6 inches for your FBM circle? Did you not need the tip to tip measurement ?

@JSternDesigns Год назад

The 6" circle is a guide or representation of where your fullest bust in positioned on the pattern (It's not an exact size). Thanks for watching!

@christiesteckelberg8366 2 года назад

How can we viewers learn where and when you’re teaching?

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Hi again, if you follow me on my instagram, I post my classes there. instagram.com/jsterndesigns/ You can also sign up for my monthly newsletter in my Instagram bio. I also have a facebook group where I post behind the scenes, classes and other sewing fun facebook.com/groups/2844012669147142

@libbybowles 2 года назад

When you measured to your apex it looked to me like 11" was at your high bust. This is interesting to me because my apex is 13" but when I lower my apex to that point on my patterns and then do my FBA, my darts often end up too low. I know this video is about adjusting for a dartless bodice but I'm wondering, because I wear an E/F cup, if maybe I'm measuring incorrectly to my apex.

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

You have a good eye… I was using my Body Tape Measure that starts a 2” instead of zero…. (So 13” - 2” = 11”) The actual bust dart should be approximately 1” below your apex.

@libbybowles 2 года назад

@@JSternDesigns Thank you! This was a very helpful video. I may use this method in combo with my regular darted FBA and hopfully be able to get rid of those giant "elephant ear" dart volumes I always end up with on fitted bodices!

@melissafrye8427 2 года назад

I need to make a bust adjustment of 2 inches. You recommended splitting it up if is over 3/4. Does this mean make an adjustment of 3/4, true everything up, and then make another 3/4 adjustment & so forth.

@JSternDesigns 2 года назад

Yes... You can also use a knit fabric that's a little more stretchy. If you work with 4-way stretch knit (Stretch both in the cross and lengthwise grainline) you may be able to get away with a little less of an adjustment. If you are working with a non-stretch pattern, do two 3/4" ... then make a test fit muslin to evaluate how much more you need before you do a third adjustment.

@melissafrye8427 2 года назад

@@JSternDesigns Thank you so much. Your videos are the best!

@sandraobrien8705 Год назад

I tried but I messed it up. I have never been able to make a FBA work and actually fit 😑 I hate doing them. I would love to have a small bust. This kind of thing takes all the pleasure out of sewing for me. Despite the major moan here, thank you for taking the time to post this. I thought it was well explained but no garment ever fits me when I do an FBA, it is so frustrating. It must be so nice to be the pattern size.

@JSternDesigns Год назад

I'm so sorry to hear that.. and I certainly understand your frustration! I have a 40 G-Cup bust so I do need to do an FBA on many top patterns. One I didn't need to do it for is the Tee in my Tee Twin Set pattern. It's designed for a curvy figure. Here's a link to that pattern so you can check it out. jsterndesigns.com/product/easy-fit-and-sew-tee-twin-set-pdf-version/ ...Also if you're sewing with knit fabric using a 4-Way Stretch knit is your friend when fitting tops because the fabric stretches both across your bust and over your bust vertically! Hope this helps...sending hugs!