My flame sensor was dirty I cleaned it and then left bottom panel open. (Had to rush out couldn't put back on) came home and found furnace not turn on. Scared I messed something up! This video taught my the cutoff switch and everything all good again! Saved myself 200 dollars for repairman
Thank you! My thermostat R and W wires were so frayed when i touched it they broke off the copper! i replaced the wires but it still didn't didn't turn on.. until the door holding the cutoff switch was on. It worked after! but i already paid HVAC guy 175 after the first visit. The thermostat was also not flush with wall, but the wires at that point were about to go, then it finally went. Great video!
Woke up to 59 degrees after wifey changed the filter yesterday. Checked everything or thought I did. Came to this video. Re-checked the power by pushing the plug in more. That was it. Check power? Yes.
Much much Thanks to you!! Thought we had go through another cold night without heat and I found your video and turned out to be a simple fix. Thanks again!!
I had a batteries issue. Power went off last night and fir some reason, batteries died on its own. Once replaced, it worked again. Very helpful tips. Thanks.
Thanks for the help. The condensor pump drain line was frozen and pump was full of water and constantly on. We had the AC unit replaced this past summer they changed the line to drain directly outside instead of to the sump pump, the fridgit weather froze the line.
Thank you for this video. omg I was pretty freaked when my furnace would even turn on at all and it was just something to do with the thermostat not connecting properly to the system due to the battery power waning (despite that the thermostat was actually on and functional)
Yes, it does. Unburdened by any profound knowledge, the clicking I heard did seem to me that it could be a piezoelectric spark generator attempting to light up the furnace and failing to do so. But it also could have been something like a solenoid failing to engage, or something completely different, so I came here to look for real experts. God Bless RU-vid . . . sometimes 🙂
Thanks for the update. If you have a spark ignition, then your furnace likely has a thermocouple or thermopile that will check if there is a flame. A failed thermocouple will prevent the system from working properly so the system will try to re-ignite the furnace, but is likely failing each time. If there is no flame and no ignition then it's possible that there is no gas being released when it's needed.
I have an 18-year old Lennox G40UH furnace with a White-Rodgers / Lennox Surelight 56L8401 control board. On rare occasions the control board ignores the thermostat's call for heat. Specifically, I measure 28VAC across the W and C terminals on the control board, but the control board diagnostic LEDs indicate "normal standby operation". I've left the furnace in this state for up to a couple of hours without any recognition of the thermostat's call for heat. If I then power off the furnace for 30 seconds or so and turn it back on, the control board diagnostic LEDs immediately indicate "normal operation with call for heat", and the furnace goes through its normal ignition sequence. I removed, cleaned, and reattached the thermostat wire leads, but the problem recurs. I now think I need to replace the control board, but could there be any other (hopefully less expensive) reason for this problem? Thanks!
Thank you for watching. What you're describing is likely a faulty control board. If one of the sensors was faulty you could have the startup sequence happen and shut down part way, you would get other codes such as low pressure or no flame detected etc in those cases. An intermittent issue like that could be a faulty capacitor on the board itself but these sorts of things are difficult to really narrow down.
@@AmreSupply I appreciate your reply, thanks. That's the reply I was expecting but not what I was hoping for, in view of the cost of a new control board!
I have this same furnace that you are showing. There is nothing wrong with it really, except... I have gone by our local electrical codes and hooked up a plug into the main line so that I can use a backup powerbank or generator in case the power goes out. Boy is this frustrating. I have checked all the wires everywhere and I have proper grounds all the way into the furnace, checked so many times. I even plugged my GB circuit tester into my power bank and I have 3 lights come on indicating correct wiring coming out of the powerbank. There is exactly 110VAC coming out. It powers everything else up, including the fridge and microwave and vacuum etc. I turned off the powerbank and checked the open ground to see if I had it, I put the wire tester across the neutral and the ground and got no noise from the tester indicating when it is turned off it shows open ground. However when I turn it on, the plug in tester reads correct, not open ground. Is this my problem or is the furnace a type that cannot be powered up by a alternate source? It is 9 years old and a Coleman like you showed, Thanks,
Hi Allen, thanks for watching. It can definitely be frustrating to narrow down the problem in this case especially since a refrigerator and microwave run on the outlet. Using a multimeter, testing between the hot and neutral should show a reading between 110 and 120v. Testing between the hot and the ground should also show 120v. Testing between the neutral and the ground wire should show no voltage. This is briefly shown in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kH2Rbh_m6rM.html If those readings are good, then its best to check all the connections on the outlet to make sure they are in the right spot and are secure and not touching the housing or anything else. One other question, does the furnace start at all? Or do you get no lights, no inducer or anything?
