Hey Ernest great videos today! I have been loving the carbon stiffeners I added. I will say that you need to really clamp the barrel set screw down and even then it will shift after a few hundred shots. A small divot or indention right where the set screw hits the brass port beneath makes a huge difference in shift. Be careful not to go deep as the wall is limited thickness. I noticed after about 500 rounds the barrel had shifted about 1/16 and evaluated the problem. I tried re tightening with more torque but the problem persisted. The repeated shock slowly moves the barrel towards the tension. I drilled a 1/8 inch hole/divet just the bevel of the tip deep and the barrel creep was eliminated. I have about two more tins of 30 cal through it now and it seems to be holding. I can keep you updated on results if you like.
Thank you Ernest!! Got mine in the mail today!!!!!! Super simple to install and what a difference this makes on the 700mm...Thanks again for the quick shipment!!!!!!
Also the thick walls of the carbon tube can be machined to hold a o ring for compression against the silencer and crushing the o ring provides a consistent tension. I did this on the 35 cal and it is amazing 😉
I have not drilled the 35 barrel yet just added a o ring for compression. It seems to help with barrel creep but I only have about 300 rounds through it so far. A few more tins and I will let you know if I was successful. The 35 cal moves the most out of all the barrels tried. You would think it would only push the barrel in towards the stop but the field trials say otherwise. I guess all that resistance in the barrel adds up. I will probably wind up drilling the divot but we will see. The 35 cal is already thin so I am trying to avoid drilling what do you think?
As I watched this, I was thinking that a "locking nut"could be made (offered by Ernest with the kit) that accepts ((or not threaded on the end for sale in your country because of the laws, but "cleans up" the end of he barrel so no threads are showing)) the 1/2"-20 threaded components.
Would be sweet if you made a jam nut / air stripper or shroud adapter. So you can take it apart with out leaving part of your suppresser on the gun. Like the one they make for the Marauder custom builds🤔😉🤫👍✌️👌
If you don’t use a torque wrench nothing is proper - the ends of the CF are polish so the torque is consistent. You just have to feel to know what I’m talking about. The owner will Determine the proper torque in how stiff he wants the barrel to be
Ernest Rowe I get it. Internal suspension bridges use the same principles. There are bushings that when compressed, will give you consistent tension on the barrel. The way you have it now, it have to be torqued with a torque wrench to have consistent tension. Every time you would take off the sleeve and reinstall it, it would require a new harmonic tune. That is unless you use a bushing to make the tension consistent.
Corey Moyers been using this for a few weeks and taking off the sleeve and re installing changes nothing about the tuning. Mine doesn’t even shift impact point more than a half inch.
I just realized when I remove the shroud it doesn't look like my barrel tensioner is 1/2 20 it a finer thread with to holes drilled in it to remove the linner on my .35cal
Not enough interest, have CF spacer between shroud and barrel mount to add tension -- really makes a difference barrel no longer vibrant up and down and no barrel droop with the Emperor
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