That saw will run fine, you did a good job and your numbers were good. A 104 ex makes some pretty serious torque with a big bore. I prefer 100 as it gives a bit more on top and with the big bore you can give a bit away in the mid. 20 blow down works good. I might have gone too 18. The intake is a curious one. I too like 80. Technically that is too low for that exhaust height but I bet you like me have not seen any down side and 80 must help with top end pull. Lately I have been building 372 big bores with a CNC machined cylinder head with cooling fins and stainless straight pipe. The pipes did not impress me after I went to a lot of trouble making them and so they sat on the shelf for more than a year. Then the other day while fitting this very nice head I had a bit of an epiphany and ported the cylinder quite well outside the norm to see if it would work with the pipe better. It turns out that it sure as hell did. This thing is like a freaken race saw running on pump gas. Very happy with it. The head has allowed me to use numbers I could not get on a stock cylinder........actually that's not quite true the head has allowed me to build the cylinder with the piston lining up perfectly at BDC and still getting all the numbers I want and a 10.5:1 compression ratio. It required an excel spread sheet to crunch the numbers and get it all to work with a 272 piston etc but it certainly paid off. Like you I spend way too much time in the shed.
Wow I didn’t watch a single commercial through the whole video! That never happens. There’s so much I learned from this video. I mean answers to questions you just can’t even think to ask. Awesome
Great work man. It’s hard to get the actual porting on camera unless you have some kind of elaborate set up, you show what you can, that’s all you can do. 👍. It’s hard to lift they a camera screen 😂. Keep it up tho man your work looks great and very professional, I know you take pride in your work and it shows. Should be a great runner there.
I love your channel! You keep it fun and moving!!! And are extremely real!!!! And when you changed your intro to “include your tree cutting fail…owned it! Didn’t brush it under the rug but actually brought attention to it!!! I’ll bet that your video is going to help save guy’s an accident while cutting down a tree in their yard! Just be reviewing their plans because they realize that mistakes happen to everyone and nobody is exempt! And to show folks that it’s really easy to have something not go as planned. Or when an accident happens stuff gets broken… being a dude of strong character and a real moral fortitude you immediately owned it!!! started studying the video looking for the answers to what happened! What went wrong??? I know You thought about hiding it for just long enough to catch yourself and know that your showing that it can and does happen to everyone who cuts trees down if they do it long enough… that you make the best of it! You’re Sweetheart’s comment’s about the poor little buggy were fantastic… holy smokes! The taillights still work! As you’re dragging them along the ground!!!! A little aluminum rectangle frame out of boxed 2”-3” channel with some 5/4’er deck boards for a little bed and side’s would look totally RAD man!!! Could probably do a little piece of pipe inside of a slightly bigger diameter pipe to make the hinge across the back so that it would still dump? You’ll come up with something cool!!! Might have a little design idea contest for a 7/32 file and get the different heads in the group idea’s in some basic sketches for your new back section? I was thinking about a sheet of expanded metal cut down and framed with 2” angle… like a big headache rack… then you could hang a couple of saw saver’s or homemade scabbards so you could have your saw’s hanging down above your bed area… with hooks and bungees you could hang all kinds of stuff off it? Like the pegboard concept on a shop wall? Then your beds free for wood or whatever you are working on? I freakin love the hey “PPE police” house slippers and ready to rock shot! I smile every time I see a notification in the feed dude!!! Keep up the awesome work!!!
I always port the cylinders now.., they have the cylinder lining wrapped into the exhaust port.,. I’ve had 4 that around 4-6 months of use that corner gets brittle and snaps off banging around and killing the cylinder!!! Want to grind your port window up high enough to remove that wrapped edge from the equation!!!! After that they are awesome!!!