@@AmreSupply Hi, the furnace runs fine when plugged into the house. It does not start at all when plugged into the Bluetti EB240 which is a 110VAC back up.
@@Allen-im7nv It is likely not enough power for the furnace. Typical blower motors run somewhere in the neighborhood of 500 watts and have a startup load of around 2000 watts which would exceed the current rating on the Bluetti. For a backup a 2000 Watt gas generator would be best for what you're looking at but some people have successfully used backup batteries. It might be good to do some more searching on some specific test cases of other people doing this install.
Thanks for watching? What type of furnace do you have? Does it have a inducer blower that pulls air into the burner? Or is it a pilot or even an intermittent pilot furnace?
Hi Benny thank you for watching. If you have a furnace with pilot light, then a faulty thermocouple can prevent the furnace from working properly. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3EKbSiAJyiI.html An automatic pilot light will be triggered by a spark ignitor. Check the wires to make sure that the spark ignitor is connected and is properly grounded as that is needed to make a spark.
When I turned on my furnace on last night, for the first time since last Fall, it began to heat the house, then quit. When I went to check the thermostat, I could hear a series of clicks through the air return grate. I hear one click, then a pause, then two clicks in rapid succession, then a pause, then it repeats. Same thing after turning it off then back on. Same thing after it being off overnight. Does that symptom indicate any particular source of the failure??? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Our older Rheem gas furnace won’t fire up. During the Summer with the Central Air on I noticed the Pilot light was out. Being it was July I thought no big deal when I go to change the filter again and vacuum any dust away in the furnace I will relight the Pilot light. I did that yesterday afternoon and it stayed lit and continues lit 🔥 today. With the house temperature at 62 I set our round Honeywell manual Thermostat to 68 but the furnace doesn’t fire up. Fan is set to auto and it is in the heat position. Can you give me any ideas as to what the problem may be? I already checked the breaker in our electrical box and it wasn’t tripped. The Model number of our Rheem gas furnace is RGDA-125A-GR.
Replying to my own question about a hour or so later. I found that the Switch at the bottom door that closes off the Blower Motor Area at the bottom of the heater switch must be going bad. I remember a few years ago when my heater stopped working being I had removed that door for cleaning and I didn't place the door quite right over the switch it seemed. So I did it again until the furnaced turned on. Never had another problem with it but today I thought why not check it and with the Thermostat calling for heat on the first floor and me down in the basement in front of the furnace I took the door off and pressed the switch in by hand and the furnace still didn't start but when I put the bottom door back on it fired and right away shut down. If I pushed the door all the way down it shuts down. About a 1/4-1/2" up and the Furnace is working. I feel the switch must be going bad so I am going to look for a new switch for my old Rheem Furnace.
Thanks for watching. Yes those door switches will completely cut power to the furnace, so a faulty switch can be quite problematic. If you are curious you can test the switch for continuity to see how well its working when pressed closed. Its possible that the contacts inside the switch are not making a good connection.
@@AmreSupply Thanks for the advice. I will do a continuity test once I get a new switch. Based on what I saw last night that switch is probably worn out. Its got to now be closed just right to make contact. It’s the original on my 35 year old Rheem Hot Air Furnace.
Thanks for watching. Yes the condensate pump might have a high level switch wired directly to the furnace. This video explains in more detail: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dcLhyLu0-y8.html
So my Infinity 80 which has only been installed For a few years will not turn off. I can hear the the fan running non stop at the unit inside the house. The flames from the gas turn on and off as needed for heat but this fan all day and night Is strange? Any ideas or suggestions??
Hi John, thank you for watching. This may seem trivial but first check your thermostat settings. Its possible that your fan is set to "ON" which means it will run 100% of the time even when heating is not needed. Setting it to "auto" means the fan will only blow air when the furnace is heating. If that doesn't help then it could be an issue with your thermostat or the control board on the furnace.
