Just finished. My burner plate was a slightly different design (individual burner plate sections for each burner) but the interconnecting gas porting seam was still the same. Pulled it apart, cleaned them out and viola, back in business. Thanks again for you video highlighting the exact problem and solution.
I am very thankful for your video. Not only was it informative and to the point, but that you used specific wording for the title that makes it searchable. Others try to use catchy, or flashy titles that only serve to serve as eye candy for their subscribers and does NOTHING for non-subscribers. I not only thank you but I did the thumbs up and subscribed !
Mr. Flannel Guy, you just got a new subscriber, me. Thanks a million. I did exactly as you instructed. I removed the screws with a small socket wrench for the tight fit, cleaned it with a wire brush, knocked off on the garage floor to dislodge the loose debris, blew it out with some air from my lungs and reinstalled. My right and middle burners were ignited but my left was not and this caused it to turn off after just a few seconds. Now all three burners are firing. My downstairs is warm again. Thanks again.
Great, clear and concise video. You saved me some $$. After I cleaned the channel (which did not look dirty), I took a soft steal wool and cleaned the flame sensor. I also used some canned air to clear everything. Everything works great now thanks to you! thank you!
Thank you! Couldn't get the burner out and had to fashion a cleaning device out of a wire coat hanger to reach back and drag across the edge. It worked! Couldn't have done it without you.
Thank you so much for sharing symptoms and cure and explaining how to clean the crud from the edge of the burner plate crossover grooves to allow the the other flames to ignite. I used a soft bronze wire brush. I pried open the grooves a little with a flat head screwdriver - maybe a bad idea -and better to replace the plate and get a clean new one - it is just a $25 part ? I pried them open a little - seemed to be ok. Also -- on my furnace there is brittle Silicon carbide heated igniter ( rather than your spark igniter) right in front of the plate. Best to REMOVE that first before trying to remove the plate ( but do not touch the black ceramic part with finger grease or will later crack from hotspot). I didn't do this - and bumped and smashed the ceramic while removing the burner plate. $20 heated igniter part but 3 day wait over a weekend in the freezing cold. Got a replacement one - installed it AFTER putting the burner plate back first - and the cleaned plate worked first time on all 5 flames - previously just 2 and then failed and shut down. 23year old Rheem Criterion 2 furnace. Previously replaced the controller board after 20 yrs ($130), then blower motor ($200) after 21 yrs. HVAC people refused to fix it both times - first claimed they could not get the parts - and then when I gave them the part numbers - they said it was policy never to fix 20yr or older systems - that they would "be liable" when something else went ... such nonsense ... they said had to get a new system - $10K+ and should replace the AC at the same time too ! Likely would have said the same this time too. I was worried it might be the gas valve ($160) with possible low pressure and would need to buy a manometer to diagnose that and to set up the new gas valve safely - but cleaning out the crud fixed it straight away. Can still get all the parts for these systems so in theory could keep them going for many more years. Anyway - thanks again.
Thank you so much. I thought it was the valve. Spent $120 and still had the same issue. Used a $3 hook pick I have in the garage and fixed the issue in 5 minutes without even removing the manifold 🤦🏽♂️
Thank you when my furnace would light only two burners would light and when the other to lit it lit the gas from the two unlit with a loud bang .my burners are of a different design and only took compressed are to clear the dust out .this video saved me a service call
Hi Mr. Flannel Guy. Hey man, thank you very much for this video. I was able to figure out and fix the issue I was having with my old furnace. Such a valuable information, it saved me a few bucks. Really appreciated
Nice video. More accustomed to seeing individual in shot burners. Those must be removed one at a time and cleaned. I always clean my burners at the start of the heating season along with flame sensor rod. No issues if you follow simple diy steps like these. Thanks.
Thank you flannel guy. You just save me hundreds. I cleaned with a simple wire brush and toothbrush. Took me a bit to get the screws out but is worked like a charm. $$$
Thanks from Australia! I tried your cleaning tip but had to create a tool to do the cleaning as I would have had to do some considerable dismantling to do the job. The tool was a narrow piece of copper sheet with the end bent to almost flat against itself. Scraped it up and down the flame path. Unfortunately in my case that wasn't the problem, it turned out to be a partially blocked jet. Jiggling a bit of wire up the jets solved the problem. Saved the wire and the 'flame path' cleaner inside the unit for future use. Thank you, I learned something and that lead me to the solution.
Great video. I cleaned everything. And I'm definitely getting every burner to light. I cleaned the flame sensor. But I'm still not getting blower to turn on. I'm lost now
It cost me 500 dollars to find out the furnace guy didn`t know anything . After he changed the gas valve and ignitor I started having trouble again and since I didn`t have any money left I tried starting it with a lighter and the nossel pointing at the ingnitor was plugged.and that was 500 dollars wasted. . Lesson learned. you tube people know better and are a lot cheaper.
Very helpful, but I'd like to add something else, I took it out and it was clean, then using an screwdriver I opened the gap between the burners and it started working good, thanks the video
This is why you should service your furnace before every heating season starts. The service addresses the issue by cleaning it thoroughly. The furnace may look clean but there could be a clog from combustion debris or corrosion.