I enjoy watching other people do their work. Thank you for the giving of your time. I am a mechanic of many decades. I understand about porting and reasons for it. In effect, porting is exactly the same as swapping a camshaft of more duration and more lift...yada yada yada. My question is that you mentioned and shown several times in your video of increasing the "volume" and/area of the ports and passages......could you explain what you did for increasing the true flow ""velocity."".....??? Sincerely....Max
Awesome video buddy I like how you explained how your picking your numbers and showing your work!!! Tazman has a 272 popup piston in his is what his builder told me....I did a very similar build on my 372 x-torq to oe big bore pop as your doing I ran it then went back in and windowed the piston like a 272 piston and DAMN did that help I just took a endmill and put windows in the sides of the piston....so some food for thought for gains
Thanks Kevin! I've been thinking about windowing the pistons, but honestly I am a little scared. Haven't done it yet and don't want my first time to be on a customer's saw. But you aren't having issues? How many tanks have you put through it?
Right on Kevin… the 272 piston is pretty good… the MS650 piston is a beautiful windowed piston and it doesn’t require quite as much height… a tad shorter than 272! 😉👍. Check out the meteor ms650 piston the next time you are looking at good 372 52mm build. I’ll tell ya…for my 372 work saw’s I like the $35 dollar Farmertec cylinder from Wagner’s in Pa and a Hyway 52mm popup piston kit… them or hlsproparts.com for $35… you’ll have $70 maybe $80 with the shipping… and let me tell ya. It’s a freaking awesome topend! You can do a little numbers correction and polishing and your rockin’!!! The Hyway piston fits the Farmertec cylinder better than it’s own and it’s 10x better than the ft piston fit!!!! On the 372’s I use the gasket to mark the cases and cylinder base so I can open the lower’s to do the port matching work…
Great video, Must remember when measuring squish band you are measuring clearance not compression. Cylinder dome size determines compression. I have an aftermarket big bore in my ms460 with .038 clearance and 195 psi compression. It will pull your arm off. The chinaman that designed the cylinder did not figure the extra volume from larger bore and left the chamber the same.
So I did my 61 big bore with a 52mm kit. Dual ported the exhaust. Squish without gasket is 23.5. Exhaust opens 101.5 ATDC blow down 21degrees. Intake opens at 109 ABDC. Used Caber Ring before first start compression was 115. Running 40:1 and herrings fat. Saws very torquey. Been to cold to do any more test cuts -4 here. Meteor kit was spot on around the squish band measured all four edges. Also piston starting weight was 76.5. I took 1.5 grams off of it. Chamfered every edge.
The numbers doesn’t matter as much as the quality of the build. 156/156 would run great without machine work. 102/123/81 makes great torque on them. Really depends on the saw. But as Aaron said 372s are very forgiving.
Cajun! You're back man! Glad to have you. You took a looong break man. That's neat to know about the k cylinders. Helps explain the ridiculous blowdown numbers. I couldn't help thinking that I was messing up!
@@novicelumberjack I wouldn’t say back lol. I’m just here. Still building saws but the chainsaw community has too much drama for me. I’m just here to help and support 🤘🏽
By the time you cut the squish band 1mm and cut the base to get the squish set to .6mm you will be about 80 deg. I have run saws as low as 85 deg intake. More intake absolutely helps with top end at the expense of the bottom end.
Excellent!!!! The one I just did was very similar but I was a touch different- I think I went to 101 on the exhaust as I missed it a hair and 122 on the transfers but it was fine for the use which is a 20" bar and more RPM. I think one part worth noting is for anyone porting (as you're helping others learn) is to remember to clean up or even chamfer your ports- and especially around the material removed from the cylinder skirt- as as to keep smooth surfaces for the piston and rings. So many times I have seen someone attempt porting to skip that step and instantly ruin it. Now, I'll be curious to see if you port a Titanikel what you think. We'll chat- they have some unique challenges.