@@AmreSupply Did a deep dive so to speak in the digital thermostat. Each day has to be programmed and I somehow stumbled on a new screen where as you mentioned the fan could be turned off. Thank you for getting back with me.
would it be common that the fan would run if u turned it on would that still indicate power . i'm not seeing any lights on were the window is located . i did unistall old thermostat and replaced it with a new one .need ed a larger screen so it was not a waste money on my end .
Hi Melain, thank you for watching. Most furnaces have an indicator light, and during normal operation there's usually a consistent flash every few seconds. If the blower fan is running then that's an indicator that it has power and as long as the furnace or AC seems to be doing what its supposed to, then you should be good even without an indicator light. Some furnaces might only give flashing lights for errors. Look on the blower cover door or your furnace manual there is likely a chart that will explain what lights you should expect for your model.
My frigidaire furnace won't start! Whenever I turn it on the blower starts and I get a blinking green light with a solid red. It says pressure switch open fault. Sometimes I can get solid lights with the ignitor to glow and eventually get flame for one second then shuts off and starts blinking again. Does the pressure switch need replaced?? I've blown in the lines to try to reset it as well
Thank you for watching. That code can be caused by several different things.: Restricted intake air vent Restricted combustion air vent Leaks around assemblies Clogged condensate drainage A faulty pressure switch Make sure that the vent cap on the outside of your home is clear first before replacing anything. A clogged cap or vent will trip the pressure switch causing your furnace to shut off.
@@AmreSupply vent cap on the outside is completely clear and I have no leaks, also there is no water inside the condensate pump. Where would the combustion air vent be?
@@teets10 The intake to the furnace is on the side of the unit and often relies on a good air supply to the room that the furnace is in. So make sure that there isn't anything blocking air from entering the room. There is usually some water in the condensate pump. If your condensate pump is bone dry, then its possible that there is a clog in the condensate drain pan before it exits the furnace.
Thanks for watching. Its possible that the blower motor is not wired correctly and often replacement motors might not have the same colored wires. Check the wiring diagram on the motor reading each wire and color as well as the furnace manual.
I have a problem where the igniter glows, i hear the click from the switch, but it doesn't ignite. After 3 tries it goes into lockout mode. For some reason this seems to occur on the very cold (-15C or lower) days. No issues any other time. Gas works fine to the fireplace and cooktop. Any thoughts? Could the incoming gas being too cold cause this?
Hi John, thank you for watching. For combustion to happen we need 3 things, oxygen, gas, and a spark or something to ignite the gas with. In your case you've verified that you have gas to your home, but it sounds like the gas isn't reaching the burners. Try cleaning the burners of any soot or carbon buildup. You can see how to do this in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1giPLrObYb4.html Alternatively you could also have low gas pressure which might be exacerbated in gold weather. For gas related issues its best to call a HVAC technician.
My furnace isn’t showing any error codes it will run a few cycles then nothing still no codes I replaced the thermostat last year and that didn’t work anyone have any ideas on what it could be?
Hi Coty, how far into the startup sequence does it get? You might find this video helpful as it troubleshoots a furnace that cycles on and off: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b0sAGt-1niU.html
Thanks for watching. If you followed the steps in the video and your furnace still won't start and you don't have the LED indicator light on the control board, then it could be an issue with the power or a faulty control board. In this case it might be good to get it inspected by a HVAC technician.
Thanks for watching. This video is a bit shorter than our other troubleshooting videos as this deals with just the incoming power. We have a video outlining how a furnace works: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tVLtJwix-_8.html as well as common problems here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qRmNrmjKEyk.html
Thanks for watching. If you're getting a lockout it would be best to reset the furnace and let it begin the startup sequence. From there observe what turns on and when the furnace stops running. It will short cycle and will likely try to run again a few times before another lockout. This video can help you understand which parts are associated with which step of the operation: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b0sAGt-1niU.html
Hi Sergio, if you have an older furnace that uses a standing pilot light then you'll have to relight it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3IESh12AQw4.html If the pilot doesn't stay lit then it could be a faulty thermocouple: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3EKbSiAJyiI.html Hope this helps!
