i hope you guys enjoy my first ever movie i had about 9-10 hours of footage and it didn't feel right to upload multiple parts since everything in this video has 1 objective. get the engine built!
Really good video on building up these engines, just a few pointers for any future builds, or anyone following along Your main studs aren't getting full thread engagement on the nuts, and this is a known issue with ARP studs in these engines, you need to back the stud out a few turns by hand or drop a ball bearing in to the thread holes before the studs to space them out In future when checking rod bearing clearances, fit the pistons and rods with the rings attached to hold them in place You also want to check the rod bearing clearances with the ARP assembly lube on both the rod bolt threads and the underside of the head on the rod bolts, to ensure they achieve the correct torque Don't push the pistons in to the bore with one hard hit, but instead a series of softer taps with the hammer handle, whilst occasionally making sure the ring compressor is flat to the block It looks like you have the wrong long chain guide on the block, as it's not supposed to move in and out like that, which means it's probably for an Ali M52/M54 from an E46. There is a chain guide that is correctly spaced and held in place by the circlip that you fitted You really shouldn't have sprayed WD40 in the cylinder head for an overnight stint, but more importantly, it will now likely mix with the oil and cause contamination issues, as WD40 can be used to displace oil and decrease it's effectiveness. Just be sure to flush the engine very soon after first startup and engine break in When refitting the head studs to the block, you don't need to lube the block thread end of the studs, as they are supposed to be installed dry, as per ARP instructions. They do not rotate at all when the head is torqued down You don't need to use pliers to pull the pistons out of the lifters, if you place them on a block of wood and tap them with a rubber mallet, it will pop the Piston out Bleeding the lifters up before installation is fine, as they will bleed out to the desired height when the engine is running, it's actually the engine oil pressure that keeps them pumped up, which is why they fail in high revving applications When refitting the cam trays and lifters, just rotate the engine on the stand on to its side and you can slide the trays on to the studs with no danger of the lifters falling out
Don’t straight push the piston down, you have to tap it in, otherwise you’ll get what happened on 6 when it could have been sent right into the crank. Which will more than likely damage it.
would just like to add i used both methods stated here with the same tool joel had and broke a ring on piston 1. waiting a few days to get another ring and ill try again.
Problem is if you tap it what can happen, is in between two of your taps if the ring is close to the end of the compressor it might slide and pop out and on the next tap you break it. Proper way IS to push, but there's some truth to the tapping technique, if he tapped it a little to break it free he wouldn't have to push that hard, and it wouldn't have slammed. So I guess tap it to get it close and when it's close to the edge push in one motion to make sure a ring doesn't pop out.
I cannot express how much I appreciate this video. I can only imagine how much extra time it took to set up the camera each time and editing the video. I'm defintitely going to use this video as a reference for my own build. Again, thank you so much! The engine looks sick!
Awesome video. Here is a good suggestion. Next time on the cam caps you leave the bolts loose and threaded. Then smack the tops of the bolts with the hammer. It pushes the piston down which also releases the cap
Also. Install all of your pistons and rings before plastigaging the rod bearings. The rings will hold the pistons in. That way you install all 6 pistons. Flip the block over. And then plastigage 2 at a time. Saves tremendous amounts of time and accidents. The piston shouldn’t fall out of the block lol
Also, for the next time (I hope it won't need any more rebuilds lol) - when installing the pistons, tap the cylinders with a handle, instead of pushing, while occasionally flattening the ring compressor on the block :)
1:35:10 this is the content I want. Jokes apart I loved every minute of this video, loved the length of it! Patiently waiting for the full assembly on the e30 to see you and her rip! Keep up the awesome work!
Thank you for not breaking the vid in parts, makes it easier for an aspiring engine builder to learn, from you of course. We'll done good content. I am using your video as my text/manual to build my E36 325i. Looking forward to watching the next one 👏🙌. Impressive!
Like the content on the main bearings, you actually did a thrust bearing check. I haven't been so deep in a motor yet but I am now. I am learning this portion as I go. And stumbled across thrust bearing check, but no one yet on a non video search said much about it. Good to see the method here.
This is the video that I needed...about to tear into my S52 and loved the in depth look. This video is going in the archive with the m3nace and pawining videos. Amazing work...hope it works out!!!!
i talked to you on some market place feed and you told me a full assembly video was coming soon you didn't disappoint great vid love the content as always
I know I'm hopping on an old video, BUT for any future gaskets made with silicon. Use hondabond, its a little pricey but we've used it with great success on our high HP GTR's and Huracans. That shit will never leak like permatex does. Hondabond is the absolute GOAT for any gasket.
