I am putting a motor together on a 2007 Wave Runner. I bought a used head, with the cams removed and the shims gone. I have to start from scratch. The motors are very similar.
It shows .21-.30mm in the manual on 3-8 on the valve adjustment table. You are right though it also shows .21-.25mm on page 3-5 on the smaller table. I was unsure also at first which to go with so i check my 98-01 r1 manual for reference, since both engines are very simular and it has .21-.30 listed in both spaces. In this case i decided to go with the larger so i will not have to adust them as soon. They are likely to close up a little once it starts the first time anyway, and worse case is .05mm less valve lift and a little more valve noise.
Yeah, its probably about time for a check. Very impressive it made it that far. But i think in generally people dont rev out the FZ1s as much as the R1 and they are detuned some also.
It is a 2004. The process is about the same on any shim and bucket engine though especially Yamaha. Clearances might be a little different is the only main difference.
This is amazing thank you for posting as i am in the process of rebuilding my fz1 and have done most of the work but sending my head to be skimmed and will check the valves once returned obviously! Thanks again
Just a tip for you bros out there. When checking cylinder 1 you can go ahead and check cylinder 4 as both of them would be on the compression stroke. Same goes for cylinder 2 and 3
Well on a traditional flat plane inline 4 that is not exactly true. While it is true both cylinders will be at TDC they are not not both on the compression stroke. If cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke cylinder 4 will be on the exhaust stroke, i.e. valves will be opening and closing. Clearances should only be checked when the came is on the specified spot on the base circle or 360 degrees after cylinder one.
Its basically the same, i think the specs are just a little tighter on those. also the timing marks are likely to be a little different. But overall the process is the same. You should be able to find a factory service manual that has those specs in it.
currently making a RX1 snow machine engine from a few doner engines and this is probly the closest I got to finding what's going on cuz I don't live near any Yam dealership for a pro perspective..did a whole valve job and they're sitting nice and tight. I'm a very visual learner and would be awesome to see a step by step on how to set the timing to specs cuz what I'm reading from the manual, it ain't cuttin it. I do appreciate your post tho, let's me know I did something right, but I'd be a mfer if I had to pull the head back off again cuz my timing is off and need to buy another crush gasket. long live yamaha 👊
@@DeWoodysShop yeah like for when the timing is off it might damage the pistons and bend the valves when I try and start it. super new to this stuff and finding stuff out the hard way you know 😄
@@vinceschaeffer Yes, you only need to re-time the cams no need to take the head off, you just set piston one to tdc by the mark on the crank trigger then put the cams in at the correct spot. but thas above the head.
@@DeWoodysShop ahh I think I get it. I was thinking there’s a maximum and minimum. I just wanted to get to or close to the minimum to allow for the most wear before doing another valve adjustment.