What if none are firing? Furnace is 2 years old and doesn’t look like it’s dirty or anything. I don’t think it’s the burners but maybe like the igniter ? I have a small black on/off switch on top of the burners. Should I power cycle that maybe?
Wondering if I might pick your brain a bit. We've got a propane furnace here and it seems to function well besides the fact that I know I need to seal ductwork. Nearly every time it does it's start up sequence, there's a metallic clunk from the unit. I haven't actually checked into it much but from seeing this video I'm mildly under the impression that my burners may need to be cleaned, that I may be missing a small bracket, or that I have a loose screw somewhere. We don't have any history of maintenance for this unit, just that it is a replacement unit that was installed within the last 5 years. We thought it was delayed ignition at first but it isn't an explosion sound and it isn't violent. Just a mild little clunk.
@@ciarano.1512 That's what the tech said. Not specifically a valve but part of the physical mechanism that works with it. It's meant to be a normal port of operation.
So...is there supposed to be cotton looking stuff inside the big holes the flames go into?.... Mine has three burner holes and two have aome sort of cotton looking stuff in the back of them...seems like its a hazard...currently my heater just does a "click" and then nothing when i turn it on...
I have a similar furnace. Do you ever clean out the tubes the flame is shooting into? Mine have a grayish buildup inside and I was thinking about running a circular brush down them while holding a vacuum at the opening. It seems like this buildup would hinder the ability of the flames to heat the tubes efficiently.
good video mate, good video... mine is American Standard gas boiler, from the 70's, yesterday I noticed that pilot stays on, but boilers under 70 degree dont burn... any idea? thanks
My furnace has been igniting the first burner and failing to start the other two. However, it does intermittently succeed. I've cleaned the flame sensor, the burners and cleared out any debris in the burner box. I took the burners out and blew out the fuel path between them. They all appeared clean to start with. The furnace is only two years old. Actually, I was able to pass some card stock through the fuel path. There are three individual burners, not one piece. I wondered about exhaust. The exhaust pipe (PVC) is the Diversitech CVENT. So I don't know how to see inside the exterior pipe. The centre pipe looked clear, but I could see water at the very bottom. Is that normal? A 'P' trap maybe? There is nothing covering the centre pipe. Should there be? After all the cleaning and reassembly now the furnace is short cycling. Perhaps just replacing the high limit switch and flame sensor is the next step. However, the limit switch continuity test passes. With that in mind my furnace is using propane so are there different switches and sensors that I should replace them with? Thanks so much for your hard work in posting these videos.
@@arizonalover6771 My flame box is a closed one. I took out all the screws and left the top middle one in so the door was not completely sealed. It works fine now. Weird but I'm warm. LOL
That means get a licensed heating contractor in. Gas furnace DIY repairs and tinkering is dangerous. You are dealing with natural gas and you could cause a catastrophic failure and fire or explosion.
My furnace has this problem. I have taken the burner plate out and it is clean as a whistle. Spotless. The issue is intermittent. Maybe one time out of ten only one or two burners light and then the gas stops. Help!
@@flannelguydiy6458 yeah i know the power safety stuff. :) our pro hvac guy came and cleaned up the furnace. The other furnace is still broken. Thanks for the reply
Yes. The yellow is dust burning off. If the entire flame is yellow it is referred to as a luminous flame. This is caused by a lack of primary air mixing with the gas. This is not good and will eventually lead to carbonization of the heat exchanger. A good burner flame is a blue or a bunsen flame. While observing your flame rap on a burner lightly and you should see the specks of dust turning your flame briefly yellow.
Hey Flannel Guy, my oil furnace has a small boom or blow back at the end of the heat cycle and I can't find any info on it. Most blow back are at the beginning of the heat......anyone out there who has had this issue and or can help I would appreciate it! THANKS.
@@daytonwoodford4386 I heard about it after the fact they already bought the new one. The got a Chinese made piece of crap when there USA made one needed minor repair.
@@markbrandon7359 💩hb...I hate stories like this..retired navy down in Baja doing handyman work..that guy will get his..I’m a lot of bad things-NEVER CHEATING anyone -pilot lite burning-burners won’t ignite -on to the next step =that’s for the shout-out..stay clean and safe and don’t get sneeeeeeezed on 💉💉💉gscott
I wish you lived by us..We need a Good Honest guy to look at our 40 Year old Airco Furnace.. We don't want to replace it..They don't make the New ones like this Airco
Mr TEC. I replaced ,the ignating element last year, I clean my burners every year on my Lennox G24M-75A-10. MY FLAME SENSOR NEEDED CLEANING. SO CLEANED IT,AND NOW THE IGNICION TAKES PLACE THE BURNERS KICK IN.(A LITTLE LONGER 10/15 SECONDS BUT THEN IT JUST AHOTS OFF,I BLWE INTO THE BLOWER HOSE IT IS"CLEAN.I HEARD THERE IS THIS RESET BOTTON ,WHEREIS IT AND WHAT IS THE PROCEDURE.?