On those Titanikel 52mm popup topend’s… you have to grind the cylinder lining that they wrap into the exhaust port window … intake too… after they run a little that lining gets brittle from the heat cycles and it’s edge will flake off… that super hard hunk bangs around and kills the cylinder!!! I had several do it and kill the new topend’s.,. 372 and 353/350… 45 and 52!! 2 each!!! So I’ll never install one that I don’t port to raise that exhaust roof to get rid of that lining material that’s wrapped into the exhaust port window!!! Man was I hot… Hyway didn’t even say sorry dude…nada response! LMFFAO!!!
@@DaveyBlue32 I won't use Hyway anymore for exactly that reason. Metor use to be awesome but I'm pretty sure they are just a rebox Hyway these days. I've had both he Meteor and Hyway 372 top end kits in my hand they were Identical. Casting marks the bloody awful cut they put at the to of the combustion chamber. So for me now it's OEM only.
Hey, thanks for the interesting video, what do you think about Hyway cylinder? Just finish rebuild mystihl 029 with hyway cyl kit, is it reliable, what do you guys think?
hey body need some help i was looking for a spare cylinder for my craftsman 3.3/ poulan 3300 i know they are hard to find but i was wondering are there any husky cylinders with the same stroke and bolt spacing that i could buy a cylinder kit and bold on? i dont know but i just wanted something just in case cuz i dont wanna have to put down that saw for months on end because i cant find a cylider anyway just wanted you help on that thanks for the videos as always love em and this vid was super helpful with the porting info thanks
No direct replacements. The best option is to buy another saw for backup parts. Have you seen Dubbs Saw Shop? He does a lot of these Poulans too. I think you'd like his channel as well. He also might be able to handle your recoil question. I'm STACKED with projects that I'm trying to get to, not gonna be able to make a video about the recoil assembly anytime soon.
Kevin Smith… he’s the “Chainsaw Builder Group” founder… he’s got a fantastic collection of used Poulan parts and he’s happy to help you with your parts if he has them in his stocks… I’m pretty sure he’s got you covered…. 👍😁. Tell him Pa Dave sent ya….
@@novicelumberjack I run short bars and it's mainly a firewood saw , I didn't do much porting to the cylinder I have that's how it came , I did the lower transfers , and didn't touch the exhaust , I took about 0.020 off the piston skirt , those cylinders are different
I yank those upper transfer’s about 1/2” towards the exhaust port! I do that dropped staggering to to kick the exhaust… but I remove everything but a thin bridge because I get rid of the quad port design and take it back to two big awesome feeding wide open ports or a duel port… that crap in the middle and the division is just restriction in my thinking! When guy’s really want zip they are finger porting… add little open ports! Then I do the WD40 and scotchbrite twice in your exhaust port window after the 200 grit… that 120-60-220 isn’t needed… unless you were using 60 to try and grind shape… really slowly??? I really hope that you are grabbing a sheet of 1000 grit paper and rolling over the top and bottom edges of all your piston’s and those little sharp claws on the bottom need hit with like 60 to roll them over and down… they will stress crack off… and you want a rolled edge on your piston so it’s snow skiing over the oil molecules and the oil slick that’s on the cylinder walls and it’s not a flat sharp edge scraping or squeegeeing the oil slick off the walls…. If you want to try another design… grind the material out from between those upper transfer’s… then reach down in and only leave a little thin 1/2 long support bridge up top underneath the middle area that you removed… it’s now a big duel port not a quad port… 1” pipe out the muffler…. Use the base gasket as a template so you can mark the cylinder and your case’s so you can grind your back corners on your cylinder to match up better… the right side transfer with the little step opens first I do my steps right rear and left forward… to start the swirl 😉👍😂😳🤔. When you open up your transfers like this you really increase your torque gain… it’s still going to spin like a banshee 13,500… I don’t let my stuff free spin like that… I tune at 11,800/12k right rich… when you get into the cut it’ll kick in when you twist your wrist into a long bar and clean up and sing through… I’m just at four stroking… or a tad fatter than that… but I run 32:1 for a year rich… then I’ll move them to the 40:1 pile and right on their four stroking tune… that other guy might have more experience… but with that hair brother you just look better doing it!!! Ahahaaa hahaaa!!! LMFFAO!!!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣😜😜😜. Go from 200 and WD40 both sides the window and the strip and zip it around… then do it again!!! Bingo, bango … boogie woogie all night long,,,,, a couple sessions with the wd and pad… it’s really freaking neat!!! Your exhaust port’s will be as pretty as you are!!!! Ahahaaa!!! 😉👍
This is all really good stuff! I'm glad I'm doing this the way I am. Taking my time with it and listening to y'alls feedback, and then going back in for some more. I'm definitely gonna go back in and grind ond it some more!
