I just recently acquired an original 1981 donkey kong and it needs some serious work. Thank you for creating a comrehensive list of things to do and a starting point
You should have just cut the bottom out and replaced it. The wheel placement is going to be precarious at best making the cabinet a tipping hazard. You also should get pin Extractors so you can just repin the AMP connectors rather than soldering wires together.
I used to have a coin op business, but even with newer machines and less maintenance, there was no money in it (though a lot of money disappeared because of it). So I just fix coin-ops for my own collection and to resell. There is a ton of support online, especially the KLOV forums. There are loads of folks you can send your boards to and they'll fix everything. I just like to do it all for myself.
@@coin-opcorner Thanks so much! I have thought about getting a Galaga machine to try and make some money and hunt quarters. I like the game and I think others would enjoy it. Maybe it wouldn't pay off but it would be interesting to try.
Nice job! Way to keep it up and getting past all those hurdles (even the small self-inflicted ones). Any idea how that monitor got Frankenstein-ed together in the first place?
No idea. I wonder if the thing even works, considering that it had no video (and thus, no sync) signal when the seller took the picture of the "vertical collapse". Probably just gonna toss it into my crap parts bin.
@@coin-opcorner If there was no video signal, you’d at least expect to see a full screen raster image. The collapse doesn’t surprise me, but I am surprised the chassis was somehow able to put that collapsed image on the G07 tube. 🤔
The ones you see in this video are terrible, I recommend these instead: www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/tools-supplies/tools/ic-dip-extraction-removal-tool/
Fixture: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KFTWSH7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Power Supply: www.arcadeshop.com/i/930/midway-power-supply-kit-1.htm
Is it possible to show the lay out of the coin mech wiring because I can’t find anywhere to help me connect the wires to to black buttons in the coin mech
My only advice is to follow the basic concepts you see in this video, and hit up the KLOV forums. I can't go through every detail of PCB repair with you, but there are enough examples on KLOV to get you pointed in the right direction.
Other than looking through KLOV and following the examples in this video, I can't offer any more advice on fixing arcades. It's a very slow, detailed and incremental process.
I understand and I agree with you as soon as I get the manual for it I will be fixing the coin slot(I bought) first then fuses then connecting wires together and hopefully that’s it. Hopefully everything is in the manual. Oh and thank you about what fuses to. Thanks for trying to help i appreciate it
COIN OP CORNER< is your remove the isolation transformer, what will happen to the arcade monitor? it will still work, so i don't know the purpose of using an isolation transformer. When using switching mode power supplies some arcade games will display wavy lines on the graphics which I have been told to use EMI filters AFTER the switching power supplies, but where do you find these EMI filters that are for arcade monitors?
1. Some monitors require isolation transformers, some don't. Research your specific monitor to find out. You can blow up a chassis by not using an isolation transformer if it needs to use one. 2. Arcadeshop has everything. www.arcadeshop.com/i/1347/a.c.-power-line-filter.htm
@@coin-opcorner No, Not the EMI Power Line Filter, you use special filters AFTER the switching power supply to filter out the switching noise on the output of the switching power supply. The EMI power line filter is not going to filter out the switching power supply switching noise, its only going to filter out the AC wall outlet noises.
@@waynegram8907 Ah okay, I've never had to use one of those so I do not know where to find one. I'd recommend searching through KLOV and the various Arcade parts websites. Sorry that I could not be of more help!
Most of them were designed to run on them. I don't know EXACTLY why (I'm sure there are explanations online) but I have had buddies blow up their monitors because they didn't know they needed one.
Why not just replace the entire bottom panel of the cabinet with new wood? Why keep old particle board around? That way you could attach the wheels close to The corner.
I've done that before on my Super Pac cab - a plywood cabinet. During this process, the whole cabinet nearly collapsed a few times. I was almost sure the particleboard cabinet would definitely collapse. Since I installed the PW over the PB, I could go back now and tear off the PB from the bottom, and I may do that at some point. As is, the cabinet isn't imbalanced or anything and I'm happy with it.
