Hi Billy, i have 2 question for you, i want only change the oil seal and dust cover, i need to dissembling all like in the video? And why you check the oil level like that? I mean, why dont only put the 435 mililiters of fork oil like the manual indicates? Thanks
Hey there. I would imagine that if you were going through the trouble of changing the oil seal, you'd have to certainly drain the oil. At that point you're basically down to the core anyways so go ahead and replace the bushings as the Teflon wears off after time. As for the oil level it's simple. In order to have the exact about of fluid in each fork leg, it's so much easier to over fill, remove the trapped air, and then remove the excess oil. This way you know for sure that each side has the exact amount. Sometimes some oil stays behind in the valve system and damper rod which would give you the wrong amount of fluid if you were just to add the 435 mililiters and leave it as is.
If you are meaning to refill the fork tube to proper height with the fork oil, I used a Liquivac System. liquivac.com They work great for sucking out oil and other liquids.
Hey Billy thanks for the video it was really helpful to learn how to rebuild the forks. I was wondering if you could point me in the direction of where I can find all the parts required to perform this rebuild. Thanks in advance.
In the first video you said you need a collar. I never saw you take anything off that you called a collar but by the beginning of the this video you can see what you called a collar is no longer next to your new parts. What is that and where does it go?
Z Green Sorry, the flat collar goes on after the Teflon bushing. Then you install the oil seal on top of that. Once you do your initial break down you'll see what it is. Nothing more than a flat washer really. I called it a collar.
Unfortunately I never made a video, but this thread on the fz10a forum I made should help out a little bit. All you do is take the cover off, scrape off the old gasket, take the clutch plates out and put the new ones in. Make sure each clutch plate is good and flat and you soak them in oil overnight before putting them in. Don't try to hook the clutch back to the cover before you have the new plates and springs in because you'll freak yourself out when the hook doesn't want to stay in the position it should to attach back to the cover. It won't stay because the plates you have on the bike are garbage and you haven't replaced them yet. ALSO! Make sure to get a measuring caliper to make sure that each of your new clutch plates are the right size (measure in several places from the actual pads on the friction plates) and that when everything is together that you're within spec. One more thing. Be sure to have a torque wrench that reads in inch lbs. You can borrow one from advanced auto parts or something basically for free (you pay for the tool, and they let you bring it back within 30 days for a full refund including the tax. Basically your just guaranteeing that you'll bring it back) Hopefully this helps, you can hmu if you want any other help. Here's a link to the thread: www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128800&page=4
Hey Billy. I did my seals and it seemed to go without a hitch. The thing is on my test ride it is so stiff. It's not compliant at all. I've been wheelieing this bike for months and landing was smooth as silk. It's hitting so hard it's tank slapping. Any ideas? One thing. I had the upper tube extended when I added fluid then removed fluid. Too much fluid? Should I have set fluid level with upper tube down?
Balance Point 71 Yes, you must have the tube down all the way before measuring the fluid. Also back out your preload a couple of rings to start off with. Then you apply preload as you need it. I set mine back to stock settings and then set my Sag once the forks were back on the bike. You'll need an extra hand to set the sag. It sounds like you have your preload way too stiff.
Billy Ramirez . Thanks man. I just added to much oil. I'll take it back down tomorrow and reset the fluid level. I watched the video again and could see you topped it off with the tube down. No biggie.My mistake. Great tutorial. By the way. I tried cracking bottom bolts and it sounded. Did the socket taped to pipe trick and it worked like magic. I appreciate your help. Check out my Wheelie videos. I'll give you a shout out on my next one. Ride Safe!
Balance Point 71 My pleasure bud. I'm glad it helped you out. In the long run you save so much money doing it yourself and you get more satisfaction knowing you did it on your own. I'll definitely look for hope channel.
My 03 has 80,000 on it. It's burning oil where I have to add at least every 1000 miles but I'm not bothered. I'll be keeping this for another long while but I would like to upgrade. I've been thinking a concourse or FJR would be nice. Thanks again for the video :)
Are you speaking of the oil seals? If so, I don't think they go bad so quick, at least the OEM Seals don't. It's all dependent upon usage, exposure to dirt and debris, wheelies, etc. With normal riding conditions and regular cleaning of the fork tubes, you could go quite a long time without replacing and have no leaks.