@@novicelumberjack after watching a couple videos on the Hyway cylinder… those upper transfer’s are bigger than normal… I think that’s why if you watch dyno Joe’s version he’s really let down by the results that he gets with the “normal” 372 intake and transfer time… if you look at Arron’s… would be fantastic if we could see the actual dyno info to compare actual apples to apples but he’s really feeding those transfers…like excessively and it really responds and freaking rip’s…. I’m thinking that with that amount of actual cubic centimeters of volume that it’s needing more fuel to get through the transfers… be interesting to see if a 390-395 carburetor could drop enough fuel to retard it’s function? I was using oiled sand and measuring the intake and exhaust port volume’s and the transfers volume’s as I look for the balance of those… I look at it like 14,000 little breaths… even equals function… if one of those three is different then it’s going to retard the function as it’s not an even transition between function’s… I need to lay it out on a port mapping sheet so I can physically see each function and the dead space between each of them…. It’s a very neat way to see the engine’s process and those relationships between what it’s doing… 👍😉. Yeah man 2strokes rock!!! The echo 8000 needs a run with the 372 big bore pipe to see if it’s totally out of wack for it!!! That’s one engine that really needs a resonator pipe! LMFFAO! Love your channel Dude!!!! The Safety First in your House Slippers makes me bust out laughing every freaking time I watch a freaking video !!! Awesome job buddy thanks a lot for the fun side of saw’s!! And some laughs and having fun with it!!! This is super fun stuff we can’t get to dang serious all the time… or it’s just work!!! Not a darn good time!!! 😁👍. Hey… those little points on the bottom of that piston have a super high chance of braking off over time!!! It’s highly recommended that they get rounded over and worked in as a smooth transition… I’m under the impression that you can actually transfer your mark to your other side too. And if you take off your lower piston and make that a nice gentle contour… you don’t Freeport and you have your right timing correction and your piston is much lighter and therefore it’s a good power jump as you have reduced your parasitic drag and your throttle response is more snappy! 👍😁. I make the bottom of mine resemble an egg shape if he was laying on his side… drunken egg piston’s! I ramble! I was looking at how the volume at the bottom intake is bigger then the fuel charge will actually be increased in speed as it’s restricted… volume is important but so is volocity!!! That’s why all tunnels should look like a tube with parallel walls so there’s not cavitation… deflection
How much would you charge me if I send you the same hyway big bore kit for the Husqvarna 372 xp I live in western NC 28734 and I to would like to run a 32 sometimes a 36 inch bar and I cut hickory and oak walnut but anyway if you could give me a price I can send you the part from wolf creek saw shop thank you very much
Email me at Boedychainsaws@gmail.com I work with TristarSupplyLLC and can get the cylinder for you and port it up. I would not recommend the big bore kit though. I'd recommend stock bore regular Hyway kit. Not Titanickle. But if you want the big bore, I can do that. But their transfer port timing isn't as good as the standard bore cylinders. You can get better power from the standard cylinder.
372's imo are the most forgiving saws to port.. I've put several different number combinations in them and they are always solid runners..I need one of those digital degree things😂🤙🏻🪓😎