I never watched a 2 hour RU-vid video in my life other than a movie but this was well worth it. Keep up the amazing work hopefully I’ll get to your level one day
I've watched this full build on an account that wasn't signed in now im on a( SIA) I've been searching for this channel for a day an a 1/2 to subscribe
Very nice viceo.. just a tip. When u tightening down the rod bolts, press in som feeler gauge in between crank and rod on both sides. Therefore there will be no twisting or stress on the rod bearings.
This helped me so much joel I’m currently doing a full restoration on my e36 and after a full body restoration im planning on doing the full m52b30 stroker kit on it this gave me so much motivation on some fr shit
32:20 you put the rod stud or bolts in with a piece of hose over them and flip the engine over an push the pistons in with a ring compressor. I use 5/16" silicone hose over some studs I have around to keep it from scoring the walls.
That freaking Kobalt torque ratchet has been your best friend this entire build bro. I enjoyed the entire 2 hours of elbow greasing, finger smashing, and building of your dope ass motor. I’m actually about to rebuild the originally S54 that came out of my M3 and build it for boost. I plan to record the build as well !
Yoo joel you should look into custom trailing arms and relocating the mounting points on the subframe to make it like the 90-92 dtm cars. The suspension design is a lot better
WOW man you put in work on that engine and you explained it step by step more than anyone I seen putting a engine together before that's why I like looking at all your videos you will make a great teacher in automotive. If I can turn back the hands of time on all the work I put in cars back in my days I be doing it like you. And I hope for the people who watch your videos get something out of the because you really put it out there like said before I'm working on my BMW to hook it up😂😂 and please don't let know one take your wheels off you car😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣it was funny when you talked about it but thanks for the laugh 👍👍
I remember when I rebuilt my first BMW engine, and if my memory serves me right, it was the very first V8 engine, better known as the "S62B50", developed by BMW's Motorsport Division, in addition to being the first V8 to be used on BMW's high performance variant (M5) of its mid-size sedan class (5-Series). I can affirm with high probability that my forged crankshaft had no play in its position, staying right where it was supposed to be (post-installation), with absolutely no movement whatsoever, and I state with 100% accuracy, that the legendary V8's cylinder head was NOT dropping pistons and oil rings left and right. Here's a word of advice; since it is apparent that you are new to engine rebuilding, with not much experience, it any at all. If I was you, I would not start committing myself into new projects that involve difficulty such as rebuilding or refreshing an entire engine block, especially BMW engines, which are more complex and elaborate in its blueprint. Get some experience first on less complicated and cheaper engine builds such as a Toyota or even a KIA. Good luck dude!
Lovely man. I have an E34 M50B25. I watched your video the whole one. I was lovely. Neat work. Great patient. R.E.S.P.E.C.T my guy. All the way from NAMIBIA 🇳🇦. Will follow for mo fo sho
Bro I could have used this video 3 years ago when I rebuilt mine, but I definitely didn't go as crazy with mine. Good video I plan on doing a very similar setup in my E36. Can't wait for the first start and drive videos. You motivate the help out of me! Keep this content coming. 💪🏼
Got yourself a new subscriber, and got me interested in the M5x motors. There's a ton around me for cheap way cheaper than JZs and rebuilding this is just slightly more complicated.
Great video, nice rebuild but I was surprised that you didn’t put in a new oil and water pumps. Every build I’ve seen or helped with and a few of my own the to old pumps get pitched and new oem ones or in the case of oil pumps, high performance or deep sump intakes get used. On the couple of blown engines we always drilled out the rivets holding the valve and oil pan baffles out to make sure they’re are no copper flakes trapped underneath. Just tap and bolt down or use nuts and bolts, rivnuts or rivet them back in place. Nice long format video. Looking forward to the first start.
ey, yo! That's great video. 🔥 Also all your videos have been watchable and enjoyed all your vibe energy you keepin up all in those videos. Keep doing what you love and makes you happy! Watched full video from the beginning. I'm happy that you makin this type of car videos.. keep going! Can't wait to see next video :) 🔥
VAC and other vendors make upgraded oil pump shafts with keyed sprockets and a left-hand thread bolt that are much better than the original shaft/sprocket/nut that is either wired or welded on.
you can use half a shell of undersized bearings to get the rods looser like on cylinder 2 3 5 and 6 . those are a little tight . always have my rods looser than my main clearances . your mains are fine a 20 thou but could be tighter
